Kyle Noe wrote:Hey Paul, the plan you have for the boot camp is to send another invite in early Feb for a March arrival?
I had to pass again on the February arrival deadline and I'd love to know what you see in your crystal ball.
Yes, that is the plan. One of the incoming people has already said that they cannot be here for more than two weeks. At the same time, we will have at least one more spot available - so that' 2. Plus, we are exploring having two bootcamps, so we might be able to bring in a total of six new people on the next round - but no guarantees. It really depends on a lot of things over the next month.
Maybe you don't talk about the same species? If I understood well the Sepp Holzer grain for BB20 is a rye, not a wheat ...
I saw a short video of someone visiting Krameterhof in which Sepp's son showed a small field of grain and told a little about it in German (with subtitling). About halfway in this video:
Bryant Redhawk, How is your osage orange hedge growing? You were planting 5 years ago, how tall has it grown? Did you water it? I'm in Western Oklahoma, do I need to water osage orange? We are supposed to get 20" inches or rain a year, but not this year.
I don't know about you, but I know when I was a beginning gardener I had this notion that inputs were bad. But the more I learn about people who do it on larger scales, the more I realize there are all sorts of inputs, and it's normal. It doesn't have to be toxic gick kind of inputs, and it can even come from your own place if you're lucky enough, but I think it's fair to say that there's nothing wrong with bringing in stuff from outside, especially if you're removing it from the waste stream. I wish I had realized that years earlier than I did, I definitely would have had better soil and better outcomes.
Ok the reason I was looking for opportunities fo extra was that experimental livestock usage is a passion. I love the Sepp Holzer quote if your plan doesn’t involve pigs you need a new plan.(paraphrased of course).
Trace Oswald wrote:
I agree that this thread will probably not change the minds of people in either camp. This discussion has been going on through the ages, and probably always will. As for me, I'm pretty firmly planted in camp 2. Myself and my brothers came from pretty much nothing. We weren't raised in a family that encouraged college, and only one of four of us attended. My parents divorced when we were young children. No one in my family taught us about investing or saving, because they had no money to invest or save. In spite of that, and the fact that we chose different paths to get there, all of us have a very good standard of living and are what I would call successful. All of us have some things in common. We all worked hard, most of the time more than one job. None of us have $1200 cell phones or drive expensive cars. All of us live within our means and have some money put away. All of us own houses. One big difference I see between my brothers and I and a lot of people is that, for whatever reason, we never saw people that had more than we did as somehow having stolen from us or as owing us anything. I will never understand the point of view that because someone else is successful or has money, they somehow owe people that have less. I believe in sharing, and I believe people that have more can and should people that have less. I also believe it should be voluntary, and the people receiving should feel gratitude, not entitlement. I have 80 acres of land now. Lots of people have none. It took me until a couple years ago to get that land and I'm in the second half of my 50's. I don't feel any obligation whatsoever to people that don't have land because I scrimped and saved and worked my ass off to get mine.
I grew up for the first 8 years in a single wide and then my parents worked up to buy a house in a better area and we were firmly middle class then. None of us were encouraged to go to college either. I'm the only one that did. Two of my siblings are just a mess. The other one looks like she's living the high life but they're always teetering on the edge of bankruptcy. I, however, live within my means. No one understands that, telling me to just go buy a new car, etc.
ANYWAY, I was going to comment to just say that I do sort of agree with both camps. My husband and I are hard working but everyone is well aware of the good old boy network happening here in WY. I'm sure it's elsewhere as well but being small town it's really bad here. It doesn't matter what you've done and how smart you are, it depends on who you know. That's how you get the good jobs. So on that end, it doesn't matter how good my husband and I are, we will never rise up that particularly much here. Those that have will continue to have, whether they deserve to have it or not.
I think, perhaps that this thread is almost completely missing the physics of the PAHS that is described in Hait's book.
Specifically, the "deep earth" temperature isn't constant, and can be altered (by things we do) for an annual effect. Most of the examples in the book are showing how to warm up enough mass under the umbrella to work with the slow thermal migration and create a long-term/annual temperature that is higher than the lower temps in the winter, but the concepts should still be sound and equally apply to doing the opposite.
For example, if one follows the "coolth" design plan, it encourages heat to escape during the colder months, and thereby cooling the same thermal mass under the umbrella that was previously being warmed for annual storage, and the overall effect, is that all that earth that you're worrying about warming the freezer from below (and on the sides if it's highly bermed), are actually the "coolth" storage for the year, and needs to be thermally coupled with the cold winter air as often as possible, so it can store up the "coolth" enough to last until the next winter.
The reason for angling the cooling tubes up, is to allow them to work opposite of what they'd do for a warmth storage system, and do so passively.
The thermal mass is NOT the enemy, it is the engine that should drive this luxury sports car in grand style!
You probably need to have a huge amount of air/heat flow through there in winter, and in the summer, the vents can probably be reduced in flow, just to provide any minimum ventilation, so as to prevent suffocation or stagnation, but the real work is the freezing the thermal mass (all of it) under the umbrella, and if it won't last all year, then you needed either more thermal mass, or colder winter temperatures, or greater winter heat exchange.
I'd like to add, even in a true PAHS home, it's not expected to reach its stable temperature passively for about 5 years, and prior to that, it will probably be somewhat cold in the winters. The difference is with a home, the occupants will often speed that process up, by adding heat of a "non-passive" means, to improve their creature comforts and survivability, which is harder and/or more expensive to do with a freezer design. I don't know if the 5-year wait to get it to store ice cream properly, is worth it to many folks?
In the short-term, it can at least start out as seasonal storage, but probably won't even start to be useful as a freezer, even for seasonal use in the first winter, unless it's a pretty cold one, and year-by-year, the temps should creep downward, and stabilize after about 5 years. The only way I can think of, to quicken this process, is to massively increase the winter air-flow and thus the winter thermal exchange/exhaust - kind of the opposite of running the cast-iron stove in the winters to stay warm for a few years, until the building is storing enough heat to remain comfortable without it - but much like not running the cast-iron stove in the summer as much as possible to avoid unwanted heating, you wouldn't want to run your really big vents to your freezer in the summer either. Presumably, after 5 years or so, you won't even need to run larger vents in the winter either?
I like to mix a tablespoon of edible diatomaceous earth in a spray bottle with Everclear and spray my legs down with it if I feel an itch.
It will kill those little critters really quickly and the itch vanishes! Then if my legs feel dry, I rub coconut oil on them.
Or if you have a bottle of rubbing alcohol, it helps with the itch as well but not as effective.
Indeed, i find it impossible to identify with those, whose only goal in life is to become upper middle class.....or middle class for that matter. I am speaking of sociological status rather than economic. To clarify, I don't really care about what social status a person is, but to have social status as a goal confounds me. To me, life goals should be somewhat more substantial.
Many people have had one or two great years with Stropharia. The trick is finding out what you can maintain for cultivation. Most people figure out a combo of some species to forage, some to buy, and some to cultivate. This depends mainly on availability in each case. If you can't get chips, it's going to be hard. Some of the companies are running a scam, where they say, if you donate to us, you can increase your odds of getting what you want. They claim it's free for the advertising, but it isn't really free. I've had better luck with smaller companies than Chip Drop, which advertises free chips, but in my experience, rarely delivers. With the one man or family operations, I get much better cooperation and results. And it's actually free. Not fake free.
Wood ear is called that because it grows on wood, not soil. So, definitely not that. Some random cup fungi. It doesn't have anything that makes it particularly distinct. It's not a bright color, and you haven't mentioned that it smells like anything special. Lacking those, I'd be wary of eating anything that was ID'd over the internet. If you do a spore print and consult a few guide books, or may be able to find out what it is.
Hey all, I won a copy of this book and just got it in the mail yesterday. I'm excited to read it. As a high school science teacher, you better believe that a book with a provocative title/content is going to end up in my classroom, but first I am going to read it.
In full disclosure, I don't think that I will join the humanure club, but I am hoping to get ideas, perhaps start with manure from my wife's team of huskies. Right now I dump it down woodchuck holes (fills holes, hopefully acts as woodchuck deterrent) but I'd love to compost it and make it safe to use on plants... the pathogen possibility bothers me, but I think that this book may answer some of my concerns.
I get those "daily-ish" emails from the forum, and that is how I found out about the contest. Never thought I'd win something.
paul wheaton wrote:As for shakes - can you make a drawing of how it would work while keeping sun off the plastic and mitigating moisture coming through the nail holes?
You put a layer of Ice and Water Shield between the shingles and the framing members. Ice and Water Shield is great because it self-heals, that is, when you drive a nail through it, the compound flows around the nail and makes it water proof again. Tar paper and other products do not do that.
It is the modern flashing of the day, and is used around windows and doors for that reason.
Upcycle Goods wrote:Excited to hear about humanure. I've used composting toilets before and hope to have one in the future...but I think it's unsanitary to use composted humanure on things that you will eat (like orchard trees and other plants in the garden) is that right? I think aged humanure can be used on willow trees (and from what I remember, they actually thrive). So Joe Jenkins...what else can us "poop in a holers" use aged humanure for? Animal feed crops? Pollinator crops? I really doo doo want to know!
First off, I don't know what "aged humanure" would be. Humanure is a feedstock in making compost, so the finished product is compost, not aged humanure, or aged banana peels, or aged dead animals, or whatever else went into the compost. Compost can be used for human food production, house plants, gardens, etc. I have used compost in such a manner for 43 years, all of which had humanure as a feedstock for the compost pile. A lot of other things go into my compost, including dead animals. You can see a dead animal video here: https://youtu.be/QjnMV31WBew
Extra-ordinary effort and results there Philip. Many things I like about your postings: introvert, effort, organisation, hard work, perseverance, skill building, gratitude for Spirit and Nature. So many more.
Honestly your work around the shop et al is the stuff dreams are made of. Big Respect to you!
That topmost video shows the rhubarb and apple tree at 3:43. Here is a more recent pic taken in late september 2018:
And I just wrote, elsewhere:
This is a picture of a sad little apple tree that was run over by somebody - it was broken and fred tried to repair it with a little masking tape. And the rhubarb was also pretty small and pathetic. And some alfalfa we planted eventually took off. This is on a berm that is pretty much just rock and sand. There is no hugelkultur element (woody bits - or any other organic matter) inside.
And when this picture was taken, all other rhubarb had gone fully dormant, and all other apple trees had dropped their leaves. But the rhubarb looks vibrant and green, and the apple tree looks pretty green, with a leaf count showing strong health.
Alfalfa is a nitrogen fixer with a deep tap root. I think this picture is evidence of the alfalfa finding water and sharing it with the apple tree and the rhubarb.
Anyways, our biggest challenge is the Western North Carolina is humidity. From what I've read, punica doesn't like to fruit if it's always humid. I am still hopeful.
Thanks for talking about this. Totally forgot about the USDA thing
Ben Zumeta wrote:If the trees’ photosynthesis is unimpeded by other plants, in the vast majority of cases, grasses and other plants are beneficial in the long run to the whole system and in turn the trees themselves
Trees work on long term strategies, and it is even more absurd to apply our short term, little guy capitalist mindsets to their care than it is with grains.
I hope so. The only spot in my yard with healthy (ie. strong, tall, very green!) grass is under a neglected one year old mulberry tree. I’ve left the grass there in hope the tree benefits from it when the next annual summer drought comes along. Shade shade shade is what I desperately need each summer, and the tall grass is shading the tree’s soil whilst the tree will eventually shade the grass. The grass also prevents soil erosion and water runoff since the tree’s on a slope.
Meanwhile my actual lawn which gets ‘maintained’ by a groundsman who comes to cut it each time it grows a little in the cold rainy months is now sick, dead or covered in short weeds that avoid the lawn mower. It’ll probably die completely next summer to become just hard bare clay.
Victor Skaggs wrote:I found a large patch of elderberries in the Sierras in Tulare Co., and would pick them, but also eat them right off the bushes, and I ate a lot of them! Now I've read that they should not be consumed raw. They never bothered me, and I mean I ate a LOT of them while picking.
You're one of the lucky ones! There are a large number of people who can consume elderberries raw without adverse effects (maybe as many as 1/3 of the population?). Unfortunately, there's no way of knowing whether you're one of the lucky ones without trying it. For most folks, raw elderberries cause pretty significant discomfort -- stomach cramping, diarrhea and misery that can last for days. Some native tribes used elderberry carefully as a remedy for constipation for this reason. The rest of the shrub is more toxic (stems, leaves, etc.) but you're best off not eating them raw in any case.
Also, raw elderberries just don't taste nearly as good as cooked or as good as other wild berries that you can eat raw. Elderberries are absolutely delicious in lots of cooked recipe (especially with the presence of lemon, which not only makes their flavor pop in a wonderful way but also makes whatever you're cooking turn red, magenta or hot pink since elderberries are also pH indicators).
Here's my recipe for elderberry lemonade concentrate and an example of a naturally carbonated elderberry lemon soda I made last year of some that I lightly fermented with some wild elderflower yeast to show how fun these little beauties are for recipes besides health remedies, too.
I highly recommend using them for your medicinal remedies, baked goods, drinks, etc. instead of taking any chances on eating them raw. :)