I was picking catapillars out of my cabbage/broccoli.
Lookd over and a wasp was doing the same thing.
Going down between the leaves of cabbage and hunting them.
I encourage wasps and rarely have damage to my brocolli and my cabbage looks great.
It's red cabbage though,.. and I think that does better against the worms.
Hank Fletcher wrote: I knew I wanted to stay as much on pavement as much as possible and stay off the sidewalk.
My suggestion is that you find a dirt path or grass to run on. Pavement is hard and will wreck your knees, and do so even faster if you're barefoot.
At first the irregularities, pebbles, etc., will bother you, but one's feet become accustomed to that. I can walk over gravel and other surfaces on which other people cannot walk at all.
The hard paved surfaces are eroding your knees, I'm quite sure.
It kills your knees/hips/back because you are landing on the wrong part of the foot. Do some research on the right way to run/run barefoot and you could save yourself a ton of time/money/pain thanks to it.
When you land on the heel you send 4-5 times the body weight all the way up through the leg into the spine. First the force has to get through your ankle, then your knee, then your hip, before it hits the spine. Stop landing each foot on the heel and instead start landing each step on the ball of the foot. This lets your foot act as a shock absorber and removes the brunt force of the fall before it gets the chance to work its way up your body. I notice a big difference between landing on the heel and the ball of foot. Right now I am trying to convert myself in band marching mode. Raise the knee at the outset of the step. This pretty much forces me to land with the ball of the foot and makes for a much softer landing which I do not notice unlike when I land on the heel and feel it come up through the body. The difference is incredible. I was doing it both walking and running this morning while I was out for my half mile barefoot walk/run on pavement.
Plus, as an added benefit right now most of the ground is covered in corn snow so I want nothing to do with trying to walk on that stuff. I had three days last week walking on it and its not fun. I would much rather walk on gravel than this darn corn snow. Can't wait until we get some fresh snow and then I'll go play in it but until we get a decent snowfall I will definitely stick to the pavement.
COMFREY POULTICE - testimonial. This spring while working outside I cracked a rib (I think) when straining to do some work while simultaneously squatting, twisting my torso and reaching backwards deep into a little mini chicken coop, I heard and felt a pop-crunch with a sharp pain in my side just under the boob. It took my breath away so I sat and relaxed and assessed the damage. Within a minute the pain had subsided to just a minor ache so I went back to work being very careful of body mechanics and keeping my torso stretched up as much as possible. I thought it was maybe a muscle or tendon strain but by that evening it felt a little achey and sharp pain if I inhaled too deeply, lifted anything weighing over 6 oz, sneeze or cough, reaching... so I self-diagnosed a cracked rib, googled symptoms and treatment, took a couple ibuprofen and went to bed :) These days doctors don't wrap/bind the ribcage but instead, recommend deep breathing to maintain lung health while recovering (prognose 4-6 weeks). I decided the pain was not severe enough to be a displaced fracture so on Day 2 when it was more sore and sharper pain when breathing deeply, I prepared a large comfrey poultice (fresh out of the garden), made a cloth wrap around the rib cage, and wore it all day while moving around, freshened the poultice and wore it all night. Day 3 was slightly better so I repeated the poultice that day and night. Day 4 I felt MUCH better (actually only 2 days with the poultices). Did poultices one more day and then it felt 80% better so I resumed normal activities, being careful of course. It probably took one full week to recover to the point that I forgot about it until I overdid something like shoveling mulch or lifting a bag of flour, tehe.
I'm like Casie's mom. No insurance and grew up in an era when we didn't rush to the doctor for every little thing. And I figure that, unless I'm in severe pain I'll give my body a chance to heal itself. So I'm really grateful for the helpful advice offered here. I agree with Joshua that we could do a much better job of self-healing if we had the right diet but it's so complex and our systems are bombarded with so many chemicals that it seems impossible. I've been researching pain relief for various muscle aches and pains in order to break my dependence on NSAIDs so I'm going to try the recommendations here.
If you have access to a wood lot then heating with firewood is the cheapest source of heat going. In the past I have cut wood with a chainsaw and split it with a hydraulic splitter. Not the cheapest way to go but the easiest. Still cheaper than fossil fuels but I have begun exploring using an ax to cut, buck and split my wood. Its not easy or fast but instead of investing $1000 on a chainsaw and $2500 on a splitter and fuel and lube all you need is a $10 antique ax head , a $15 store bought handle , $15 axe file and a $10 sharpening stone. $50 and you have a lifetime of firewood and good physical exercise. My favourite youtuber Skillcult has great vids on cutting wood with just an axe and a cordwood chalenge that I am doing.
Put a sweater on, woolen socks and a tuque! And why not curl up under blanket while on couch? What ever your heat source, do you need so damn much of it? I keep my house in low 40's F in winter. A block of firewood not burnt is a block of firewood less you have to cut for next year.
When shopping for a new wood stove look for dealers that sell refurbished stoves. I bought a nearly brand new refurb stove for $700 last year that would have cost over $2800 new.
Other frugal tips is burn your old soup bones in the fire for extra minerals in your garden (you are applying your wood ash to the garden right???). Of course seed saving.
Check local butchers for pigs feet. You can get them for free or nearly free. I make awesome pigs feet and bean soup for pennies a meal.
We have also been using the wood pellets for our cats for years now. For composting we are pretty lazy so all year long we pile it in a three sided bin made of pallets and then when it is time to plant our spring garden we shovel off the top half into another such bin and use the significantly older stuff below. By that stage it is at least six months old and has an almost pleasant earthy smell. I doubt it adds much in the way of nitrogen to our garden, but with our heavy clay soil we have noticed that each year are garden soil ends up being a bit looser without us having to till much more than the top three or four inches.
Hi! I love this topic!! I was beginning to use a homemade detergent mix of 1/2 washing soda to 1/2 kirk's castile soap, blended together in the food processor. I'm really glad that I learned that I don't necessarily need the soap.
On a blog I read that:
"Vinegar and soap (vs detergent) cannot be used together. Vinegar is acidic, soap is basic (alkaline) and the two tend to cancel each other out. This is a common error in homemade cleaning products. If there is a little more vinegar than soap, then the vinegar is doing the cleaning. If there is more soap than vinegar, then the soap is doing the cleaning. I see the combination of soap and vinegar (and even vinegar and baking soda) and they are NOT chemically compatible."
of course I have no idea, but some recommend using a downy ball filled with vinegar, so that the vinegar is released during the rinse cycle, and doesn't interfere with the washing soda. just wanted to put that out there.
anyway, for washing clothes with just herbs and vinegar....I LOVE it! soapwart is especially intriguing. on this amazing website called www.mum.org (http://www.mum.org/pastgerm.htm), I found the following tidbit:
"My grandmother knew a lot about herbs from her mother and taught me a lot (we used to make shampoo from soapwort, and it was the best to whiten old linen; I wonder if textile museums know that?)"
When I looked for more information about using soapwort online, everyone said that it had to be boiled in water (I assumed this was required to release the saponins), but I see from the experiences shared here that boiling the herbs in water is not truly necessary.
What I would like to know, is: is it important to soak the herbs in the water and vinegar for a long time before using it? if so, how long do you let the herbs soak? in the case where you are extracting the sock and storing it in a jar of vinegar, do you simply take the sock out of the jar and put it in a vat of water and get to washing straight away? or do you pour the jar of herbed vinegar in as well?
In West Africa, beans are ground into flour. Then mixed with water, spices, and wood Ash. The mixture is spooned into banana leaves and folded to cap. The leaves are placed in a pot with small water and steamed for an hour. A lot of foods have toxins before cooking: rice, plantain, casava, nuts, some fish, and even corn can be fatal. The most interesting secret to cooking beans was the addition of wood Ash. Also known as "ken-wah", the wood Ash is added to foods to remove toxins, speed cooking times, and increase digestion (eliminating gas). Each tribal kitchen has a secret wood Ash recipe. People walk miles just to purchase a specific ken-wah from a specific kitchen. When I added ken-wah to pot of beans: I could cook them in twenty minutes with no soaking. All natural been-o from one of the most hostile climates on the planet.
I just bought the DVD package. I think Doug Simons does a good job and I learned a lot already.
I am looking forward to experimenting with this, but early on, he says the horsetail that we should be using is Equisetum hyemale. This is commonly known as rough horsetail, scouring rush, scouringrush horsetail. There is an accompanying PDF that verifies this and says "important distinguishing feature is that it has a single upright stem".
The commercially available stuff all seems to be equisetum arvense, field horsetail or common horsetail. This form seems to be more prevalent in the northeast (where I am). Does anyone know if they are equivalent for dental purposes?
I watched the first 60 of 80 minutes online so far and there is an additional Q&A audio file that I didn't yet get to, so perhaps this is addressed later, but Doug seemed insistent that it should be a certain kind of horsetail, and hyemale is what he was recommending.
My plan of reusing greywater is to reduce new water consumption, energy to pump from the well, and trips to carry outdoors. Greywater systems not allowed here, and plenty of rain for the plants, indoor water is carried out, so reducing this is important, especially in the long winter and cold seasons of New England.
Here it is. I went into the trunk of the car, looking for a tool , and there it was.
A match will be lit, to burn off the stray hairs. Then we'll see if Lloyd likes playing with it. He fell out of an upper storey window yesterday. He knocked the screen out and probably landed on some bushes. Completely unharmed. He hid until someone came home at 8 p.m., then he started meowing.
mary jayne richmond wrote:Todd, thanks for sharing this,.. this looks very doable
It is That's why I wanted to show this. I think some people may be afraid to get started or not know how. For a couple hours work, including time to load the mulch, this will be a productive garden next year in an area that was just quack infested lawn.
Michael Cox wrote:I think that people also underestimate how clean you can get clothes with just water alone.
Yes, when water is very clean, it will absorb many things. The rainwater falling on Vancouver Island is quite clean. Before it comes through our municipal lines, lime is added in order to reach a neutral pH. Acidic rainwater will eat the scale off pipes and it will destroy concrete over time.
I had a small tree at the farm that I cut all the branches off, leaving 6 inch stubs. Clothing hung there for a couple weeks of rain, came quite clean. I just gave it a good "spider shake" before putting it on.
Deb, your post made me laugh. "I blinked and it went ugly."! Oh the story of my life.
Doubts and panic I think are just normal. I moved to Africa, in the third world. I have epic panic attacks! My friend calls that voice of doubt the "itty bitty sh*tty committee" in her head. Just shut it down and do the next thing on the list.
Gilbert; Bury your barrel with the bottom cut out, that way you will get ground temps and humidity. Two barrels welded together , open at the bottom, buried in the shade preferably with a roof . I just cover mine with an old stop sign. Mine is 3 barrels deep, so I lower stuff down in with a styrofoam cooler . I use mine as a cheese cave although I do store potato's there as well. A three tier metal fruit basket works good also.
My vinegars don't always form traditional looking mothers, which are like a lump of gelatin floating on the top of the jar. Sometimes, it's just a scum along the sides of the jar. Sometimes it's just a delicate scum on the surface.
If it tastes like vinegar, and smells like vinegar, then I'm going to use it like vinegar.
McMaster, Cambridge Wire Cloth, and Darby Wire Cloth are all fine screen sources if you want a 100-foot roll. We offer type 304, 12-mesh, plain-weave stainless screen in 2-by-2 foot squares from both our website (http://www.geopathfinder.com/Solar-Food-Drying.html , for the cheapest price) and from several E-Bay listings. I've been told that our price is about 1/3 of what could otherwise be found for small quantities. We sell the 2 foot square size to match the 4-foot by 100-foot rolls of screen we buy, and to match the 2-by-2 foot screens used in our radiant solar dryer design. Since 1982 we've been experimenting with various designs, screens, collectors, and mesh sizes to find what works the best in our humid, 45 degree latitude, half-time-cloudy location, but which can be modified to work for many different crops at higher/lower latitudes, altitudes, and temperature.
mary jayne richmond wrote:I have a question for all the no-poo ers out there, can i mix up my baking soda and leave for a week at a time, or do i need to mix it each time i use it??
I haven't used baking soda on my hair in years--I've been water only for about 6 years now, and I much prefer it. When I first went no poo, however, I mixed it each time. I kept a plastic container full of soda on my bathtub, and a plastic cup to mix it in. While in the shower, I would shake out my soda into my cup, fill it with a little water from the shower and use. It really took no longer than using shampoo. I would then rinse out the cup and fill it with a little vinegar (also on my bathtub) and water, and pour that on my head.
I still very occasionally do a vinegar rinse on my hair now. Maybe a couple times a year.
Hi Tobias, once you have the cider just put it in a jug that has a small enough mouth on it to fit an airlock on and add some yeast to the cider leave it for a couple of months and the add your mother to the hard cider you,ve made
mary jayne richmond wrote:Henry, so i could put the cloudy vinegar back in with a new batch of hard cider and it would break the pectin down? would the vinegar stop the hard cider progress? would i need to add some sugar to help it ferment farther? we just started a new batch of hard cider about 2 weeks ago
Yes it should work. The vinegar should not stop the fermentation if the ph is not too low. You will be introducing alot of acetobacteria to the cider so instead of potentially ruining a larger amount of cider (which you might want to drink?) you could add juice to a smaller batch with the pectin.
We once bottled alot of cider once (about 2000L) that still had pectin present (which was not obvious at the time, we didnt realise until we had some complaints) after about 6 months in the bottle it broke down as the residual sugars had fermented inside the bottle. As the residual sugar was a much smaller amount it took alot longer.
Alternatively you could buy pectin enzymes (pectinase) to break it down, it is not very expensive and useful to have if you are planning on heat pasteurising apple juice. Before we added this to the juice some bottles would set in the pasteuriser and we would pour it into a tank and ferment it to (hard) cider to get rid of the pectin and save the juice from being thrown away.
I'd start over, unless yoy have emotional attachment to the individual chickens you currently have. I moved with chickens and it was a pain, mostly due to not having time to move in/unpack because I was busy doing chicken things.
Ghislaine (and anyone else), I've got a pretty great no-refined-sugar, gluten free almond cake recipe too. I like to pipe a little fruit into the middles while still warm and top with berry cream cheese frosting. It makes lovely cupcakes.
Thomas Partridge wrote:The issue with using another grain is that we don't use any other grains. We only use the wheat to make flour so instead of scrapping the wheat/potato plan I might just see if I can talk my wife into trying another grain to make flour with that would work better with potatoes. Perhaps Amaranth since that would probably be ok with the potatoes being hilled.
You could grow the wheat in 4'x4' squares and seed so the plants are only about 2" apart (intensive planting) then you could intersperse squares of potatoes with the wheat squares, that would give you more production per square foot of ground and allow you to properly hill the potatoes with out harming the wheat.
I have taken to growing emmer and einkorn wheats which have less gluten production than the modern wheats (most of the newest wheat varieties are GMO and I refuse to grow them) I grow the 2 row barley and rye for fermenting.