Impossible coop design?

So... we’re just over 1 year into chicken keeping. I built a mobile coop with 8-10 chickens in mind last summer and am considering different options now that we may be wanting to increase our numbers a bit. The current coop is about 4’x8’, has a roof that opens clam shell style for cleaning and whatnot, has a front and back door for the chickens, and has 2 axles (1 has caster wheels for ease of turning). It also sits about a foot off the ground and the chickens hang out underneath all the time.

Overall, the design has worked pretty well. We’ve had 7 orpingtons in there and there was room for at least a couple more on the roost. Floor space isn’t too much of a concern because even during winter, they prefer to be outside under the coop (we blocked it up about 18” higher and added straw bales on 3 sides for winter) instead of inside it. They basically lay and roost in the coop and are outside the rest of the time. Also, i can move the coop around on flat ground relatively easily by myself which is great.

My issues with the design is that there’s not much head space above them while roosted, which also limits the amount of ventilation I can give them which is very important in winter considering we get well below zero Fahrenheit. Also, I dont think we could really keep more than 10 chickens in there during the winter without excessive moisture build up inside.

I think it would be nice to give them more roosting space, more head space and still be able to move them around during the summer. Thing is, I’m not sure if I can alter the current coop enough to give them enough space, and I dont think I would be able to make a coop a whole lot bigger without needing either 2 people or a 4 wheeler to move it. This coop is pretty lightly built and its still surprisingly heavy. All that’s in it is 3 full sheets of plywood, 8 2x4s, some 4x4s as a frame underneath and 3 sheets of metal roofing on top.

Ive looked at Justin Rhodes chickshaw and that was partially my inspiration, but as far as I know, that wouldn’t suffice for a winter coop and also dont think his chickens roost in there. They might just be “meat birds”. So, I’m trying to decide between these options:

1. Try to retrofit the current coop and either get help moving it or hope that I can do it alone.
2. Keep the current coop for mobile summer use and build a stationary winter coop.
3. Build a new coop on a trailer and use a four wheeler or lawn mower to pull it around. Keep the current one as a sick chick coop, newcomer coop or brooder.

Does anyone have suggestions or experience building a mobile coop that can overwinter a dozen chickens and be moved easily?

I hear your concerns are a need for greater ventilation and height/headroom for the girls.

Without adding significant weight, and providing additional height/light/headroom could you not remove the existing roof structure and add a 6-12 inch band of hardware cloth (1cm welded avian wire) around the top that could be closed in with clear coroplast/greenhouse panels or Glas if too cold in winter. Reinstall existing roof system that you are currently happy with, just plop it back on.

I doubt the extra lumber would add much weight, and unlikely to push you past the point where it becomes unwieldy - I would guess only 10lbs.

That was my thought, but I was thinking glass windows might be too heavy and breakable. I'm not familiar with the weights of greenhouse panels. My thought was clear plastic like shower curtains. They could be bungeed down to keep them from blowing in the winter winds.

I'm going to take a second approach:  Build a second one like the one you've got and operate the girls as two smaller flocks that can socialize with each other during the day if they wish.

Reasons: 1) I agree - 7 chickens in 4x8 ft is plenty when you consider airflow/heat/etc.
2) Having an "older flock" and a "younger flock" allows you flexibility when you need to add new chicks to refresh things.
3) Some things don't scale down or up - I've met way too many "portable" coops that don't move regularly because as you identified, they're too heavy or awkward to move, or they only move easily on flat, level ground which can be hard to come by.
4) The only way I know of to go lighter, usually involves plastic and I'm trying not to end up with more of that as recycling it is really unreliable. One thing you could try if money isn't an issue, is look into aluminium roofing options. If you do decide to raise the roof a little, please listen to Lorinne and use "1cm welded avian wire" and *not* "chicken wire" as we've had too many things chew through chicken wire. If the roof blocks rain from getting in, with that density of birds, I doubt you'd need anything covering it - chickens can cope with cold so long as they're dry. Consider the weather when you choose their winter parking spot and plan now for wind abatement (start plants??)
5) With two coops operating independently, it gives you more options as to where you put them. One year I had a small group of ducks acting as my "front lawn fertilization committee" and it really helped to improve the soil and make it more drought-proof. However, our septic field is under there, so running birds there full-time is not a good idea. Similarly, I've got some fruit trees, and I was able to move one of my 4x8 shelters around their drip line easily which I couldn't do with a higher or bigger shelter.

Just my thoughts!

I like Jay's suggestion though if I were doing this I would:

Brody said, "Keep the current coop for mobile summer use and build a stationary winter coop.

Except mine would not be a winter coop.  Mine would be a year-round coop.

I have a 4x12 chicken tractor .... about 6ft high with 2 windows.  I have moved it repeatedly without damage to the windows,  for what is is worth, I keep 4 chickens in it, and I don’t feel they have enough room.  

Lorinne Anderson wrote:I hear your concerns are a need for greater ventilation and height/headroom for the girls.

Without adding significant weight, and providing additional height/light/headroom could you not remove the existing roof structure and add a 6-12 inch band of hardware cloth (1cm welded avian wire) around the top that could be closed in with clear coroplast/greenhouse panels or Glas if too cold in winter. Reinstall existing roof system that you are currently happy with, just plop it back on.

I doubt the extra lumber would add much weight, and unlikely to push you past the point where it becomes unwieldy - I would guess only 10lbs.

I dont think this idea would work quite like you’re imagining, but it is giving me an angle I hadn’t thought of yet. I may be able to so something like this and make it work. I also may try to lower their roosts to give them more head space. I know people say to make the roosts at least a foot off the ground, but as of now their roosts are probably only 8” above the coop floor. They duck underneath all the time and dont seem to mind at all. Maybe because the coop floor is a foot above ground level, or just because even though its low, its still a roost and the only roost they’ve got, so they accept it. Either way, I could drop it down a few more inches. They wouldn’t fit under it anymore, but they dont need to. Its all poopy under there anyway.

Stacie Kim wrote:That was my thought, but I was thinking glass windows might be too heavy and breakable. I'm not familiar with the weights of greenhouse panels. My thought was clear plastic like shower curtains. They could be bungeed down to keep them from blowing in the winter winds.

I agree. If I do go the route of raising up the roof, I would probably use greenhouse plastic or something less fragile in the winter. I have plenty of plastic sheeting as it is, and that would let some light in for them.

Jay Angler wrote:I'm going to take a second approach:  Build a second one like the one you've got and operate the girls as two smaller flocks that can socialize with each other during the day if they wish.

Reasons: 1) I agree - 7 chickens in 4x8 ft is plenty when you consider airflow/heat/etc.
2) Having an "older flock" and a "younger flock" allows you flexibility when you need to add new chicks to refresh things.
3) Some things don't scale down or up - I've met way too many "portable" coops that don't move regularly because as you identified, they're too heavy or awkward to move, or they only move easily on flat, level ground which can be hard to come by.
4) The only way I know of to go lighter, usually involves plastic and I'm trying not to end up with more of that as recycling it is really unreliable. One thing you could try if money isn't an issue, is look into aluminium roofing options. If you do decide to raise the roof a little, please listen to Lorinne and use "1cm welded avian wire" and *not* "chicken wire" as we've had too many things chew through chicken wire. If the roof blocks rain from getting in, with that density of birds, I doubt you'd need anything covering it - chickens can cope with cold so long as they're dry. Consider the weather when you choose their winter parking spot and plan now for wind abatement (start plants??)
5) With two coops operating independently, it gives you more options as to where you put them. One year I had a small group of ducks acting as my "front lawn fertilization committee" and it really helped to improve the soil and make it more drought-proof. However, our septic field is under there, so running birds there full-time is not a good idea. Similarly, I've got some fruit trees, and I was able to move one of my 4x8 shelters around their drip line easily which I couldn't do with a higher or bigger shelter.

Just my thoughts!

I really dont like the idea of 2 separate coops/flocks just for the fact that it’s twice as much to manage. 2 feeders, 2 waterers, 2 places to scoop poop and change bedding, 2 coops to move around when its time... If I build a second coop, I’d rather it be stationary so that I can really build it well and convenient for them and us. Because the mobile coop is far from convenient for us. Its alright for them, but it’s main purpose was to be mobile and keep them sheltered, not be practical... I’m realizing that’s silly now that we’re a year in!

I do see all your points though and agree. Also, I could probably change up the roof to make it lighter. I could drop the roosts down a few inches, raise the roof a few inches and replace the 3 steel roofing panels with aluminum instead. That would provide more head space, room for ventilation and less weight. As of now, the roof is a full sheet of plywood with underlayment and 3 steel roofing panels. The roof is very heavy, so maybe changing that up would help alot.

Anne Miller wrote:I like Jay's suggestion though if I were doing this I would:

Brody said, "Keep the current coop for mobile summer use and build a stationary winter coop.

Except mine would not be a winter coop.  Mine would be a year-round coop.

Thats an option too. A permanent coop for the main flock and a mobile coop for youngsters, newbies or anyone injured or quarantined. But that presents new issues: twice as much chicken maintenance since there’s 2 coops and 2 flocks, and keeping chickens on the same ground year round really doesn’t sit well with me. I dont see how they wouldn’t ruin the yard, create an abundant parasite load in the soil and make for a stinking dirty mess. Unless their space was greatly oversized, which I would likely do anyway. Even now I usually give them way more than enough space in their runs.

Brody Ekberg wrote: A permanent coop for the main flock and a mobile coop for youngsters, newbies or anyone injured or quarantined. But that presents new issues: twice as much chicken maintenance since there’s 2 coops and 2 flocks, and keeping chickens on the same ground year round really doesn’t sit well with me. I don't see how they wouldn’t ruin the yard, create an abundant parasite load in the soil and make for a stinking dirty mess. Unless their space was greatly oversized, which I would likely do anyway. Even now I usually give them way more than enough space in their runs.

I admit I'm *totally* biased to a portable system, but it's definitely more work. There's this attitude out there that "chickens are easy" and that "chickens don't need much" but many people who raise their chickens with that attitude don't seem to care if an eagle takes 1/2 of them or a bunch of new chicks die of cocci.

If you want to try a permanent structure I would take a page out of Paul's chicken book and design it so that you have:
a) the coop with a permanent guaranteed safe run that you can operate on a deep mulch system.
b) a minimum of 5 paddocks surrounding that first run with pop doors that can open and close to allow access at your discretion.
c) plant those paddocks with all sorts of chicken-friendly plants and ideally some things that attract and support insects as chickens are big on eating insects.
d) ideally, plant shrubs and trees that humans benefit from also +/- have an area that you can plant some annuals for human consumption so you can give that paddock a longer break from chickens and still have it productive. Example: if Paddock 1 has raspberry canes, don't let the birds in that paddock for a month or so while you get a crop off.
e) rotate the chickens from paddock to paddock at least weekly.

Even better, I'd also take a page out of my book - learn from your mistakes and make sure you build to be convenient for humans.
Things I really want: standing room for my height for the "people door" and for the main area with no low area out-side my arms reach. Having to kneel in poop to reach a scared, sick chicken is bad planning!
All nest boxes are individual 12 x 14" boxes that can be easily removed for cleaning or isolating a broody bird. (and not too many of them - 3 boxes for 10-15 birds is fine if the boxes are deep and chicken-friendly, but have a spare for back-up).
All perches are easy to remove for cleaning and oiling (I use whatever cheap veggie oil I can get, as it's not as if the birds are going to eat the stuff, but it smothers mites.) Then I let them dry/absorb in the sun for the day then put them back in.
The coop itself has simple lines with few cracks on the inside for mites and lice to hide. Every time I've met someone who was complaining their birds didn't like going "home" at night, a quick look showed a massive mite/lice problem. This can happen to anyone as they can be spread by wild birds. Having a coop that's easy to clean for when the inevitable happens, happens at the design stage.
Some of the paddocks might even have a "free-range" pop-door, if you're in a situation where you can let the birds go further for exercise and bug control. Make a "chunnel" system if you want to be able to guide the chickens to a specific area to range.

This is a lot of work up-front to get working, but once it is, it is far less work and the chickens will be genuinely able to forage for much of their food. Unfortunately, my land is not well designed for this, so I'm sticking with the lightest weight portable structures Hubby could design and build and they move every second day, but it's  *huge* amount of work and we can only move them over grass/low forbs.  A lady can dream though! I suspect my ducks will get a paddock system before my chickens do and hopefully that will be this winter, as moving their portable fencing is a drag... pun intended!

I do agree with Jay's recommendations!

We have never had a chicken tractor so that is foreign to me.  I can't imagine how chickens would live in a tractor. I can see spending the day there but not at night.

We have always had a permanent structure with deep litter.

We have always had a chicken yard as we have never free ranged.  Our chicken yard would be the same as a chicken run.

We also use a lot of time-saving devices that would not work in a tractor like an automatic door and a nipple watering system.

I would suggest really looking into what Jay have recommended.

Jay Angler wrote:I admit I'm *totally* biased to a portable system, but it's definitely more work. There's this attitude out there that "chickens are easy" and that "chickens don't need much" but many people who raise their chickens with that attitude don't seem to care if an eagle takes 1/2 of them or a bunch of new chicks die of cocci.

If you want to try a permanent structure I would take a page out of Paul's chicken book and design it so that you have:
a) the coop with a permanent guaranteed safe run that you can operate on a deep mulch system.
b) a minimum of 5 paddocks surrounding that first run with pop doors that can open and close to allow access at your discretion.
c) plant those paddocks with all sorts of chicken-friendly plants and ideally some things that attract and support insects as chickens are big on eating insects.
d) ideally, plant shrubs and trees that humans benefit from also +/- have an area that you can plant some annuals for human consumption so you can give that paddock a longer break from chickens and still have it productive. Example: if Paddock 1 has raspberry canes, don't let the birds in that paddock for a month or so while you get a crop off.
e) rotate the chickens from paddock to paddock at least weekly.

Even better, I'd also take a page out of my book - learn from your mistakes and make sure you build to be convenient for humans.
Things I really want: standing room for my height for the "people door" and for the main area with no low area out-side my arms reach. Having to kneel in poop to reach a scared, sick chicken is bad planning!
All nest boxes are individual 12 x 14" boxes that can be easily removed for cleaning or isolating a broody bird. (and not too many of them - 3 boxes for 10-15 birds is fine if the boxes are deep and chicken-friendly, but have a spare for back-up).
All perches are easy to remove for cleaning and oiling (I use whatever cheap veggie oil I can get, as it's not as if the birds are going to eat the stuff, but it smothers mites.) Then I let them dry/absorb in the sun for the day then put them back in.
The coop itself has simple lines with few cracks on the inside for mites and lice to hide. Every time I've met someone who was complaining their birds didn't like going "home" at night, a quick look showed a massive mite/lice problem. This can happen to anyone as they can be spread by wild birds. Having a coop that's easy to clean for when the inevitable happens, happens at the design stage.
Some of the paddocks might even have a "free-range" pop-door, if you're in a situation where you can let the birds go further for exercise and bug control. Make a "chunnel" system if you want to be able to guide the chickens to a specific area to range.

This is a lot of work up-front to get working, but once it is, it is far less work and the chickens will be genuinely able to forage for much of their food. Unfortunately, my land is not well designed for this, so I'm sticking with the lightest weight portable structures Hubby could design and build and they move every second day, but it's  *huge* amount of work and we can only move them over grass/low forbs.  A lady can dream though! I suspect my ducks will get a paddock system before my chickens do and hopefully that will be this winter, as moving their portable fencing is a drag... pun intended!

I like all that advice and will definitely take it into consideration. Especially the oiling of their roosts. I haven’t heard of doing that but it seems like it could help, and I’ve got old sunflower oil I was just wondering what to do with yesterday. As of now, their roosts are actually just dried slabs of tree bark which they really seem to like, but they’re full of cracks and crevices. I haven’t seen signs of mites or lice yet but have been watching. Id need to replace the roosts to oil them, but planned on replacing them anyway as I tweak some things with the coop.

I also really like the multiple paddock system based around a permanent coop. I think if I build a permanent coop that will be the way to go. As of now, we have been rotating the 7 chickens across our front yard which totals around 16,000 square feet, but is in 3 sections due to a loop driveway. They spend winter (probably 5 months) on the same 6,000 square feet and then once the snow melts we get them on fresh ground about once every month or two depending on several factors. We try to keep them off the winter spot all summer to let it heal. I think if I make a permanent coop, it will have to be in their winter area and divide that into 3-4 paddocks. Something I’ll definitely consider.

And I totally agree that being portable is more work and that the people who think chickens are easy probably are not doing a lot of what we do. I’m ok with losing a bird occasionally, but try my hardest to keep them alive, happy and healthy and to be preventative with issues that could arise. Its more work than I thought it would be, but I feel good about it and they seem well. Plus, so far we haven’t had much of the dirty stinking yard ruining mess that can come with free ranging or a permanent run. Late winter was getting gross, but thats inevitable after 5 months and the area looks great now.

Brody Ekberg wrote:

I really dont like the idea of 2 separate coops/flocks just for the fact that it’s twice as much to manage. 2 feeders, 2 waterers, 2 places to scoop poop and change bedding, 2 coops to move around when its time... If I build a second coop, I’d rather it be stationary so that I can really build it well and convenient for them and us. Because the mobile coop is far from convenient for us. Its alright for them, but it’s main purpose was to be mobile and keep them sheltered, not be practical... I’m realizing that’s silly now that we’re a year in!

I do see all your points though and agree. Also, I could probably change up the roof to make it lighter. I could drop the roosts down a few inches, raise the roof a few inches and replace the 3 steel roofing panels with aluminum instead. That would provide more head space, room for ventilation and less weight. As of now, the roof is a full sheet of plywood with underlayment and 3 steel roofing panels. The roof is very heavy, so maybe changing that up would help alot.

My long term chicken plans include 1-2 mobile coops (depending on how many birds - the larger you get the more unweildy moving it is) and eventually once I work out the right location and build a really robust setup, a winter coop closer to the house with power run out to it and a covered run. This would allow for me to take advantage of the growing plants and bugs when they're available and eliminate the hassle of winterizing mobile coops, allowing me to have a heated water situation too.  This would also allow me to either use it as a breeding pen or area to brood while the rest of the flock is out and about through most of the year.

Hi Brody,
There are some videos where Justin talks about using that coop even in Winter. It is not perfect, but if you don't have a more permanent structure like a greenhouse it can be used fine. He talks about how critical ventilation is, and how Chickens will do better with good ventilation and colder temps than they would with warmer temps but no ventilation.  

Secondly, your coop does sound super heavy. Using 2x4's, 4x4's and plywood... those are all very heavy. I would recommend minimal 2x4's, using 2x2 or even 1" lumber for a lot of things. It needs to withstand being moved and to keep the chickens in. It doesn't need to be super strong. Hardware Cloth (chicken wire is not strong enough and the holes are too big) for part of the sides, and aluminum (although expensive) is WAY lighter than metal roofing. All of those could reduce the overall weight.

Another thing to think about is when you move your coop. I built a coop based on plans from Eliot Coleman. I like it ok, though I'd probably change a few things in hindsight. It is 6x6 with room for 50 chickens, and when it is empty, my 9yo can move it by himself with some effort. He and his 7yo brother can move it fairly easily. However, when our 30 chickens are in at night... and not in the middle to balance things... I huff a bit when I move it around. So if you have the fencing or chickens that don't stray, or are free-ranged anyway. Build a bigger one, and move it when its empty. Or, you might be able to get away building it bigger with lighter materials.

Good luck. Keeping chickens is an adventure, a learning experience, and very rewarding. Don't let perfect stand in the way of good. Having more people raising chickens in their backyard (even if its not "perfect") I think is a good thing. We all learn what works for our land, our chickens, and our lifestyle.

I love conversations like these.

My solution to large coop problems is twofold: use long handles on a coop with wheels on one side, such that you socket the handles when needed to move the tractor, and replace them backwards in their sockets for storage, and lean on the long handles to lift the coop and move it (so when you stop leaning, it stops rolling); also, landscape features such as crop/pasture/garden bed alleys sized for the length of the tractor, separated by rails on which the wheels (or alternate wheels) sit.

Such a design might move with a gentle lean on level ground. One could even install a winch, connected to a post at the end of the row, enabling a densely-stocked chicken tractor to be easily, even automatically, moved several times, just the distance of its width, such that the chooks get fresh grazing several times a day.

For the long-handled design, you'd still need large wheels to avoid ruts in realistic paddock situations. I would almost consider a doubled or fat-tire bicycle wheel setup.

I think about using tracks in situations where the ground might get seasonally muddy at bad times, or for aging gracefully into a permaculture retirement.

I second ideas that plastic is to be avoided at all costs. I am happy to know that strides are being made in not only the development of specific strains of fungi that eat specific formulations of plastic, but also different grown, processed transparent plastic alternatives. I don't see it as a reason to become jaded to introducing new plastic. However, if it's from a waste stream, and you can, say, take pains to secure the edges so as to avoid tattering and microplastics, you could get use out of it until it can no longer be used.

I was also wondering how translucent a product made from folded and woven transparent plastic glazing would be, specifically weathered and discarded. Imagine strips cut and folded in on themselves so as to hide vulnerable edges, then woven loom-like on, say, a cattle panel lattice. Would something like that have greater utility and durability than the same stuff used as plastic wrap?

As to any stationary coops, I know and respect Paul's opinion about the handling of animal excrement, and that if the structure moves regularly, you don't have to do that, and there's no smell, which tells you that's the right way to go. But I also feel that, especially in some areas of high-predation or extreme temperatures, having a stationary coop can have huge advantages. You can build out of masonry or earth.

One thing I would be especially aware of in their construction, though, is how they get clean. If I unfasten the roof assembly, stand it on end atop my compost pile, and give it a quick pressure wash, and then drive a front-end loader, or a mini garden tractor, or take two swipes with a shovel and a push broom, and it's clean, the ick of mucking it out is minimized. Same for if all the internal infrastructure can be pressure washed and left to dry in the sun.

-CK

Laurel Jones wrote:
My long term chicken plans include 1-2 mobile coops (depending on how many birds - the larger you get the more unweildy moving it is) and eventually once I work out the right location and build a really robust setup, a winter coop closer to the house with power run out to it and a covered run. This would allow for me to take advantage of the growing plants and bugs when they're available and eliminate the hassle of winterizing mobile coops, allowing me to have a heated water situation too.  This would also allow me to either use it as a breeding pen or area to brood while the rest of the flock is out and about through most of the year.

I totally agree that larger mobile coops get to be unwieldy. Ours is almost there now and adding on would probably require 2 people to move it. Not the end of the world but it’s another limitation.

And I like your thoughts about using the winter coop and run as a brooding area. Or a sick area or intermittent area when introducing new flock members. I may do something similar in the future, but I want to see how this winter goes with our current setup. Last winter was our first and, overall it went well. But we did have some issues and a learning curve. Made some changes and I’m feeling optimistic about this winter.

Matt McSpadden wrote:Hi Brody,
I will first correct your thought that the coop Justin had was not for Winter. It is not perfect, but if you don't have a more permanent structure like a greenhouse it can be used fine. He talks about how critical ventilation is, and how Chickens will do better with good ventilation and colder temps than warmer temps but no ventilation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCDdamA84Vk

Secondly, your coop does sound super heavy. Using 2x4's, 4x4's and plywood... those are all very heavy. I would recommend minimal 2x4's, using 2x2 or even 1" lumber for a lot of things. It needs to withstand being moved and to keep the chickens in. It doesn't need to be super strong. Hardware Cloth (chicken wire is not strong enough and the holes are too big) for part of the sides, and aluminum (although expensive) is WAY lighter than metal roofing. All of those could reduce the overall weight.

Another thing to think about is when you move your coop. I built a coop based on plans from Eliot Coleman. I like it ok, though I'd probably change a few things in hindsight. It is 6x6 with room for 50 chickens, and when it is empty, my 9yo can move it by himself with some effort. He and his 7yo brother can move it fairly easily. However, when our 30 chickens are in at night... and not in the middle to balance things... I huff a bit when I move it around. So if you have the fencing or chickens that don't stray, or are free-ranged anyway. Build a bigger one, and move it when its empty. Or, you might be able to get away building it bigger with lighter materials.

Good luck. Keeping chickens is an adventure, a learning experience, and very rewarding. Don't let perfect stand in the way of good. Having more people raising chickens in their backyard (even if its not "perfect") I think is a good thing. We all learn what works for our land, our chickens, and our lifestyle.

I guess I would need to look at Justin’s coop design again, I just remember thinking to myself that it looked slick for summer but that it looked like it would crumble under a couple feet of wet heavy snow and also need skis to move around, or else block it up in one location until the snow melts.

Speaking of ventilation: that was one of the issues we had. I didn’t have enough ventilation and everyone got frostbitten combs last winter. Twice... I felt horrible but learned. I covered all the windows so wind couldn’t blow through cracks and then added more ventilation above the windows as high up as possible. This winter will be the test to see how that works out.

As far as the construction materials go: I was working primarily with whatever I had access to at home or nearby for free. All I bought was screws, a couple sheets of plywood and tires. And I figured it would be better to build it stronger than necessary so that I didnt have to worry about larger predators like bears, and heavy snowload in the winter. I also assumed it would be easy to move since its on wheels and our yard is flat, but I’m finding “flat” is relative (small divots make a difference!) and larger wheels would probably roll easier across the grass.

We will probably be putting a metal roof on our garage next summer so if there’s leftover roofing I will probably replace the steel roof on the coop. That would lighten it up significantly as you said. All the free stuff I have access to is used and so is full of holes. And I dont want to go buy new stuff solely for this purpose, so for now I wait.

I also totally agree with chicken keeping being an adventure and rewarding. I do feel like we have a good setup, although not perfect. But, nobody has a perfect setup. There’s always new things to learn and consider and changes that could make things more efficient or effective. Its all in the process!

I saw a sweet adaptation to the laying box on a program the other day; for starters, it was not solid, but upcycled plastic "milk crate" type unit. This was mounted on a slight angle, with the lower 2 inches, on the back removed. The floor looked as though it was covered with astro turf type product.

The tilt and astro turf allows the laid eggs to gently roll outside of the nest box to a collection shelf, also lined with astro turf.

Please don't condemn the astro turf portion; not sure what it was (featured was a permie farm) and I am sure something such as felt could be used. But the key to me was the elimination of fishing for eggs from hens that often do not appreciate the intrusion; and the simple maintenance boxes like these would require. The reused plastic crates would easily hose/scrub off, and be less likely to harbor nasties (as wood may). Same for the matting, easily removed and cleaned.

Chris Kott wrote:I love conversations like these.

My solution to large coop problems is twofold: use long handles on a coop with wheels on one side, such that you socket the handles when needed to move the tractor, and replace them backwards in their sockets for storage, and lean on the long handles to lift the coop and move it (so when you stop leaning, it stops rolling); also, landscape features such as crop/pasture/garden bed alleys sized for the length of the tractor, separated by rails on which the wheels (or alternate wheels) sit.

Such a design might move with a gentle lean on level ground. One could even install a winch, connected to a post at the end of the row, enabling a densely-stocked chicken tractor to be easily, even automatically, moved several times, just the distance of its width, such that the chooks get fresh grazing several times a day.

For the long-handled design, you'd still need large wheels to avoid ruts in realistic paddock situations. I would almost consider a doubled or fat-tire bicycle wheel setup.

I think about using tracks in situations where the ground might get seasonally muddy at bad times, or for aging gracefully into a permaculture retirement.

I second ideas that plastic is to be avoided at all costs. I am happy to know that strides are being made in not only the development of specific strains of fungi that eat specific formulations of plastic, but also different grown, processed transparent plastic alternatives. I don't see it as a reason to become jaded to introducing new plastic. However, if it's from a waste stream, and you can, say, take pains to secure the edges so as to avoid tattering and microplastics, you could get use out of it until it can no longer be used.

I was also wondering how translucent a product made from folded and woven transparent plastic glazing, specifically weathered and discarded. Imagine strips cut and folded in on themselves so as to hide vulnerable edges, then woven loom-like on, say, a cattle panel lattice. Would something like that have greater utility and durability than the same stuff used as plastic wrap?

As to any stationary coops, I know and respect Paul's opinion about the handling of animal excrement, and that if the structure moves regularly, you don't have to do that, and there's no smell, which tells you that's the right way to go. But I also feel that, especially in some areas of high-predation or extreme temperatures, having a stationary coop can have huge advantages. You can build out of masonry or earth.

One thing I would be especially aware of in their construction, though, is how they get clean. If I unfasten the roof assembly, stand it on end atop my compost pile, and give it a quick pressure wash, and then drive a front-end loader, or a mini garden tractor, or take two swipes with a shovel and a push broom, and it's clean, the ick of mucking it out is minimized. Same for if all the internal infrastructure can be pressure washed and left to dry in the sun.

-CK

I like those ideas and will certainly keep them in mind. I’ve made a few changes to the coop so far and have a few more to make before winter. I’m thinking I’ll see how things to this winter before deciding on whether to build a new coop for next year.

I thought we were going to have 12 chickens this winter and our coop would probably be too small for them ideally, and so I was considering alternatives. 4 of our 6 chicks died though, so as of now we’re at 8 and that’s actually the number I had in mind when designing the coop. So we will see how this goes.

Last winter we had frostbitten combs a couple times which was my main issue with the coop. But, I learned what was happening and it was my fault. I covered the windows more tightly to stop air from blowing directly on them at night, and I added a lot more ventilation above them by the roofline. I think and hope that they will all avoid frostbite with these new changes. Also will look at replacing the steel roof with aluminum to cut down on weight.

My other reasons for wanting a different coop setup is for convenience of adding new flock members, isolating sick or injured birds, and because we can probably only fit about 8 chickens in our current coop. I dont want a bunch, but I feel like 12 could be reasonable on the future. Overall though, I do really like the way this is working out. The coop is easy enough for one person to move regularly. And the 4’ snow fencing has worked wonderfully for keeping the chickens. They dont even attempt to fly over and the fencing is easy to move, although a little time consuming.

I do have a bunch of lumber and plan on building stuff next year, so who knows. Maybe I’ll build a permanent coop even if this winter goes well. Even if it’s only for winter, newcomers, sick/injured and raising chicks, another coop would be useful.

As for the cleaning/ mucking out of the coop, I think I would plan on doing a deep litter method, especially if the coop will primarily be used in winter. Hopefully then cleaning will be less of a shitty mess and more of a compost pile harvest. Although, I’m thinking not much decomposition will happen throughout winter. I suppose I would end up cleaning it out “raw” in spring, making a pile and letting it compost outside of the coop.

Lorinne Anderson wrote:I saw a sweet adaptation to the laying box on a program the other day; for starters, it was not solid, but upcycled plastic "milk crate" type unit. This was mounted on a slight angle, with the lower 2 inches, on the back removed. The floor looked as though it was covered with astro turf type product.

The tilt and astro turf allows the laid eggs to gently roll outside of the nest box to a collection shelf, also lined with astro turf.

Please don't condemn the astro turf portion; not sure what it was (featured was a permie farm) and I am sure something such as felt could be used. But the key to me was the elimination of fishing for eggs from hens that often do not appreciate the intrusion; and the simple maintenance boxes like these would require. The reused plastic crates would easily hose/scrub off, and be less likely to harbor nasties (as wood may). Same for the matting, easily removed and cleaned.

I’d be so worried about eggs smashing at first. Im sure after a dozen or so eggs roll down it some confidence would build though! Ill keep that in mind. I’ve got more plastic milk crates than I know what to do with right now. Currently, our hens are all done laying by early afternoon and its easy for me to gather eggs without issue. But, that can change quickly with a broody hen!

Also, aside from mites and excessive dust, is there anything else wood can harbor that is detrimental to chickens? Our nest boxes are those pine wood lath boxes. We definitely have dust, but so far they’ve been pretty clean birds. The nest boxes rarely have a stray poop in them and the only cleaning I do to the wood is sweep/brush dust off. I haven’t seen signs of mites but to watch for them.

I’d be so worried about eggs smashing at first.

The slope was less than an inch over about 6-8 inches...very slight, just enough for the eggs to leave the "box" and move to the "shelf" that was about 8 inches.

I have mixed feelings about sloped nest boxes. Since our birds are in portable bottomless shelters which get moved, sometimes their nests are on a slope and the eggs roll one way or another. However, the chicken stands up to lay, then turns and gathers in her egg and sits down on it until she's ready to leave the nest.  Some of the sloped nests are designed so that the egg rolls away right after being laid and before the hen's done with it. This would make it hard to know if a girl's going broody and may not respect the 'chickeness' of the process, in favor of human convenience.
That said, I have not tried them myself. I *do* know that chickens will show a preference for some styles of nest box over another. We've got two pairs that I made for a tight situation, and they don't give the birds the same level of privacy as my later 3 seaters that are a full 14 inches deep. The birds clearly don't like the 11 inch deep ones as well. However, they're happy to lay in either style of Muscovy nest boxes I made - one style is good and the second is not only deep, but the front has a panel with a cut-out to one side and solid on the other, so the birds go in and move behind the panel to sit. One shelter we use for miscellaneous purposes actually has 4 styles of nest boxes - both Muscovy style, one oversized that I decided didn't work but would give birds shelter, and a set of commercial nest boxes I've got on permanent loan. The chickens hardly ever lay in the commercial ones and rotate between all the others.