Earthquake safe ways to hang mirrors, pictures and other heavy objects?

Mother earth has been reminding us we live on a fault line and are overdue for a big one.

That got me thinking about paintings and antique mirrors.   On one hand, I like them and don't want them to break.   But more importantly,  broken glass is a pain in the foot to deal with during an emergency.   So I really don't want them to break.

I looked at some very expensive earthquake proof hangers, but I have my doubts. Do they work or perhaps there is a better diy option?

How do I keep heavy paintings and mirrors safe so they don't fall down during an earthquake?

We have always used toggle bolts.

A toggle bolt, also known as a butterfly anchor, is a fastener for hanging objects on hollow walls such as drywall. Toggle bolts have wings that open inside a hollow wall, bracing against it to hold the fastener securely.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toggle_bolt

I noticed that earthquake proof picture hooks seem to have just a clip to prevent the frame to come off the hook.
As a picture Framer, I can say the wire or chain would also need to be strong enough not to be broken when shaken.

The wire is a good point.

Anything over a kilo, I upgrade to heavy guage picture wire.  But the rest, I stick with what it comes with.  I wonder if I should improve those too.

Mirrors are heavy. I would choose framed mirrors or add a frame and screw the frame into studs in many places. Earthquakes aren't to be trifled with if what's happened in Japan in the last 50 years is any indication. Picture glass is usually thinner and lighter, and there could be an advantage to just letting it swing so long as it can't jump off its hook. I suspect the hook in the picture will just slide out of the wall judging by the one holding our kitchen clock. Mind you, this house was built on the cheap and the drywall isn't great.

Lived in Japan many years. They have all sorts of clever techniques. I looked for a video showing the tips but didn't easily find one. Basically keep tippy furniture fastened securely. We have out bookshelves attached at the top to the walls. Attach mirrors or pictures to studs and not drywall.

Computers and monitors are one of the main problems since they tend not to be fastened down and are up on platforms. Add some kind of brace to the feet.

Cabinets tend to dump all your dishes. Keep dishes not frequently used in low cabinets close to the floor.

Thom Bri wrote: Cabinets tend to dump all your dishes. Keep dishes not frequently used in low cabinets close to the floor.

A quick tip for cabinets is to install a ~1" high bar at the front of the cabinet. This is high enough to stop a stack of dishes from pushing the door open in medium earthquakes. I wouldn't promise any mileage in a really severe earthquake!

I was looking at japanese sources to find a picture of this and ended up finding it on a US FEMA site instead, go figure.
Wires with cup hooks or even eye hooks are good for hanging frames. Even better if you have the frame resting on a shelf with feet or a dowel or something plus the wire.
https://www.fema.gov/sites/default/files/2020-07/how2015_pictures_mirrors.pdf

Be as proactive as you can possibly be, including speculating what direction the shock waves will travel through the earth, just know that your precious things structural may still get broken.

The last “big” earthquake I was in had waves running through concrete as waves run through water.  The concrete maintained its structural integrity.  The waves also were observable as they flowed through the earth.

Some friends’ house tipped back and forth.  Drawers slid open, cupboard doors flew open and contents fell into the open drawers.  Then everything closed , then opened again and more things were ejected from the cupboards, landing on the floors and in open drawers.

In such a situation a framed picture might slam repeatedly against the wall, though not fall.

Prepare as well as possible, prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

I realize this is a thread for sharing best possible strategies and ideas.  I just wanted to tell a few of my earthquake stories.

There are also "security" picture frame hangers. I installed some 30 years ago?! in my summer office furniture job during college.
They are meant for institutional settings such as offices, hotels, hospitals, etc., where theft, safety, and just plain old solid alignment are necessary.
The hangers were used in pairs (top and bottom) and as many pairs as required for the size/weight. They were either a French-cleat style, or a tab A -> slot B style, I can't quite remember that detail...
The hangers included a small set screw/grub screw that could be turned with a slender screwdriver (or hex key? again, details...) once the piece was hung on the wall, this prevented the separation of the hanger parts. Of course these hangers are mounted with screws, both to the frame and into suitable wall anchors, which is going to outperform any nail-in type hanger in plaster/drywall.

There are manufactured aluminum French-cleat hangers, and DIY wooden ones are fairly simple to make. A nail or screw placed tightly above a frame would keep it in place. If two were used top/bottom, the frame wouldn't swing on/off the wall either.

There is also Velcro. Both the hook-and-loop type, but also a heavy-duty knobby-bristle type (both sides are the same).
The latter is used for sign mounting, and while theoretically it is demountable, it is likely to come down to the weakest of wall surface, adhesive (and proper prep.), and hung object.
The standard hook and loop can also hold quite a lot (surface area = capacity). Another use would be the small squares/circles for the lower corners of a hanging frame, to prevent swinging side-side or on/off the wall.

Thekla McDaniels wrote: I realize this is a thread for sharing best possible strategies and ideas.  I just wanted to tell a few of my earthquake stories.

Having a real-life experience with a significant quake gives good information for developing strategies.

For example, if they didn't look so ugly, having hooks and eyes on my cupboard doors that could at least be hooked overnight on cupboards in frequent use, or left hooked most of the time on a cupboard that is only opened weekly, would prevent that door swinging you have so beautifully described! My kitchen cupboards are organized for efficient use - not for safety in earthquakes - so if the Dutch oven on the second shelf above the main counter comes crashing out through the doors, it's going to put a big dent in whatever it hits.

This suggests that it's past time to find an easy way to encourage the microwave to stay put on its shelf.

Stories like yours may inspire me and others to get a very sturdy wall mounted computer screen system installed. Where my son works, the new desks they were given have the screens bolted to the desk. The degree of movement wasn't enough for him to position things the way he would have preferred, and I'm not sure how he dealt with that, but at the time I heard about it, I was thinking they were slowing down thievery, but in fact earthquake safety is important too!

Kenneth Elwell wrote:...
There is also Velcro. Both the hook-and-loop type, but also a heavy-duty knobby-bristle type (both sides are the same).
The latter is used for sign mounting, and while theoretically it is demountable, it is likely to come down to the weakest of wall surface, adhesive (and proper prep.), and hung object.
The standard hook and loop can also hold quite a lot (surface area = capacity). Another use would be the small squares/circles for the lower corners of a hanging frame, to prevent swinging side-side or on/off the wall.

I was going to suggest Velcro, so now I will second Kenneth's suggestion.  
I like the idea of combining a secure hanger system (as others have mentioned) with some Velcro dots at the corners, especially lower corners as these tend to rest against the wall with most hanger-wire systems.
If you really hate plastic, some wool felt feet could at least soften the banging, which should help with both breakage and the repetitive forces that could wiggle nails out of walls.  Should reduce the noise and panic factor too.

My great-grandfather had to deal with a shattered mirror after lightning struck their farmhouse. Broken glass can happen with bad storms, fires, and other household disasters.  
I like keeping some slip-on shoes by the bedside, and by the door(s) I most often use to exit the house.  

At workplaces where we seismic-prepped our spaces, we used Velcro for any larger or fragile display items on upper shelves.  
The shelves/cabinets got securely mounted to the wall (securing boards or corner posts to studs, not just drywall - we used cable and anchored screws at another place to secure steel shelving against earthquakes and "climberquakes," as people are monkeys and you can bet somebody is going to try to climb a shelf to get things up high, whether they are designed for it or not).  
The Velcro goes on the base of decorative items, and on the shelf where they go.  Secures them well enough for most purposes.
My California relations organize kitchen shelves so heavy and/or breakable stuff is down low.  Upper shelves can display lightweight things like baskets, flowers, artwork such as oil paintings or watercolors without glass frames.

At both places, we tended to favor plexiglass or acrylic for display posters, rather than glass.  At home, I am content with unglazed artwork, though I do have some pottery that I love and might look into better securing.
They make large, mylar mirrors for gyms, too, which don't shatter.  They can be damaged with enough force (and are not cheap to replace), but at least you don't have broken glass contaminating other equipment and hurting scantily-clad people.

The other good idea for anyone contemplating disaster-proofing their valuables is:  If you have not already done so, TAKE A PHOTO INVENTORY NOW.  Just videotape a walkthrough of your house, or take pics of each room.  Even if you can't get fire or flood insurance where you live, many places you can still carry renter's insurance to cover belongings.  And insurance claims require accurate listings of what is being replaced. list of valued items is ideal, but photos are often quicker and easier.  
From family experience, it is WAY nicer to look through photos of your stuff when it was nice and new, than try to retroactively inventory after stuff is smoke damaged or moldy from flood waters.

I live with minor earthquakes all the time, though most at 3s and 4s. But since moving to Hawaii I’ve been in 5 & 6’s too. They are shakers enough to cause poorly hung wall hangings to fall to the floor, and items to rattle off shelves. We screw mirrors and valuable wall hangings right to the wall. Since my house does not have closet and cabinet doors (it’s too humid here), everything is on shelves. We have "earthquake wires" strung along the bottom of the shelves, about 2 inches above the shelf. It keeps most things from flying off. And we use that rubbery, almost sticky shelf liner, which also helps hold things in place. Nothing gets stacked high on shelves either—-no piles of plates. Just short piles. We have a few bits of pottery art that we wire to the walls. This keeps them from tipping over. The desk computer and monitor set inside box footings which are screwed down to the desk. It holds them secure.

The propane gas line coming through the house wall is metal pipe rather than rubber. All water lines going through walls are solid piping. We have no tippy furniture.

If we get a 7 or 8, then all bets are off. Those are serious shakers known to rock houses off their foundations here. For example, the last 6 cause several houses to bounce off their foundations. And my neighbor who has a pole house saw plenty of evidence of shifting. He spent the week afterward shoring up braces under his house.

We also use tempered glass in vulnerable places where the house might twist. And we used plexiglass for the big windows in our living room and bedroom.

I have no serious earthquake experience, but I hung a large gallery-wrap picture on a sloped wall/ceiling in an upstairs bedroom with interlocking hangers similar to these I copied and pasted from a quick search online:

Erica Wisner wrote:
At workplaces where we seismic-prepped our spaces, we used Velcro for any larger or fragile display items on upper shelves.  
The shelves/cabinets got securely mounted to the wall (securing boards or corner posts to studs, not just drywall - we used cable and anchored screws at another place to secure steel shelving against earthquakes and "climberquakes," as people are monkeys and you can bet somebody is going to try to climb a shelf to get things up high, whether they are designed for it or not).  
The Velcro goes on the base of decorative items, and on the shelf where they go.  Secures them well enough for most purposes.
My California relations organize kitchen shelves so heavy and/or breakable stuff is down low.  Upper shelves can display lightweight things like baskets, flowers, artwork such as oil paintings or watercolors without glass frames.

There is also a product known as Museum Putty, it comes in clear and opaque versions. A less aggressive/intrusive (visual and residue) option than Velcro. More conducive to rearranging your stuff as it is removable and reusable, because while some things are in one spot for literally decades, there are others that get used now and then, or change seasonally.

One brand of it being is marketed as "QuakeHOLD!", here's their description:
About This Product
Removable, reusable and non-toxic, the QuakeHOLD! Putty secures antiques, collectibles and more from falling and breaking. Pull off amount needed, roll it in your fingers until soft, and apply to the base of the object. Removing the putty is easy, just lift and twist the object as for the putty will not leave any marks or residue on surfaces.
Highlights
Secures up to 30 items, including collectibles and household breakables
Non-drying, non-toxic and non-damaging
Works on almost all surfaces and leaves no marks
Removable and reusable, use it as many times as you'd like
Cream-colored putty, mold it into any shape you want

And another idea:  a friend in earthquake country finds-collects colorful antique bottles.  He built a shelf to display the small ones on, kind of like crown molding… up high in the bathroom.

They got dusty, and it was a pain to take them all down and clean them then replace them.

He reinstalled the high narrow shelf so he could take it down and then replace it (using wing nuts to secure the shelf to L brackets maybe)

Anyway, he glued the bottles to the narrow display shelf.

The shelf comes right down so he can hose the bottles off-all at once, and easily replace them.

all these beautiful bottles on their precarious high perch survive the occasional earthquake, large or small.

Kenneth Elwell wrote:There is also a product known as Museum Putty, it comes in clear and opaque versions. A less aggressive/intrusive (visual and residue) option than Velcro. More conducive to rearranging your stuff as it is removable and reusable, because while some things are in one spot for literally decades, there are others that get used now and then, or change seasonally.

One brand of it being is marketed as "QuakeHOLD!", here's their description:
About This Product
Removable, reusable and non-toxic, the QuakeHOLD! Putty secures antiques, collectibles and more from falling and breaking. Pull off amount needed, roll it in your fingers until soft, and apply to the base of the object. Removing the putty is easy, just lift and twist the object as for the putty will not leave any marks or residue on surfaces.
Highlights
Secures up to 30 items, including collectibles and household breakables
Non-drying, non-toxic and non-damaging
Works on almost all surfaces and leaves no marks
Removable and reusable, use it as many times as you'd like
Cream-colored putty, mold it into any shape you want

I think I might need some of this for items on our open shelves which our new cats think should be their toys...  

r ranson wrote:Mother earth has been reminding us we live on a fault line and are overdue for a big one.
That got me thinking about paintings and antique mirrors.   On one hand, I like them and don't want them to break.   But more importantly,  broken glass is a pain in the foot to deal with during an emergency.   So I really don't want them to break.

I looked at some very expensive earthquake proof hangers, but I have my doubts. Do they work or perhaps there is a better diy option?
How do I keep heavy paintings and mirrors safe so they don't fall down during an earthquake?

ANSWERS??
Wellll…
Depends on size/weight of glass, & how big an earthquake might hit (target 500-year or 1000 year events), & how the house is built, & what condition the structure. Also, what is the geology of the place the house sits?
Most of N.CA is “unstable fill”—so shakes like jello-ish, & cracks & settles.
Western WA, & much more of it, is glacial till? River rock gravel?—LOTS of river rock/pit-run-gravel with little dirt left by washout post ice age melt & washout.  It shifts & resettles the “gravel”.
Different ground types under a buildings, act differently when earthquakes hit.
That vibrates various kinds of buildings differently.

Solutions we’ve tried— used these a few places, over 50 years, thru the Nisqually quake in WA, & the Loma Prieta quake in CA:  
…The pin hooks shown in one response, come in bigger versions, rated to hold big mirrors, even…but I sure wouldn’t!  But those are good for medium & small pics on walls.
   Be wary of those big ones might “rip on the dotted line”, so-to-speak, from multiple nails in only drywall, in a line, under live seismic stress.
…Cleats (wall type) are very stable.  
    Half cleat mounts on mirror, & on wall; they slot together; available in various lengths.
    It would take a very bad quake to cause a heavy glass pic, mirror, or headboard to jump out of that cleat..(our 50# headboard has never jumped off the wood wall cleat it’s on).
…Shallow shelf to support base of heavy glass, & another fastener at top to hold it to the wall, weight-rated.
   (one approx. 3’x4’ antique mirror & a 4.5’ round mirror, stayed on their walls—in tract house, in HUD housing walls, & in a 125 year old house; the weight sits on a rail screwed to studs, but also the top hangar wires hook to a weight-rated hook.  
One of those needed a thin piece of plywood to reinforce across studs, because 1/2” drywall cannot hold heavy weight very well.)
…frame around all sides, trapping the glass by at least a 1/2” margin all around, then, screw the frame into wall studs.
   (Only fails if improperly done, or, seismic event breaks the wall it’s attached to)

If you can, I highly recommend low-glare acrylic or Lexan plastic replace the glass in framed pictures. Polycarbonate can cause ripples interrupting the view.  
Or, can apply some kinds of clear-plastic window-cling coatings to glass, to prevent shards going everywhere.  
Window clings greatly reduce glass-scatter from a break.  
Often, modest size pictures that don’t fall too far or hard, & have window cling covering, don’t break.  Costs less than replacing glass.

Museum putty has helped save some stuff.  But it’s more for smaller, maybe small/moderate size events, & those are best also restrained by railings or clear containers.
& it’s maybe cost-prohibitive to use for canning jars in pantries. (Install some kind of rail or bungee cord, etc. across between the shelves, to block shelf contents from falling)
Just spitballing.  

—We hung a heavy, 5’x5’x10” oak shelf unit to the wall, sitting its back bottom edge on a rail screwed to studs, then L-brackets to studs screwed to the top edge of it.
—We hung 18’x8’ Ivar wall shelves, on the wall (LOTS’o’books!):  uprights plated to a 2x4 rail at top of wall, a 2x4 rail at bases, & plated to a 3rd 2x4 screwed into ceiling rafters, to hang the front uprights from.
That’s been solid for several years; but not gone thru a seismic event yet.  It still needs doors made to block stuff being tossed out in a seismic event.
Also, each back-upright is screwed to wall studs or used mollies in drywall, in at least 4 places.  
Shelves need either a cable, or rail, or a door, to block stuff from getting thrown in a quake.
—An old legal bookcase w/glass doors, built in the late 1800s, has old hardware at the top, to fasten it to the wall, & channel hardware to vertically lock each section together.
—Kitchen cupboards can use the baby-proofing hooks to hold doors or drawers.
—Boat supply places usually offer various solutions to hold stuff in the galley & elsewhere.
—One old captains’ tall chest of drawers, was built with a hinged-on wood clamp vertically up one side.  
While ship is underway, the clamp is closed over the left side of the drawers, locking them closed. The clamp has a heavy wire finger-loop-pin to lock the clamp in place at the top, yet be easily moved.

Earthquake effects are different than anticipated.