While this forum does have regional boards you can post to, it is unlikely that you are going to find a lot of local people to get stuff from like this. But if you do, I also highly suggest lettting people know your location since we have people from all over the world on this board. But I am going to guess from the email address you posted, you are in the Seattle area. Check out craigslist if you are looking for manure. There are lots of postings on there for people in the Puget Sound region who have excess manure.
First of all, the biolite stove is a piece of shit when it comes to charging. It only outputs 400ma and you'd spend 4 to 7 hours feeding the baby with sticks just to charge up your iphone device. so its NOT EASY PEASY. If you got a biolite stove, you'd really be sitting on the trail feeling stupid. I DO have the Power Pot thermal electric unit that goes on top of ANY stove and it outputs a full 1000ma of USB current so it'd charge your idevice in just about 2 hours. http://www.rocketstove1234.com/power_pot.htm
Obviously I don't think this is a good application for a stick and wood stove, because again, you're feeding the baby all the time. I really like gasoline liquid fueled stoves. On / Off, high and low and simmer and any setting in between, plus, if you plan your route, you only have to carry 1 bottle of fuel, because you can refuel at any gas station along the route, and I know you do a lot of planning before doing a 9 day hike on the application trail, and I know there are side trails leading off to convenience stores and gas stations. Which of the liquid fuel stoves is best for you, well, I think you better get on a hiking forum to find out that one. I bought a coleman miniature one many years back and its not sold anymore. Well shut my mouth... I just found it on amazon. its a great one piece stove. http://tinyurl.com/kznrvtm
But I don't think a thermoelectric device is best for you. I'd just suggest a good 13,000 to 16,000maH USB powered battery pack. One that has an easy on/off on it plus a state of charge meter on it.
I own, use and travel with this one. It keeps my 7" tablet and android phone charged up when traveling on planes and such. Plus its emergency power if I loose it in the hotel. You want a good USB cable to go along with it like the amazon 'basics' cable, that way it charges at full capacity. Most people don't know this, but the smaller and cheaper cables can limit the amount of current going to the phone.
This is the battery.
here is the link to the cable.
You did good thinking about NOT getting a damn solar panel because you're going to be under the canopy all the time.
Steve Slunick , the corps of engineers as well as most game and fish agencies will lime a lake occasionally to promote lake health, I would not worry about the minute amount you would possibly contribute to the lake. You can always work on your yard in small stages with will keep possible runoff to a minimum. I would aerate then spread a thin layer then water it in with a gentle spray of water, wait a few days and repeat.
As with anything, when it becomes a real nuisance, it's time to act accordingly, preferably with out harm to non-target things. The ants you have, that have evicted your dog from your yard are probably a type of fire ant. Rather than run a risk, just sprinkle diatomaceous earth over the hills, don't water it in. If you want to do something fast, you can use a borax soap in a lawn feeder type hose sprayer and saturate the mounds. When that has soaked in and the surface is dry, sprinkle the diatomaceous earth, that will finish the job. I had a multitude of ant hills on my land when we started the rejuvenation and restorations, we have only treated the mounds that are in the way/ in the wrong places. The Diatoms do the job with out being a danger to any of your critters. using the borax as a soak, also does well and it isn't available for your critters to lick up.
Inprove drainage and aeration in one step by increasing water holding capacity with biochar and compost. By mixing in pulverized biochar the water will drain as deep as you mix the char. But what matters is not so much the drainage , it's the aeration effect due to adsorbtion of water by the char not to be confused with absorbtion . So your soils water holding cap will be higher with char but the water will be held in place by the cryrtal and allow air to get in. Don't forget to add raw manure to the char before aplication.
Since you probably aren't growing your kitchen garden in the winter, I'm not sure why you would want to store the water over winter unless you use so little water in your laundry that you don't generate enough in the summer. I'd focus on just diverting it away from your driveway to a mulch basin like you said. Or, if you want to create a stockpile for summer, have you considered a small pond? That wouldn't matter if it froze over in the winter and with a small filter and pump, you'd have plenty of water for a kitchen garden.
You should be comparing rocket mass heaters to masonry heaters, not rocket stoves. There is a difference!
Rocket mass heaters take the rocket stove concept and harness the fact that the burn hot and fast to their advantage. In a RMH, the exhaust coming out of your chimney should be far lower temperature and with far less smoke than either a traditional wood stove or a masonry heater. That tells you the efficiency of the system right there. I think if you were to compare a RMH to one of those Kimberly or Katydid wood stoves, it wouldn't even be a competition.
I'd go ahead and build a test stove. My main advice is that if this is your first RHM and you are building an untested design or designing it your self, don't get discouraged if it doesn't work out. If you can, it would really help to build a time tested design the first time. It really doesn't take that much more time or materials and your results will be much, much better. Ocne you've got that under your belt, then experiment!
What I took from it was to worry more about ventilation than heat. However, we do use a 100 watt incandescent when it get's really cold. We're just coming out of the 5th coldest winter on record here in Minesnota and all my chickens made it though healthy and unscathed (no frostbite).
We still have a few weighted accumulators in use in the UK mainly for swing bridges.
Unfortunately, these do not store appreciable energy (low energy density). However, they are useful in some settings because they can deliver energy efficiently at an extremely high rate (high power density). I maintained several very large hydraulic accumulators pressurized to 3000 psig. The purpose of these was to raise an elevator platform weighing more than 250,000 pounds by more than 40 feet in under 10 seconds (aircraft elevators on U.S. Navy aircraft carrier vessels). The system was recharged after each cycle by running four large piston hydraulic pumps powered by electric motors rated at roughly 300 hp. All four pumps working together could recharge the system in roughly 90 seconds. While such a massive storage system at high pressure appears to supply an enormous amount of energy (10 million foot pounds sure seems like a lot), the system actually shows very poor energy density (the figure is about 13000 btu - about one pound of coal). This same amount of energy in the form of electricity (about 3.8 KWh) can be delivered by a fully charged lead acid battery weighing about 250 lbs.
I don't see this as a practical system for appreciable energy storage.
hi, I just joined and am overwhelmed by the forums but i did read through this thread and wanted to respond. As far as thinking more broadly in terms of one's personal goals, (trying to create change at a larger scale) just looking at Occupy, 1) there are millions of us who know systemic change is necessary, however, 2) the powers that be feel threatened and aren't afraid to use violence to crush any organized threat. So decentralized efforts of non-participation in the dominant money system (aside from buying land?) are probably the best bet in terms of creating the world of our visions. Staying below the radar is safer and more effective, like mycelium, we just need to lie low and do our thing creating abundance and connection. Having said that, the more space that is created by our leaders for others to come up and live liberated from debt and money, the more the culture will snowball. A previous comment mentioned barely being able to manage five acres. It just seems like for every landowner who is living the dream, there must be 50-100 people like myself and the original poster who are still trying to save up for land, but have been learning and doing small things in rental housing, who could assist with the work of a permaculture farm. I guess what I'm suggesting is I'd like to see more eco-village type opportunities, which are happening...its just never soon enough, eh?
The type of work ethic required to entrepreneur a farmstead is not the same as trying my best at something I am good at even if there is no market for it.
I personally came in to my farming career with plenty of hobbies and skills that beneft the development of my farm, but had zero input on the purchase of my farm.
In my specific case, I sucked it up and delivered pizza while pinching every penny possible. In fact retail and fast food are some of the fastest growing and highest demand industries in our economy right now.
I do not mean to insult your work ethic, only to share my own misconceptions of what type of sacrifice was actually required to jump out of a suburban lifestyle and into a farmstead lifestyle.
Without the ability to constantly create wealth nor enough stockpiled to keep the farm until its profitable, I just cant fathom getting this venture off the ground and keeping it a float long enough to succeed.
As for your ailments, the good herb has many holistic remedies and might be beneficial for you.
Click on the blue links next to the crosses if the pics don't show.
Yes clay flue liners crack, only once usualy. But even then, they stay together. And they can whistand the heat better than steel. I'm dubious that the clay perlite mix with a metal tube which burns off, will last longer than clay flue elements surounded by an insulator.
Well, i'm trying to advocate this method. I couldn't find any tubes for the us posters before. There's a few who have tried this in europe. For me, it's cheap, i cross the border into italy, go to the suplier just on the other side, and buy three or four pieces of tube, and it rarely costs me more than 30 euros. I like their 18cmx18cm rounded corner square tubes. Perfect for J tubes.
Actually, many forest soils in the PNW (OR WA BC) are very deep and very full of organic material. Some are many feet deep due to conifer needle duff. Most will be acidic and fungal, and so better for trees than leafy vegies, but to say that they are just thin and poor is probably not very accurate. In the Amazon rainforest (and most tropical rainforests), the soils are very thin, and almost all of the organic material is in the standing trees, vines, etc. It's largely a function of temperature. In the really hot areas, organic material decomposes so rapidly that it is very difficult to have deep soils. In addition, some desert-like areas just don't produce a lot of organic material, so not much is found in the soil.
There are some locally relevant publications about water infiltration by WSU--focused on water quality and catering to mainstream landscape design aesthetics or capital project specifications... but interesting all the same. LID is an entry point for permaculture that has been poorly developed.
There are lots of good suggestions here already, but I thought I might mention that cows can apparently eat the myceliated straw from spent oyster mushroom projects. Paul Stamets also says that "wormy" King Stropharia mushrooms can be tossed into a pond and that the fish will bump into the floating mushrooms to dislodge the fungus gnat larvae for food! (I've never seen this!)
In my own experience, after a few years the wood chips in a King Stropharia or Oyster bed turn into a rich, dark soil that earthworms love. In fact, I have to struggle to keep earthworms out of my King Stropharia or Shiitake cultivation projects because they love to eat the mycelium. Pillbugs always infest old King Stropharia beds and we all know how much chickens love to eat those bugs. I hope this helps...
You might try traditional moss, of which have been characterized as 'grows by gathering nutrients primarily from the air'. They generally are good 'dust collectors' because similar to a sponge, the particulates in the air circulation gather upon damp moss easily. I doubt moss actively seek out formaldehyde or any other specific pollution, rather more like a collector of whatever drifts by. Different mosses collect differently than each other, so a variety of mosses might be in order.
There is a funny little moss that primarily grows in the tallest tree top limbs but also grows on the ground, it is light green patch which looks like a tangled mass of hair, it looks similar to the 'reindeer moss' that can be found growing on the ground. Both of these are probably lichen, maybe you have a local source of special air filter plants in your area, if you lived in LA, MS, AL, FL, GA... for example,...you might try 'spanish moss'.
There is another substance that grows on the tall tree limbs, usually dying limbs, I call it 'squirrel jelly' it ranges in colors from crystal clear, to rusty red, and carbon black, it is somewhat sticky almost like dried tree sap, I think 'it's job' is to collect various spores or whatever is drifting by, then drop it to the ground when the limb falls off.
I like the 'spider wort' which grows outside, but...'they' say the blue flowers will turn pink as a warning that radioactive is present, but then wouldn't all blue flowers turn pink if radioactive was present? hahaahha
I suspect that similar factors undermine both "layperson science" and "professional science". Regardless if the analytical methods and measurement tools are simple or complex, if the integrity of the logic is weak, the scientific methods slips into self deception. This is what separates science from superstition.
And absolutely the science community frequently likes to pretend that it has knowledge when it has no evidence, just like other communities... for example saying that things it cannot measure don't exist..
I totally get all the issues raised in this thread, but I think the diversity of delivery of Paul, Geoff, Jack Spirko, and others is important for more than a few reasons. Paul and Jack are gateway folks - those who break down the complexities of the permaculture world into snippets, vignettes, and fun experiments for the masses (and you need masses for an empire, right?). Once those folks get in here, dig around, and get a taste of what they've been missing in the outside world...they might go looking for a Geoff Lawton then. Most of them wouldn't be ready for the amount of info prior to that, nor would they understand the value of what they'd be getting in a Lawton PDC.
Value is subjective, though...for me, the value of a Lawton PDC was the hardcore, Mollison-direct, no metaphysics & no politics/socialism aspect of the course (and this is coming from a "metaphysician", mind you!). I didn't want drumming, rolling in the mud, or endless discussions about government that usually degraded into hippie monkey-chatter. I wanted information, and the knowledge of how to implement it.
On PRI's (Geoff's) end, these videos are the ramp-up to the big-batch PDC teaching that Geoff does (in addition to managing Zaytuna, traveling around the world on consult, etc.), and even though it's online, it does require a huge amount of his time over a period of months...so it's worth it to take this marketing approach to cram as many people into each class. If the cost of the course doesn't work for you, at least buy Mollison's design manual and do the read-thru with Jennifer's group. That book is worth its weight in gold, and after the PDC I even knew what the hell I was reading, lol.
I am endlessly grateful for the efforts of Paul, Jack, and everyone who helps to open the door of permaculture to another new mind. They have BIG roles translating this info for newbies. That type of diversity of info delivery will push everything much further in the long run.
I would check for other wells in the area at http://mbmggwic.mtech.edu/. The account is just an email and password no money or anything required. Hopefully there are a few wells in the general area to give you an idea on depth to water and geology. Also be sure you file with DNR once you have the well to protect your water right. Even if your property is on the Rez you will need to file. Once the water compact is done they may grandfather the existing filings. Any new wells after that most likely will have to be approved by a committee. I am down by St Ig and my well is 140 Ft deep and yields 25 gpm. I am a professional geologist and will say that I believe dowsing by the right dowser can be helpful. Sediment geology is highly variable in glaciated areas but the reality is your water could be much deeper than the reach of an excavator.
I built one out in my yard using a 40 gallon propane tank which I cut the top and bottom off of, and then cut the guts out of it until it was empty.
I took a 12 inch ring about 7" wide that was left over from my gasification stove build and place it in the front and built a chamber out of bricks about 2' deep and 18" wide,
At the back i placed a stove pipe 90* attached to about 2" of vertical pipe I placed the Steel tank over the top of the pipe, resting on the block, and put one end of the tank upside down in the top acting like a bowl. I took a scrap piece of the vent pipe in the bottom to replicate the exhaust vent for a thermal mass bench, then sealed it with clay dirt.
That thing works awesome!!It's not even 100% sealed.
The flame shoots straight up on the bottom of the steel bowl which gets incredibly hot! Now I plan to coil copper and insulate it with Cob then run water through it. It should heat the water pretty well! I like this design the best of all I have seen yet, because you can walk away from it for a couple of hours, I put whole logs in it. The smaller ones are too needy, requiring constant attention, their worse than a puppy!
I'm just playing with it now, I just wanted to see if it worked like everyone said, IT DOES!!!
Very Cool! Since it sounds like it is a little more complex than a standard RMH, do you have any cut away style diagrams that you could post to show how this works? Did you use actual cob with straw or just clay? If cob, are you concerned with the straw burning out over time?
Also, though perhaps splitting off into a separate topic - what role does the internet play in permaculture. Not to wonder off completely (ahem) but what with global internet access being an easily reachable goal in the very near future and no real rule of law when it comes to intellectual property and all?
Say like - I invent a self cleaning plumbing system out of tin cans and some old mycillium, or a greenhouse out of pop bottles or whatever. Do I hoard it to myself until I find an attorney and a publisher? Or do I share it for the world to see? and what if people in the coastal Philippines or the inundated salinated parts of Bangladesh are like 'sweet a floating greenhouse with water filtration!' how do I get my cut? I should get like ten percent of all future produce produced and a nickel a gallon of water for ever and ever based on anything resembling my design right? Can and should I charge more for people living in the US and Canada who have a higher adjusted income? Is merely being the first one to put up an instructional video (or web post) be sufficient to claim ownership on these? I'm swimming deep water here because I really don't get how this money stuff works. I keep thinking the name of the game in the 21st century 'crisis time' paradigm is one of broad distribution and easily implementable solutions. To my mind money as it currently exists seems to be nothing but a complicating factor. Especially as it relates to the goals of my basic understandings of a permaculture* Have I lost anyone? Everyone?
* more trees, cleaner water, enough food for everyone born into the world, yada yada yada.
Tom, I am afraid that you are right. Personally, I would put out a set of plans and call them experimental, and have people give their experiences with the plans. But I guess I will reinvent the wheel.
Stanescu gabriela wrote:
Should I consider planting larger trees towards the fence and a smaller range of bushes in front?
In general, planting a layered system in the pattern of shortest to tallest, having the shortest plants in front facing the angle of the sun corridor (In your case south.) In general, this pattern maximizes the productive light-filled edge of the system, giving all the plants optimal light. If you plant them in certian patters you can also create an effective wind break, trapping warm moist air in your system. Here is a diagram from Bill Mollison that is illustrates this on a large scale.
you can also think about staggering your plantings to get more plants into a smaller area. like this:
Do approach your neighbor, assuming they aren't raving lunatics. Down here the local pasture operators and the landed gentry put Glypho and 2-4,D on everything but their oatmeal. I went through a short period where the downwind conditions were right and we sustained some leaf damage from excessive drift. A little over-the-fence diplomacy went a long way, especially after I pointed out how much of his money was blowin' in the wind. Gently ask how they're applying it and when, this has more to do with the amount of drift they'll get and the effectiveness of the amount they're using. Monsanto goes to great length (bless their selfless little hearts...) on their literature and website to promote large droplet size and low dilution/application rates, even going so far as to sell a special nozzle for sprayers to get the drift as low as possible. See if they're waiting for low wind, moderate humidity and especially no dew on the plant leaf. Low dilution and large droplet size really increase the effectiveness of the amount applied and reduce drift to a minimum. You will probably never get them to stop using the gick, but you can reduce the amount that blows your way. Good luck.
I know a lot of people want to try and sell their properties without a real estate agent, but consider first that the fee they charge is worth the exposure they offer you. And you can use their services without locking your self into anything by using a Non-Exclusive Seller Listing Agreement. With this agreement, you are saying that, if they bring you a buyer, you will pay them the agreed upon fee. But if you manage to find a buyer on your own, you owe them nothing. And to make it all pan out equal, pick the price you want to sell your property for, increase it to cover the fee the agent is charging, and sign the agreement for that amount. That way, either way, you net the same amount, but are under no obligation if they fail to perform.
While we are in the right forum section , and a lot of great minds watching this post i have a question i haven't found an answer to.... When one makes bio-diesel is it necessary to refine the alcohol into methanol or ethanol ? or could one wash the mix with a wash after the lye process ? ie make a 20% turbo wash and scrub the oil/bio-diesel without distillation? allowing it to trans-estify and scrub the salts / acidity in one process... would use a lot less energy for a completed product .. Just thinking aloud
If you can plan to graft or plant trees on contour or keyline then put the goats between them I would do that. We move our goats through with electric netting that is a real pain in the brush but it keeps them in and the divided area lets us rotate them through. They do a better job at clearing that way and we reduce parasite pressure. We have tried to put them in areas with trees we want. If the are big enough 5+ inches for fruit trees and they have plenty of forage around them the goats don't bother them to much. So a bit of protection around the trunk seems okay. Smaller tree need a strong structure around them if the goats are just going to be hanging out with them. With other trees to strip that are similar to the ones you are protecting the chance of them eating you trees goes down. But when it does happen it really sucks and sets the trees back.
I've seen starting fluid used. Sometimes on old rims and tires, they use a goo to help with the seal. I think the idea is to heat the bead and goo at the same time. Tire shops that have plenty of high pressure air, can usually get a good seal by jostling the tire about and then hitting it with a rubber hammer as it expands over the bead. These back yard tricks are used by those with lower volume air systems.
The tire isn't being "fixed", as in hole patching. It's just an expedient way to get it into a good seal position, so that air being pumped in doesn't escape through the crack. The hot gas will quickly cool, so the air would be immediately attached and the pressure adjusted before the tire has a chance to pull away from the bead.