“Every human activity is an opportunity to bear fruit and is a continual invitation to exercise the human freedom to create abundance...” ― Andreas Widmer
Rachel Lindsay wrote:My mother and I are doing this type of thing in her small garden. Making raised beds by a combination of lasagna stacking and mixing in high-quality bags of soil I found at a discount store.
Layering coffee grounds, straw, her own aged compost, leaves, etc.; and horse manure was put in I think October-ish. We are planning to plant in the Spring, everything from berry bushes to annual fruits, veggies and herbs. Logs from fallen trees are the borders of the beds.
We also got a hugel mound started in a shady-ish place in the late summer, and it's incredible to me how fast that has already been breaking down even though not completely covered with soil yet. You might investigate Hugelkultur too!
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What about the use of a clear plastic tarp for laying over the beds to hold in some heat to aid in breaking things down? I also have several of the bouncy mats from old trampolines i repurposed that could serve a similar function of holding in some heat due to them being black but also being more breathable as opposed to just plastic as i dont have any crazy weeds im trying to smother via solorization etc just thinking if these things might help create an environment for the layers to break down faster.
sow…reap…compost…repeat
Nancy Reading wrote:It sounds like you're building a great garden there, Jasper. There should be plenty of good nutrition in those beds for plants to grow. I would say it will be particularly good for brassica and potatoes or tomatoes/squash etc. being so rich.
In terms of deeper rooting plants that will penetrate into the soil beneath, the fodder/tillage radish (or Daikon radish for more palatable roots) is supposed to have deep roots. I'm trying them this year on my new 'natural farming' area. That's more of a cool season crop though - plant it late summer and it is supposed to die overwinter leaving deep holes full or organic matter (would it die in zone 8b though?). The other plant that may be worth trying is alfalfa - this is nitrogen fixing and has deep roots. It can be a chop and drop perennial or grown as an annual for fodder/green manure. Maybe others will have more suggestions.
Unless the rocks in your soil are really big I wouldn't bother dig them out. The plants actually seem to like the microclimates they provide. I think if you have topped the beds with compost then you can seed directly into that.
I've never tried a proper lasagne bed, but I did grow courgettes on top of my old compost heap (cold process) without adding extra soil, just a little finished compost in the transplanting hole and they were quite happy.
Amy Gardener wrote:
What about the use of a clear plastic tarp for laying over the beds to hold in some heat to aid in breaking things down? I also have several of the bouncy mats from old trampolines i repurposed that could serve a similar function of holding in some heat due to them being black but also being more breathable as opposed to just plastic as i dont have any crazy weeds im trying to smother via solorization etc just thinking if these things might help create an environment for the layers to break down faster.
Sheet composting, lasagna garden, enchilada garden: great approach to building soil! I truly regret ever using plastic or things like landscape cloth that don't decompose and block air flow. When repurposing plastic, I elevate it above the soil and remove it before the rains come. The best gardens here follow the simple brown-green (or green-brown) approach to layering. Cardboard, wood chips, paper, dead trimmings (high carbon stuff) are "browns." Manure, kitchen scraps, grass clippings (high nitrogen stuff) are greens. Simple as that, layer after layer, year after year. When it's time to plant, I like to start with nitrogen fixing legumes (like Nancy's alfalfa suggestion) since "greens" are rare here. When time to plant, use a stick or some kind of improvised dibber to poke through the moist cardboard. Planting nitrogen fixers like fava beans 8 weeks before the last spring frost is a beautiful way to start the garden: greens, little bean pods, fresh beans, dried beans, mulch. A fabulous plant!
sow…reap…compost…repeat
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