Matthew Brittain wrote:The instability is my biggest fear. I imagine you're right, Katy.
Perhaps if it sat on a rather large heat sink. An insulated water tank, or something that could serve a double function of heating a greenhouse or animal bedding area as well as keep a little box stable. I won't let it sit on my idea books for too long. In a few years I'm gonna try this one out and see what I can shake up.
In your experience, Grant, how much efficiency of heat capture does a circulation pump provide? Is it more for efficiently moving the heat or does it do much for overall heat gain? I'd imagine that the pumps more quickly introducing ground temperature water would cool and slow down the pile, so might that extend the pile's life.
Most Jean Pain-style compost mounds can output 140ºF+ water with regularity. A 300-500ft coil of 3/4 or 1" black poly is usually sufficient as a heat exchanger. The more flow (throughput) you require, the bigger the pile/longer the heat exchange pipe necessary. A tempering valve can act as a "temp regulator" on the output side by selectively throttling how much cold water is introduced to maintain a consistent output temp (say 118ºF, something that won't burn).
A circulation pump would only be necessary in a closed-ish loop system with a primary purpose of heating space. You could use a similar tempering setup, but would need two storage tanks to draw from (one hot in compost pile/one outdoors in cool non-biotic environment)
I lived in a home with
hot water radiators for years and had the natural gas boiler plumbed in tandem with a biomass (
wood pellet) boiler. Systems like this would be easy to add alternative heat sources like compost or wood in a SHTF scenario.
Here's a plumbing diagram for wood-source hot water heating for practical use in a homestead. We'll be talking about these concepts
IN DEPTH at the upcoming
Advanced Farm & Homestead Design Workshop over Memorial Day weekend May 22-26th in Iowa
City.