To get a BB for cooking soup I used my 'haybox'. I'll show that photo here too, now I discovered this thread on the haybox a.a.
Mine is a large box with a seat on the lid (garden furniture, as a 'pouf' and to put stuff in) with a large old wool blanket inside. And that's all.
Maybe once, when I am in the mood to do all that sewing and stuffing, I will make nice cushions, filled with wool, to replace that blanket.
I have been in constant wonder for an alternative as to how we can be able to manage plastic waste in our area. We are living off grid in an island in Cambodia. During monsoon, every storm brings about heaps of plastic from the sea and we are left with it on shore for disposal. As the locals do, burning all sorts of waste is the way to go as there is no way for garbage to be collected and put in a landfill in the mainland.
This thread started a while ago and reading it now, I wanted to ask if anyone has actually tried to use the J rocket design for the sole purpose of burning waste materials, mostly plastic, driftwood, etc. Our household has a small footprint as the resort is closed due to the pandemic. However, we are a small community living by the beach and we always do our part in maintenance and cleanliness. We know the harmful effects of openly burning garbage on the beach. Another question I have in mind is if there is any option to close the loop of having created energy through burning and where it may be directed if fuel used is mainly plastic.
I have seen axe heads welded to a rock bar and used to cut roots.
The tool I spoke of with a 3 inch blade can also be sharpened and used to cut roots.
Its best to keep the root cutter separate from the clay cutter.
The root one lasts longer between sharpens.
I think the form of building you are looking at is Post and beam.
The poles in the ground are called columns, not pole beams. The poles that go sideways are called beams.
If your posts go the the hard stuff below the fill it should be ok.
We practise rainfall collection and use in Australia all the time. Dont let people tell you its dangerous or illegal.
I have heard many incorrect stories out of North America about catching and using rainfall.
Bob and others, I've heard there are preventative measures worth exploring but once the infestation hits different strategies need to be taken. Primarily, gathering chestnuts daily (or once every 3 days at the least) and promptly treating them in a precisely 20 minute 120dF water bath then drying them off. This kills the weevil and sterilizes the nut before the weevil gets too big for consumer comfort.
Andrew Barney wrote:Neil, you may be interested in our big wild tomato project. Joseph basically started it, but several of us are collaborating on it. We all want better tomatoes, or tomato -like things.
With the help of the collaborators, the project is progressing tremendously. Thanks. This year, I was able to make the first three-species hybrids, and incorporate beefsteak genetics (super large fruits). Those crosses were only possible because of collaborators. Ten local families are attempting to make crosses for me this summer. Many dozens of collaborators are working on the project remotely.
The 3 species hybrids are 50% domestic tomatoes, 25% Solanum habrochaites, and 25% Solanum pennellii. Seeds from that cross are maturing within a week or two. I may be able to get one more generation this summer.
I've recently seen this thread re-incarnated and thought I'd give a little bit of info.I've got a homemade 4" basic 90° rocket stove with a 3" 30° gravity feed fine which I use for burning wood and old cooking oil but tried small piece charcoal in it the other day. Once it was well alight with wood and warmed up I filled the gravity feed tube with charcoal and boy did it heat up. It burnt really well and burnt everything in the tube till it was so hot the horizontal tubing was glowing red and there was no smoke at all. So I guess it will work with coal it would just need to be small pieces and have a mesh stand to all air to get through under it to keep it going. I burn pretty much everything in mine and will be looking to wrap copper pipe around the vertical pipe to heat my poly tunnel and my children's play house sometime soon. I will try to post a picot my rocket heater soon.
Hi...i am a new user here. In regard to the reduction in efficiency of water, calcs I did at one point showed the difference between green wood at 50%, and air dry at 20%, is only 6%. This was working out the BTU's to boil water. Also, if you assign a greater calorific value to wood, then the percentage used to boil off the water reduces.
This may be of help to all woodstove owners out there, but particularly Jotul owners. When I bought my new Oslo F500 six years ago, I foolishly opted for the enamel finish in dark green, because it looked very attractive. I am now paying the price for my folly. The finish on the top is flaking off. Contrary to what the Jotul rep has to say, I have never spilled anything on the surface that has been allowed to boil, and all that Jotul, through the dealer (Friendly Fires, Kingston, Ontario) is prepared to offer me is a bottle of touch-up paint, at my expense. A very poor response and a band-aid fix. Further, that colour finish is no longer an option, so I cannot replace the entire top even if I wanted to. However, I have come up with a good solution, and which also has become a blessing in disguise. When I removed the top, (very simple, three small bolts, two front one rear), I discovered that the insulating blanket over the baffle was covered in almost two inches of ash, severely affecting the ability of the stove to draft. I am a heavy burner; continuous from late September through to May, six to seven cords. A few minutes with the shop-vac cleared all the ash out. A local metal fabrication plant is going to sandblast off the top's enamel finish and powder coat it. A far tougher, industrial finish, much better than Jotul's brittle enamel. A lesson well learnt is that maybe I should remove the top every three years and clear out the ash, replacing the gaskets at the same time.
Kevin MacBearach wrote:What about just putting an electric fence around them?
Well, you need fence posts, which cost time or money. You also need a fencer or an engineering degree---again, time or money. Electric fences need to be maintained. If you're a proper dairy farmer, "walking the fence" is a real thing that takes up a lot of time. Also, fences around trees would take a lot of time and effort. It'd be a lot easier to smear some gooy bad-smelling stuff on the bark every year.
I look at the trees around me, and the cows will strip the leaves from low-hanging branches and also rub the bark off the trunk by rubbing against them. I can see the oil or equivalent stop them eating from the branches, but I've yet to see anyone say it will stop them rubbing against them. Sheep are much the same, I have damage to two younger apricot trees from rams scratching up against them. Sure they've eaten the low branches and leaves from my plum trees, but the scratching/rubbing damage is worse.
There's two fir trees which cows have practically ring barked by rubbing against it in the neighbours field.
At some level, I don't think that dippel's oil can ever be an acceptable solution for cattle for me, unless it were proven to prevent rubbing. Deer or something that does no rubbing damage, perhaps.
I understand it's a repellent and it works for some people. Haven't tried it myself.... Don't have many trees on the acreage that could be rubbed---they're still in danger of trampling and deer damage. I also don't have any cows, either, which is a sad state of affairs.
paul wheaton wrote:Apparently, there is a tree referred to as "sugar pine" that you can tap for edible, delicious syrup. That is all I know. I wonder about the exact species, range and what it is like.
Sugar pine (Pinus lambertiana) is native to the Pacific coastal mountains of North America, especially in Oregon and NorCal. I've never heard of it being used for syrup production. If Ed Burke is still hanging around the forestry department at UM Missoula he might know. That guy's probably forgotten more about trees and their uses than I ever managed to learn from him. Even if it were possible to tap them for syrup I don't think it would be a good idea. They're one of the five-needle pines and so are currently fighting a losing battle with white pine blister rust.
I have the same screen (well, the smaller one--only a TEN FOOT screen instead of twelve and a half) and projector and give them two thumbs up!
This is my current favorite speaker: http://www.amazon.com/Harman-Kardon-Onyx-Studio-Bluetooth/dp/B00IYR8W2O It is bluetooth and rechargeable so you can set it up in front of the room by the screen and not worry about tripping on cords. I use it with the computer, iPad, phones--it just works. Not sure if it sounds as good as yours, but it makes setting up a room so much easier.
One gotcha--the Apple iPad to HDMI adapter lets you stream youtube, amazon video, etc. to the projector, but it also forces audio through the HDMI so you have to connect to the audio outs on the projector. The off-brand adapter for the macbook still lets me still use bluetooth for audio.
And you can re-edit my link if you want the kickback for that one, too. I consider it for the cause...
I decanted my confit oil into glass bottles with screw top and stored in the garage. 2 weeks later i reused it and it was fine. I poured it out a few weeks after the second use and it was smelly and rancid. I think refridgeration would be necessary to keep the fat from spoiling. Any experience with reusing the fat?
So as it turns out, earthworms did a bunch of work for me while I was paying attention to other things (sweet!). My previously impenetrable soil has been a treat to dig in this winter/ spring, save for rocks and roots. Every shovel full is teeming with earthworms. I feel bad for all the damage I'm doing to them, but I expect the survivors will be even happier when I'm done.
K Nelfson wrote:
Here's a nice article that shows how to season a cast-iron pan. There's science in there and everything. I'd put this method above most of the other articles I've seen on the web. And I know there are a lot of cast iron fans around here...
Ms. Sheryl apparently knows quite a bit about the properties of oils, but shares the common ignorance about the crystal structure of cast iron. Seasoning works for cast iron because cast iron is porous. Seasoning does not work for steel or other metals because they are not porous. Seasoning is not baked onto the surface, it is soaked into the porous metal. Oil of any edible kind soaks slowly into the iron, and it soaks in faster when the iron is hot. That is why Ms. Sheryl gets better results when she heats her cast iron. But it would fail if the pan was steel instead for iron even though she used the same oil. Her explanation is all about coating the surface, which would work equally badly on steel, aluminum, or cast iron.
Over time the initial seasoning oil is continually replaced by whatever oil or animal fat is in your pan today. A little bit soaks into the pan and even eventually soaks all the way through and forms a carbonaceous char on the bottom of an old pan.
This ignorance of the properties of cast iron is common, and people like Ms. Sheryl succeed with it in spite of their lack of understanding of the metal.
Thanks for the sound advice. The garden is just passed the driveway, no other choice there. Now much room nearer the house. Once we get things going we plan on dong a food forest to the south and west of area 'A' mostly to keep animals out of the barley and gardens...well that's the plan
Nicholas Covey wrote:Damian,
Your design ideas are good. One thing that does speak to me is the size of the yard. It's location is almost too far for a garden. Also start small or a garden that large, especially without a tractor, will become absolutely soul wrenching. Fence it off temporarily and run stock until you are able to grow your plot or plant something perennial. (Food forest maybe?)
I have found that the gardens inside zone 1 really do make a lot of sense, even if it's not the "best" location at your disposal. Aerial maps only show so much of course.
I will research it some and plan on calling the State tomorrow.
I have been talking with the family about alternatives, such as cistern. I know of some streets in the area that have water pumped in as apparently they have the same problem. The local well driller had to do new well, near a quarry, and was not permitted to go lower than 100 ft.. They wouldn't tell him why but he relayed it to me. Some locals believe the quarry caused a problem, perhaps blasting underground. (1/2 mile away)
Fortunately we happen to have excellent water at our own home so we bring 5-7 gallons over for cooking and drinking and even the dishes. I help with some of the laundry too and showers are taken here on some days. that water is brutal on hair. This is my parents retirement home but for now my daughter, son in law, and grandchild live there. You would think these water people would care about an infant. The first one admitted he's at a loss....$3000 later! The next one was going to save us. We figured we were paying more than honestly. Just venting now but also warning others....get every detail in writing BEFORE they work.
I believe the State of Ct. may help because the levels are so high. I thought 2 filters would have worked best....but then what do I know?
thank you for responding. I will let you know how this turns out. I am determined.
I've decided against 'making my own' since studying the geology around me more.
The typical soil around here is about 10-12" (on average) top soil, then a layer of caliche, and then there is a good thick layer of very sandy alluvium of widely varied parent material. Although the sand is not 'flour' consistency, I will be using it from the tailings of a root cellar pile laying around. I collected soil for a test, but my biggest use of the sand should be adding to compost piles, as the soil should have acceptable mineral levels.
For what it's worth Fukuoka probably would have been against this. You mentioned something about him supporting the idea of tweaking nature, I think you have the wrong idea about him. If anything he felt that nature was perfect as it is, and anything we do to try and make it better results in unforeseen negative consequences. He would have understood that this sort of thing would have the potential to disrupt a natural ecosystem.
Think of it as anything that wasn't there to begin with is now an invasive plant, and what will this do to the local ecology?
Doing this the most ecologically friendly way possible you would obtain a complete knowledge of all the edible plants that grow their naturally. Collect seeds of those plants. Make seedballs, and hurl them out somewhere that has recently burn to the ground. In a few years there is a food forest of native plants, probably full of all kind of animals enjoying eating it. A forest is rebuilt on a fallen forest. I would see less wrong with helping that process along using the natural flora.
The main thing I suggest is that you consider and respect the local ecology and the impact your actions will have on it. So many invasive species have run rampant because someone thought it would be a good thing to plant at the time and might grow well here.
Tom C. & Permies Cloud : Michael Cox is giving you good advice, see the T.E.D. video, the idea is to intensely graze the area, for a short period of time,then put your cattle
on a fresh patch of ground, Grass is grass, whether in a field or on your lawn, as it gets eaten/cut, part of the now oversize root ball is sacrificed by the plant ! This die-back
adds to the fertility of the soil !
Ideally you could get a local farmer to graze your land and make a series of good pastures, that could be left to go to seed or reseeded, some of both in several plots.
By setting up temporary new fencing in smaller paddocks you get the grass revived,you always have two sets of paddocks at one time, the field the cattle are working now and
re-freshing with their manure, and the field your good neighbor farmer will be moving the cattle into, If you have a person you hire to make sure the second set of fencing
gets moved from one paddock location to another, the farmer will be eager to move his cattle onto new pasture! Ideally the man moving fences answers to you, you get paid by
the farmer, it covers your taxes, your helper gets paid by you, and has a back-up job of a few hours helping your good neighbor farmer shift cattle to new pasture !
You may be able to get help on figuring out your rotation schedule from people at your local soil and water district (Yellow Pages under Government, local, county, state )
or you may have to get in touch with organic farmers to find out who is reponce-ably rotating pastureland ! Again we have just got started helping you and your problems
must be solved locally, with luck you could have most of your land in pasture ready to have some of it be restored to hay fields before you get finished! For the good of the
Think like Fire, flow like a Gas, Don't be the Marshmallow ! As always,your comments and questions are solicited and Welcome, PYRO - Logically Big AL !
When you say, difficult to get rid of, do you you mean difficult to cut down, or difficult to keep from coming back?
To this I say both. They are a multi-trunked species. The trunks of fully grown trees are between 4"-8" in diameter. The branches however are the issue. They tangle amongst themselves and nearby trees making a very dense web of branches. Another problem is that the roots must be destroyed to prevent the tree from regrowing.
Regarding clearing whatever brush, it is hard to beat someone from a part of the world where they use machetes. You won't believe how fast they can clear it.
The branches are cut easily with a machete if they are still green and fresh, however when the tree has gone through it's life cycle, (they seem to be an edge species.) the dry branches are very tough and a machete just seems to bounce off.
Goats are a possibility, if they will eat the stuff, especially if they like the bark. Not sure about pigs.
True, however I'm not sure if they would be edible since these trees are poisonous and in the same family as poison oak, ivy and sumac. I don't think I'm even allowed to burn the dead trees because I've heard the smoke is a toxic irritant.
@ K: That's definitely a good point. I guess that's one way to turn a problem into a solution
Here is a video I sent in to Paul and the rest of the admin. at Permies. This will give you an idea of what I'm trying to deal with.
A wise man said, "Growing your own food is like printing your own money."
I'll take that even farther; not just growing your own food, but watching your own kids, cutting your own firewood, cooking your own meals and fixing your own electrical/plumbing/engines are like printing your own money. The advantage is that you're not really quiting working, you're quitting working for someone else. Working for your own household often has a tax rate of zero percent. This used to be normal for our culture. Sure, women's equality brought many good things, but it also brought with it the two income family norm. The market adjusts to an increased labor pool as well as it adjusts to anything else; so while the two income family standard certainly did increase the GDP of the country as well as the tax burden of the household, can anyone really say that it actually improved the standard of living? Probably for some, but even then, I doubt that it doubled it.
My wife has a degree in Microbiology, and worked in her field for Proctor & Gamble, mostly testing their new products for anti-microbial properties. With the additional car payments, the additional food bill (a lot of eating out) and the additional daycare costs; not to mention that we went up one tax bracket, her full time job only contributed a net gain of about $120 per week. It also caused my wife much stress, and she hit the glass ceiling in her department pretty quick. She decided that she'd rather stay home and homeschool our kids. We adjusted our budget to accomodate the lost $120 a week, and my wife was enjoying her daily work again. Within 6 months, I had made up that $120 a week in my own advancement. When one parent chooses to stay home and support the career of the other, that is a job itself. One that produces many great dividends for the family that never show up on a tax return. One might need that additional income to live to a certain expectation. One does not need that kind of income to live well. After all, that's what we work for anyway, right? I know that I don't work for money because I enjoy the artwork depicting long dead presidents.
Thank You all, i will try those methods. What about soybeans? Soybean pods seems harder to break, even with me stepping on some of them remains in pods... or maybe i should dry them more? Anyway we do not have much of them, hand labor will fit this year.