It's best for a draft to suck air through rather than the fire push it through if possible, otherwise smoke and CO are a concern.
Mark Dumont wrote: My point about the push is that one logical way to increase exhaust temp is to increase heat output. Perhaps my 6" J-style CFB core is undersized for what i want it to do?
One possibility is to replace the split barrels w/ pipes, but this would be really short, like 12 ft of pipe plus a bend (a bend = 5 feet in E & E's boot, so that would be 17 ft, close to the 20 ft they cite). But how much heat can I expect from so little pipe in mass?
“an exhaust chimney temperature of 100 to 150 F… is hot enough to rise under cold, dry, winter conditions… but may not be hot enough for reliable draft in warm or humid climates (California, Gulf States, Israel, Australia).
Lower Temperature exhausts may be more fuel efficient but have less draft and are more cantankerous to operate in warm or windy weather. When this disadvantage combines with cold-start conditions such as a cold chimney, or when the mass is below optimal temperatures, you can have a very balky stove that wants to run backwards 9r not at all). Especially for milder climates or second homes, we favor a shorter bench for a more reliable draft.
European masonry heaters typically exhaust at 200-300 F, to avoid the dew point of water in all conditions. They rarely run more than 20 feet of horizontal heat exchange channels. A rocket mass heater built to this convention, in the short to mid-range for our parameters, will enjoy ore reliable draft in all conditions, but may lose up to 15% of its potential efficiency.
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jordan; Where are you taking that temperature? And are you using an infrared gun on the pipe?
Do we have photo's of your build ?