First off your new puppy is going to require lots of socialization. The Cane Corso are a guardian breed and if not exposed to people, etc when young the can become reactive as adults. For training yes start with a plain collar, a clicker and some treats... Many dogs really dislike head collars and will shut down, a few will go crazy and can harm themselves trying to get out of them. I can highly recommend Sue Ailsby book Training Levels, Steps to Success. It will probably be unlike any training book you have read before but if you read it and follow it you will end with a fantastic dog. You can find the book here https://sue-eh.ca/product/training-levels/
Food the goal is to keep the puppy lean but not malnourished and to ensure the proper amount of calcium is in the diet. Too much can be as harmful as not enough so it can be hard to get it right when feeding raw or home made diets but it is possible. Remember your girl will probably take up to 3 years to fully mature and can be well over 100 pounds when mature. That is a lot of bone and muscle to build so she may eat a lot more then you expect as a puppy but taper off drastically when mature.
Good luck with your pup I will be looking forward to seeing your adventures .
IF it is bubbling it is still working... maybe split it next feeding. One half feed and set aside until tomorrow and see how it is doing. Other half continue as you have been doing see if there is a difference. I noticed last time I forgot mine it took longer to see a rise then normal. I would feed, set aside and feet again the next day it slowly got more active and starting the big rises again. Think of it like reactivating dried starter.
My fig cuttings were growing leaves then it dropped into the 40s again but climbed right back to record high of 92 for a couple of days. Last night back down to the 40s sigh my poor plants don't know if they should be shivering or swearing at the wind and sun.
Wry grin one way to test for cold tolerance... note that a cold front is moving through but not that the low would be in the upper 40s.... everyone looks fine this morning but we will have to see how long the tomatoes sulk before taking off again.
I have 3 varieties of runner beans I am trying this year. Two are mainly ornamental (Painted Lady and Black Coat) that are listed as having good pod production and flavor and one is a white flowered version called Flavourstar that was developed for eating qualities more then flowers. It will be interesting to see how they do in our climate this year.
For those wanting a smaller runner bean Hestia is considered a dwarf that supposedly only grows up to 14 inches.
Here in the US finding something other then the plain Scarlet Runner Bean can take time but there are some out there. My seeds came from Pinetree and Vermont Bean Company.
I know a person in the Micro Tomato Diversity Project who is going to be trying his hand at bringing in some of those genes to his micro dwarfs. He and another member have talked about making decorative micro dwarf tomatoes. ie novel leaf types, larger flowers, different colors in the flowers, etc. as a way to attract folks who would never think of growing tomatoes.
My goals are more about taste and ease of growing them both outside in summer and inside during the winter. The group is set up similar to the Dwarf project so we have our projects plus if we want to work on the bigger group project we can. I started last year by growing out F2 seeds from someone else (that is where Steak Sauce came from) and this year I will try some crosses of my own as well as continuing the grow outs from the F2 seeds I was sent. I am learning so much :)
But also to say that "fuzzy" can be your friend. Breeding and genetic 'accidents' are the raw material of improvement and delight, along with curious observation, for seed saving as clearly Joseph and others here demonstrate.
I am hoping some of that "fuzzy" will keep working with the line of micro dwarfs I am currently growing. My inexperience showed this winter and I lost most of my starting plant but not before a couple had produced some to me extraordinary tasting tomatoes. My current crop are all the seeds I had from one of those plants/tomatoes that I dubbed Steak Sauce. My first bite of that tomato had me wondering how I had gotten steak sauce on it. Fast forward I have 15 plants that I grew from seeds of that tomato. 3 currently have tomatoes on them that are ripening... I can hardly wait to see if I got lucky and they also have that flavor.
On the other extreme this year I will be playing with whites with fruity flavors and one described as having a unique flavor. Crossing them onto a pink micro dwarf with a very mild almost nonexistent flavor that I described in my notes from last year as a bag of water inside a tomato skin...
Why not do both? After all I imagine there is more then one flower on the plant... Bag a couple to get self fertilized seeds and emasculate a couple and use the pollen from the dense tomato on them. Also make a reciprocal cross with pollen from your big flowered plant to the dense tomato. That would give you 3 lines to grow on and see what they are like next year.
My project right now are micro dwarf tomatoes. Crossing them to selected tomatoes that include dwarfs, determinates and indeterminates. As you said once we get a plant we really like we then grow their seeds out for 8 generations so they produce tomatoes that are all alike. So yes the seeds that get sold for our new varieties are already inbred.
On the other hand anything that I breed for my own garden can be as mixed up and wild as I want. Plans for this year include attempting to cross a couple of different micro dwarfs to Amish Yellowish Orange Oxheart. This variety was among those tested by the Heritage Food Crops Research Trust and it was found to have the highest levels of cis-lycopene among all the tested varieties. I was lucky enough to get the seeds for it in a seed swap and I am hoping to bring those genetics into a micro dwarf I can grow inside during the winter.
I am in Wyoming so while we can get hot during the day our nights even when we hit 90 can drop to the low 60s... we also have wind lots and lots of wind. I had most of my micro dwarfs in 1 or 2 gallon grow bags with a few in 6 inch pots and 3 in a single 30 inch deck planter. I did notice they are a more sensitive to poor soil which as you mentioned seems to come from the size of their root ball and they don't have the strength to push roots though heavy clay. Once I swapped out that stuff for good light soil that plant took off and gave a nice harvest. I know the newest varieties I have were developed in Florida so should be able to handle heat a bit better then some of the older varieties.
Spring didn't happen here as in we dropped below 50 a couple of nights last week so I am just now getting my tomato seedlings out which has delayed my micro dwarfs as I didn't have room to start them. And more delays as I have a trip the end of the month and will be gone a week. Really hoping winter holds off till October so I have a chance to cross Rosy Finch (pink micro dwarf) to Amish Yellowish Orange Oxheart and to a couple of white varieties I am growing.
Just curious if my tinies would be considered a good fit. I found out about the micro dwarf tomatoes last year and fell in love. Mine were all under 18 inches tall with most being only 10 to 12 inches tall. One of my 8 inch tall plants produced over 70 nice sized cherry tomatoes! Yes I saved seed from that one. Currently many varieties are a lacking in flavor but many folks are working on taste, size and the ability to produce good tasting tomatoes in the middle of winter under lights. One vision of the micro dwarf is to live in your house "poaching" the light and heat you already produce to give you fresh cherry tomatoes all winter. (Some are actually working on lines producing almost saladette size tomatoes but mine are all cherry size)
Right now I am growing out some F3 from another breeder but I am hoping to make some crosses of my own this summer.
Cell phone spam calls are limited now that Verizon has there we don't recognize that number feature. Which actually backfired when my son in law tried to reach me when I was in their town for a visit...
Land line AGH We are both disabled vets and both get calls from the VA about appointments, lab results, etc only about half actually come over as VAMC calls the other are totally unknown out of area numbers. So that means we now grab all incoming calls in case it is one of those.
it reminds me of the Squash pie my great aunt used to make from crookneck squash... hers looked a bit more translucent and was sooo good alas no one thought to get the recipe or even an approximate on...
I just wish I could get gloves that fit... large child gloves fit the fingers but are tight on the hand, small ladies fit the hand but are way long in the fingers... and yes if your wondering I wear boys socks to fit my short wide feet... and mostly wear a ladies double wide shoe. Clothes, shoes, gloves, etc are just not designed for real women...
A book that talks about forage and pellets Raising Rabbits by Ann Kanable. Not only just se talk a bit about forage she also mentions that rabbits raised for generations on pellets may not do as well on forage as you hope but you can select offspring that do the best and within a few generations your rabbits will do better on forage then pellets.
Sorry for the delay I have been out of town at a show...
You have gotten good advice from others the lows above 50 is a very good rule of thumb and can work where ever you are. If it is too cold your tomatoes will sit and sulk.
Also it helps to "trench" your tomatoes in cold climates. This means lay them on their side to plant leaving only the last bit of the stem sticking up. This lets them root along the stem up in the warmer layer of the soil and they seem to take off better.
My very first fruit tree is a little apricot seedling I started from a seed... it is currently happy in the little 12 ounce cup but I know it will need a bigger pot soon...
Eventually it will go in my front yard as the foundation I will build a guild around but for now it is a tiny plant. We don't have a deer problem in the area but the local pronghorn population does wander this way sometimes and DH has problems with seeing small trees so I think I will just keep potting it up until it is big enough to survive either pronghorns or lawnmowers.
Another aspect of eating seasonally is "poaching" your heat and light to raise crops developed to be raised inside during the winter. This concept is one that some folks in the Micro Dwarf Tomato Projects have advanced as one reason for working with the littles. They feel that in the future many homes will raise inside crops in the winter. Ones that take advantage of the environment we already make for ourselves. NOT greenhouses but rather plants spread through out the house so food could be grown locally with less need to transport it long distances.
Big step forward today as a local company came by and took down my two cottonwoods. The leaning tree that was growing over the house was indeed dying. I got a round off the top of the stump that clearly shows a good sized dead area. We kept 3 logs from the base of the tree for DH to play with and I got a couple of smaller logs I can put mushrooms on. Now I need to settle on a bush/small tree for that opening. One side of these bushes is my yard but the other side is an alley used by many people in our area. That alley is giving me pause. The line of bushes gives visual separation from the alley PLUS they stop a lot of the dust and small stones being kicked up by cars using the alley.
Compare my photo earlier of the east/alley side of our front yard WOW I didn't realize what a difference removing those trees would make...
In a double drive wheel there are two slots for the drive band on the whorl so the drive band can both tension the bobbin/flyer assembly AND the drive band. Your wheel has a single thick drive band running from the wheel to whorl. IF there are is space for two finer drive bands on that whorl it could still function.
I did mention the possibility of a double drive but as currently set up it is nonfunctioning.
What ever your age keep a note somewhere in plain sight that has information on who to contact to come care for your animals JUST IN CASE. Try to have at least 2 different people on it so if one can't be reached hopefully the second can. Instructions for who gets which animal is also important.
DO NOT PUT IT IN YOUR WILL! Wills go to probate and it can be months before they are finished and can then say oh by the way such and such animals were to go to XYZ. By that time who knows what will have happened to your pets.
This is actually a conversation that comes up in my dog show and breeders groups quite frequently. How old is too old everything else is perfect. The most common answer is never if they can handle puppy energy or if it is an older dog that is being rehomed. Just insure that things are set up so the dog goes back to the breeder OR that the breeder is involved in the decision about who it goes to if the original owner dies.
yes it appears you are right. I had noticed the maidens were a different wood and that the back of the flyer went through the maiden but was not sure if the front of the flyer was removable or not. That flyer may not actually belong to that wheel which is why they did the maidens like they did. You can tell the flyer was on a working wheel at one time by the dent worn by singles running across the flyer to the hooks that help it wind onto the bobbin. It would also need some new hooks as a couple are broken.
Another ummm sign now that I have better photos is there is no way to tension the flyer OR bobbin. You need to be able to tension one or the other to create the speed difference needed for the single to be wound onto the bobbin. In a double drive wheel there are two slots for the drive band on the whorl so the drive band can both tension the bobbin/flyer assembly AND the drive band. Your wheel has a single thick drive band running from the wheel to whorl. IF there are is space for two finer drive bands on that whorl it could still function. You would simply need to wind your single off the bobbin when it is full. It was done like this on some wheels. And most older wheels only have 1 bobbin.
Beautiful wheel whether it is a working wheel or not.
Due to our low humidity I was not sure how well any mushrooms would grow and how hard it would be to provide the humidity they need. So I opted to start with a small on the counter grow kit. I picked lions mane and we got a couple of flushes from the kit. Which led me to do more research and I discovered the bucket Tek. A sale on the big bale of aspen shavings at Petco prompted me to try it. FYI that bale made two full buckets with some left over. My single biggest expense was buying the spawn to inoculate the aspen. BUT once it warms up and that bucket is slowing down I will use it to seed an outdoor bed or even another bucket so with care that will be a one time expense.
There are also videos on using unused paper cat litter and of course cardboard and blue jeans that mostly use some form of oyster mushroom as they are the least picky about what they grow on.
I only left my apricot seeds in the fridge for a month before taking them out and letting the bag of damp soil and seeds sit to warm up to room temp slowly. I have them planted in clear 12 ounce cups with seed starter mix. I was thrilled to notice today that 2 of my 3 seeds have sprouted :) The one that caught my eye is breaking the surface of the dirt so I checked the others. The second one is further behind but has a root and is starting to grow the stem... The third one is still just sitting there but is not rotting.
I can't see the whole wheel so don't know if there are parts missing BUT see the C shaped piece on the right hand side of the photo? inside of it is a spool also called a bobbin. The bobbin fits on a rod that runs up the middle of the flyer. As you spin the flyer rotates around the bobbin winding the newly spun thread onto the bobbin.
Actually you can find bast bamboo but it is rare. The most common form of bamboo is actually rayon made from bamboo. The manmade fibers that masquerade as natural can be interesting. For instance Peppermint fiber is a manmade fiber from cotton and a small amount of peppermint plant. It is much like extremely long stapled cotton to spin. Bamboo Rayon and rose fiber are both more slippery and feel like plastic to spin, the same with the corn fiber they used to make umm Ingeo I think it was called.
I opted to do just a single plant in a 20 gallon grow bag and 2 in a 30 gallon bag as finding dirt to fill them can be difficult on my budget. I have to finish filling up the 30 gallons I will be putting the Saint Charles sunchokes in AND the nine 15 to 20 gallon grow bags I will have potatoes in...
WOW sounds like it is a good thing I ordered this year instead of waiting for next year to try apios americana... I ordered 4 tubers of the Clusternut Groundnut form Oikos for my first try. I do need to decide how large a grow bag I need for them. If they grow well I will be happy to share.
This is also my first year growing Honeydrop My Honeydrop seeds came from Quail Seeds. My seedlings are doing well but I have not potted them up yet. They do however look a bit purplish which I have put down to getting cold. I will move them to a warmer area when I pot them on.
Kintraks is my favorite. Available for Windows or Linux and can be used for any species of animal you raise. The developer is constantly tweaking and upgrading it in response to suggestions from users. Best part is once you buy the license all upgrades from then on are free. There have been a number of programs developed over the years and I have tried 3 or 4 of them before trying and sticking with Kintraks since the 90s. I have used it for cavies, rabbits, and dogs but it can also be used for chickens, beef, llama etc. Each species or breed can have their own database and you just pick the one you need. Price is very good also.