Now is also a good time for a mulberry tree nursery and if successful a tree medick.
Both will be transplanted in the wintertime while dormant in wet soil, and then will not be given any care.
I hope to have at least 100 of each.
This way of tree planting is very exposed to the whims of the weather...a month ago we had a spell of 40 C days in early spring (104F). The change from mild rainy weather to very hot kills many of the new trees.
Last summer's extended hot weather and drought did the same. It even killed 3 to 4 year old trees. Some areas that I thought were completely planted, and had a few hundred young trees, were completely wiped out.
Its important to have multiple planting sites, even within a given area. The microclimate and soils differ even 100 meters apart and you get different results.
Failure is part of this effort and when doing this you hope for a break.... favorable weather.
Just because we encounter set backs, we don't give up...learn and persist. This effort to cover the earth and feed people will last years and years !!!
A few weeks ago, our local Trader Joe’s stop allowing reusable bags in the store. They started offering paper bags, which normally they charge for (in California). I think they’re free again. But I refuse to bring any more bags in the house, so I ask the cashiers to keep our items in the shopping cart; and we load them into reusable bags in the car -mainly so we can carry them into the house.
Btw, this is one store where they can neatly cram all your purchases in one bag; reminds me of old comic stripS where they show someone trying to balance and see where they’re walking while carrying a jam-packed grocery bag.
Yes, I also have Plastic bags in Plastic bags because I’m purchasing things packed in plastic, and people keep giving me things in plastic bags.
Kc Simmons wrote:
Jason Hernandez wrote:
The few times I forgot my reusable bag gave me more plastic bags than I could keep up with reusing for garbage, considering I was also reducing my garbage. I was that guy -- in my house, there was a plastic bag full of other plastic bags. Why the hell do they think they have to double bag everything? One bag's worth of groceries, they put in two doubled bags, for a total of four plastic bags altogether. It was so aggravating, it became the motivation for me just to skip shopping completely if I happened to forget my reusable bag. More than once, I made a scene of repacking my groceries into fewer bags, right there at the counter, and leaving them to deal with the unwanted ones. Now, I remember my reusable bag every time.
I'll admit... I'm also "that guy" with bags full of plastic bags LOL
I also prefer to use the self checkout when possible. For one, I am able to bag my groceries by type/category (produce, coffee and creamer, condiments, etc. bagged together)& I fill the bags to the max. I don't know why so many cashiers think it's okay to put only 4 canned goods or a single gallon of milk in a double bag, when I can get double that in a single bag.
I've also been thinking about ordering some of the paper grocery bags like stores used to have years ago. They are sturdy enough to be used several times, and when they finally get to torn for groceries, I can think of a hundred ways to use them until they return to the earth as compost. Reusable bags are great, but I've often found myself forgetting to get them... Or even forgetting where I put them after the last trip.
Thanks for the idea Daron! If the new ones I got this year don't make it, I'll give that a shot.
The seedlings in the greenhouse are doing fairly well. Biggest issue is aphids on the peppers and sweet potatoes. The citrus is doing quite well and has been flowering lightly but consistently since mid March. Looks like I'll have some lemons, key limes, mandarins, Australian finger limes and calamodin oranges this year (if all goes well).
Bananas and a passionfruit are in the ground. The bananas have been slow to get going compared to last year. The passion fruit started slow with some aphid attention but now it's starting to win the battle.
I have a double row of peas in the south planting bed that are just starting to have pickable pods. I could've planted them a month or two earlier.
I will probably empty the compost bin this week. Then I'll figure out how to demolish the bin and platform above it. No more compost in this greenhouse!
Ok thanks. In regards to mulch, I've read that the wine cap spawn I've ordered needs hardwood mulch, which I'll be layering with straw. Can I put some shredded pine bark mulch on the bottom of my 6" deep mulch layer in order to incorporate something that decomposes faster? I also do not have access to aged wood chip mulch, only fresh, not sure if that would be a problem. Thanks for the help!
I'm just about forever looking at things -- not what they are, but what they can become.
Probably the funniest story is the time that my best friend walked up to me, handed me the used radiator hose to his car, and said "can you use this to make something". I looked at it deep in thought and said. Wait a moment -- I ran and grabbed a tape measure, measured the diameter , and with a emphatic YES started to take it into the back... He stopped me and said "ok. I just HAVE to know what you are going to do with a used car radiator hose". I told him that I am rebuilding a 100 year old player piano, and the 90 degree elbow that goes from foot pump to the bellows box is shot. This is about 1/16'th of an inch to large, and I can make up the difference with some tape, strip of old tube, ... It worked like a champ.
Another time, that brought great amusement to the participants of DangerCon was when I showed up with my portable forge -- I left the warning sticker "using this product for other than intended uses is not recommended" (photos attached).
@ Angela, my guess is since the Asian carps are considered invasive exotics, there won't be commercial sources available, except for sterile grass carp in some places. You will have to go under the radar and make a trip to the Mississippi drainage and try to catch some for yourself, and you will need an aerated tank by which to get them home to your pond. Good luck!
i have been trying to get this tree species established on my place for a nearly 3 years now ,from my first batch of thirty seeds only 2 are still going---easy enough to get them germinating but the slugs love them as they come up and then the voles love cutting them down as the get going---they would seem to be very suited to our irish climate and there are supposedly some well established trees around the country from horticultural society collections---but i have never been able to track any down.Still trying to find a way to get them prosper better ,my 2nd batch of seeds all failed ---they came up very well but too late in the year and rotted away through the winter---my current batch of 20 seeds is germinating outdoors now after being outside in pots over the winter ---and i will be looking up some more info on soil inoculation and treatments ---i still wonder how those horticulture societies managed so well---great to see yours doing well .
Mihai Ilie wrote:They still make these pumps in Russia and i found a video presentation with the factory making of the pumps.
However,i dont know russian language and couldnt see the price they sell them .
Ukrainean also make them,they are called Bosna pumps and they are @ 50 euro one but at that price doesnt seem trusty ( could be made in China and sold as Ukrainean).
Russian original ones are the Kalashnikovs of the well pumps.Simple,robust and reliable to work for decades in use.
I actually bought a new one made in Russia for ~30€ which has been used occasionally since. (now sitting in the well I am working on…)
Ashley Cottonwood wrote:I'm thinking about purchasing some of these trees, but I'm on the edge of having warm enough weather.
I'm also worried about where to plant them, I'm wondering if they'll be an issue if planted next to other fruit trees or if chickens have access to fallen fruit.
According to some literature I read once put out by Canadian agricultural authorities, English type walnuts do not documentedly produce enough juglone to affect other plants. If you're worried I'd rake up and burn the leaves. I think bc would have enough heat for them.
I've eaten English walnuts, just not (to my knowledge) carpathian English walnuts.
Thank you for your input and information everyone!
I ended up purchasing a packet of seeds from Sheffield’s Seed Company. Listed as Chinese Mahogany, Chinese Toon, Red Toon, Toona sinensis. It contained around 70 seeds. I soaked half of them in carbon-filtered tap water for about 24 hours and planted in peat pellets. Kept at about 85F under a domed tray for 7 days so far. On the sixth day, germination was evident in about half the pellets.
In these photos, you see some of the most advanced seedlings today. I have potted a couple as roots had penetrated the bottom of the pellets. I put these under an LED grow lamp as it is still a little too cool to place them anyplace else to get enough light to avoid legginess.
I am cautiously optimistic! I soaked the remainder of the seeds yesterday and committed them to pellets this evening. Great luck sprouting at one week. Hopeful that we will end up with lots of little trees to pot up by summer.
I stick my bones in my wood stove. We don't have many, but if we cook a chicken, we have bones left over. First I make bone broth, then I stick them in my woodstove. I never put too many at once, and I always put them on the left side and buried under a bit of ash, that way there isn't too much moisture when I'm starting the woodstove, and they cooked when the stove gets hot. I try to keep a nice hot burn any time I have bones added to the stove, and I leave them in there for quite a few burns.
Amazing! I work for a biochar outfit in BC and were looking for more info on charging biochar with wood vinegar. If your Thai farmer friend has it, would love to learn more (specifically about dilution ratios for charging biochar with WV) .. much appreciated!!!
Mihai Ilie wrote:The most interesting stuff ive read about pyrolineous acid and biochar ,was when on a forum,a farmer from Thailand ( they use biochar and wood vinegar/ pyroligneous acid there for ages) told me that they mix the biochar with the pyroligneous acid and that big chunks of biochar treated this way,simply dissapear after just a year in the ground.
I assumed that the wood acid melts the char but i didnt tested this myself.
In case its true then they dont use it to aerate the soil or grow bacteria but just to feed the carbon similar to the huggelmounds just a lot faster.
Those asians really know a lot about biochar.
He posted pictures and said they grow seedlings in biochar only,without any soil added to it wich its hard to believe but im sure they have their secrets.
I too look for ways to improvise a smoke condenser to make my own pyroligneous acid because in Europe its quite hard to find and the hummic acid from Leonardite costs @ 25 dollars per litter.
Commenting on the sprouting broccoli:
My winter gardening book claims that these are already quite popular in UK and US.
I wanted to try it out and bought a variety which is called Early purple sprouting (IIRC).
In the first year, I had four plants which took up a fair amount of my tiny veggie beds. I did have cabbage worms, but they all recovered. Some fell over with time and after every thunderstorm I had to rearrange them and tie them in place.
One or two plants did NOT produce sprouts. They were all healthy and fine, but just no sprouts. The other plants produced nicely and I could harvest for a long time - in winter growth almost stopped, but I could get tiny sprouts.
Last year I decided I only needed two plants.
They did very nicely, no cabbage worms this year. One produced sprouts, the other looks very happy but with no sign of sprouts!
I could of course harvest the tender leaves, but frankly we are not a cabbage-eating family.
After recently having seen pictures in a German gardening group of some cabbage family plants that were simply left in place and that keep producing leaves or Brussel sprouts or dwarf kohlrabi, I have thought I might try leaving one plant just for the sake of experimenting what will happen if I remove all flower buds.
There are various companies that offer the seeds (I ordered it over the internet).
I had followed up on my other reading with this one, and at first missed what the author was documenting - the sociology of poop disposal in various cultures.
I think this is a *very* important factor in the equation and with the issues of an increasing number of displaced persons on the planet, the whole issue of not just safe "disposal" of urine and excrement, but genuinely safe, easy to access and emplace, systems to recapture the nutrients we excrete particularly following natural disasters like earthquakes or hurricanes when people are more concerned with getting through the day than on polluting the local drinking water supply.
It is way too easy for people in safe, secure homes, to miss how insecure many humans feel just managing basic care with no money or resources to spare to come up with a better system.
I'm personally a fan of the Humanure setup, and putting a compost bin in the back yard takes a 5'x10' space if you make 2 sides to alternate each year (one 5x5 space can handle 4-5 people) and you just put sides on it to keep pets out, and a wire screen on top if you have lots of rodent issues. I used chicken wire on mine, and one year doing Humanure it worked great, hitting temps of 130F the day after each deposit, and dropping to 115-120F 4-5 days later. 24 hours at 122F I think will kill off all pathogens per Joe Jenkins' book. There is no smell if you cover the pile properly, I used free mulch from the city and weeds. The mulch I would pour on a 1/2"x1/2" wire mesh sifter I made, to sort out the small bits/fines that I used as cover material inside, and the larger bits would be the cover after each deposit. The only smell inside was the mulch, no poop/pee smell and outside it was the same (which is a sore point for me with Paul's book, which does a major disservice to Humanure in the comparison chart but I digress).
I think Humanure is the simplest, most tested option which also has the least "what is that" factor for neighbors- all they see is a compost pile in the back and you can make it from free pallets, or cheap t-post corners with chicken wire attached to sides and top, or spend a lot of money on a plastic contraption if that's your thing. No need to use anaerobic storage, which some research suggests can take up to 4-6 years to guarantee 100% pathogen death (assuming you have ring worms when you use it, their eggs are the toughest by far when not using heat). I'd rather limit storage time, so you don't have a row of barrels accumulating on the property that you'd have to avoid or worse explain to others. Again a compost pile needs no explanation and if you follow the most basic steps in the Humanure setup it will kill off any pathogens and not smell, and pets can't bother it with some wire/board sides/top.
I recently started broad forking my compost with biochar into various areas. After forking, I cover with wood chips a few inches deep. I'm hoping to create really fertile soil much faster than I did with mulch alone.
Mike Lafay wrote:As I said, I still have a lot to learn, hence my oversight on the climate part. I live in a 8a zone.
Steve, I did a bit of digging to try some hugelkultur beds; there is some wood debris on the property that I can bury; actually you gave me an idea: instead of redirecting the water somewhere else, maybe I could just dig up the area where it accumulate, and bury those wood debris there ? This would raise the area, so less water accumulating (at least in a swamp-like way), and this would also help build some healthy earth layers. Would swales be required, as those you have in your video ?
Thanks for the tips too, those threads have interesting information and I'll take a look at them.
If it's not a whole lot of water, like you mentioned, possibly digging out the area a little, maybe to create a small pool to focus the water in a general spot, or also like you mentioned, digging a mini swale could spread the water out a little more, with raised beds around it to create drier growing areas.
I can certainly see where a person from an inland state would work their guts out because they have a deep love of the sea, and want to make a memorable career, despite where they grew up. Myself, living on the water, I admit that I do not fully appreciate the coastal/farm life that I have instant access too.
But I struggle somewhat with the "Biggest Marine Biologist" because I have long known that often the most pivotal workers are the ones working tirelessly on the front lines, that you never hear about. They do not have doctorates, or a series of books, nor even scientific reports, but just plain hard work.
I have a deep appreciation for the Maine Marine Patrol because of how hard their work is. They are alone, their fingers freezing off from the cold, and stopping an insane amount of shellfish and crustacean poaching. If you know how lawless some of the Maine Island communities are, a person might appreciate how brave they are from confronting marine lawbreakers.
I looked, but could not find the name of the guy, but growing up, I knew of a Marine Patrol Officer who was taking his skiff across the bay when someone on shore shot the man to death. The person got away with the homicide because how could anyone tell where the shot originated from, or who pulled the trigger. Consider this, that Marine Patrol Officer gave his LIFE trying to protect marine resources of Maine. That is pretty darn big in my opinion.
biochar might be best in the garden, in fact from what I understand about it once you amend soil with biochar it will increase productivity for generations and beyond, if you need cheap insulation you might look into shredding paper and cardboard treating it with boric acid, makes it flame and bug resistant, and stuff the voids in walls, floors and ceilings with it. there is a commercial insulation made on mass scale the same way that most anyone could do with a leaf shredder
Burra Maluca wrote:I, however, do have access to that post.
I have quoted it below.
This is not a political blog and im not thinking at how the society should behave and what people should eat.
Its strictly about me and maybe otthers that might attempt something like this.
And you are wromg in your statement that it would kill us.On the contrary,in Georgia ,where Stalin used to spend his summers in a small region ,there were more than 200 people older than 120 .
That created a myth about the water there.They toght it was the water that kept them live soo long .
But they all had one thing in common,were beekeepers and had a diet mostly of pollen and honney.
I think it was their diet not the water ,wich made them live soo long.
It seems as though you are willing to lie to us simply to attempt to prove a point.
We have no intention of wasting our time with members who behave thusly.
Any further such behaviour that is likely to result in a ban.
I would suggest that if you wish to contribute your views and opinions and experience here that you get your act in order and start to behave like an adult.
This is not the post for wich i got the message to change the pronounciation .That was an earlyer post before people started trolling my thread.
I dont worry about getting banned,big deal.
I better get banned than to loose my time in somme weird ,powerless dictatorial forum.
Been there,done that on a romanian forum where the crazy admin had fake profiles and was replying to himself in an atempt to manipulate a few weak minds to follow his views.
Dale Hodgins wrote:My friend ran a water purification business in St Catharines Ontario starting in about 1982 and ending in about 85. He sold a machine called the ozonator which had been proven to kill the AIDS virus. Based on this information, they told people that it would kill any AIDS virus that showed up in their drinking water. Various scary stories about Toronto medical waste making it into Lake Ontario were presented. I knew something about the temperature requirement for the virus to survive, but he was not into hearing that there were no viruses in the lake to begin with.
One other complication was that St. Catherine's gets its water from Lake Gibson, a much smaller lake that sits on the escarpment, well above Lake Ontario.
I can't hear the word ozone, without thinking about Russ and his magic machine. A natural salesman with no technical training or inclination. Anything that could help his cause, no matter how improbable, was included in the sales pitch.
Its used for ages to clean water and it works wonders.
I wanted one to clean the water in a reef aquarium to be crystal clear.
In order to clean the water you need an ORP meter to monitor the ozone levels wich is a sensor that shuts down the Ozone generator when a certain level is achieved.
In case that ORP meter fails,it can kill the whole reef animals( a crash).
Ozone for washing its really dangerous because you cant use an ORP meter like for cleaning drinking water or clean water.The turbidity in the water from the washing machine renders the ORP meter useless.
So its amazingly good for drinking water,but i wouldnt trust it for cleaning clothes.
Well, I don't have the best news. I accidentally ran an experiment and it didn't work. I attempted to program the timer to have the aeration fan come on twice a day for 15 minutes. In reality, I set it to come on and never turn off. So from the morning of the 12th through the morning or afternoon of the 13th it ran constantly. The pile temp dropped from 136 to 110. Shit.
Ok, well that simulated turning the pile really well and adding a lot of oxygen, we'll see how that does. So I unplugged the fan for a few days and the temperature continued to drop. 102 yesterday and 97 today. Shit.
So I plugged the fan back in and triple checked the program was set correctly this time for two rounds of 15 minutes per day.
I'm definitely getting the inkling that this system is a bit too challenging to get correct. If a day of extra aeration crashes the system, that's a bad sign (in my mind). And when it is cruising at 135 I can barely feel any heat on the surface of the metal hopper. I'm glad it has been mostly working this winter so that I could make the right decision this spring on it I leave it in or change paths. Right now it's looking like I'll change paths in the spring.
My friends at Himalayan Rocket Stoves Himalayan Rocket Stoves are using steel for the heat riser, and they have several dozen stoves that have been heavily used for 3 winters and are still in good shape. They used a high quality expensive steel that is rated for industrial use and high temperatures, but I forget which kind.
That one ran between Chicago and Minneapolis, somewhere around 2002ish??? The picture was taken at BNSF's Cicero Yard in Chicago.
I think they stopped it because the train derailed enroute, and it tied up the mainline for freight and Amtrak service. When I worked on the derail crew, the railroad always figured the cost was around $30 per second from the time the track went out of service, until it was back up and running. $30 a second does not sound like much, but sometimes it would be 8-12 hours before the mainline was running trains again.
There shear amount of money the railroads made and lost, absolutely floored this poor farm boy from Maine.
Yes, of course, but arsenic in drinking water is a serious problem, not to be trifled with. In fact, the biggest poisoning event in human history was from arsenic in groundwater. If the OP has arsenic in their drinking water, they really have to do something to make sure not to consume it. A quick search shows that reverse osmosis is a popular solution in the US.
In my experience, low tech solar distillation works, but to produce enough for drinking water for one person would require a very large area, probably larger than the whole roof of their house -- and we did this in a climate that is ideal for solar distillation (lots of sun, and cold air). If necessary for drinking water, minerals can be added back in after purifying the water.
Go fishing in the big lake with a rod and small hook,catch somme fish ,keep them alive while fishing and then release them into the pond.
Hard to do that with bluegills because they swallow the hook completely and rarely survive after you extract the hook from their stomacks.
If you have frogs in the pond ,means there is little pollution because frogs are the most sensitive to pollution because they breathe from their skin.
As it was sugested,add hiding places for the fish like big dead tree roots.
Mihai Ilie wrote:TEC ( or Pelltier module) stands for thermoelectric cooler and if you power it with electricity it will make a hot side and a cold side.
If it heated on one side and chilled on the otther side it creates electric curent and becomes a Seebeck generator or a TEG wich stands for thermo electric generator.
There are modules that are sold as TECs and TEGs with TEGs being more expensive because they are build to withstand higher temp up to 150 C while the ones made for cooling ,altough they can be used as generators perfectly,they last only up to plus 100 C temp.
They have an efficiency of just 10% and there are much better alternatives for such stove generators like the Stirling engines generators with 35% efficiency.
Now, if the energy is lost inside a house ,then you might not care about losses from poore efficiency.
This probably won't work in every area you're hoping to grow in, but if you've got only one or two big branches from one of your native trees that's throwing off too much shade, you could trim that tree. now you've got extra firewood too!