Yes, please do! It would be good to know. I'd like to build a couple of underground structures, but our winters are *really* wet, so if they added the roof for water reasons it would be good to know. Most people who build underground are looking to avoid obvious roofs, so the reasons are worth exploring.
Possibilities: 1. They *need* or *want* to capture rainfall for household water,
2. They needed or wanted a "covered outdoor area" as a patio or work space, or
3. Their underground house leaked and this was the cheapest fix?
Of the five breeds, I prefer the German Angora (which I raised for several years) because they need a haircut every 90 days, the wool does not need much (human) maintnenace between harvests, and they have a commercial (meat) body type. You can go bigger with the Giant, smaller with the Satin, or travel the world with the English or French. Each breed has different qualities including sheen or shinyness of coat, quantity of fiber, body size and type, whether they shed (you pluck gently) or need a hair cut, how much maintenance the wool needs between harvests, among other traits and needs similar to other rabbits.
I also have raised sheep for the past decade. They need much less daily care (per unit of meat and fiber) then rabbits but need more in the way of pasture/hay and harvest day activities. For example, I can butcher a rabbit and have it in the crock pot or freezer in under an hour but it is usually 2 half day events (and several people) to butcher an older sheep or two market lambs.
The main reason I stopped raising fiber rabbits is becuase they need a haircut four times a year and my shearing schedule does not line up well with our cold winters and a summer heat leaving them nearly 'naked' in the winter and wearing a winter coat in summer. I bring this up for your consideration of your climate and your willingness to alter the weather they experinece.
Hey M.K., thanks for the reply! I think it could be a slime mold. I like your description of "icicles" as the mold really looks like brown frost to me. I took your lead and did a little searching and I came across Stemonitis splendens, which kind of resembles what I have growing, but not nearly as tall of long, so I don't think that's it.
paul wheaton wrote:
I was about to tell you off because the word of "some guy" vs. the word of mike ..... and now that I see how much experience you have, I'll assume the position of "silent pie hole"
Do tell - what have your experiences been down this path?!!!
I have browsed that thread several times. Sometimes I read all of the pages and sometimes I just look at the pictures. But that is, no doubt, an excellent thread!
Whitlock is my buddy and neighbor. I am "some guy." Whitlock is doing his own project now too. Glad I'm not the only crazy person in this area.
I think Mike had experimented with the charring and plastic bags and maybe been successful in his case. The charring would likely work out better without the plastic in some cases. In my case it failed.
For one thing I had wet logs for posts. The logs when held vertically dripped water from the wood. I am sure this collected in the bags and was recycled within the wood. They were also next to the uphill patio so may have gained a bit of moisture from there. As another mark against them, we are in porphyry clay which is hard and dry ... a claystone preventing surface water from penetrating the ground for the most part, but when it does get into a hole in the clay, the water will stay there for months, sealed in it's own pocket as the clay swells slightly and seals off all exits.
It could have worked better with totally dry wood IF moisture never got into the bag with the wood, but that is hard to insure. Once it is inside the ag it becomes a terrarium recycling the moisture until the wood is totally rotted and turned into mush. I found some nice big pine beetle larvae happily munching away inside the bag area.
I jacked up the beams and cut the bottom rotted off post with a chainsaw and fabricated steel bases for the three posts lagging them to the bottom of the post.
I don't view my experiences as detracting from Mike's pioneering in this field. Just as further research and a continuation of the work Mike started. I owe him big time.
One thing that might be possible is painting the WHOLE post in polyurethane and then sinking it into the ground. I thought about wrapping it in polyethylene but if that got punctured the whole thing would be like that trash bag.
we've been considering doing something like this concept except the trees surrounding would be bananas, which are heavy feeders and super easy to grow here in the tropics. It never gets below mid 70s here so no risk of freezing. The only issue is making an adequate hole since our dirt is super rocky and hard to dig. What do you guys think, is it a good idea?
paul wheaton wrote:As for shakes - can you make a drawing of how it would work while keeping sun off the plastic and mitigating moisture coming through the nail holes?
You put a layer of Ice and Water Shield between the shingles and the framing members. Ice and Water Shield is great because it self-heals, that is, when you drive a nail through it, the compound flows around the nail and makes it water proof again. Tar paper and other products do not do that.
It is the modern flashing of the day, and is used around windows and doors for that reason.
Hi my name is gilbert brandt and I will soon be digging russian blocking 14. I have been raising comfrey for over 10 years I will have root crowns that are 1,2,3,4,5, and 6 year root crowns and root cuttings. Call 319-283-1495 or email email@example.com thank you.
Sprunce tea and beer have a long history, and an old American recipe can be found in this page. Thank you for reminding us of the natural and readily available beverage.
I'm not sure about his style of gardening, so I can't speak to that specifically. However, I do know of people planting trees by seed in clay cubes in arid regions without watering and the trees have sometimes made it.
As for tree spacing, that's more complicated from what I've seen. Sometimes people get away with spacing trees closer together. The trees adapt as they grow up and are fine. Yet sometimes overly dense plantings cause the trees to be stressed out and compete too much for resources like water. In the Pacific Northwest, for example, the summers have gotten drier and hotter, which has stressed the trees more. Personally I would go for a planned spacing just to be sure, but plenty of people are more experimental and it works for them
Many integrative oral health specialists have mentioned that having acids in your mouth close to brushing time will wear away the enamel, so I can confirm at least that part of what you're saying. I like the robust discussion and ability to increase our knowledge in many areas.
Balance a coin on its edge
Put peanut butter in the bottom of a glass
Turn a glass upside down
Balance one edge of the glass on the upper edge of the coin
Mouse walks under glass to get to nut butter, nudges the coin and bam. Live mouse under a glass.
This isnt as successful as other traps but fits in tiny spaces such as behind the fridge
I don't know if llamas would look after chickens.
I have 2 llamas that graze with my goats, though we hear coyotes pretty much all year, I have never had a problem with them on my property.
I have watched the llamas run from the back of the property all the way to the gate near the house to watch a dog and it's owners walking down the road past the house and stay there till they were out of sight.
Also in the pasture are several geese and a few chickens, when these have been taken by predictors such as raccoons, the llamas have done nothing to stop it.
Karen Donnachaidh wrote:I'm getting "This video is unavailable". Is it just my internet signal that doesn't allow it to load, or...?
I'm not seeing it either. It looks like it got taken down.
I know that youtube is VERY strict about copyright. So I feel if something appears on youtube, it is legit. And sometimes the folks that own the video will allow something to appear for a few days so that folks can get tasted up to go buy it. Here it is at amazon:
paul wheaton wrote:Earth ships have been around at least 20 years. They have a lot of really fascinating ideas. I read the book a long time ago. I even remember reading something about an earthship being built and discovering a seasonal spring that would run through the house. Rather than trying to block it, they made it into an in-house feature!
Earth ships have a lot of really, really neat upsides. When you read the books or watch the youtube videos you can learn all about the upsides.
- internal walls with super duper thermal mass.
- amazing design and shape - a real good design for good solar use and having a lot of light in a home. In fact, the designs lead to more of a "home" than a "dwelling".
- I like the use to waste products although I would far prefer to use waste products that are obviously benign.
The downsides, which are much harder to find out about:
- It takes a long, long, long time to pack those tires with dirt. And it is bone jarring hard work. I have heard from some folks that said that if you pay for labor, the structure will be more expensive than a conventional home.
- Tire off gassing. When this is brought up, many people discount it. And many emphasize it. It is a confusing space and I suspect that the truth leans in the direction of the people concerned about the off gassing.
I agree about the offgassing. Both sides have points to consider. While it would be really awesome to pull something out of the waste stream, especially something that does not degrade or break down for such a long, long time, of course I don't want to use something that could be dangerous to myself or others at the same time. On that same note though, there are people who have build and lived in these homes for a few decades now and haven't reported any issues. So it is either a lack of an issue or a lack of reports.... I think the offgassing- is it or is it not an issue- is definitely something that I would like to see an experiment done on to prove one way or the other (hopefully, beyond a doubt). I'm not sure how or even what one would use to go about detecting tire offgassing...? I mean we have detectors for smoke, carbon monoxide and radon, etc. would it be crazy or even possible to make a detector for the potential offgassing?
http://earthship.com/offgassing From the earthship website, an excerpt from the New Mexico Evironmental Department. Worth a read, in my opinion.
I think another one of the downsides I've read an article about or watched a video on YouTube about is the moisture problem, especially in winter. I haven't seen the earthship site dealing with this issue or mentioning it. As someone who lives in a cold, wet climate (PA), this is a big deal to consider for me as the potential results from water, flood and ice damage, may very well render this concept less useful than hoped for.
While I love the concept of the earthship design and the systems, etc... I feel like the tire pounding labor involved alone would be beyond my ability to do start to finish on my own. I have seen many failed projects online that drive the point home to either have a plan in place and work on a single "U" at a time or arrange to have help, a lot of help, lol. Although in fairness, a number of the projects seem to have 'bitten off' more than they could chew all at once and then running out of money, rather than working in stages and leaving themselves wiggle room physically and financially.
I was curious if any of the folks involved with building them have tried out a climate battery system to possibly help with the moisture? In The Forest Garden Greenhouse, Jerome Osentowski's use of the climate battery and other more recent (the past couple years) projects people have been building with annualized geosolar, air to ground heat transfer, subterranean heating and cooling, earth tubes networks/matrices, what ever name you want to call it.... it seems to me to be an interesting technology. If applied to the earthship concept, I'm curious if it would resolve the moisture issue and/or even keep the thermal mass warmer or charged longer....?
At any rate, there are certainly less laborious building methods and many, many options.
This is just the question I asked along with posting some pictures. I have used reclaimed packaging paper and cordage from shopping/produce bags as well as birch branches from a yard across the street.
Has anyone tried an underground solution like a root cellar? I assume it would have to be well ventilated in addition to being frequently cleaned... my only concern would be the humidity. Thoughts or suggestions?
I did a search and found that this thread had quite a bit mentioned on athlete's foot. I got another case of it recently and decided to try an medicinal herb. I selected eucalyptus oil. I have been using it neat (no dilution), very thinly applied twice a day and have seen my athlete's foot start to clear up in about 3 days.
I don't have any plan to stop using running shoes so I'm sure I will get it again. If I do I will try a more local herb.
Back with more. Wanted to chime in about tanning in a permaculture context.
I actually hate bark tanning, in a sense. I don't like people looking at majestic trees and thinking "Wow that'd make some awesome leather/house/lumber, etc." I can't say for sure, but I would guess whole forests of Eastern Hemlock got chewed up for tanning leather when the Eastern/New England cities demanded it. That's not sustainable in any sense. Cutting down whole trees--or windfall--on your homestead for a roundpole timberframe structure and using the bark on the side is one thing [Edit: for a long lasting super insulated house that will ultimately reduce total wood usage]. Or bucking up some windfall trees for firewood and gathering the bark before bucking. I've done that. I've gathered bark from windfall trees and from clearcuts (feller bunchers leave a lot of bark lying around). But I have never cut down a tree just to tan with it and never will. Nor do I advocate anyone cutting down trees just to use the tree's bark. I have even got tannins from "beauty bark" (in the NW beauty bark is fir/hemlock) because it's there already chopped up ready to go, but I don't think beauty bark is part of a sustainable tanning scheme.
If there is to be a future: coppicing, leaves, and roots are the future of leather tanning.
Sumac is the number one guy worth mentioning because it grows in all 48 states. But another worth mentioning for arid/dry climates is Tanner's Dock. Here's a UC Berkeley Extension report on growing Tanner's Dock. ( https://openlibrary.org/books/OL25199150M/The_canaigre_or_tanners_dock ) I have friends who gather tanner's dock in washes outside Tuscon, AZ.
Coppicing schemes are of course a great option for getting bark from trees. In The Woodland Year by Ben Law he shows that people coppice oak for the bark to make "fine medical leather" (all bark tan is non-toxic so it's more likely to be used in medical contexts). Some trees that coppice well and have high tannins are birch, willow, and chestnut. I would also investigate the tannin levels of green alder. I know red alder has some tannins (and fixes nitrogen) but it doesn't coppice.
Willow of course would make an awesome multi-function coppice plant: bark for tanning, suckers for rocket stoves, suckers for baskets, branches for fencing, etc. (Not all willow makes great basket material and willows vary in tannin content based on species and location).
Here's a super strange mainstream FAO report on coppicing willow for biomass/bioenergy production. http://www.fao.org/docrep/008/a0026e/a0026e12.htm I don't advocate their scheme (edit: I support the science and experimentation, even the breeding, but not the use of heavy machinery as part of a "sustainable" scheme), but it does demonstrate that people are using willow seriously. Salix eriocephala is used, which is also high in condensed tannins.
S. eriocephala ‘Russelliana' variety is sold by Willows Vermont for basketry and living structures (but they are out of it). (And I'm sorry to tease, but most places only sell willow from Dec-March, although I gathered wild willow recently and it hadn't budded out yet).
I have even gathered doug fir bark with a willow pack basket...Rigid pack baskets made out of willow are awesome.
I'd like to chime in that American Elm seems to be a poop beast. I was throwing my dogs' poop into a buried rubbermaid container with holes drilled in it (was a worm bin). I am moving out of my place so I dug it up the other day, and I had a very difficult time removing it because the roots of the large american elm (well beyond it's dripline) had infiltrated the bin and formed a thick mat of roots digesting the poo.
I unintentionally grew many peach trees from pits in the compost. The one I let grow up produces peaches every year but is really damaged by peach leaf curl and bacterial diseases. They taste good, as peaches are less diverse than say apples. I will try to bud something onto them, because they don't take to whip and tongue grafting.
yes i believe there may not be a whole lot of clay on the land, i have yet to do a soil compostion test though, ill do that the next time i have an afternoon and a couple of empty mason jars so i can test a few of the key locations that i want to play with
but that cat litter bit is definitely interesting that it only takes a bit of cat litter to make the difference
there is a clay company around here that i dont know much about but i like their sign so i may contact them if i need a large amount of clay...
Hello permies: Here is a link to a local public access TV show in SB that shows some different water catchment ideas being put into action. It covers infiltration basins, rain barrels, swales, permeable pavers, and roof runoff. Enjoy!
sheila reavill wrote:For honey, make sure honey hasn't been filtered, because this takes out the pollen that people need when they buy it for allergies. Also, beware of cheap gaudy brands because unscrupulous suppliers will dilute the honey with corn syrup. How do you know if that has happened? If it crystalizes and there is a liquid layer on top, that means that layer is corn syrup because corn syrup doesn't crystalize. I've seen it with my very own eyes.
It's true that fake "honey" is a problem -- added corn syrup, etc., but when honey crystallizes quite often it starts in the middle or the bottom. It doesn't mean there's corn syrup in it.
Also "filtering" doesn't remove pollen but "ultra-filtering" does. Legally, in the US, honey which is ultrafiltered cannot be called honey... but it often is anyway.
Check out your local beeman at the farmers market for pure honey.
lots of plants really NEED less sun then the catalogs state that they need. You can try by trial and error, but check out the sunlight beneath the grown plants first..you might be surprised how much sun might be sneaking in under there.
I'd go to the area several times a day and take something to mark with..and mark any areas that get sun at differnt times of day and maybe how long they are sunny..my woods area has sun in it from different directions for several hours a day, even though it is woods, there are clearings that bring in some sun...it might surprise you.
Most plants only require direct sun for a few hours..so most plants will grow under trees to some point.