Artie Scott wrote: ...don’t beat yourself up because you get scared, or take longer to cut using an unusual pattern. We need you round here!
Rene Nijstad wrote:Uhm, did anyone ever thought about terracing slopes? I know it's a lot of work, but excavators go quite fast and it only has to be done once. Benefits are huge if done correctly. Erosion almost totally grinds to a halt, terrain is suddenly save to traverse, most rainwater just sinks in because your compacted soils get broken up and are flat now... Stumps get dug up, and if you just keep mowing on time never grow again...
I mean, why not at least try it on the slopes most scary to you?
Pearl Sutton wrote:
Rene: Terracing is expected to start within a couple of weeks here. That's why it has to be cut right now, so we can see the ground levels. I contour mapped and marked it all last fall, then the heavy rains hit this spring (I'm in the Midwest flood territory) and next time I could get my tractor out the grass was 5 foot deep. I have had the terraces planned since the first time I walked this property, lot of factors in the way. It's part of house construction, the excavator will be here already. We are also building ponds! Had to cut that area too. I left 18 inch deep drifts of grass cuttings in that area, that was not easy to cut. House, terrace, and pond areas all had to be done. I'm down to a few bits of icky stuff near the house site, where we put test trenches, that have eroded, hard to cut when I don't know where the 3 foot deep trench is, or how bad it's edges will crumble if I get too close. The grass is over my head!!
Travis Johnson wrote:
The major thing to understand is the oscillating front axle. It has to pivot otherwise the rear tire would come off the ground and it would lose traction and stop. BUT that travel is limited, more so on a tractor then on a skidder which needs all the rotation it can get to go over stumps and rocks. So as the tractor goes into a hole with its rear wheels, the front axle pivots, but at some point it hits the frame of the tractor. 99% of the time or more, this is where the tractor stops rolling. It almost has too. In order for the tractor to keep rolling, the tractor must be so top heavy, or moving so fast, that it now overcomes the entire weight of the machine, and overcomes the width of the bushhog on the ground, and the stance of the tires...to tip over. To do that takes a lot. And I mean a lot. A LOT!
What a person is really feeling is the "pucker factor". It feels like the tractor is going to tip over, but it almost can't. What it takes to go over is to have a high center of gravity, and that means the bucket of the tractor is high up in the air, or the tractor is going too fast. If the bucket is lowered, the center of gravity is lower, and if the tractor is going slow, the front axle will pivot, then the tractor breaks traction and just spins one wheel.
To prevent roll over:
Keep your bucket low
Keep your bushog as low as possible
Do not use your differential lock
Stay out of four wheel drive if you can
Go straight up and down on hillsides and avoid sidehilling
Invert your back wheels (do not do so on your front wheels though).
Load your rear wheels with liquid ballast
Regarding the front axel, most every tractor I have ever seen has an axel that pivots about a center point. As an example of this in action, if the tractor is merrily going straight over flat land but hits a pothole on the right front tire, the front axel will pivot down on the right side so that all 4 tires maintain contact with the ground. Alternatively, if the right tire hit a bump the axel would pivot up on the right side. Without this feature, any time you hit a bump, dip, or any uneven patch of ground, the tractor would lose ground contact with at least one tire and possibly even two tires. The front axel almost acts like a sort of suspension for the front of the tractor.
Travis Johnson wrote:I see you have a nice robust tractor there Pearl, nice and heavy with wheel weights in the rear on those industrial lugged tractor tires! Nice tractor!
For working on hillsides, liquid ballast, whether beat juice or calcium, is a little better because the solution is always in the bottom of the tire making the center of gravity on a tractor a little lower than on the steel weights you have, but it is not so big of a deal that you should have your rear tires "loaded" as it is called. It is a fairly big expense, and may have been done on your tractor already.
In my roll over, I was coming around a corner on a 9% grade next to a fence line. because of that I had my loader up pretty high to clear the fence coming around the corner. I was also plowing and so making a 14 inch deep rut. What happened was, my front tire popped out of the furrow, and so I steered back into the furrow and when I did, the tractor just kept going over. The reason I rolled over was because the front axle never hit the frame during oscillation; my rear tire and front tire were on the same plane, and quite low compared to the left side of the tractor, and so it just rolled over. had I hit a bump, rolled over a stump, etc, I would have broke traction and spun out and never rolled.
Pearl Sutton wrote:I was much braver today after talking to y'all, THANK YOU!!
I also learned that my tractor can pull my truck out of the mud... whee.
Didn't have time to look at the undercarriage.
Travis Johnson wrote:An over-running clutch is also nice, something I never had on my old tractor either. Today they are on every tractor and half the farmers out there have no clue what I am talking about. All I can say is, it s downright scary to push the clutch in and KNOW the tractor will not stop for another 30 feet due to centrifigal force. You have to REALLY plan your way around a field and hope you never have to stop in an emergency.