John Elliott wrote:It's a great idea. It's how the EthelM factory gets rid of its waste process water in Las Vegas. They are very proud of this and show it off on the tour. It's the second best part of the tour, the best part being the sample candies -- yum!
Gilbert Fritz wrote: I followed the evaporation link, and found that in the hottest month, I could expect to lose seven inches of water of any exposed surface. Presumably plants can transpire that much, as well. But in most months, it would be much lower, due to the fairly cool temperatures here.
But I suddenly saw all this in a different light. That much water will not be lost in a day, but in a month. The more I can get that water to do in the interim, the better. So, if I ran the water through a greywater marsh, then into a small shaded pond for ducks, and then after three days ran now nitrogen rich water into mulched garden beds, most of the seven inches would be transpired off the garden beds; where that much would have transpired off anyway. In six days about 1.3 inches will evaporate off the marsh and pond. The pond can be deep rather than shallow, and shaded, to minimize the effect. And the water was 'free' anyway, to start with. So, if I just ran the untreated water into a tree basin, I would have used it to grow a tree. This way I will have used it to grow marsh plants, keep ducks, raise azolla in a duck free corner of the duck pond, and irrigate and fertilize the garden. That sounds pretty good. There are lots of useful plants I could get from a marsh.
Gilbert Fritz wrote:Another question; would a wood chip/ fungi filter bed do as good a job as a reed bed, while loosing less water?
Gilbert Fritz wrote:And another; can a greywater marsh be shaded, and still function optimally?
Gilbert Fritz wrote:It sounded like the pan evaporation analysis was done in full sun. Here, the sun is really intense due to a lack of air, but the air itself is fairly cool. So if I shaded it water and or plants, there should be a big difference.
Gilbert Fritz wrote:Hello Jennifer,
Thanks for the answer.
For hypothetical situation like my own, I can't see any other way of going about it. (Greywater is illegal here in Colorado; but I want to design a greywater system in, so that when/if it becomes legal, it is already a functional part of my design.)
I would want to water annual vegetables, since they are the most water hungry part of the design. Raw greywater can't really do that.
I don't always have to water; we can get two inch downpours, and not have to water a well designed landscape for a few weeks. So I would want to store rain and grey water in a gravel filled pond, for dry periods. This climate has HUGE extremes of all sorts, and a main part of my design is to even them all out. Raw greywater can't be stored, except in the soil. And a fairly clayey soil basin being supplied with greywater just before a two inch downpour seems like a disaster waiting to happen.
Any other method of using it would be complicated and expensive (underground distribution) or have a potential ick factor for fussy neighbors. And if that potential was converted to reality just once— I would be in trouble.
Finally, I would want the whole of my small lot stuffed with edibles in every layer; thus the danger of raw greywater in a mulch basin touching edible leaves and fruits.
As far as volume, the system is being designed for a household of eight on a smallish lot.
And due to the current illegality of greywater, I don't know of anyone who has a functioning system.
Barry's not gonna like this. Barry's not gonna like this one bit. What is Barry's deal with tiny ads?
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