The Environmental Commissioner of Ontario (ECO) is cautioning the Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry (MNRF) that assessment changes by the Municipal Property Assessment Commission (MPAC) are likely to be detrimental to the forests of Ontario. The MNRF manages a program called the Managed Forest Tax Incentive Program (MFTIP) which offers a property tax reduction for landowners who join the program in exchange for following the prescribed forest management practices of the MNRF. The program, introduced in 1997, is very popular with more than 10,700 landowners participating by 2004.
The problem, according to the ECO, is that another branch of the Ontario government is jeopardizing the program by changing the assessment rules. Around 2003, MPAC began changing its methods of assessing managed forests such that they were assessed for their potential value for residential or commercial development rather than at the same rate, as promised by MNRF in 1997, as farmlands.
Great tool. Used one a lot as a youngster.
We took apart a wood frame greenhouse nail by nail to reassemble elsewhere without damaging the glass panes or the frame.
The slide is meant to drive one hook below the level of the nail head.
These are awesome. Everyone has asked for the recipe I found online.
5 seed crackers
1 cup sunflower seeds
3/4 cup pumpkin seeds
1/2 cup chia seeds
1/2 cup sesame seeds, (I used a mix of black and white sesame seeds)
1/4 cup flaxseed, (linseed)
1 tsp salt
1 1/2 cups water
1 tbsp dried herbs of your choice, ( thyme?)
1 tsp chilli flakes, (optional)...NOTE .....this seems a lot.. I used 1/4 tsp powder
Preheat oven to 170C (340F) fanbake.
Mix all ingredients together and leave for 10-15 minutes for the seeds to soak up the water.
Give everything a good stir, then split the mixture over two lined baking trays and spread thinly. The ideal thickness is about 3-4mm(1/4" or less) . Too thin and the crackers will be very fragile, too thick and they'll be more like a seed cookie than a cracker.
Bake for one hour (switching the trays around halfway through), or until golden brown and crisp. If they don't feel crisp after an hour, return to the oven for another 5-10 minutes.
Remove from the oven, allow to cool, then break into irregular shards or cut. Store in an airtight container.
I always thought the best way would be to dig a trench till you find moist sand, then stand logs in the trench to a foot below the surface and fill.
All the water wicking channels in the log are lengthwise and it should wick the moisture up to the other end of the log.... in theory.
@ Thomas - The Ego saw is a great product. Very happy with it. Battery life is surprisingly good (in fairness though it has half the kerf of a standard saw). My only complaint would be the oil level window. ... useless.
The Ego is not designed to accept any standard blade as the trimmer head supplies cooling air for the head mounted motor (I think). I'm not familiar with your trimmer, sorry.
All these electric trimmers are lighter duty than the gas ones so we need to be careful not to overstress their capacity. String is forgiving when you hit something solid.
I originally bought a grass gator (with the 3 pivoting plastic blades) but it isn't going to cut the saplings I'm dealing with so I rejected that pretty quickly. A pivoting blade type head isn't a bad idea though when you run into solid objects.
I've watched vids of blades on trimmers and they take such a big bite they're barely controllable. This design seems to limit the cutting depth for each tooth so I'm thinking less stress when you hit those thumb sized saplings.
This mod should allow me to use any blade with a 1" hole. If need be another spacer could be made for other sizes.
I bought one of these trimmers and I'm very happy with it but it falls just a bit short on the light brush. I wanted to try some kind of a bush blade. The hardware is (for the most part) easy to find.
In the background is the blade I chose. It has a 1" hole.
1. Looking at the trimmer it looks like these vanes are to cool the motor - we'll need that feature. This means you're going to have to sacrifice a trimmer head to make this work. After buying a new one I went to work on the old.
2. OEM hardware
3. 1/4" fender washer (1" OD)
4. 1/4" fender washer bored to 5/16 ID NOTE: It was just a shade bigger than the 1" OD needed. I snugged the washer on a 5/16" bolt, chucked that in a drill and ran it over a file until it was a snug fit.
5. 5/16 shoulder washer (thicker than the OEM part, same OD)
6. (not shown here) 5/16 fender washer - greater than 1" OD.
Need to cut off all of the string head but the base. This initial setup was wrong. You need to cut on the line in the pic removing about half of the raised boss just below the square hole.
I shouldn't have to remind you that the number of fingers you have should be the same before and after you complete this step.
Now you have this and the center section needs to be brought to the same height. Sandpaper on a flat surface and work carefully, rotating often, checking for square. If this isn't square your blade is going to wobble. Take your time.
Brought down to the same height as the 5/16 shoulder washer. (#5)
Sure you could but .. why?
Storage buildings have no need of the one great advantage of straw bale.... insulation. The 2 ft thick walls are a disadvantage to you plus your humid climate isn't the best for straw bale.
Greg Martin wrote:Joseph, if you want to try some good ones to find out how much you like them I really recommend buying frozen wild blueberries. For cooking applications they are not worse than using freshly picked berries in my opinion. Not sure if they sell them near you or not, but here in Maine Wyman's wild blueberries are in all the supermarkets. They harvest them in downeast Maine from fields that are carpeted in a ground cover of the wild lowbush plants (I'm fairly certain that none of these have been planted so it's all natural genetics). One of my favorite things to do with them is blend them with fresh elderberries (2 parts wild blueberries to 1 part elderberries) to make a pie.
Only ones I can tell are wild and cultivated, wild always much better.
We always had the seat hanging in the warm. I'll admit that nowadays I'm getting soft and have started using a sawdust bucket/humanure setup in the very cold. Just bring the bucket inside and back out again. A propane lantern is enough to keep a bathroom sized place warm enough to take the chill off. I don't think I'd want to leave a candle unattended.
Thought about it a lot. I think you want to be below ground so the cold pools. And why haul ice? You can make it on the spot in suitable containers...2 liter bottles? 45 gal? Saves all that hauling and stacking.
You would just need airflow around your containers when the weather is cold enough to encourage heat transfer.. 2 l bottles standing.. sheet of plywood.. another layer of bottles... etc .. exhaust fan and just open the door when it gets cold outside.
Seems a perfect fit for the north side of your house.
I've had something of a change of heart recently.
I had an audiobook, How Not to Die. I'm not going to preach here but it's convinced me to try and make vegan work.
He has a website - actual results from scientific studies ... before the results get sanitized for public consumption. This is truly the best "food as medicine" resource I've ever found.
I try to compost em right on the spot where I'll use them. I take a 10' length of welded wire fence and turn it into a temporary compost bin. Each will hold at least 7 leaf bags, 3 or 4 more as it heats up. Keep adding till it gets too cold.
In the spring lift the fence off and there will be a central core of nice compost. Fork the remaining leaves into another wire bin for another round.
I have been burning this stove for 4 years now and this is the first I have had any problems
What has changed?
A new building close enough to disturb airflow? Nearby trees grown taller than the chimney? New batch of wood that isn't quite dry?
As for inside, a pair of 45's would smooth the transitions in direction as best you can to get through the wall.
Outside, if there's something creating a downdraft like a new building nearby you might try extending the chimney.
If you burn slow fires and it's a single wall chimney you could try a shroud around the outside chimney to retain some of the heat, keep the wind from cooling it off too much.... careful how much weight you're adding.
I have them growing native in 5b. North shore of Lake Ontario. I got a bunch started in 4b and they seem to be OK, they all survived a tough winter. If you're close to the south border and near large water for the slightly warmer micro climate maybe you can make it work. Go ahead and try. You might be in zone 5 in time.
I noticed too how the garlic in the pickles retained it's bite.
I'm taking all those leftovers from the garlic harvest and covering them with the pickle brine and back in the fridge. It's so fast to just dip in the jar for a few cloves without peeling.
I'm interested in the clockwork mechanism as well but for a different project. In this case though couldn't you let the sun do the work?
If your exhaust pipe had an extension that was in the sun, when the pipe warmed it would create it's own updraft. A flapper valve prevents back flow.
If it's not enough pull put a solar collector around the pipe to get the temps higher.
With careful use of shading from the sun you could vent for a few hours in the morning and a few more in the evening.
Trace Oswald wrote:I think people all want the same thing. Someone that loves them, supports them, is attracted to them, makes them feel secure, and respects them. Beyond that, I want a partner that is smart and funny and has her own mind. I don't want subservience, or a boss. I want an equal. Someone to share my life with, not to rule over, or be ruled by.
I'll agree with the above but add competence. The only real skill my (soon to be) former partner developed was to refine her ability to get others to do things for her.
I'm no engineer either but I'm trying to think of the practical aspects of the installation. Good luck getting any manufacturer to sign off on it.
A masonry stove is great. You can't really burn a wood fire cool enough (or short enough duration) for heating our homes so like a RMH you're trying to capture some of the heat lost up the flue. Again, it's to capture heat that would otherwise just be lost up the chimney. Modern gas burners are pretty darn efficient and there isn't that much heat lost. To make the thing work like a wood stove the burner will run steady for .. an hour? 2? So you'll use more propane than you need.
How will you regulate temperature? Think where your thermostat is. Sensing room temp as a normal thermostat? The burner will run for a very long time before the room warms. Probably now the lag time has been so long you'll get a large overshoot on the temperature so it's too hot. So you'll use more propane than you need.
What if you just have a sensor on the stove itself? Might work but doesn't take into account the variations you get from a warm day or a cold one. Windy day or not. So you'll use more propane than you need. Or worse, some cold windy night a water pipe in the corner will freeze even though the mass is at your chosen temperature.
A separate install with a normal room thermostat will heat the air just enough and then cycle off. It will take into account whether it's daytime and the sun is beaming in or a windy night, only using just enough gas to maintain room temp. The thermal mass of the stove will still do it's job, toning down those fluctuations in temperature.
What might be a good idea though is to have the stove close enough to a window that the sun can shine in and passively store some of that heat on a sunny day.
Here's the real bonus as I see it. Those long winter nights would be so much nicer if when the wood fire burned down in the middle of the night and you're faced with getting up in the dark to toss another log on you heard the propane burner kick on ... just roll over for another hour or two. It would heat the air just enough till you get up and stoke the fire again.
Could you run the exhaust pipe from a propane burner through the mass? Maybe but if it has to be inspected and approved.... good luck. Too much moisture in the gases to use the same flue as the wood burner I think.
Perhaps more than just a few grains of salt might be used in light of the above post. Oh do please explain why rainwater can't be filtered through a Berkey. It's already the purest source.
The Berkey water filter system is so powerful it is classified as a purifier. This classification shows that we far exceed the abilities of the standard water filter. The portable Berkey can be used to filter non-potable or unhealthy water in situations where electricity and pressure are not available. For normal everyday water from your faucet or for challenging environments like wells, rivers, and lakes, Berkey is the most flexible and adaptable filtering system available.
The Berkey Water Filter System is Revolutionary
Through diligent testing and research, we have proven that Berkey water filters remove viruses to purification standards, pathogenic bacteria, cysts and parasites to undetectable levels, and harmful or unwanted chemicals to below detectable levels. Until these test results were made public, words like non-detectable were seldom if ever used to describe the abilities of a water filter to remove harmful pollutants.
Well you did ask... If it were me .... at this point I would call it another "what the hell was I thinking" and put up drywall like you could have in the beginning. Still wet wood you'll be chasing widening gaps and cracks for dunno how long and you've already spent more time on this than if you just put up drywall. And will continue to spend time as the gaps widen.
They didn't exactly say that low carb diets will make you die younger. They said "People who a moderate amount of carbohydrates live longer". They also said "Researchers believe this is because low carb dieters eat more animal products".
If you were to increase your consumption of factory produced, GMO fed, grocery store bought meat, that was also raised on little but corn it's no surprise to me you would be facing an earlier death.
A dog is your best protection. They're more alert than we are to threats.
Aside from that just surviving an attack isn't enough. You have to completely dominate in order to come out unscathed. 12 gauge, #4 buckshot. Accept no substitutes. You only get one shot at this.
Since Paleo worked so well for me I've been interested in why.
One theory is that the farther north your genes evolved the more meat (and especially the less carbs) your body can tolerate.
If you are of Inuit descent, your genes are a product of natural selection, those who needed carbs in their diet never got them, weren't as healthy, didn't reproduce as vigorously, and died of chronic condition. The ones that are left to become "Inuit" are genetic meat eaters and continue to pass those genes down.
But if you give them a north American diet ... it pretty much kills most of them off. (all except those few who wouldn't have done well on a pure meat and fat diet)
If you were from a region of agriculture, those who couldn't digest the cereal grains didn't survive to reproduce well so everyone that was left were the ones who could tolerate them. That the less active peoples of those cultures (using grains) become unhealthy and pack on the fat in old age tells me it still isn't healthy, just tolerated.
My theory is to look where your genes originated (much tougher now with the world's population scattered and interbred) and there is an 80% probability that is an indicator of how many carbs your genes are naturally selected for to use as fuel and how much plant content you should look to.
None of us evolved to eat grains but since we came from those smart little monkeys we learned to make them edible, but as wild animals we wouldn't have done that. All carbs would have been vegetable sourced.
Sorry but it seems like you're missing some basics here. Or maybe I'm missing something.
You use a masonry heater because you're trying to capture the excess heat you produce that is lost up the flue. Wood fires can't make just a little heat, nor can they cycle on and off to keep the temperature relatively stable.
This isn't the case with a modern propane burner. They make just enough heat by design. Very little is wasted.
All you're going to accomplish is to burn a lot more propane than you need to if you use it to heat a thermal mass.
Yes its going to be a huge problem if you use ground water. You can clean out chemically with vinegar or a product like CLR (phosphoric acid I think). Mechanical means are going to result in bent metal and leaks. The real answer is distilled water - that stuff that falls from the sky is all distilled, no minerals.
I use the ground water as potable. Rainwater for everything else especially dish washing, showers etc.
Common problems in fermenting.
#1- Something was in contact with the air.
Your old crock has a crack or chip where nasty bacteria resides.
Too much washing in chlorinated water killed off enough of your starter bacteria that something else took over.
I used a very simple recipe of 2 tablespoons sea salt dissolved in 1 quart water(cooled some), garlic, dill plants. Grape leaves because I had them but they aren't critical.
Cukes rinsed in rainwater or at least a sink of hot water, allowed to cool and off gas.
Refrigerate a few days and they'll get crispy.
The crock, in this case glass, with a well fitting ceramic weight keeps everything submerged.
After 3 days I pulled a couple of pickles out to test, not quite ready yet. Cloudy brine is normal. I filled the hole with Mexican mini cukes and green beans.