Amanda La wrote:Thank you Benjamin. I suppose you are right that the parts will get wet again. Yes, I am sad to remove the patina. I started the vinegar thing before I read your reply (and vinegar is quite available to me) but I’ll probably stop it prematurely and just clean it with a wire brush or fine steel wool.
I’m not very optimistic about the cracks and will ask around for a welder. Good to know about the spare part you might have. How do I contact you should I decide to check that you have one?? I’m new to the forum.
Still waiting for the WD40 to loosen the handle but looks like I’ll have to make a trip to the store to get some penetrator oil and wood glue. Lol, I looked up what a corrugated fastener was and, well, I’ll have to ask around if anyone has one or stop at a construction site.
It’s fun and amusing to learn new things!
Thanks for the information. Any extra information is always welcomed.
Jordan Holland wrote:I agree the corrugated fasteners would likely be asking for trouble, especially on old wood. The collar wrapping around the end is what was originally designed to prevent splitting. If it does not fit tightly, I would consider shims of some sort to make it tight.
Amanda La wrote:I guess I do have a question. If the current angle is 15 degrees, should I maintain this angle or try and file down to 7-9 degrees? I think working hard now to file to a flatter 7-9 degree angle is better since the bevel will ultimately last longer with future sharpenings??
Amanda La wrote:That's a really good point. I could sharpen the current bevel with stones and not change too much. There's no dents/pits in the current bevel so it shouldn't be too crazy to use stones in the first instance.
As for the draw knife, there are pits in the back too! Not as obvious but I guess I'm never gonna get it razor sharp without the saw tooths. I guess I now know what to look for when buying older bladers. Good lesson! Luckily the draw knife does what I need it to do. Whew!
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