It seems to depend on the distro how well Wine works, but I've always found it to be a marginal experience.
On some distros it installs a whole suite of almost Windows programs. On some it just installs Wine and you fight with permissions and execution on a per-program basis. On others, it works without a second thought....and on some it won't work for love or money!
Better now than it used to be.
The easiest way is to keep a winx version on a separate hard drive. Hit F12 on boot (on Dell or HP, probably others too!) and choose to boot from your win drive if you don't have Grub list it in the boot menu.
Keep trying Wine, they're working on it all the time!
Glycol is yer friend! (Ethylene, polypropylene or just straight Glycerol (recovered from biodiesel operations))
Doesn't freeze when your heat source fails.
Toxic to bugs or at least a good entrapment medium.
Just a top coat of oil.... any oil, cooking, motor, vegetable, mineral, whatever your conscience allows will kill and entrap eggs and larvae, skim it every quarter and your golden!
But the peace of mind from glycol is worth the trouble of recovering from a scrapyard.....
The third picture is the way the big boys do it in sawmills across the USA, but...
It's usually a 200+ hp motor, and the flywheel is 500-800 lbs. the knives are spaced every six inches or so and changed frequently
Purchase supplies in bulk.
Grow whatever we feasibly can.
Manage leftovers and "waste" from meal prep.
Forage a bit.
Thrift/Flea/Craigslist a lot.
Don't have champagne tastes.
We were going to start canning last year but it got popular and you couldn't find supplies. If you did, they were expensive. I'll wait until people stop doing it and I can reduce my supply costs.
I'm hoping to build a solar food dryer this year.
Repurposing almost everything we can.
Basically, a lot of it is reducing how much garbage comes in, or planning for reuse & recycling. That said, we have a multitude of projects and irons in the fire that require a bit more outlay and acquisition than we previously had. As we progress, we need less.
Your idea would work great. If your RMH was in your auto shop (like mine) that would be easy to do.
Anyplace with compressed air. In my shop I have been known to use my cutting torch to heat the chimney to convince it to draw.
Let me tell you, turn that pipe cherry red and your draw starts rite away!
A lot of folks with an RMH have not got an air compressor or a cutting torch. Heck quite a few have no electricity!
For them it is alternate methods. The best of which is a 4" bypass gate.
I believe the theory is sound but the problem you will run into is the inefficiencies of each part leaving no surplus. As mentioned above stirlings can be very efficient as long as they operate at high pressure with highly conductive materials and high temperature differentials between hot and cold. The whispergen from a decade ago was a good attempt at a commercial unit it used a sealed free piston design similar to spacecraft stirlings. It had promise then the cost of solar dropped like a stone. You mentioned a 2 hp engine which with losses will produce at best 1.25hp or roughly 1 kW per hour of electricity at full temperature production. By unpressurized Stirling standards that engine would weight several hundred pounds and require continuous maintenance. For roughly 1000 dollars you can do the same with solar and have no moving parts or maintenance... Not to be discouraging but it might go some way into explaining why you dont see stirlings around much. I would try it with tegs myself. Their efficiency is not great but would be similar to a homebuilt stirling. All opinions of course but I did chase the stirling rabbit down the hole for a while.
I turned 67 this week. I’ve lived for just over a year in an over 55 community. The people here range from 55-100. The ones that seem the youngest are the most athletic, clear thinking and sociable.
I do have a lot of health problems but am still very mobile and do not take any medications. I have always done all my own housework etc. I’m painting my entire house by myself but have had to get help with small remodeling jobs because I don’t have the skills or strength to remove cabinets, do drywall or put up shelves.
I’m also giving my small yard a complete makeover from pulling up brick pavers to building raised beds and low brick walls.
I became a book writer and published author at 57, an organic gardener at 60 and a solo camper at 65. As soon as I get my house settled and finished I want to concentrate on other writing projects, continue 40 years of genealogy research and start a podcast.
I have healed 49 years of bipolar disorder without drugs (18 years mentally well next month) and as a result of writing a book on the process, became a public speaker at 58 presenting to diverse audiences including mental health professionals and nursing students.
I have taken several online tests which determine mental age and I always score age 21 and I have friends in every age category.
Even though I am so called retirement age, I don’t believe in retirement. It seems like many of the people living around me just live for pleasure - golf, relaxation and games, drinks and socializing. Of course the pandemic has curtailed a lot of that. I feel my best is yet to come as I plan to keep progressing mentally, emotionally and spiritually as well as working as I usually do to resolve my health problems without drugs.
I think the concept is interesting and worth investigation.
Remember in the past it was assumed the sun rotated around earth until someone challenged that idea.
Plenty of caravans and builders offices are made from aluminium.
I am looking forward to seeing your ideas.
Perhaps I can add some.
- Walls in modules, full height , 1/2 height.
- not too many options to start with
- can you line up a window supplier who can have windows that just bolt in?
The only problem I see with Brave is that it uses Google Chrome's rendering engine ('Blink') as well as allows access to the Chrome Web Store. If you're going to use that to get extensions for Brave, it defeats the purpose behind de-Googling. There is always Firefox, or, if one has issues with Mozilla, the Firefox forks known as PaleMoon and Waterfox might be handy. (I use Safari, as I like me my Mac 'puters. Vivaldi is my alternative browser, although that uses Chrome's Blink engine, as wells access to the Chrome Web Store for extensions.)
Directly heating air with a compost pile is also possible as Jean Pain shows. By burying a 125mm [5"] air duct in a 50 ton pile, a 12m3, uninsulated forest shed can maintain a constant temperature of 52°C for 8 months. This system used a thermo siphon effect, the hot air coming in at the ceiling of the shed, and the cool air falling to the floor and exiting through a pipe there.
It would appear to be an experimental setup only, although I don't have the book so don't know for sure if he ever went further with it. It's a very small shed, but getting it to 50ºC (125ºF) for 8 months isn't shabby.
In addition to paying for a title search wander your wallet over to the county courthouse and get a copy of every title and lien ever held on your property, it will help you understand relationships and why some people think they have "rights" on your property.
In specific look for people that may have claims on water or access right passing through your property, while a new path of access may have been created a traditional (unused) one must be specifically revoked to eliminate it.
Call the State and ask for permits that may have been pulled on the house...and other buildings....the current owner is responsible for procuring a certificate of occupancy.
In the house look for warped floors, sagging rooflines, mold,and soft floors. Federal Pacific panels and Zinsco panels are obsolete and potentially hazardous, and your insurance may not cover a building so powered, two prong outlets stopped being used in the 60's,. Look for cracks in basement walls and water traces on floors,....everything can be repaired.....and its also a bargaining point when hard money is being discussed (less so in this market where everyone is trying to escape the coast).
Insurance? Let it be known your shopping and don't commit until you have a broad cross section of offers. My best has come from Farm Bureau....whom were the only ones interested in providing flood insurance without several thousand being spent for a "survey" just to determine how badly they were going to stick me!
I have found building 5hp briggs race engines and converting mower engine that ethanol is a great fuel. Ethanol has extra oxogen in it and aid in combustion. It is simple for me to dyno a standard flathead 5hp briggs at 10hp running on ethanol. As stated before the volume of fuel needs to be about 1/3 more because of the less energy. I have a selection of jets I predrilled so while tuning I can quickly get it set up. Unlike gasoline ethanol can be ran slightly rich and still hold a good tune. Good quality silicone fuel lines will last many years. The best thing to do is run it out of fuel when shutting it down. I use 2 different gas caps on the fuel tank. One is sealed with JB and the ether is left vented. When not using the engine I just leave the JB sealed cap on the tank. This keeps the water out of the fuel. Water is the most damaging while mixed with ethanol. It become acidic and causes corrosion in the carb because of the different type of metals used. Ethanol will pull heat from your engine if jetted right will run much cooler. On days below 50 deg it may need a shot of gasoline to get it to fire up, because the ethanol may not vaporize in the venturi of the carb. The oil in these engine I build never seems to get black. The ethanol burns nice and clean. Have fun with it.
The hack, slash and dig (the roots) is what worked here also. Keep in mind, even a missed leaf (let alone a cut off vine or stem) will happily root, even months later. Everything cut/dug must be burned.
I did discover that the cut vines happily form easily managed "balls" when raked into small piles. Using the rake, "rolling" the collected piles, formed into natural bundles - and like velcro, they collect their friends along the way. These mat like bundles are easily transported to the burn pile.
Fumes are not good, you are right about that.
I think often the fumes are less if the burn in clean.
But yeah, well ventilated is often required.
Electric is by far the cleanest/fumeless way to cook for sure, but electricity is not always available. (off-grid, camping, emergency)
Not entirely sure, but I think for electric emergency cooking 12v rice cookers are a good option. Not suitable to boil potatoes and stuff but suitable for rice, bulgur etc. Not optimal, but a emergency never is.
I have been an absentee landlord and it was an unmitigated disaster. These days I own a duplex in a suburban neighborhood. I live in one apartment and rent out the other. I have learned a few things along the way that have helped be make it all work out.
The banks and insurance companies view my arrangement as home ownership. So, I get the homeowner mortgage and insurance rates. That saves me some money. Up to three units will be viewed this way as long as you are living in one of them.
When I show the apartment to prospective tenants I walk them out the back door and tell them, "that maple tree and the one by my back door don't produce anything to eat, everything else does (I have about 50 fruit bearing trees and shrubs in the back yard). I grow more than I can eat, and I share ." So, now they are thinking I'm a really great guy. Before they leave I give them the 3 page application and tell them, "I always take applications and I always check references. But, I can find out what I need to without spending a lot of money. So, don't worry about that application fee." This gives bad tennants a means of walking away without any embarrasing information coming out. The application specifically asks about evictions. This process is going on while I am still painting the apartment. So, there will be a time lag. Those that are being evicted need to move before the apartment will be ready. So, this doesn't work for them. Also, bad tenants don't want to live next door to the landlord.
When I get the application back I really do check references. I talk to the current landlord and employer and where I live criminal records are easy to find online. So, I look at that also. Any traffic ticket will show up with an address. So, I can see if this matches the address they gave me.
It all boils down to two simple rules:
1) Be a hard ass when you're picking tenants.
2) Be a good neighbor afterwards.
Just to put some numbers on this, liability insurance usually isn't that bad. I had a small wilderness guide service for a while where we took people, including kids, into some fairly gnarly terrain overnight. There were requirements on the guides in regards to our certification levels and we had to show our operating plans, which the national park service wanted anyway to grant a permit. But I think we were paying ~$1,100 a year. So yeah, it's money, but I can't imagine a simple liability policy for a farm being much more, provided you're following safe practices which you should be anyway. Accidents aren't what happen to other people, etc.
Health insurance, for those of us in the USA, is the real kicker. Maybe more than anything else I'd like to see a public health care option in the USA.
I talk to worms, too. Mostly when I accidentally dig them up and feel the need to apologize. When my two boys find an especially wriggly guy, they call him a "muscle worm."
We also talk to frogs, toads, lizards and skinks. And honeybees.
There's a phoebe who's fledged a few broods from a nest she made on my front porch. Using the front door is off limits when she's being the good mama she is. But if I forget and startle her, I apologize to her as well.
I scream when I see a snake, even harmless ones. But I don't think that counts as talking to them. ;-)
One thing folks may not have thought of: my Dad was a student/then professsor when Caltech was young. I've given lots of papers, photos, etc. to the school's archives. I've also sold some pieces to historical societies, for not much money. (A hand-made book about a neighborhood, for example, someone took hours making it.)
If the family member was important in their field or early, the letters, etc. may be wanted by a specialty museum. If your family has lived in Whatdoyacallit County for 100+ years, the county historical society may be interested, or the state. They probably have no budget to buy such things, but it's an email you can cut/paste from the email to the family of what's left. If they lived in the same house for 50 years, the local library may want papers...
Douglas Alpenstock wrote:John, just curious, which make and model of laptop do you have? I regularly see well-built 32-bit business laptops that can teach a thing or two to the disposable consumer stuff out there. They just need a little TLC.
BTW, I generally settle on Mint "MATE" edition. For very old laptops, Lubuntu 32-bit or ZorinOS Lite runs very nicely.
Thanks for the extra OS distro recommendations, Douglas. The point well made from you and Bill H. about Cloud/internet storage also....thanks for advice.
Specs on the laptop:
Gateway NV53, model #MS2285
Processor: AMD Athlon II X2 M300
15.6" HD LED LCD
CPU Speed: 2 GHz
Hard Drive: 500 GB
RAM: 4 GB
Drives: DVD Supermulti DL drive
Multicard reader, 4 USB, 1 HDMI
Battery: AS09A51 Li-ion 10.8V 4400 MAh 48 Wh
Dimensions: 14.75" x 10" x 1.5"
Screen Size: 15.5"
Wireless: WLAN Atheros AR5B93
Operating System: Windows (probably came with WinXP?..... and we upgraded to Win7)
Added Edit: Memory served me well on the MacPlus price....from Wiki: ""The Macintosh Plus computer is the third model in the Macintosh line, introduced on January 16, 1986, two years after the original Macintosh and a little more than a year after the Macintosh 512K, with a price tag of US$2599."
Artie Scott wrote:So, I don’t feed any more bread to the chickens. Anyone else feed bread to their chickens?
Mine never got bread, but they ate dog food for years, and did spectacularly well. Concrete eggshells and chickens living past 11 years old.
Then I had to switch brands, and several promptly dropped dead (no symptoms, just came up dead). Had a suspicion it might be the soybean meal (some in the new, none in the old). Didn't seem to affect the roosters, tho, only the hens. And most were fairly old chickens.
Just found this forum, saw the clickbait-ish title and, even tho' it is 2 years later, had to add my $.02 worth. As a textile person, may I draw your attention to "faggoting", an embroidery stitch which has been PC'ed to ladder stitch. Also as a history buff, may I point out that WWI British tanks carried "bundles of sticks" so they could use them to cross ditches.
All interesting trivia bits aside, I would like to thank all the staff who make this site possible. May your holiday season be happy, merry, healthy and full of meaning and love.
Preamble: I have been playing for a while. And I have picked up a lot of neglected guitars from guys who have given up. When I run the instrument through its paces, to know what I'm buying, the guy always says the exact same thing: "Well, I guess it's not the guitar." I honestly feel kinda bad about that. Though if it's a decent instrument, they are glad that it will be cared for, appreciated, and played.
Back to the OP: I think the first barrier is *believing* that you can play. That you can make pleasant, melodic sounds as you start to learn. To that end, I recommend this simple hack: from the standard tuning, drop the first (bottom) string and the sixth (top) string by one full note -- from E to D and D. All of a sudden, any strum is a beautiful, resonant chord. And you can play and experiment up and down the neck to find other beautiful chords. This works for kids and adults.
Once you believe you can play, you may just have the motivation to move forward and master the instrument.
A while back I taught my dog to hunt rats, for a few weeks I would let her under the house. She killed and ate quite a few, but now I do not think they even come around anymore because she is always hunting..
There is another way to go about it if one can't stand the taste, or is having a hard time being consistent in eating it. My husband and I can't stand the taste of liver, but we eat it regularly for tooth health in particular. We eat it raw, frozen, cut into small chunks that you can swallow. It's the frozen liver pill method. Works great that way.
I tried other methods before that, including cooking it really well with lots of garlicky breading. It still tastes like liver. We were finally able to stick to eating it when we did it in frozen chunks. We keep little containers of the chunks in the freezer, and break a few free each day.
This is a picture from the website mentioned above. I suppose you could also make cooked pills, but we do the raw thing because we believe there are more health benefits.
r ranson wrote:Hmmm... I don't have that problem. When I click on the page number, it takes me to that page. But, I don't use "default view" or "recent topics" to view the main page. So it could be something in that.
But, this might help.
Go to "my profile"
Pie Only Preferences
- Keep track of threads read on a thread by thread basis
- Show, in a thread, how far you have viewed in the past
- Navigate to the last post you have viewed
Ok, I changed those settings the other day and it gives me that green line thingie I've heard so much about. No chance to test it until just now when I clicked on the last page of the Corona Virus Memes thread and it took me to the first page. Just tried it again and it repeated the error. Third time and it took me to the last page. One of those first two clicks may have been on the page next to the last poster's name instead of the last page number. Shouldn't've mattered either way but I put an arrow next to the two places I think I clicked to get the error.
Around where I am (Canadian Shield, Frontenac, Ontario), beavers are a permanent inhabitant. If somewhere is a topographically and hydrologically attractive place for a beaver pond, one will be built there. If that specific place is highly important to you, you can destroy the dam and/or trap those specific beavers. However, 2-year old beavers leave their parents' dams and find new places to set up residence, so if your place is attractive, and you make it vacant, within a year or two, new beavers will move in.
The main challenge with beavers I find is their "greediness" to keep on increasing the level of their dams. Especially in spring and fall, they are attracted to the sound of running water over their dams, and plug any holes and/or build the dam higher to retain more and more water. That's why you sometimes find monstrous dams with an 8' height difference. Their patience is going to be bigger than yours, so if you make a breach in a dam, you may succeed in lowering the water level a bit, but in one night or two, beavers will fix it (if not the same day), usually stronger than before.
You will find all sorts of "beaver baffler" type solutions available for sale, or instructions for self-build instructions available on the internet. The idea is you put in a drain and somehow mask the drain inlet from the beavers.
In our experience, they don't work for long. Beavers are not smart, but they have tremendous work ethic and their focus on finding running water will eventually let them win. They will clog the inlet, and continue "improving" the clog over weeks so that it's useless for its intended purpose.
Our solution, on the handful of ponds we care about capping the level (would flood road, etc.) is as follows.
Dig a trench through the dam once
Insert a 6-8" diameter culvert pipe, or whatever you have. Roughly anchor it in place sticking out about a foot into the pond.
Cap the top end with a pot lid, piece of plastic, metal, whatever closes it
Let the beavers fix the breach, sealing in the (closed) culvert
Whenever the water is too high, you come by in the morning and open the cap
Let it drain all day, but you come by in the evening and close it again
Beavers will come in the night and find nothing to plug.
Repeat as necessary
This works well when you're in residence, since you're using beaver psychology against them. They do the work of sealing in your culvert, but there's no running water at nighttime so they don't plug your drain -- you plug it, and water pressure holds your plug in. You can now have more patience than the beavers, in terms of how many days you open it up. They may put in a stick or two during the day, but won't clog things up badly. And overnight they may put a bit of mud around the culvert end, but nothing one pass of a spade won't fix. Of course, there's a bit more labour for you, but the opening and capping of the pipe is a matter of seconds, while cleaning out a beaver (non)baffler thoroughly clogged with branches and mud can be a 1/2 day job.
None of this addresses their vegetation-changing habits of course, covered elsewhere in this thread. In our area, that's part of the natural progression, we don't worry about that. This is about preserving roads, etc. from creeping flooding by beaver ponds growing year after year.
What is the difference between long term fermentation and regular sourdough? If I keep some sourdough going all the time is this a long ferment?
As far as I've seen in my research, with long-ferment you let it sit up to 5 days, whereas most regular recipes I've followed the dough sits at most 48 hours, often times even shorter. I guess at some point there will be nothing left for the yeast and bacteria to eat, so you wouldn't want it to sit out too long.
I am also not celiac so this isn't an issue for me, but it was an intriguing thought! I do notice a pattern with breads that give me trouble and the ones that don't...
I have friends who are celiac. I'd love to play around with a long-ferment gluten free recipe!
There's a thread currently going around about volkornbrot... boy would that be fun to try making. There is a bakery in Taos, NM that makes it, so delicious! I have not seen anywhere here in the Ozarks that makes it so far...
I don't have a list of trees but could you instead find a way to shade the trunks at that time of year? Maybe a small evergreen shrub that keeps the sun off? Or maybe it's not just the sun that's the problem, it's also the early sap flow. But maybe shade around the plant would slow down it's internal clock in the spring.