How do you plan to support the weight of the double-wall insulated pipe? This can be quite substantial. It can't sit on the pipe from the stove.
Wall/ceiling kits include a cradle to support the insulated pipe, as well as a twist-lock connector that mates the end of the insulated pipe to the double-wall pipe from the stove.
I have used improvised setups in outbuildings, running single-wall pipe through an insulated pipe in a window. But except for emergencies I don't think an improvised setup is good policy in a house. Fire is a two-faced friend. My 2c.
What do you mean by double walled pipe? Big fat insulated or skinny stainless/black?
If it's a house/residence, get the thru-the-wall/ceiling kit from the same manufacturer. These are certified, but only as a complete system. If you improvise, insurance will laugh at you and deny coverage.
I have seen a lot of sensors that plug into a Raspberry Pi. A friend of mine used one to monitor his greenhouse temps while he was at work. He did the programming himself, in Python (?), as I vaguely recall. I don't recall if he logged data on the Pi itself, but with the right programming I would guess there's no reason why it can't be done. I have no idea about cost, though.
John Weiland wrote:So I'm pulling my hair out on a tangential problem. ...Our main house laptop has some wiggy keyboard and mouse issues right now..., I was hoping to boot to one of the Linux distros which I assume loads its own drivers for the hardware and testing for the wigginess from within Linux. ... the problem is trying to get the USB to show up as a bootable device.
Pardon my ellipses; I hope I have not twisted your words.
Here's my amateur approach. The art of troubleshooting begins with eliminating the obvious. (The PICNIC approach -- problem in chair not in computer -- is valid, and dammit sometimes it's me!) :-)
First, I would work within Windows 10 itself. Love it or hate it (or switch hourly), the drivers are surprisingly capable, even for old hardware. Me, I would plug in an external USB keyboard and a different mouse. Try different USB ports; one will be native, the others will be an internal USB hub. No kidding. Does everything work properly?
If so, check the manufacturer for updated Win10 drivers for your particular model. This is a pain. If no new drivers, and if this was an upgrade, sometimes the Win10 installer lets you slide by because it has generic drivers that *should* work with your hardware.
If no new drivers, and the new external KB/mouse seem to work, it looks like a hardware failure. Or maybe an internal connection failure -- inside the laptop there are ribbon cables and connectors that stop connecting and memory modules that don't seat quite right. You can see how this goes down the rabbit hole in a hurry.
BOOTING: The issue of "other bootable devices" is likely not a Windows thing at all. Newer PCs use a secure boot mode in the BIOS, which does the initial PC startup. Supposedly this makes it harder to hijack the system upon startup before Windows even begins. EFEIEIO or something. It can be disabled in the BIOS (legacy mode), but that could be problematic. I don't know enough to mess with it; with one system, I couldn't go go back. Caveat emptor.
I hope this blather makes sense. Feel free to apply ellipses.
Blaine Clark wrote:I haven't had a single wifi problem.
I install on a lot of old beater machines, the kind that were diverted from the chipper (because I'm funny that way). It's interesting to see if the installer turns Wifi power management on or off. I can't predict it; it's basically a crapshoot.
But it's a known LM "feature," with lots of help references to resolve it. I would be curious to see what your iwconfig turns up.
(Edit: I know that there are Linux folks on this forum who know much more than I do. I'm an amateur, surfing the wave, and reporting what I've discovered in practice. Wizards, wield your wands and school me!)
Meg Mitchell wrote:Another reason that PCs are tossed out is that a single hardware part will poop out and the owners/users aren't knowledgeable enough to identify the broken part and replace it, so they toss the whole machine.
Yes! And sometimes it's a simple silly connection that's causing grief. Reseating the hard drive and reseating the RAM modules solves a multitude of issues.
1. Turn on the firewall, which is Off by default. In 19.3 and 20.1, it's in Menu > Control Center > Firewall.
2. Turn off screensaver. Menu > Control Center > Screensaver. On some PCs, it locks up the system.
3. Check if Wifi power management is On or Off. Open Terminal and type "iwconfig" to find out. Turning it off is a more involved process. But when On, it has a tendency to put wifi to sleep and then fail to wake up without rebooting (grr).
paul wheaton wrote:I'm still runing linux 18.3. It is time for me to upgrade to 20.1. And I'm ready for a clean start - so back up all my data and wipe the system clean. I think the way to do it is to put 20.1 on a jump drive, then bounce the computer, right?
Yup, that's basically it. I prefer to double-back-up any files I care about (two is one, one is none).
If you're using the same hard drive, a wipe is not really necessary unless there are privacy concerns. When installing 20.1, you'll be given several options. If you choose a clean install of the new OS, it reformats the hard drive for you. I find that a clean install is generally more stable.
I just did a couple of LM 20.1 MATE installs on laptops I'm giving away to people who need them. I quite like it. It's actually snappier than 19.3, and they keep adding more graphical controls for system stuff (as opposed to sudo+alphabet soup).
Have you looked at dimensional lumber prices recently? I think you've stumbled into a gold mine! Build with the odd stuff, and sell the rest for cash! Nothing crass about that; it takes money to put foundations under your castles-in-the-sky.
John Weiland wrote:Posting this from within Raspberry pi OS running on a USB drive plugged into the old Win7/32-bit Gateway laptop..
John, thanks for bringing Debian with Raspberry Pi Desktop to my attention. I can't believe how snappy it is -- running from a beater USB 2.0 stick! And it has all the basic stuff I look for anyway:
- Chromium browser with DuckDuckGo as default search engine (!)
- VLC Media Player
A quick update, after a few experimental runs:
1. It has a "run with persistence" option, meaning it will save your settings and files on the USB stick. You don't even need a hard drive in the PC! This resurrects a lot of old machines that run fine but people yanked the hard drive (quite correctly) for privacy reasons. No surprise, since Raspberry Pi was designed to run off an SD card in the first place.
2. In the "run without persistence" mode, it operates very nicely with 2GB RAM but struggles to find WiFi with less RAM. This may be less of an issue in "with persistence" mode, but heads-up.
3. It will run in "without persistence" mode off a DVD. Way slower than a USB stick though.
4. Chromium has an ad-blocker built in. These folks did their homework!
John Weiland wrote:... one of the Linux distros that I downloaded and tried had "Pinta" as a lower end, but still quite useful, photo editing program. It has the "layers" function like a lot of higher end programs but seemed overall less unwieldy than a lot of the other packages. Some of the reviewers from around 2014 - 2016 had noted a few glitches, but that was a few years ago now and I'm wondering if these have been cleaned up. Because it seems like a useful tool for many tasks.
Pinta is in available as a LInux Mint 20.1 package (which I believe mirrors the Ubuntu repository). FWIW.
John C Daley wrote:The commercial versions were first made in about 1818 and one company is still making them today.
When a product has been selling for 200 years and from my own experience they do not make enough noise to cause aggravation with neighbours.
Good info, thanks. I didn't realize the design was that old. I only ask out of curiosity, since I haven't seen one in operation.
If all else fails, there's nothing wrong with adding a fan that forces an updraft in the chimney when you're starting up. Yeah, maybe it seems like a cop-out, but so what. Sometimes the general topography makes this a practical choice.
Were North American beavers introduced to the British Isles a couple of centuries ago, for their fur? And made a nuisance of themselves, since they are more destructive? Memory is vague, but I recall reading something along those lines.
I would add: If your site is nicely surrounded with big beautiful trees, you may get a downdraft that messes with proper draw of any stove. Not only will you get hard and smokey startups, you could get backflow into the house. And, your stove efficiency will suffer. As suggested: go higher.
Insulated pipe is spendy, but the difference in performance is huge.
Late to the party, folks, but I have to ask: why on earth would you drag a floatable boat onto land? It doesn't make sense to me.
Yes, I have some sense of the "floating derelicts, scallywags and slums" drama in BC. The next homeless camp, as it were, on the water, in areas that consider themselves in a "socially ascendent" trajectory.
But -- as an experiment at least -- why not live on the water and commute to the homestead? Just speculating.
I recall that in pine beetle killed trees, the wood is deeply stained blue by the destructive fungus. There have been attempts to make use of this kill wood before it rots, not only for structural wood but for decorative projects. Perhaps this might be relevant?
This is a very interesting concept. I'm not quite sure where and how to apply it, but a meltable and flowable thermal mass has many possibilities. Not necessarily including molten salt nuclear reactors, which also have possibilities, IMO, cautiously.
Salt water still freezes, only at a lower temperature. That's why (if memory serves) the Farenheit scale has 32 deg as the freezing point of fresh water, and Zero deg which is the freezing point of salt (sea) water.
Add enough salt, and it's pretty hard to dispose of that water in a way that doesn't harm life in the biosphere. In the oil industry, very salty "produced water," an unwanted byproduct, must (by law) be re-injected into exhausted oil wells at similar depth.
If only the desired colour was red! Red wine makes its purple-red presence known, persistently, whether you like it or not. Usually on some carpet or shirt, inconveniently. Beets do the same, with great efficiency. I'm not sure how to translate these magical dyes to blue though.
Somewhere there must be a checkers warrior stained with woad who can help?
There are certainly industrial thermostats that activate on a high and low setpoint. I'm not sure that's cost effective for a temporary setup though.
Are you using a 120VAC-->12VDC transformer to run the fans? If so, maybe a 24hr mechanical timer would do the job. I have one that lets you set 15-minute increments of on or off in each hour. You pretty well know when the warmest parts of day and the coolest parts of the night will be anyway.