'Theoretically this level of creeping Orwellian dynamics should ramp up our awareness, but what happens instead is that each alert becomes less and less effective because we're incredibly stupid.' - Jerry Holkins
D Nikolls wrote:Chat GPT is not a good choice for electrical information. It cannot be relied upon for technical details that might cause a fire or injury.
You need to size your fuse to protect your wiring, and to size your wiring to suit the maximum current.
I personally do not install cheap chinese fuses, fuseholders, breakers, relays, etc.. I have had them melt/burn up far below their rated capacity, after working fine for months on end. I am not sure if I'd prefer a cheapo fuse/breaker to none at all.. but I wouldn't run either option in anything but a crisis.
With lithium of any sort you should consider the maximum interrupting current rating of protection devices; there are plenty of fuses and breakers that are rated high enough in terms of max amps, but they cannot all be relied upon not to short when faced with the massive potential current of a lithium battery.
A good source for info specific to this topic is Will Prowse's DIY solar forum; https://diysolarforum.com.
D Nikolls wrote:Chat GPT is not a good choice for electrical information. It cannot be relied upon for technical details that might cause a fire or injury.
You need to size your fuse to protect your wiring, and to size your wiring to suit the maximum current.
I personally do not install cheap chinese fuses, fuseholders, breakers, relays, etc.. I have had them melt/burn up far below their rated capacity, after working fine for months on end. I am not sure if I'd prefer a cheapo fuse/breaker to none at all.. but I wouldn't run either option in anything but a crisis.
With lithium of any sort you should consider the maximum interrupting current rating of protection devices; there are plenty of fuses and breakers that are rated high enough in terms of max amps, but they cannot all be relied upon not to short when faced with the massive potential current of a lithium battery.
A good source for info specific to this topic is Will Prowse's DIY solar forum; https://diysolarforum.com.
Michael Qulek wrote:Looking at your wire pic, you do NOT measure the thickness of the wire including the insulation. You need to measure the thickness of the copper wire itself. Your pic is a bit blurry, but it looks like the thickness with the insulation is ~7mm. Assuming that the plastic is ~1mm thick, that means you are likely to have a copper wire that's maybe 5mm in diameter. Referring back to the chart on wire gauge above, that looks like it's likely to be either 6 gauge, or 4 gauge (American scale). I'd say thats totally inadequate for supplying your inverter with power. Maybe it's OK to use it just to turn the inverter on, and check for power, but no way would I ever try to apply a full load to that inverter, with that wire. Since the wire appears to be originally attached to the battery, instead of the inverter itself, I'm expecting that the battery selected was originally designed for a smaller application. That goes along the lines of what I mentioned before, that this battery is too small for your application.
Looking at the MPPT section of your AiO, it appears that the operating voltage is between 90VDC and 500VDC. That means my example above with three panels in series might not be appropriate for your electronics. Having only three 30V panels in series might not guarranty that you supply >90VDC at all times. It would be better to use at least four 30V panels to get at least 120VDC.
I'm focusing on the 30V panels mostly because that is the common variety that appears most abundant right now, with many going for only 30-40$ right now. Maybe higher in Ukraine? It appears that your MPPT's optimal voltage is around 240VDC, so you could go with up to 8 of those panels in series to make that voltage. I prefer ground mounts, rather than putting panels on the roof, and the most I've built now is an array frame that can hold 6 residential panels. That would be ~180V (1500W), which would work well for you. If you build rotating mounts like mine, you can rotate it East in morning, and West in the afternoon, resulting in more total power.
I'd consider building the array frame like I've pic below, though with such a small battery, the extra watts won't get you much. You really need a bigger battery to take advantage of extra solar.
Michael Qulek wrote:With a cross-section of 25mm2, it looks like it lays somewhere between 3 gauge, and 4 gauge, following American guidelines. In the real-world, that looks like it is likely to handle 80A without getting too hot. That works out to be about 4000W with a battery feeding the inverter at around 50V. Most likely you are likely to get by as long as you never attempt to run the inverter flat out, at maximum wattage. But, it's your call as how hot you are willing to push your wiring.
I can understand though that you are in a country at war right now, and you really have to make do with what you can find at the moment. What I can suggest you do now is just attempt to run the unit supporting loads like the refrigerator, and lights, but not turn on any big-ticket items like an electric heater, or a microwave. You can put a hand on the insulated part of the wire while running your loads to see just how hot it's actually getting.
You can control that a bit better by fusing it with a lower rating fuse, like 80A, even if you install it in front of a 150A breaker. Some time in the future, when it becomes practical to upgrade your wiring, the 80A fuse can be dispensed with.
Have you started working on your solar input yet? You haven't mentioned one word about panels yet?
Anderson gave himself the promotion. So I gave myself this tiny ad:
Back the BEL - Invest in the Permaculture Bootcamp
https://permies.com/w/bel-fundraiser
|