I don't know the age of the trees other than mixed. I do have about 10 large black walnut trees. But otherwise, there are a few big, old trees and lots of other size trees. I know, not a very precise answer but it is the best of my knowledge. This is not a mature forest. I belive sometime in the past (maybe 40+ years ago) that the area might have been grazed. Thus the few big old trees and lots of brushy stuff otherwise. I do know nothing has been done in the past 20 years except the areas near my house where I harvest dead or bent trees for the little bit of firewood I use.
I have about 5 acres of mixed woodland with underbrush that I want to take a more active role in managing. To date, I haven't done much beyond cutting dead trees for firewood and clearing paths to be able to walk around. Any tips on the first steps toward better managing this would be appreciated. My goals are a modist amount of firewood and some green wood for green woodworking projects.
Strike appears to be the solution I was looking for. It uses the Bitcoin Lightning network on the back end and even a merchant account has very low fees, something in the 1%-2% range with no minimum like PayPal.
Has anyone tried building the burn tunnel out of clay chimney flue? You would need some specialized tools to cut it to form the turns for the wood feed and the start of the riser, but I have access to those. From what I've read the heat riser gets really hot (goal is 2,000-degree range) but I don't know how far down into the burn tunnel that heat gets.
For a double stack of barrels, how high does the heat riser go? I bought Paul & Mud's e-book on heat risers and assume the 5-minute riser is the way to go for this application. But the book doesn't address if it is important to have the heat riser within X% of the top of what ever barrel you have.
I have a metal 20' x 20' building that I use as a workshop (Versatube carport) in S.E. MI. I need to provide some quick heat for a couple of hours during sessions in the spring and fall. I'm following Uncle Mud's cottage rocket and it looks like it is the solution for me, but I have a couple of questions. I do like the vertical footprint as it takes up less floor space.
Is there a reason the feed tube is inside the circle of the drum? It looks like that would really limit the length of the wood you can put in. Is there any reason why the feed tube couldn't be moved outside the barrel?
Also, do I need anything besides the heat riser in the barrel? I don't think I need mass as I'll be in the workshop for an hour or two and then I'll be done.
I will not be using this during the coldest months of the year so what size system should I work towards? 6"?
I'm open to any suggestions that would provide a solution for me.
I may have a contender for this use. Taylor Dunn has made electric utility carts for decades, mainly for industrial uses. I just picked up a B2-48 that was made in 2005. It already has a solid-state controller. One downside is there isn't a lot of room between the seat and the steering wheel and foot pedals. If you are a large-frame person you might have problems. However, they are considered bulletproof. The one I got is rated to carry something like 3,000 lbs and tow 12,500 lbs. That is probably on a level paved surface, but still that is more than I will ever need for work around my homestead. There are configurations available with a 2nd row of seats and I think they will fold down to a larger flatbed.
Pure speculation here - back when cloth was significantly more expensive for the average working person having a dual-purpose item (outwear & blanket) would make sense. However, now that we are in the age of mechanical cloth production the cost has plummeted (relative to income) so everyone can have a blanket for their bed and a coat to wear. Also a cloak is much easier to make than a coat.
Setting aside fashion considerations (someone likes the look of a cloak better than a coat) I'm not sure a cloak functions better at keeping you warm during outside activities than a coat.
One of my Paw Paw trees looks to be dead all of a sudden. It appeared fine a week ago and now the leaves are wilted and brown. There is another paw paw only 10' away and it appears fine. Any idea what happened?
I have to think that it would be better to have the solar panels mounted that are optimized to collect the sun and feed a stand-alone battery bank and then use that to charge the golf cart batteries as needed. With the solar panel on the golf cart once those batteries are full the solar power can't go anywhere. I guess if you use it every day and use some of the power then it might not be an issue.
Due to a charger failure and a trickle draw I have six GC-2 batteries that are completely dead. They had been lightly used for several years prior to this. Any advice on rescuing them? My smart charger will not even start up when hooked up to these batteries.
Didn't build any. I decided I didn't want to take on several departments of making you sad to dig in wetlands and near a creek. I still think it would be a great idea and greatly improve the ecology of the area. But there isn't any accepted research to support my desires.
I have been staring out the window at the falling snow all day. Looking at the barn in the distance. I bet I could close off one end of the loft area with a solid sheet of plywood... and put 4 of these hives next to each other up there in that small space.
I would still insulate it up there since it gets so hot during the summer. Just vent it to the outside and all should be well. Even well protected during things like general hurricane remnant blowing through.
Check out Slovenian Beekeeping for ideas around hives built into a building
I don't have anything against Golf Carts, but I would want one with the flatbed on the back rather than golf club holders. However, I'm having trouble finding one of those used. I want electric so I don't have to maintain a gas engine
I have 10 acres of mixed woods, lawn, wet areas, and tall grasses. I want to be able to haul around tools and materials and pull a small trailer. A great option would be an inverter to power tools. I have such a hard time finding anything used that is not just a golf cart. Searching for UTV produces results that are mainly used for off-roading fun. I'm not sure if I'm just searching wrong or what I'm looking for doesn't exist.
I would be interested in a discussion on creating pasture in general and specific to Dexters. I have a 5-acre area that is maybe half woods and half savannah-ish grass area. Keeping in mind that cows number 2-5 are not much more work than your first cow, what should I look to do for 3 Dexter steers. I know the whole area needs perimeter fencing and some kind of shelter. I'm in S.E. MI so what does that mean for winter feeding?
The topography of my parcel means that this is close to the lowest point in the land. It is river bottom land (well really creek bottom) but from what I've observed I only need a few inches of verticle height to get the flood protection I need.
I would like to create a market garden in a space of about 1 acre. The problem with this area is that it floods once or twice a year. The area is in a bit of a depression so when there are heavy rains then the ground becomes waterlogged. I assume the solution is raised beds, but if there are other options I would like to hear about them.
If I do raised beds I would like recommendations on size and spacing along with considerations for larger aisles. Another design consideration is if these were to serve as community garden plots instead of a market garden.
Interesting that mini-trucks are now available out of China. This looks like a great option for the homestead/farm. Street legal as a NEV. However, I couldn't find anyone that has had one and used it for any length of time. As a product, the specs are right on the money, I don't know if this implementation is any good or not.
I have one of the metal carports that I've put sidewalls on. This barrel style would work well for my application (fast heat for a couple of hours while I'm out there working). Any plans available yet?
I'm looking to dig a well for irrigation purposes and to provide water to my chickens. I have two location options "The high ground" and "The Low Ground".
The High Ground:
This area is near my house. I built the house so I was there when the basement was dug. There is about 7' of pure sand, 2'-3' layer of clay and below the clay a rocky, graveling area with plenty of water in it. My basement floor sits at the top of this clay layer. It is a walkout basement and the 4' deep frost wall at the walkout end goes below the clay layer. I have a perimeter drain at the bottom of this frost wall that I ran away from the house until it came to the surface. It has water flowing out of it most, if not all of the time. I have a sump pump, that while it always has water in it, rarely runs. This is due to the fact that the perimeter drain on the buried side of the basement connects with the lower walkout side drain. Therefore the water can just flow downhill until the drain tile comes to the surface.
I've considered just trying to pump the sump crock into a pressure tank. This would keep the pump and related equipment inside and protected from Michigan winters. I think it would work with a small pump and a large tank. There would have to be a sensor so the pump wouldn't run if the sump was low on water. My understanding is you cannot have a well in your basement, which is a shame because I only need to go about 4' below the floor level of the basement to be in a water-bearing layer.
Another option would be to drive a sand point down to just above the clay layer (about 7' down) outside the house. There should be water there as I'm on the low side of a mile of a gradual drop in elevation. I could put a pump and tank in the basement, again to protect from freezing. If that didn't work I could drive point another 5' - 10' and get into the water layer below the clay. It should still be shallow enough for a suction pump.
The Low Ground
This area has a high water table (2'-ish below the surface) and is where the garden and chickens are. I don't know much about what is underground except for digging post holes 3.5' deep and having them fill with water up to about 18"-24" from the surface. It was sandy loam at the surface with some clay as I got deeper. I've considered getting an extension for my post hole auger and going down 10' and putting in a piece of PVC pipe and pumping from that. But I have no idea if the water would flow in fast enough to feed a pump. Plus I have the hassle of needing to pull the pump and any tank in the fall. Additionally, power in this area isn't as good as close to the house.
Another option would be to get a low flow pump and pump uphill to an IBC and then gravity feed down to the garden. This would allow the "well" to recharge fast enough to supply the low flow pump. But my house is at the highest point of the property so I couldn't water the flowers planted around the house with IBC Tank water.
Information from the Permis community would be appreciated.