Nicole Alderman wrote:I've noticed that running ducks in an area where they poop out--and spill--a lot of their eggshells/oyster shells, there's no more buttercup. It did take a few years. Hopefully the calcium from the chickens will do the same in their yard (where the bindweed is). They haven't been interested in eating the bindweed, and so there hasn't been any change in their yard after a year of having them there. Maybe next year, though!
A calcium miner like mulberry is important, IMO. Those fungi exchanges...
For anyone that is looking there is 500 round bales of rotten hay in sperryville va looking to go somewhere you can contact firstname.lastname@example.org and I will hand over the number to the farm Thanks for looking
Some areas allow you to take truckloads of extra branches / leaves. That could build up some fertility and other nice things in the soil.
A perennial / annual-self seeding bed might work if you don't want to mess up your normal growing area. Compost - food scraps, bagged leaves from neighbors, branches, non diseased plants. Those could all help with fertility and add nutrients.
As for self seeding vegetables, flowers, herbs - I have just memorized what the newly emerged seedlings look like which works well enough.
Also Mitsuba can be a bit aggressive after flowering from what I have read - reseeds readily. I am planting some this year along with Cryptotaenia canadensis, a related North American species.
I love mullein. I add the the dried leaf to my tea if I have a scratchy throat. I add it to my earache oil. I've used the stalks in my 1st little rocket stove. It grows wildly all over here.
It is not native. The local invasive plant species organization said its not a good idea to plant.
Here is a Cornell Research Paper on ivermectin. I had a pile sit on a concrete pad for a year even after it was composted for a couple years on the farm. Found live and fat earth worms in the pile. My hot humid environment does tend to degrade the chemicals a lot faster.
I followed up with a bean sprout test and found the beans did great. no deformation.
I want to use hydrogen peroxide to prevent algae forming in a water tank we use for handwashing and watering plants. Will this damage the plants and is it still organic? We're not certified organic but not using other chemicals.
Howdy, permies! I never got any response at all to the below, and for all I know, 'Cloudpiler Hatfield' has moved on from Permies since his original post, but I just want to give a total shout-out thanks to him for the plumber's tape idea and to Permies.com in general for being so awesomely useful. The plumber's tape solution for cedar-apple rust appears to have worked, and if so, it will save me the trouble and eaten cost of having to rip out a row of perfectly good cedar trees.
You can also see in the attached photo how the cedar rust appears on the leaves below the tape (those came in before I applied it) but none on the leaves above the tape.
Lisa Brunette wrote:
Cloudpiler Hatfield wrote:Our Eastern Red Cedar (Missouri) is just about hated by everybody in my neighborhood because of the Cedar/Apple Fungus. If you grow apple trees in the conventional way (factory orchard) you cannot have cedars around because of this fungus. If, however, you grow with a diversity of species (food forest) intermediary trees buffer the apples and the fungus doesn't affect them so much. The spore zone is important and buffer trees like cherry and mulberry really help.
I have also found that if I attach a piece of plumber's tape (about four inches worth) to the top of the tree, the tree does not develop the fungus. Plumber's tape is made primarily of lead, zinc and aluminum. The rain causes the tape to slowly, ever so slowly, rust and the oxidized compound is slowly distributed over the central trunk and the top branches. Because of the nature and shape of the tree, this same "rust" gets dusted all over the rest of the tree. Result - just enough anti-fungal action to stop the Cedar/Apple fungus.
By the way, this also accounts for why this particular fungus is never found infesting cedar house siding, even though it ought to be a suitable substrate. I have put this to the test. I've made thin sheets of cedar siding with our local red cedar and inoculated it with the fungus. It grew very vigorously on the siding. Then I added a window frame (aluminum, zinc, titanium, trace lead) and voila! The fungus died and I could not get it to come back with further inoculation. Just enough of the element rust finds its way into the wood to prevent fungal growth.
I have not been able to detect any heavy metal depositing in the soil around the trees (or the house for that matter). This is a good thing, because I don't want to contaminate my soil.
The visual break that our young cedars provide is truly beautiful. Our oaks and hickories all lose their leaves in the fall and the scene become somewhat gloomy. We really don't see much by way of greeting card snow here and the landscape can look pretty gray. The cedars a bushy and green until they get about thirty feet tall. Then they thin out at the bottom branches and become a little more open. Before that time, however, if you trim and shear, an almost Christmas tree shape can be maintained for many years. Our zone 1 is bordered in lovely trees and that's a good thing here where evergreens are rare.
Also, and this is important to me also, the cedar is the center of several guilds I have set up involving vibrunum and vaccinium species. My blueberries languish everywhere else on the place except as part of a cedar guild. The same goes for my huckleberries, lingonberries and serviceberries. They'll all grow in other guilds, but not like they do in the cedar guilds.
I'm also in Missouri and read this post with great interest. We put in 9 juniper Taylors and 2 true native red cedars for the winter evergreen screen, color, and food for birds. We also have fruit trees. Our AK black apple is rust-resistant, but the Rome beauty is not, of course. I didn't realize rust could attack serviceberries, but apparently it can. I'm trying out your plumbing tape fix. So far it appears to be working! I think it even stopped the rust in its tracks, as it had already started in on the Rome beauty, but this year's new growth does not have rust, and the first fruit does not, either. I'll report back next year to see if the fix really fixed it. If the original poster quoted here is still around, I'd be interested to know if you ever have to update with new plumbing tape. Also, what is the quality of the soil where you have the cedar/blueberry guild? My cedars are in an old rock driveway, where they are doing great, but I'm not sure that will work for blueberries since they often edge wet areas in the wild.
I'd be hesitant to let sunflowers grow throughout my garden. I've heard they were allopathic. Maybe someone here knows more about that. Also, wherever I put a sunflower plant OR feeder in my yard, I get squirrels for squirrels which then go on to eat my vegetables. Not the squash, but other stuff like beans and especially tomatoes!
one of the houses i lived in growing up had a large honor system farm stand down the road. i used to get sent there all the time with a list and some $$, to get corn, carrots and some of the other things they had on offer.
just a simple list with the price of everything and a coffee can for the money.
my mom did this too, for a while, from her last place. mostly it was veggie garden overflow, but she also did jams and preserves, and some baked apple breads and other baked goods.
her front yard wasnt that large so she could see through the window most of the time when someone came up, and often there were people just around in the yard. but mostly it was untended, honor system.
these days i think you need to lock down the money box. it's one thing if someone helps themselves to some veggies, especially where you may well have given it for free if they had asked or needed.
but definitely a different thing to to dangle easy $$ to steal, at least these days, unfortunately i think the world has gotten sleezier in my lifetime.
in a wholesome rural town maybe better, maybe could do it totally honor system....
way way out there rural, and almost rural but close to a city...i think the money should be locked down.
i have often thought about, and tried once to talk some of my neighbors and friends into doing a co-op honor farm stand.
that way you could have a lot more stuff, putting together the couple of things each person is contributing.
that way it is not always dependant on one person always stocking it. each person could contribute when they want, maybe drop off only once a week.
and the person who has the best spot as far as traffic and closeness to major routes could actually host the stand. potentially also it could move, or have multiple locations.
additionally the contributing members could work out a trade/a barter rate. like you could trade your veggies for someone else's and then just dont get paid for those. either pound for pound or money rate for trade.
i also like the idea of doing it PAY WHAT YOU CAN. you could have suggested prices but also a pay what you can sign that explains if you need to, you can pay less. and also suggesting if you want to donate extra, its always welcome. in this way i think someone might take for free, but this would be acceptable. some people might appreciate what you are doing they would give an extra tip/bonus/donation
I like the idea of doing chickens in a paddock shift fashion. So when it is time to bring the chickens into a paddock, I first go in and get what I want out of the paddock. And then let the chickens in. The chickens go after the bugs and the growies. But they are going after the growies that IS their chicken food. I have now grown their chicken food instead of buying it. I also don't have to deal with harvest and storage - the chickens are doing all of that for me.
Wow -- this is an oldie-goldie thread, resurrected from the long ago past. I smiled a little bit when I saw some of the names of the people who originally posted 12 years ago.
Yes, goats eat poison ivy, Also cows and pigs. A lot of animals in the wild eat poison ivy, which is how the seeds tend to spread. A goat/pig combination is best suited to eradicate poison ivy because the goats nibble it down short to the ground or the vine, and then the pigs root out the young poison ivy plants. Starved of nutrition, poison ivy plants will eventually die. Just keep grazing them, grazing them, grazing them . . . and the plant finally gives up.
I am most comfortable in a setting where, like a family Thanksgiving dinner, topics like religion are considered taboo in polite company.
What I consider sacred is tainted by attempts at encapsulation, so to evangelise it would at best dilute it, and at worst render it meaningless.
So I don't need other people's purple. I am perfectly happy with everyone having their own secret purple, as long as it isn't pushed on me, just like I don't push mine on others.
In fact, I am comfortable with the idea that one could have their own purple, and it could be so subtle or integrated into their whole being that not only do I not notice it, they aren't even aware of it themselves.
For me, if it can be described in words, it's been dumbed down too far from its realistic gestalt to have actual meaning for me.
The brown can be discussed, dissected, poured over, dismantled and reworked. The purple is personal, and to my way of thinking, must be arrived at organically and in solitude, or it lacks sincerity and authenticity.
It is also not something one has to consciously embrace, and if the specific purple path chosen is unsuitable for specific targets, it will either never be embraced, or it will cause umbrage and a conscious rejection of that aspect, and oftentimes, of permaculture as a whole.
I think that in certain circumstances, like trying to harness the power of an established religious community to do good in their community, everything must be addressed in their idiom to communicate adequately. Not doing so is akin to pushing a flavour of purple upon someone who isn't inclined at all; the message likely won't be received well, and nothing good will be accomplished.
We are trying a new (to us) method of burying a container riddled with holes into a compost bin, putting the wormfood in the container with tiger worms. The idea is the worms can migrate through the holes into the compost and come back for food. Our control to see if this works is in one bin, there are two food containers, 1 with worms, 1 without, to see if the wormless container becomes populated. It is so intestesting to see how these wonderful little creatures work!
We have a small orchard that was here when we bought this property. Apple, pear, peach, plum, cherry trees are 6-8 years old. We've been here 3 years. Apple trees are the oldest and biggest producers but full of worms every year. I finally figured out it's codling moths. Some trees also look 'sick' - sap oozing on trunks and limbs, bark peeling. I was going to apply biodynamic tree paste on the sick trees. Now, I'm wondering if I mix in some neem oil, would it control the codling moths. Any thoughts?
I grew the same green onions for like 5 plus years, maybe 8 years - Just gave em haircuts starting in like February here in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Most I started from the root end of store-bought green onions. And they were going fine until I had to put a ton of dirt on them for a pipe trench. (Funny how my asparagus grew right thru the dirt!)
Not directly related to anything posted immediately above by myself.
I have started visiting lists of companion crops. I think that companion crops are typically either a species, or sometimes a genus. I would think that if it is a species, it gets referred to in the singular; and for a genus in the plural. Which ignores problems such as multiple subspecies.
Anyway, I am building a Perl program (who knows if it will get finished any time soon), which is based on the common English name (in ASCII) if available as a reference to hash. In the hash is a hash of the classification (from Wikipedia) including synonyms (if any). Then there are 3 lists (likes, dislikes and notes). And most entries should also have a USDA nutrition hash, which includes among other things, how much of that plant is water. This nutrition information should actually be a list of hashes, as some plants have multiple parts which can be used; and it is unlikely they all have the same composition.
There are some aspects of this I find puzzling. One particular plant, had bush beans as a like and pole beans as a dislike. Another plant dislike beets, but liked chard (chard is a beet). I have no explanation for this. One list, thought it important to note mutual help; and then only had a single entry where both sides of a "like" had benefit.
My thinking, is that this is a part of designing guilds. I don't know if any companion lists get extended to trees (although it wouldn't surprise me if black walnut was a dislike on many lists).
I am just starting this, and I am already over 2000 lines of code just setting up the data (in Perl).
There is a CPAN module (Parse::USDASR) which can parse the USDA nutrition database (at least back in 2009), and an example program has it produce a SQLite version of the database.
Now, it may be that what I should do, is to produce a SQLite version of the USDA data, and then a SQLite version of the companion (and tree?) data; so that any resulting program isn't so darned long. If I did that, I could use SQL statements to extract the subset of data I need for any particular query.
Question is, what does a person do with this? Every body and their dog look for "APP"s now, and this is just an old fashioned command line program. Are there programs or documentation out there, which go into how this should work? Explain things like why bush beans and pole beans are different?
My thinking is that this is not a Builder, but a Guilder. Well, there was a singer called Nick Gilder at Sweeney Todd a few years ago. So, I thought I would just call this program ST. Other ideas welcome.
ooo sounds pretty cold up there hablitzia tamnoides is a good perrenial green aswell as good king h.enry... many flowers are edible aswell like dianthus flowers.. corn flower..getting a valiant or fredonia grape and eating the foliage works..crosnes..camas..heavy self seeders like miners lettuce and corn salad..potatoe onion..allium ampeloprasm allium tricocum <--- hopefully spelling that right. feild garlic..turkish rocket..salad mallow..buckler leaf sorrel and french sorrel ....day lilly.. tiger lilly ..rose hips and flowers.
Hi my name is gilbert brandt and I will soon be digging russian blocking 14. I have been raising comfrey for over 10 years I will have root crowns that are 1,2,3,4,5, and 6 year root crowns and root cuttings. Call 319-283-1495 or email email@example.com thank you.
Like others have recommended, I don't suggest trying to feed wild colonies. Without a beekeeper taking their spoils, they probably have enough to make it through the winter, especially if they are in a well-insulated tree-cavity.
As for open feeding with honey, all of the warnings already echoed apply - it can spread diseases. American Foulbrood Spores can travel from one infected colony to the other through honey. Open feeding also will cause a feeding frenzy, and bees will be more keen to rob one another in this environment, which could set your multiple wild colonies against one another. Lastly, it doesn't just attract bees - but yellow jackets, ants, other wasps, etc.
Stephanie NewComer wrote:I’m currently growing 10 apple trees in my kitchen. Waiting until they’re a few feet tall before they go outside. They are currently a foot or less. Jonagold, ambrosia, golden and pink lady. Also growing 2 orange trees. Seeds came from fruit we ate and purchased from the farmers market.
FYI some fruit purchased from you run of the mill grocery store will never produce fruit because the growers treat them so others can’t grow from them.
Your little trees will grow, and some of them may be fruitful. But seed-grown trees will not be true-to-type to the parent apple. Well over 90% of apples grown from seed are really bad. Birds may still eat them, as might other animals like pigs, but rarely will you get anything close to the parent fruit.
However, occasionally you do get a winner. You mention Ambrosia. That variety was a discovered down in a ravine growing close to an orchard in British Colombia. A farmer was clearing out volunteer apple trees and other brush that was growing down in this ditch below his farm and he was just about ready to take a chain-saw to one of the trees when he reached up and picked one of the apples off the tree. It tasted fantastic. There were only 4 apples left on the tree. He picked them all, took them home, and shared them. Everyone loved them. He went back and marked the tree so that he wouldn't cut it down, and that winter he pruned it for production. The next year he had a great crop off that tree—great apples, high brix levels, very little blind wood or bitter pit . . . a great little tree.
So they grafted a ton of new trees off that mother tree and started growing them for production. With good root stock and standard growing conditions, they realized that they'd found a winner. They named it Ambrosia and started to sell graft wood to other growers under an exclusive ownership agreement. The apple grew in popularity and everything went great until one guy decided to stop paying royalties to the original family. Other People violated the growers agreement and now there are all kinds of lawsuits about protecting the Ambrosia variety. But it's one of the most profitable apple varietals in the world, and it was discovered growing wildly of to side of an orchard.
Mark Shepard is calling for American school children to plant seeds (like you have done), with the hypothesis that if millions of children planted a couple of seeds each, and those trees were allowed to grow until their fruit could be tested/tasted, America would be able to discover a bunch of new varieties.
Best of luck with your seed-grown experiment. I hope that at least one of those trees turns out to be eatable. If not, apple is a great wood for smoking BBQ, and any living tree is good for the soil that surrounds it.
Re cleaning products for toilets - in our case it stems from having incredibly hard water. All the water in our area is pumped ground water from the chalk which has huge amounts of dissolved calcium carbonate.
Periodically we need to pour some hydrochloride acid down the toilet to break up the caked on limescale. Typical “cleaning” doesn’t touch it.
As “harsh” as straight hydrochloride is I still prefer it as it is very effective and is neutralised quickly into harmless compounds.
I have both asparagus and strawberry plants to find a home for. This site suggested planting them together. https://joybileefarm.com/how-to-grow-strawberries-asparagus/ I was thinking to put them in a curvy pattern under a 2 year old Gala Apple tree, or with my BRAND NEW BLUEBERRY PATCH of 6 plants.
As I continue to my efforts to catalog a lot of general resources on food, health, and local economics I find links like this one listed in various google searches The google search was best permaculture books and I was happy to see this pop up about fourth or fifth on the results I thought folks might want to update some permie books that have come out in the 7 years since this post or others that ere not included I am no expert but I would think Toensmier's books should be on there
Dave Miller wrote:For a truly awesome garden experience, plant some black oil sunflower bird seed. It is super cheap ($25 for 50 lbs.) and there is nothing like a big patch of sunflowers in bloom. Then when they go to seed, the birds hang out in them well into the winter.
did that last year in Nov. Eating them in my apt. Learned sunflower oil seed is 95% of production. These seeds meant for sunflower oil, or bird feed. Generally the stripped ones is what we eat.