If my goal was to end up "doing permaculture," as in example working and living in an intentional community or working for a permaculture organization, etc... but (wait for it) I don't garden or know plants or any of it, where would I start? I have contacted Oregon State University to ask about their horticulture program with additional training in permaculture as a possibility. I am 55 years old and I am thinking about pulling up and heading in a totally new direction. Any suggestions? I have a professional degree so the idea of spending 4 years at an institution is comforting to me. Thanks for any suggestions.
I will add that I am physically fit, free of any health issues, execise regularly, etc... so feel that I am "up to the task."
Hello, I ordered Jeff Lawton's 5 DVD set online on December 27th and it has not come yet. I am in Michigan, they are coming from Australia. Does 12 days seem like a long time to any of you? Have any of you waited this long (or longer)? Yeah, I know, I am anxious. They will probably come tomorrow (I hope, I hope).
I bought some "organic" fertilizer called Chickity Doo Doo http://www.chickitydoodoo.com/ I am hoping it will be good for the lawn and help build soil micororganisms, etc.. Also, our city has a compost site for city residents. I have heard a few people say they wouldn't use it bacause they didn't know where the stuff came from, etc... I figure anything has to be better than what I have. 10 years ago this was new sod, weed free, etc... after years of chemicals it is mostly dandilions and weeks. I am hoping to bring it around with some organic TLC
Thanks for all the great ideas. It turns out I have a bunch of seeds from a club I joined and searched the list for perennials. Came up with a bunch of Herbs: Rosemary Lovage Broadleaf Sage Greek Oregano Hyssop Red Garnet Amaranth Thyme Tarragon Echinacea. I'll use what I have. I like the chive and onion idea as well.
We put some apple, plum and peach trees in last fall. Little spindly sticks, maybe 2 to 3 ft. tall. Should I be planting something else around the base of these trees? If so, what and where will I find it? The confrey in the posted video is taller than the little sticks I have planted, would that matter?
Daniel Truax wrote:20 - 40 hours suggests that you are choking it down and a lot of gas isn't being oxidized all the way.
And then when you do crank this baby open and get closer to 100% combustion too much heat is going out your chimney.
I like stoves that burn efficiently and don't send all the BTUs outside to do it.
Daniel, a catalytic stove burns cleaner (lower emissions) at a lower temperature than a stove with secondary combustion. So, yes, you choke the stove down to a smolder while the catalyst does its job burning the gasses and particulates in the smolder from the wood. Blaze King has a video on their site (http://youtu.be/jBSNWKI-d-A ) which explains some of this. Catalytic stoves send less heat up the chimney than secondary combustion stoves.
We are wroking to install a Blaze King Princess model catalytic wood stove for next year. These stoves have an automatic damper and very long burn times (20 - 40 hours depending on the model) There is a lot of information about Blaze King and other brands at : http://www.hearth.com/talk/ The Blaze King web site is: http://www.blazeking.com/
I am not affiliated with either site or company. I hope this is appropriate under the banner of "wood burning stoves."
Yone' Ward wrote:I opened my yap on this subject a couple weeks ago on you tube and got a reply I couldn't answer properly right away, so I sat down with my think book and created a video on metal & rocket stoves. I am now wondering if any of you see any fact boo boos in the video, cause I like to be correct when I go and flap my lip.
Wow, you put a lot of time into this. I am curious why no one has replied yet. I bought one of those little "rocket stoves" in a bucket. Waste of moola in my opinion. Good hype/promotion/advertising though.
I have a rural property, 25 miles out. There is plenty of firewood there. Has anyone done the math on what is more efficient, a large truck hauling a large load (very low miles per gallon but bigger payload) or a smaller vehicle that may take two trips to haul the same amont of wood?
paul wheaton wrote: How quickly can you get lumber?
I see that they have an electrical unit - very nice!
how much would a mill cost?
What is the size of the kerf?
Therse are not production mills. There are videos on YouTube showing the cutting speed. I am type A and find it fast enough that I don't get bored. There are Bd Ft/day numbers quoted somewhere I might be able to find. The price depends on what you want (M-5 $2000, M-7 $2699 Woodworkers Mill $2378, all without the saw). You might be able to put a saw on that you already have or purchase locally. The electric powerheads are around $2500. Saw kerf is about 1/4" but as soon as you cut up one log that is odd sized or a specialty piece (crotch, etc..) that couldn't be cut at a commercial mill, you have rocovered your loss to kerf. Plus the sawdust is fantastic for humanure compost use.
Paul, have you considered the Logosol mill? http://www.logosol.us/sawmills/ Very versatile, work is done at waist height (much easier on low back), nothing to sbumble over (watching the swing blade operate I see many trip hazards). Logosol chain is easy to sharpen, inexpenisve to replace, many local saw shops for saw parts/repair, etc... I have owned mine since 1999. Cut is smooth. Mill is light and easy to transport.
Essiac http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essiac A friend lent me a book and by the middle of the book it all turned to documentation; letters from Medical Organizations, Gov Agencies (Canadian), etc... I found it credible due to the documentation.
A metaphor I use with patients goes like this; You place a dimmer switch in line on a row of receptacles (outlets). You plug in 3 different computers. The first, a Dell, the second a HP, etc... After starting the computers, the dimmer switch is turned down, say 30%. The first computer, the Dell, has a screen malfunction. Sizes, shapes, colors vary. The computer is still "on" but there is something obviously wrong with the screen function. Next in this example, an expert researcher is hired to sit at the computer and make note of every variance from normal he or she can document. Eventually, an exhaustive list of malfunctions with the screen is compiled. The next step, is to develop a think tank of experts to make suggestions on how do get the most use out of this Dell computer. The best solution developed is an information guide with sets of stickers to apply to the keyboard for different programs. With a Word program, success of the “treatment” is 91%, meaning the stickers and guide will allow the computer to do 91% of the functions of a normal computer using Word. If any other computers are discovered around the world with this particular constellation of screen abnormalities, it is called Dells Disease and the treatment is considered 91% effective. The question being asked here is “what is the best treatment for Dells Disease?” There is another possible question. “Is there anything that could be done to restore the computer to its design potential?” From this perspective, by far the majority of medical care is aimed at asking the question about treatment for disease, NOT restoring health (design potential). It is obvious in the above metaphor what the design potential solution is, to turn the line voltage back up to 100%. An example of this can be illustrated with cholesterol. If cholesterol comes down in a patient after a program of vigorous exercise, then their high cholesterol was a correlate of inadequate exercise. Treating with drugs supports the body in the diseased state (“what is the best treatment for high cholesterol”) vs. the other question “what would make this patient healthier?” A: exercise.