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Passive Annual Heat Storage

 
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Hello to all Permies!!

I have/possess and just recently reread the John Hait book [2013 edition]  Passive Annual Heat Storage. I have been doing further research, looking and it seems to have just died. I came across a Paul Wheaton article which I had also seen a few year ago, link below.

https://www.makeitmissoula.com/2014/05/passive-annual-heat-storage/

Does anyone know what has happened to this idea, to John Hait, ... is there anyone still pursuing this? Are the houses that have been built still being used, still functioning after all these years, according to the initial plan? To me these seem ideal to RMHs.

Any and all info would be much appreciated.

Terry[
 
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This thread might be of interest

https://permies.com/t/169882/permaculture-projects/Winter-ATI-test-Allerton-Abbey

There was another test the previous season which is documented here:

https://permies.com/t/180/120233/permaculture-projects/Jen-Boot-Camp-Allerton-Abbey#1028790

So far, I am not convinced that their current design is able to store enough heat during the summer, so the indoor temperature is trying to return to a baseline that is too cool to be comfortable.

I think the idea is sound. Thermal mass does work. I remember a cathedral in Sweden that was built with walls so massive that in the summer a torrent of cool air came pouring out of it even though they left the doors open all day. In the winter it was supposedly warm inside, but I suspect that "warm" is relative. When you step in out of a snow storm, 55F feels pretty nice. Soil has a sine-curved temperature graph - with the peaks and valleys converging with depth until you hit the stable ground temperature at 30ish feet down. If you want to change the amplitude of that graph, you are going to have to force more energy into the system, and then likely use insulation to keep it there. I think using as much winter solar gain as possible is likely key.

To me it is a fascinating idea. I am more interested in trying to cool an underground space for food storage, but the principle is the same. Air is not capable of carrying very much energy relative to soil, so I suspect that to significantly change the temperature of even a moderately sized underground space would take a LOT of airflow.

I am guessing that the reason you dont see more of this being done is simply cost and complexity of building anything underground. If you build a tight structure on the surface with r-60 insulation all around and heat exchanging air ventilation, you could probably keep it comfortable inside with waste heat (cooking, electric devices and body heat) in a modestly mild climate.


 
Terry Byrne
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Carl Nystrom wrote:This thread might be of interest

https://permies.com/t/169882/permaculture-projects/Winter-ATI-test-Allerton-Abbey

There was another test the previous season which is documented here:

https://permies.com/t/180/120233/permaculture-projects/Jen-Boot-Camp-Allerton-Abbey#1028790

Thanks for your response, Carl. Those are wood framed, right?


So far, I am not convinced that their current design is able to store enough heat during the summer, so the indoor temperature is trying to return to a baseline that is too cool to be comfortable.

The thing that puzzles me is how it all just died. Did John Hait get sued or something? Was ther ever any other testing done besides what he said he did on the Missoula GeoDome?

To Paul Wheaton: Did you ever do any followup to your above mentioned article? Do people still use and live in the Missoula GeoDome?


I think the idea is sound. Thermal mass does work. I remember a cathedral in Sweden that was built with walls so massive that in the summer a torrent of cool air came pouring out of it even though they left the doors open all day. In the winter it was supposedly warm inside, but I suspect that "warm" is relative. When you step in out of a snow storm, 55F feels pretty nice. Soil has a sine-curved temperature graph - with the peaks and valleys converging with depth until you hit the stable ground temperature at 30ish feet down. If you want to change the amplitude of that graph, you are going to have to force more energy into the system, and then likely use insulation to keep it there. I think using as much winter solar gain as possible is likely key.

To me it is a fascinating idea. I am more interested in trying to cool an underground space for food storage, but the principle is the same. Air is not capable of carrying very much energy relative to soil, so I suspect that to significantly change the temperature of even a moderately sized underground space would take a LOT of airflow.

My take on what the Hait book said was that because the Earth heat sink was insulated and "kept dry" with the many layers of overlapped poly that the house with its uninsulated walls became the heat exchanger which went two different directions depending on the outside season.

I am guessing that the reason you dont see more of this being done is simply cost and complexity of building anything underground. If you build a tight structure on the surface with r-60 insulation all around and heat exchanging air ventilation, you could probably keep it comfortable inside with waste heat (cooking, electric devices and body heat) in a modestly mild climate.

You could well be right, Carl. And actually trying to control such a huge expanse of Earth to keep it dry, the crucial thing, may well be something beyond our capability. But again, I am just wondering about the silence regarding the process and the houses that were built. I called one engineer who still had something on the Net, asked for him and a lady asked who was calling. I explained and she said he had died ten years ago. I stumbled with copious apologies and left the conversation still as ignorant about where this sits as a few weeks ago when I started wondering. If anyone has any further info on this, did any universities do anything, is John Hait still alive, ... I'd like to know.

 
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I suspect that PAHS depends for viability on an area where soil has no groundwater nearby and is well-draining, thus not very conductive; and on being where the average annual temperature is not too low. The earth will equilibrate to the average local air temperature, so PAHS in Alaska is probably doomed unless the entire thermal mass is insulated on all sides, top and bottom.

I did a design for a not-exactly-PAHS industrial/warehouse structure in college about 1979, using water storage tanks buried under/around the building and solar panels to warm the water. I would love to use the PAHS concept for my house, but as there is a constant trickle of water from my foundation drain, I could never get above 55 degrees. I will have to be satisfied with a storage tank in the basement for a drainback system.
 
Terry Byrne
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Glenn Herbert wrote:I suspect that PAHS depends for viability on an area where soil has no groundwater nearby and is well-draining, thus not very conductive; and on being where the average annual temperature is not too low. The earth will equilibrate to the average local air temperature, so PAHS in Alaska is probably doomed unless the entire thermal mass is insulated on all sides, top and bottom.

I am thinking PAHS had some other major issues, Glenn, cause it is like a disappeared see eye eh non favorite persona, I can't seem to find anything recent on it, no discussion at all. I must admit that I haven't exhausted all potential sources. I am gonna ask the DWG people at Univ of Minnesota. I vaguely remember something from somewhere that the UofM did something as regards PAHS.  

I did a design for a not-exactly-PAHS industrial/warehouse structure in college about 1979, using water storage tanks buried under/around the building and solar panels to warm the water. I would love to use the PAHS concept for my house, but as there is a constant trickle of water from my foundation drain, I could never get above 55 degrees. I will have to be satisfied with a storage tank in the basement for a drainback system.



This obviously is a MAJOR PROBLEM, the ground cannot be wet and I certainly can't say I know how much wet/damp is tolerable. John Hait seems to suggest that the GeoDome went thru at least one heating season cycle with no external source of heat so something must have worked "right".

Is there a way to ask Paul Wheaton if he ever did any followup on the Missoula GeoDome?  
 
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I remember looking carefully at this ages ago. I love the idea. I'm just not sure it is quite ready for human habitable structure, at least as people want to live in them. In the context of small test properties, maybe.

I think fundamentally builders/architects don't understand them. And they can solve the same problems (comfortable living spaces, year round) with other means that are better understood, cheaper to install and easier to get permits for. PAHS would be a nightmare to get past the planners here in the UK. You have to be really determined to attempt it.
 
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Terry Byrne wrote:Hello to all Permies!!

I have/possess and just recently reread the John Hait book [2013 edition]  Passive Annual Heat Storage. I have been doing further research, looking and it seems to have just died. I came across a Paul Wheaton article which I had also seen a few year ago, link below.

https://www.makeitmissoula.com/2014/05/passive-annual-heat-storage/

Does anyone know what has happened to this idea, to John Hait, ... is there anyone still pursuing this? Are the houses that have been built still being used, still functioning after all these years, according to the initial plan? To me these seem ideal to RMHs.

Any and all info would be much appreciated.

Terry[


Hi, very late to the party but have been milling around an idea for a "self-heating" home for the last few years. Am just restarting the design process after reading John Hait's inspirational PAHS. I originally wanted to build a passive solar greenhouse into the mid-section of our hill and later a home above it which would be heated by the greenhouse and then naturally ventilated to cool but I think we are ideally placed to build something based on John Hait's design principles. But then I also have the same questions! Where did the research go? Are there any working examples still in operation? Will all my time & effort result in something which has to be abandoned and rebuilt with current petrochemical reliant materials/techniques? It seems like it could go either way for me as we are in Ireland so we don't have a massive temperature difference between the seasons but we do have water water everywhere so will be a massive challenge to exclude completely. Anyone willing to offer insight into real life examples would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Hi Lisa,

Welcome to Permies.
 
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If the water is moving, then it will tend carry any warmth or coolth it has with it, in the direction it’s moving (aka convection).  That could be advantageous or not depending.

If the water *isn’t* moving at all, then the speed that the heat moves through it is rather slow, similar to that of plastic. The reason for this is that it isn’t only conductivity that matters here. Heat capacity matters because the material has to be heated up while heat is moving through it. So, the parameter that measures how fast heat moves is called “thermal diffusivity”.  It’s the ratio of the conductivity and the heat capacity per unit volume. Water has high conductivity but also high heat capacity per volume. Plastic for example has low conductivity and low heat capacity per volume. So the ratio for these two materials is about the same.  

It’s also useful to know that the rate of diffusion follows an inverse square law with time. This means that if it takes 1 hour for heat to flow 1 inch, how long does it take for heat to flow 2 inches?  It’s actually 4 hours. How long for 3 inches? 9 hours.  So the overall speed the heat is moving slows down significantly with distance. This is why soil temperature 1 inch down can change hourly, but (in cold climates) the seasonal frost line is only say 36-48 inches deep, because it takes months for heat to move that far.  We can even calculate approximately. 36^2 / (24 hours/day) = 54 days.  48^2 / (24 hours/day) = 96 days, or about 3 months.

This is where adding thermal mass to insulation is different than insulation alone. When we talk of R-value on insulation it’s per inch. 2x the thickness is 2x the insulation. But with thermal mass, it’s per inch-squared. 10x the thickness is in a sense 100x the “insulation” value, at least when considering the speed of heat flow, or the units that R-value is measured by, BTU/(hr*ft2 area*inch thickness*deg.F temp diff)
 
Terry Byrne
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Hi Lisa.

I have abandoned the Hait idea as it is such a massive undertaking. There is a similar idea that has been done, successfully, in Okotoks, Alberta, Canada called Drake Landing Solar Community. I'll let you read about it at the link below.

Having viewed your weather info, [see Ireland weather chart below] you easily could supply virtually all heat needed with passive solar using a R2000 type Super Energy Efficient Build.

================================
Welcome to Drake Landing Solar Community.  

The Drake Landing Solar Community (DLSC) is a master planned neighbourhood in the Town of Okotoks, Alberta, Canada that has successfully integrated Canadian energy efficient technologies with a renewable, unlimited energy source - the sun.

The first of its kind in North America, DLSC is heated by a district system designed to store abundant solar energy underground during the summer months and distribute the energy to each home for space heating needs during winter months.

http://www.dlsc.ca/
=================================

But as you and I are not going to attract a huge community around our own projects, we need a smaller scale idea and that too has come out of this larger project.

You mention lots of water where you are. Do you get sustained freezing temps in winter, does the water, ponds, lakes and the like freeze solid? What are your January temps, night time lows, day time highs?

An engineering department at an Ontario university has scaled this down for single family dwellings. The Drake Landing solar collection and storage is huge and this idea does not scale down well, ie. efficiently for single family homes.

I'll locate the above and post later.

So instead of using the Earth for a heat storage medium, a buried, super insulated water tank, concrete I think, stores the heat collected thru the hot months for delivery in the cold months. Now remember, Canada is butt cold, whereas your heating demands would be much lower. The houses are insulated to a very high standard and uncontrolled air infiltration is effectively zero, with air to air heat exchangers used to ensure a warmed/recycled air exchange.

My initial thinking is that your climate is VERY conducive to creating a super energy efficient dwelling that would have a very low energy load [compared to Canada, northern usa, ... ] and so would require minimal heating.
===========================
What is the temperature of Ireland by month?
Temperature:
January 5°C/ 41 °F 5°C/ 41 °F
April 8°C/ 46 °F 11°C/52 °F
July 15°C/ 59°F 14°C/57 °F
October 10°C/ 50°F 7°C/44.6 °F
================================

Creating large energy resources is expensive, it also has equipment requiring maintenance, replacement costs while creating a super energy efficient house can last a lifetime.

If your area of Ireland is anything like the above chart I copied off the internet, you can supply a large fraction of needed heat in an R2000 super insulated, recycled air with an air to air heat exchanger style home.

Check out the link below. Then we can talk more when you supply info as to your heating requirements as requested above.

Details of the R-2000 Standard

https://natural-resources.canada.ca/energy-efficiency/homes/professional-opportunities/become-energy-efficient-builder/details-the-r-2000-standard/20588
 
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Passive Annual Heat Storage and other Passive House/Net Zero House have a couple elements in common:
A) Reduce Energy Loss
B) Increase Solar Gain
C) Distribute Energy Effiectively
D) Reuse/Recycle Energy

Reduce Energy Loss
1) Insulation maybe R-50
2) Air-tight
3) Triple Pane Windows or better
4) ERV Ventilation System, that will recover warmth, while bringing in healthy fresh air

Increase Solar Gain
1) South Facing Windows, that are triple-pane or better
2) Maybe some solar collector/solar panels

Distribute Energy Effiectively
1) Radiant infloor Heating

Reuse/Recycle Energy
1) ERV

I am also a big fan of Active Annual Heat Storage.
Collect & Pump Energy into Hot Water Tank/etc
Build a Hot Water Tank that can store all of the energy that is needed for the winter-heating season
Extract & Pump Heat Water from Tank to living Space.

Tank Placement: You can build the Hot water tank under the house aka the basement or it can be built along the side(s).
Tank Insulation:
Tank Size:
Tank Walls:



 
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I can remember experiments with storing heat in rocks piled into large insulated tanks using air as the transport  medium.
heat store was built up during day and removed at night.
In summer it was reversed.
 
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In areas where ground water levels or other subsurface conditions (e.g. permafrost) preclude Hait's PAHS or Don Stephens AGS, it might be worthwhile to watch a few of Thorsten Chlupp's old lectures on the REINA, LLC YouTube channel.  Thorsten has moved on, now working for an NGO in Bhutan on solar housing, but the old lectures/presentations still available remain interesting.  Unfortunately, the audience wasn't mic'd during the Q&A sessions, and the camera operator tended to not focus on the PowerPoint slides as much as I would have liked.  Oh, well...  The Cold Climate Housing Research Center, a collaboration between University of Alaska, Fairbanks and the NREL, has continued to experiment with variations on the theme.

In brief, Thorsten designed and built superinsulated (blown-in cellulose - think Larsen truss) above grade structures (at least two residences and a library), with a large water tank as the thermal store.  "Large" in this case was several thousand gallons (5K for his personal residence).  Windows were south-facing, deeply set to minimize convective losses, and had exterior insulated shutters on rolling barn door style hardware.  Trickle down solar collectors were oriented to maximize winter gain in his latitude (Fairbanks, AK).  Passive collection via a stained concrete floor was also a feature.  Controls were rather sophisticated (PLCs, variable speed pumps, valves, etc.) to maximize the thermal efficiency of the collectors.  For the library (minimal DHW requirement) the thermal store could be relatively shallow, but for residential use, the thermal store was ideally oriented vertically to maximize stratification.  The vertically oriented thermal store used a simple yet ingenious return system of Thorsten's own devising which automatically dumped water coming from the collectors into the tank at the correct level to minimize vertical mixing, so preserving the stratification.

Thorsten still burned about 1 cord of wood per heating season.  But, he was in interior Alaska, the best wood he was likely to have had access to was spruce (not oak, maple or locust!), and his thermal mass heater was of a very conventional design with what had to have been quite a lot of room for improvements in efficiency.

The Drake Landing experiment is interesting, with a lot of historical data, but the heating system is now failing due to corrosion (and perhaps other, as yet undiscovered) issues.  They've gotten about 20 years out of the system.  The replacement cost is estimated to be around $5 million, which is deemed to be cost-prohibitive.  It's not clear what will be the future of the district solar heating scheme for the development.

Edit:  Belatedly, it came to mind that the Irish correspondent might also want to take a look at the Greenhouse in the Snow design.  Kristen Dirksen profiled the originator on her YouTube channel a few years ago ("citrus in Nebraska" or some such).  An almost-neighbor to me has erected one of these.  I haven't yet button-holed him to get a tour.  This will be the second year for his installation, but the first winter following a full summer, so performance this winter should be more in line with design expectations.  These systems (and others of their ilk not falling under that exact marketing name) use an array of perforated drain tile beneath the greenhouse floor, through which circulates warm humid air from the top of the greenhouse through the cooler earth during the heat of the summer.  In the cooler months, the stored thermal energy is recovered and returned to prevent or minimize frost damage to the plants within.  Latent heat (phase change of the humidity) also transfers a lot of thermal energy beyond the sensible heat (air temperature difference).  While the thermal efficiency of the name branded system can't possibly approach the Hait/Stephens level, in a milder climate like Ireland the simpler and less expensive system might suffice.  More broadly, I think this design holds promise for added sun spaces or attached greenhouses on primary residences.  Generally, moisture control has been an issue for attached greenhouses, but this idea could assist in dealing inexpensively with the excess humidity.  The drain tile could extend beneath the residence, or through an insulated apron (a la Hait) adjacent to the greenhouse, in addition to just being beneath the greenhouse proper.  In greenhouse applications, the air circulation is typically handled with a small DC fan (computer fan, boat bilge ventilator, etc) in a plenum or manifold, and a PV panel, with or without a battery and charge manager, provides the requisite power.
 
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