Artie Scott wrote:Steve, I know that heat all to well, I don’t know how you did that! But great video, thanks for the sacrifice - hope you keep us updated on how the tree responds.
Isaac Jamieson wrote:I have built up a mound prior to planting my lime tree, as my soil has a lot of clay and gets very wet. It is going fine. I've never thought of building the mound after planting.
Adding soil above the graft? Brilliant!
Thanks for the inspiration.
This should generally make the tree more vigorous, right?
I'm now thinking of doing this to my mandarin, which is slow growing, and to my small, young lemon. Because I think they could use the vigor in my heavy soil and I don't mind bigger plants.
Artie Scott wrote:Some interesting points there Steve that raise some questions in my mind. If I understand correctly, planting (or mounding) above the graft will result in the tree reverting to its own characteristics vice the root stock. Which, if you want the tree’s natural characteristics as you have described, makes perfect sense.
My question is, then why buy a tree grafted onto dwarf or semi-dwarf root stock at all?
I thought that the benefits of grafting were both to limit size, and also because the particular rootstock had other superior characteristics, such as disease resistance, etc...
Planting or mounding above the graft would seem to eliminate any advantage of buying a grafted tree. Or am I misunderstanding?
Isaac Jamieson wrote:Ok. I'm back to forest building.
I've wounded the trunk above the graft and added soil and mulch.
First I made some space as the daisy that protects the mandarin was rubbing on the trunk and its early Spring here, so more exposure to the world is in order.
The mandarin is not quite up to my hip height now. It will be interesting to observe its growth in the future.
Steve Thorn wrote:
It's neat to see your plants getting going for the Spring, as mine are getting ready to slow down for the Fall.
Excited to see how it turns out!
Isaac Jamieson wrote:I wonder if adding additional soil makes the crown less elevated.
I'm thinking kind of no, because the crown isn't actually going deeper, but kind of yes, because it now has more soil above it.
Let's hope that it is not too much of an issue. The soil I added was from under deciduous trees, light and full of humus. Being light is probably a good thing, but being full of organic material, this holding more water may be an issue, right?
Steve Thorn wrote:I found another frog in a different apple tree looking at a bug.
Sic 'em little froggy!
This one's coloration seemed better for some of the leaf litter below, but I saw him this morning, and this evening I saw him again, so I was glad to see he didn't get eaten yet.
Steve Thorn wrote:The height of the mound for my pomegranate mentioned above sounds about the same as your bed. Including the ditch, the total height may be 18 inches. I've been experimenting with different heights, and have recently been building the mounds about 2 feet high and the ditches about a foot deep, so about 3 feet from the bottom of the ditch. It should be interesting to see the effects of different heights.
Steve Thorn wrote:Thanks Diane!
If you're planting in a really really dry spot, I probably wouldn't make a mound actually. If your soil is draining very well, I'd just plant the tree kind of deep so the roots have access to more water while getting started, mulch it with leaves to build soil fertility and to hold more moisture, and maybe even plant it in a slight depression in the ground if possible, to help collect more water.
Paw paws seems to be more tolerant of moist soil than other fruit trees, and they may even slightly prefer it.
I have a paw paw growing in a pretty moist and partly sunny area that seems to be very healthy and liking its location. It made its first flowers this year but no fruit. The flowers are really neat and unusual looking. Hopefully it'll produce some fruit next year!
Hope your paw paw does well!
Ken W Wilson wrote:I wouldn’t plant in a depression unless you are dry all year. I don’t think GA is? I think most locations would benefit from at least a bit of a mound, maybe a few inches.
Diane Kistner wrote:Do you only have one pawpaw? You need at least two that are not the same cultivar to produce fruit because they are not self-fertile.
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