Similar to Roxanne, my brassicas that overwinter in my unheated greenhouse come back strong in the spring (unless rodents chew them down to nothing over the winter) producing tons of healthy leaves before all the leaf eating critters get going. I really should try getting some broccoli planted in there later this year with the aim for it to overwinter and be harvested in the spring.
Have your tomatoes started to flower? I have some in containers where the imported soil is probably quite rich, and they are deep green but with only a few flowers. Uh-oh! I have some in the garden, too, that aren't growing that well but seem to have a bit of fungal damage. I'm worried that the soil in the containers has too much nitrogen. Growing like crazy, deep dark green, but maybe not many tomatoes.
Yes. Flowers and green fruit. Looks like more than I usually get, but I moved to this bed because my other garden didn't get enough sun, so take that with a grain of salt.
How does the nutrient content of comfrey compare to an average plant? A common claim is that comfrey contains high levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Two sources which analyzed comfrey came up with similar values of NPK which for simplicity can be rounded off to 3-1-5.
What is the NPK of some common plants? That is not easy to find, but here are some found by Robert Pavlis:
• Alfalfa 2.5-1-2
• Clover, crimson 2-0.5-2
• Corn gluten meal 9-1-0
• Cotton seed meal 6-0.4-1.5
• Rye, annual 1-0-1
• Seaweed 1-0.5-1
• Soybean meal 7-2-1
Are these average plants? None of the above plants are dynamic accumulators by the definition used by Robert Pavlis, so they are not considered to have high NPK values. It seems reasonable to consider them to be average plants. When you compare comfrey at 3-1-5, it is not much better than the average list – it is certainly not ten times better.
you can get a lot more information, especially long lists of many plants with their amounts of just Nitrogen, just Phosphorus, just Potassium, etc. etc. for the whole list of minerals. Most of them are vegetables, fruits, or edibles, since that's what has been tested....
Good points, Sile! I wonder how nature manages it. I suppose by throwing out thousands more seeds than plants eventually needed. If every foxglove seed that one plant dropped germinated and grew up, there would be no other flowers in the garden. No room!
I wonder if this works best for slow-germinating seeds? I am growing ground cherries, which are incredibly slow to get started. I got interested in them because a couple of plants began showing up in my yard year after year. I thought it was a perennial. The seeds require *weeks* of water and light to germinate. You come to believe it’s a failed experiment when the first tiny bit of green emerges. But late in June I can always find a few plants in that spot - they have withstood the chickens, the lawnmower, being stepped on, and so forth before they are big enough to notice.
I will attempt to answer a very narrow part of this important question. But for starters, I am wishing that we could get a soil test that instead of giving NPK readings gave soil microbe readings.
One extremely important form of soil life to consider is fungi, especially mycorrhizal fungi. These fungi attach themselves to plant roots and act like root extensions, but better. The mycorrhizal fungi will actually scavenge soil for nutrients and provide them to plants in exchange for carbohydrates. It is a true symbiotic relationship.
These fungi can form vast webs. In fact, they can be so large that I hesitate to even call them microbes, but nonetheless they are extremely important to truly healthy soil and are debatably the most important of healthy soil biota. Other microbes obviously are important as well, but the mycorrhizal fungi are my suggestion to take the top spot.
So interesting. When I began reading this thread, I noticed that in the first post all sorts of disasters were mentioned except a pandemic. Now here we are. While our pandemic doesn't, so far, seem to pose a threat to the grid, the possibility of dramatic economic collapse (or near-collapse) is clearly in sight, we had food shortages (and don't forget the toilet paper!) as well as shortages of bleach, alcohol, hand sanitizer, and the like. It's not too great a leap to some additional strains on the system that create a greater need for self-sufficiency. Just ask gardeners (i.e., every permie) who tried to find certain seeds at their usual time, only to find that there had been a run on seeds (and seedlings) this year.
I was impressed by Purity Lopez's plans to limit her solar power to specific items (a refrigerator and freezer, for example). That could be a good approach for us. In general, we can keep things cold in the winter (frozen, at least); summer is better for solar power and if that could keep the fridge and freezer running, we would only have to figure out the water situation. We have an unreliable (vernal, more or less) spring on our property, and a public spring less than a half-mile away.
I crave solar, and especially off-grid, but our property doesn't lend itself to solar easily due to combinations of tree shade, roof orientation, and the fact that south is uphill from our property. Also, Vermont - not the sunniest state. But we are building a root cellar, have wood heat (and lots of trees), and are contemplating some sort of independence from our electric water pump so we could access our water.
I love these stories of potatoes growing effortlessly! That has (sort of) been my experience. I ran out of room in the garden (where three potato plants are growing like gangbusters) and put the rest in my brand-new food forest (which has a mulberry tree, a transplanted daylily, failed flower experiments (shade) and 14 potato plants. The deep wood chips stay moist, but the potatoes were planted (with a little compost and soil in each hole) near the edge of the wood chips, so they would actually get some sun. Thus, I've been watering them as it is drier there than deeper in the "forest," which is adjacent to the actual forest.
So, I've put effort into watering. Apparently I forgot where I planted some of them, because after our single rainstorm in the last few weeks, three new plants started emerging! I am going to have a LOT of blue potatoes, chosen for their anthocyanins. Cheaper than blueberries but so nutritious and filling! And apparently effortless to grow, if you get a bit of rain.
Dustin Rhodes wrote:Many folks in urban/suburban neighborhoods may have a conception of a "Community Garden" and what that looks like, rather than a "food Forest." Have you had better success in convincing folks to start at the community garden level, and work their way up to a food forest, rather than just starting immediately with the forest? Or am I overthinking this?
I've done one of two things at each site:
1.Started from scratch. In this case I plant a food forest/forest garden that includes annual gardening in between the trees, so that they get production right away
2. Started at an existing community garden and put in a section of food forest/orchard in an area not currently being used
Either way I would plant at least some perennials ASAP, so they can get established. The most conventional I'd be willing to go to ease people would be planting an orchard to start, instead of a food forest, if that makes sense
Ken W Wilson wrote:White mulberries are good. I don’t worry about them being invasive because they have been here 200 hundred years. They have already invaded. They aren’t going away. I am not sure if I have ever seen our native red mulberry. I don’t remember how to tell them apart though.
I like that line of thinking. Plus in this case the black and white varieties still serve as useful food and habitat for woodland creatures as well as fruit for me. I've read most places selling red actually the cultivars are black or mixed red/black genetically.
Broom roots change the biology of the soil, reducing acid and adding nitrogen - this is the opposite of what many native species like in my part of the world. I haven't heard of them being overly toxic when decomposing.
The plants themselves are high in nicotine which can be toxic when burnt.
The best solution I've found for them so far is goats.
And I was going to suggest the thread, but you already beat me to it.
I had a spot where nothing grew. On the east side of the house, but shaded by another house close by and a big tree in the neighbor's yard. But no weeds would grow there. I decided it was the perfect place to plant mint. And it was! The mint filled up that side of the house over a period of years, covering the exposed soil. It looked lovely. It didn't spread aggressively where other plants were growing. I moved away. I wonder if that's still true?
I took a similar approach to Thomas. I dug two feet deep, then made two foot high beds. I filled them with ever smaller branches (foot thick logs on the bottom, then 6", then 3", with branches on top) filling the voids in each layer with straw, leaves, sticks, straw, and the dirt I had taken out. The top I filled with looser soil and compost.
Sally Brown, a research assistant professor of soils at the University of Washington, knows her way around both food and metals. Starting out as a chef and then a food broker between farmers and restaurants, she became fascinated with soils and went on to earn a PhD in agronomy. Brown’s current research includes identifying the mechanisms by which organic residuals reduce the availability of soil metals to plants. She has some hard-earned opinions.
Brown says that if you already have the older, arsenic-treated wood in your garden, don’t panic. Plants will not take up arsenic unless the soils are deficient in phosphorus. That is not a problem for gardeners who use compost generously. As for the new copper-based wood treatments, Brown believes the actual risk is minimal. First of all, if plants take up too much copper, they will die before a gardener can eat them. In addition, if homegrown vegetables make up a small percentage of the diet, exposure to any metal taken up is insignificant. Do not use copper near ponds and streams because it is toxic to aquatic life.
If you are worried about that, you can line with metal (which IMO has similar risks to lining with treated wood) or much better yet, line with HDPE plastic film. If you are anti plastic, then your options are dwindling. Use rocks or bricks, or use cedar/locust/cypress (which have plant growth inhibiting compounds just like treated wood does, that's why they resist rot.) IMO treated wood is the clear winner unless you have the money for stone or brick, in which case that is the clear winner.
Things I wish I had done differently:
1) leave more room for soil. For transplants, I am bumping against hardwood branches a few inches down due to soil settling.
2) Mulch immediately. I have tons of little weeds because I did not put down mulch.
3) Put a cross brace about a foot down to keep the sides from bowing. They don't bow much now but time will tell. Unlike the bed frame, I would not use treated wood for this. There is a slight difference to me between on the edges and right smack in the middle.
4) Put a copper band around the bed right away to keep slugs out. Too late for me, now I have slug babies in the bed.
They don't necessarily get "frigid," as they will be willing to breed; however fertility begins to decline at 75°F. with them becoming temporarily sterile at around 85°.F The more you use the buck, the longer he will maintain fertility. But after a week or so at 85°+with no breeding they typically become, what rabbit breeders call "heat sterile."
Of course that's not a "magic number" for all bucks. Environmental variables and genetics will also play a part in the buck's fertility.
Yep, Trace, I get analysis paralysis pretty bad as well. It doesn’t help that as I get older it is easier to procrastinate. Worse for me is being a teacher amid the whole COVID epidemic has made starting new projects difficult. Not impossible, they just don’t start as easily as they once did.
My best technique to overcome analysis paralysis is simply to get a list going. At the very least I have a list of things staring me in the face telling me to get something done.
The list is especially helpful for getting the little minutiae done. It’s the small, minor tasks that build up the most and become that insurmountable object.
The real question is the potential for a hidden agenda. If the agenda is to get rid of you (and people like you), I doubt if your problems are going anywhere. The good news is that the powers that be are not just messing with you. This deeply impacts the people who want to sell the land as well as realtors. Best of luck.
Bill Chepel wrote:Thank you for all the great replies. I did mix them into my mulch pile.
The problem I have with the milkweed is how it will be perceived by the local rancher who wants the hay from that field. I call it a pasture but there are no livestock on it. It has been a hayfield for years and farmed conventionally with synthetic fertilizer and broadleaf herbicides like dicamba and 2,4,D (we bought the place 6 months ago) to create a mulch hay for mushroom farms. There was never any thought given to regenerative agriculture and it shows in the soil tests (low organic matter). I've started the conversion to organic and quite honestly not sure how to create good organic hay. In late spring I did a light vertical till and overseeded using a no-till seed drill with organic seed (5 hay/pasture grasses, medium red clover, alsike clover and yellow mustard). I've stayed off it since but the weeds are popping up which was to be expected. Organic hay is going to be tough. My long term goal is good forage for livestock. Thanks again
"I'd like to believe that it's true --- that certain plants send a deep tap root down into the soil and mine the subsoil for scarce nutrients, which they then draw up to the soil surface where they are deposited when the comfrey leaves are picked/eaten/composted. "
I don't know how it could possibly be untrue, Marco. Clearly plant roots will absorb mineral nutrients from as deep as their roots go, and if those minerals are transported to the above ground foliage they will.become part of.the surface biome. We may fail to acknowledge just how many minerals are used in root development and thus overestimate this effect when we imagine that all the minerals obtained 6 ft deep end up in the leaves, but I am under the impression that the only question about dynamic accumulators is whether particular plants actually do an exceptional job accumulating a particular mineral or not.
As for comfrey and nitrogen, all I need to see are those giant dark green leaves growing profusely to know that there is plenty of nitrogen in that plant
Great post and thanks for sharing your list of plants for your riparian plantings. I run the environmental restoration program for a non-profit here in western WA. And as Anne mentioned (thanks for the call out! ) my wife and I also run a blog called Wild Homesteading and I post here a fair bit. I really love this sort work and on my own property I'm actively working on creating new wetlands and adding complexity to the seasonal stream that flows through it. My ultimate goal is to have surface water on my property year round and not just fall through spring.
I think adding complexity to these sort of habitats when possible is a great option though it depends on what the existing conditions are--care needs to be taken when dealing with fish bearing streams for example. In my case the seasonal stream was a single channel that ran mostly straight and was eroding downwards. Part of what I've been doing is creating ponds and using those ponds to raise the water level up out of the eroded sections to reconnect the stream with surrounding higher ground. The result is what was a single channel stream is now a multi-channel stream. I'm also adding meanders to other areas and creating waterfalls which improve oxygenation of the water. There are no fish in the stream and since it goes dry in late spring or early summer I haven't had to worry too much about having a negative impact to existing aquatic life. The surrounding land is just degraded pasture so very little existing vegetation other than pasture grasses. Basically a clean slate to do work in.
The result of all this is an increase in the overall amount of stream bank and aquatic habitat. Plus, the water is slowed and spread by the meanders and ponds/pools which will hopefully raise the groundwater level under my property and downstream (large wetland downstream with a large pond) which in turn will hopefully help keep water in my ponds over the summer.
In the upper areas of my property the soils are all clay. In one area I'm planning to build a swale to capture and transport water from a pond I put at the mouth of a stormwater culvert. The swale will take the water upstream--since the stream is lower than this pond I can follow the contour line with the swale to a section of the stream that is at a higher elevation further upstream. The result is the water from the stormwater culvert can be moved further upstream in relation to the water in the stream before it flows into the stream. But since the soils are all clay in this area I'm planning to make a wider than needed swale and only use about 66% of the dug out material to build the swale berm. The rest of the removed clay will be used to help seal up sections of the large ponds I'm building along the seasonal stream.
These ponds are created by building earthen dams across the seasonal stream--these are relatively small with a max height of 4 feet and are built by hand using a shovel. I want to seal the dams using the clay from further up so the water has to travel downward into the ground instead of forward through the dams as they slowly do now. High flows go over spillways that I'm planning to improve so they function more as a series of cascading waterfalls to help oxygenate the water.
I've built 3 of these dams so far and the first and largest has held up to a record rainfall event so they're fairly stable. I did have to widen the spillways to keep the largest dam from being over topped but otherwise this approach seems to be working.
There's more water capture features that I'm building or want to build including some ponds at the highest points on my property that may be filled by pumping excess water from the lowest ponds (using solar). I've also started building some terraces to slow more water down and I'm capturing stormwater runoff from a dirt road. The basic goal of all of this is just to keep water on my property for as long as possible and to greatly expand the aquatic habitat available for wildlife.
But I also want to grow food on my property so I'm striving for a balance with food crops and native plants.
In one area just upstream of my largest pond I'm working on creating a small island that I'm calling my blueberry island. This island will be setup to function as a bog with the blueberries growing on a series of mounds in the bog. This will keep their roots a bit out of the water but they will still have access to it. The soils should also stay naturally acidic. All of this I hope will result in bumper blueberry crops.
Most of my food forests will be planted on higher ground above the core wetland area which is along the seasonal stream. But I hope to grow a lot of native edibles that like wet areas like salmonberry, wapato (arrowleaf), cattails, springbank clover, silverweed, and others. There are also some non-native edibles that I may grow in these areas and I may plant cool weather vegetables like spinach on the sunny sides of the blueberry mounds on that island. This area will stay cool and moist longer into the year so spinach and some other food crops may do better there than in my main gardens.
I'm also planning to grow alders, cottonwoods, some Oregon ash, willows, red oiser dogwood, and some red cedars along the wet areas. Many of these will be coppiced or cut down later on to add woody debris to the wetland areas to improve the overall habitat. The cedars and some other large trees will be left to ultimately provide the core habitat and shade. Around the ponds I may plant large fruit trees or nut trees assuming the area isn't too wet for them. I might grow native maples in some of these areas to provide a lot of shade so the ponds don't get too hot.
While I do hope to get a lot of food from these wet areas the priority will be the creation of wildlife habitat. I hope it becomes a magnet for all sorts of wildlife!
I will try to post a list of riparian plants native to this area later.
Thanks again for sharing Laura--always great to chat about this sort of thing!
Matt Todd wrote:I also identified some wild ginseng on my property, late last season when it had the red berries. I have tons of Virginia creeper too. The look similar above ground, but creeper will always have friends growing out of the same vine (that can CREEP for 50 feet underground before it pops up to say hello in your flower beds. I know ginseng to usually have the two inner most leaves smaller than the others (where creeper would have same sized leaves.) So that's a lot of words to say "I'm conflicted!" This page may help http://identifythatplant.com/virginia-creeper-and-ginseng/
Very helpful, thank you! When I look at it, those look like petioles to me in my pic :)
I DIDN'T know that it could creep like that underground. That's not great! We have one beautiful hand-built (by us) wooden shed, and one ugly, old metal one that came with the property, and I was thinking last night that I could cover the ugliness in Virginia creeper! But you guys are making me a little bit scared of it... I guess I'll have to wait until it either gives me red berries or eats my house... then I'll know for sure :)
Also, congrats on finding some actual wild ginseng!
Trace Oswald wrote:I have the thornless variety. I use them as shade trees because they make a really nice dappled shade, and as nitrogen fixers to be coppiced. I don't know how well that works though, my future coppice trees are far to small to be coppiced yet.
We have many honey locusts lining the street where we live, and while the main trees are thornless, the shoots that sprout up from the roots all over people’s yards are definitely not. I don’t know why that is, maybe the rootstock is not thornless. but you might want to be cautious not to end up with thorny branches if compiling.
I've heard that as well. I've planted all mine from seeds and never had one with thorns yet. I'll see if their suckers are thorny when they are big enough for that.
Diagnosed with Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever(RMSF) last July, and four months later (!?) Infectious Diseases specialist disputed the dx on grounds I should be dead. Symptoms can also mimick tetanus, Covid 19, etc. We've all been taught that a fungal growing environment is better than bacterial, and RMSF is a bacterial infection. I wonder if anyone knows of research that one such type would support tick populations more than the other?
Here's a story: Three years ago, I was admiring the scenery on a forested path in central Virginia. About the time my hiking fellows reached me I glanced over my shoulder and saw three, maybe four ticks sliding down on one of those strands that silkworms leave hanging in the trees. One tick was holding onto the line with a hind leg, his front paw securely fastened to the hind leg of another, who was holding onto another...My friend quickly picked them off me, but THAT was a truly amazing sight.
Wow Elle, I love the roses! One could even say it's got a "sort of" permaculture theme. Of course, while you were making your decision, this thread has taken on a life of its own, which is a good thing.
There are countries in the world where wearing a mask when out in public when there's a lot of sickness around, let alone a pandemic, is considered normal, responsible, kind behavior. The people of North America need to come together as a group and decide if they value that attitude, regardless of "we don't do that around here" history. There are *many* things that were considered normal behavior hundreds of years ago that humans have decided needed to change and have done so, and many more things we'd like them to change, like polluting rivers and abusing farmland. I think there are way better ways to accomplish those goals than shaming people.
Even with really good soil underneath trying to direct seed is more of a waste of seed than anything. Birds, rabbit and squirrels kick the chips all over the seed smothering them out before or shortly after germination.
My solution to the chips falling into the row that’s been seeded has been to pull the chips back, then ADD soil or rotted manure/compost to make a raised area (usually a row) a couple inches wide to plant the seeds (carrots, beets, lettuce, etc). So now my soil where the seeds got planted is at the same level or slightly higher than the wood chips. I don’t have much problem with birds or squirrels thanks to the COPs (cats on patrol), so that helps.
Where I use the chips as mulch, I do nothing else. Where I want to build soil, I top the chips with 2” of manure- any kind- in both spring and fall. If find 2” is about perfect for not being enough to let weeds grow in it, but deep enough to accelerate the decomposition of the chips.
For mulch, bigger chips are best. For soil building, chips with lots of leaves and twigs in the chip mix works better. You generally can’t pick and choose the loads you get, but it helps to know if entire trees are being chipped (large chips) or if they are doing a lot of pruning work (more leaves and twigs/small branches).
George Edgar wrote:I tried the cardboard and wood chips. As stated elsewhere, that is only good for one year at best. Being old and decrepit, I just let the weeds grow. But, recently, someone suggested I put down carpet. It lets the water through and kills the weeds. I was told I could get free carpet from carpet installers who pull out old carpet when installing new carpet. This sounds intriguing. So, what do others think of this idea? I am still trying to think through all of the ramifications. Thank you.
Seeds over the carpet can sprout and grow into/through it. If the carpet is under a lot of mulch or maybe buried a bit, I would guess there would be less of an issue. Not to say carpet is not useful, it DOES stop running roots from punching up through.
The paths between these beds all have a 3/4" carpet between them. Some areas got seeded and others are still fairly clear of growth.
Edit: Also, to the OP, on using cardboard. I think it is as safe as any commercially produced product. I have found that everything but staples and tape rot away nicely. I exclusively use brown undyed cardboard, as the colors/gloss maybe could possibly have heavy metals in them (? better safe than sorry?).
It did, I forgot to update this. The sharpening of the tines still isn't really even, but they really handled the situation well. My money was refunded for the stall fork and they sent a new garden fork. They didn't even ask me to return the old ones, or pay for shipping. I'm very happy with their customer service.
Make sure the roots stay wet, no matter what. While you don't want them standing in water for 4 days, that's better than them drying out -- even for a couple of hours. Wet paper towels work. Or as someone mentioned above, saw dust or composted wood chips work well. Best of all, if you had some well-aged compost or potting soil, go ahead and keep them in that. Nothing hot --- if you compost is high in N (like coffee grounds), it might burn the sensitive roots.
Keep the roots out of the sun until you plant them -- even while you're digging the hole.
They're a lot tougher than you might imagine, but they've already had their share of trauma, so putting them in some potting soil or compost while you wait to plant them would be good.
Wow, lucky lady... My basil, tomatoes, marigolds and kiwis got nipped and it hit 32. All were covered with buckets except the kiwi. But I think we're through the cold now (as I'm recovering from wheel barrowing 10 cubic yards of wood chips on a hot day). If I wanted it to be 89 degrees on June 2nd, I'd move to Illinois. Sheesh.
I bought 50 Blocking 14 crowns through this site over a year ago. I cut each one in half and let them grow over winter in trays and then planted in the spring. I had 90% success rate. Now they are very nice sized and I may dig some up but only after I plant all the other plants I now have going.
I was asked to expand on my comment about supporting raspberries:
I've used a number of systems, but the basic principle I try to follow is to have the wires (usually recycled clothesline wire) easy to remove and replace. This way when I need to prune, I can simply unhook the wire loop. In this case, a piece of board is held to a T-bar with some U-bolts and some cup-hooks hold the wire loop. There is a second one about 18 inches off the ground and the one pictured is about 4 ft, but some of the raspberries I've been growing are easily 6 ft tall. My neighbor prefers to cut his so that they are shorter, but my limiting factor is sunlight, so the taller they are, the better sun they get.
This particular set-up used metal clips that you bend onto the wire. When I can get them, I prefer "wire rope clips" which are miniature shaped u-bolts that are tightened with nuts and can be removed. I tend to move my raspberries around the garden every 5-7 years, so it's good to be able to change the system as things develop.
Hugo Morvan wrote:I'd like to use it in water control. Water is essential it's ok to put on a little solar pump and walk away, but if you forget to switch it off you're wasting water. It would be great to automatize these things. An Arduino can fail too, don't get me wrong, but probably not as many times as me.
I got an automatic door for the chickens that lived in the caravan. It opened in the morning a lot earlier than i would have opened it for them, but in nature, chickens are out at first light, because that is when the bugs go hiding, a lot of their protein comes from that moment. I forgot to check the batteries and apparently it was open constantly,at night a marter came in and killed all of them. If i had had some kind of battery low warning system that wouldn't have happened, but since it was pretty complicated as it was, to get that system working, i didn't do something like that. I didn't think of either, but that aside.
If a greenhouse gets hot an automated system to open the doors would come in handy. I'm sure it all exists already, but it would be nice to make it myself, so i can fix it as well. Chickenfeeder, automated.
I saw one little system that was even lower tech, which i am going to put to use when the new chickens come.
It's priceless to have things automated, i am a hobby farmer, i need to go to work, and it would be nice if things run smoothly so i don't have to do it after work or before.
For real farmers it's the same. My neighbor wants a system that uses the well water when it's above a certain level, pump on..but wants it to shut down when it comes below a certain level so it doesn't suck up muck. And still you can walk away in stead of doing chores closeby and maybe forgetting when an emergency arrives.
Stuff like that. Maybe i'm dreaming, i wouldn't know, but i guess these systems will be worth a buck for farmers to install. Bridging the gap between the cheapest chinese stuff which breaks and the fanciest systems that cost a fortune. Stuff custom made.
Me being me, i started to worry the farmers would deplete the watertable. And the love for electronics was over when i just got too busy with a new project outside, but it's just shelved.
Those some like some awesome applications for sure!
I am hoping to become a hobby farmer as well, at least until I learn enough to be completely self sufficient and only need to work to acquire the non essential things.
I did just discover a possible way to acquire some land in a non conventional way so I may write a post about this soon, if one hasn't been done already.
I just wanted to send a quick reply before I hit the hay. Look forward to sharing our experiences in the future!
Eric Hanson wrote:
Also, is it your plan to dig up that whole area?
That is the plan. I'm hoping to add a couple more beds this weekend. I'm behind on these because I have another garden 65'x75' that I have planted with potatoes, onions, corn and I'm trying to get it fenced so I can get my squash in too. I lost last weekend to rain. I have too much clay in my soil to dig when it's wet, it just makes bricks.
Anne Pratt wrote: You might arrange to give fresh produce to your local food pantry, if you have one.
Anne, we do have a small food pantry here. And that is a great idea, so thank you for that.