Burra Maluca wrote:I, however, do have access to that post.
I have quoted it below.
This is not a political blog and im not thinking at how the society should behave and what people should eat.
Its strictly about me and maybe otthers that might attempt something like this.
And you are wromg in your statement that it would kill us.On the contrary,in Georgia ,where Stalin used to spend his summers in a small region ,there were more than 200 people older than 120 .
That created a myth about the water there.They toght it was the water that kept them live soo long .
But they all had one thing in common,were beekeepers and had a diet mostly of pollen and honney.
I think it was their diet not the water ,wich made them live soo long.
It seems as though you are willing to lie to us simply to attempt to prove a point.
We have no intention of wasting our time with members who behave thusly.
Any further such behaviour that is likely to result in a ban.
I would suggest that if you wish to contribute your views and opinions and experience here that you get your act in order and start to behave like an adult.
This is not the post for wich i got the message to change the pronounciation .That was an earlyer post before people started trolling my thread.
I dont worry about getting banned,big deal.
I better get banned than to loose my time in somme weird ,powerless dictatorial forum.
Been there,done that on a romanian forum where the crazy admin had fake profiles and was replying to himself in an atempt to manipulate a few weak minds to follow his views.
Burra Maluca wrote:I had a look at that post. It wasn't removed because of the word 'you', but one of the reasons was because you said 'you are wrong'.
On permies you can express your opinion, but we won't publish anything that says that another person's opinion is wrong. No-one has the monopoly on truth, and we want to hear all opinions so that other people can draw their own conclusions.
I would suggest that you take some time to familiarise yourself with our publishing standards rather than arrogantly pushing your opinions as truth, or attacking staff members.
Probably you have read my comment and seen that it wasnt ,,you are wrong,, phrased at all.
Now that comment dissapeared and i couldnt copy paste it to prove for what a low reason i was bullied.
I choosed thin aluminum single use plates to make the metal jacket wich will cover the barrel and inbetween them the fan will blow air.
Couldnt find otther source for such thin aluminum .
Il have to straighten them and bind them together.
For when the stove will be installed outdoor,the aluminum jacket will be covered in rockwool for insulation and then another layer of metal sheet to keep the rock wool dry if it rains or snows.
Gerry Parent wrote:The equalization of temperature that I think Thomas is referring to is the temperature inside vs outside the riser. The closer they are = less draft, the further apart = more draft.
Of course this is just one influence on draft but have you room for more or better insulation on your riser? For example, a "5 minute riser" made from ceramic fiber blanket is probably the most compact riser your ever going to get to fit into your tight space.
Relying on a fan to do something the stove should already do naturally though is a bandaid solution and can become a much bigger issue if it decided to stop working.
That fan its brushless and build to run non stop for about 30 years or so.Much longer than the stove can last and its only 25 Watts at 12 volts.It made for high end gas heating furnaces and wood gasification heating centrals.
It wont fail and because the stove will be mounred outdoor,it wont be a big issue that the fan stopped working.
As for the 5 min riser,ive ordered a ceramic blanket as Thomas recommended allready.
An old lady here had a heavy meral door where she keeps chickens.
The foor was broken and she had to move that heavy door to close the chickens.
She asked her neighbours to fix it but nobody did until i came from the city to the village and she asked me.
I took the door at my home and i weld it them put it in place .
It amazed me that such old lady because nobody had helped her ,she tryed to weld the door by herself with an improvised stick welding machine and the cables of that welding machine were from thick and solid aluminum,not flexible.
At such low ph as 5,most trees struggle to make fruits and thrive because with low ph the phosphorus becomes non available( ie,because in acid enviroment,the iron rusts and it traps phosphorus).
Thats why you will see carnivorous plants in low ph bogs wich evolved to get their nutrients from insects rather than soil.
Charcoal has a ph of 9 because it contains somme ash and its good to raise the ph.
When i add biochar to my trees add at least a 10 litters bucket of biochar per tree and i dig a trench around the roots,mix the biochar bucket with 3 buckets of soil then i add it into the trench as deeper as possible and tje left over soil i add it on top of the biochar soil mix.
Ive done this to houndreds of fruit trees.
In the pictures there is a 3 year old Hargrand apricot that struggled to grow so i added 2 buckets of biochar to it and it started to develop.
An update after 45 minutes:thr stove started roaring like never before and the exhaust has probably 40 degrees C.
The temperature in the grrenhouse rised with 4°C and the red coals dont accumulate as it happened before because of the low draft.They are burned fast altough im using oak and outside its low atmospheric pressure.
The fan consumes only 25 watts and has a really high flow .Its an expensive 500-700 brushless fan ( ebm papst last year generation) but i paid only 50 dollars on it.
I want to build a generator that will use heat from the stove to make electricity to run the fan wich its just 25 watts of power and also works on 12V.
Next thing needed its a metal jacket like forced air cooled motors have,to chill the barrel better.
thomas rubino wrote:Mihai; System of a size smaller than 6" often have draft issues. This is why they are not recommended.
Yes, outside air pressure certainly has an effect on draw.
A 12 gallon barrel of any material is very small.
Equalization of temperatures will certainly lessen draw. The cooling gasses dropping thru your barrel keep your draft active. A too hot barrel will cause a stall and in extreme cases could cause a reversal of flow and your feed tube would become the riser.
Ive started the fan chilling of the barrel and in 10 minutes the stove is roaring and works great now with longer flames.
I made this tove to such a small size because i want to build a feeding mechanism that will feed wood non stop for at least 3 days without having to babysit the stove.
And it will be an outdoor stove with the barrel chilled by a fan wich recirculates the air from the greenhouse out to the stove barrel then sends it back heated.
Ive mountes the stove indoor and ive used it without the fan because i couldnt finish this project in time for this winter.
As the title says i have this issue when using oak wood and in the morning when its low atmospheric pressure here( the lower the atmospheric pressure the less rockety my stove is ,but thats anotther issue).
I am aware that my barrel is too small and gets hot fast but the stove its also small ,just 6 cm ( 3 inches)burn chamber .
The barrel its from stainless steel ,food grade 316 ss wich is the more temp resistant stainless steel and its a beer keg with 50 litters volume (12 gallons).
Right now im trying to chill the barrel with a fan and il inform you if the draft gets better.
Otther improvements ideas are also welcome .
My sewage is aerobic wich is a lot faster and somme anaerobic processes happen also .
This sewage has virtually nothing that builds up ,i never have to drain it and plants do the filtration.
I then chop the weeds there and make compost from the weeds or use them as mulch.
Lately ive planted a few Paulownia Tomentosa along the sewage trench .These are the fastest growing trees in the world and i will harvest them for wood.
Dale Hodgins wrote:My friend ran a water purification business in St Catharines Ontario starting in about 1982 and ending in about 85. He sold a machine called the ozonator which had been proven to kill the AIDS virus. Based on this information, they told people that it would kill any AIDS virus that showed up in their drinking water. Various scary stories about Toronto medical waste making it into Lake Ontario were presented. I knew something about the temperature requirement for the virus to survive, but he was not into hearing that there were no viruses in the lake to begin with.
One other complication was that St. Catherine's gets its water from Lake Gibson, a much smaller lake that sits on the escarpment, well above Lake Ontario.
I can't hear the word ozone, without thinking about Russ and his magic machine. A natural salesman with no technical training or inclination. Anything that could help his cause, no matter how improbable, was included in the sales pitch.
Its used for ages to clean water and it works wonders.
I wanted one to clean the water in a reef aquarium to be crystal clear.
In order to clean the water you need an ORP meter to monitor the ozone levels wich is a sensor that shuts down the Ozone generator when a certain level is achieved.
In case that ORP meter fails,it can kill the whole reef animals( a crash).
Ozone for washing its really dangerous because you cant use an ORP meter like for cleaning drinking water or clean water.The turbidity in the water from the washing machine renders the ORP meter useless.
So its amazingly good for drinking water,but i wouldnt trust it for cleaning clothes.
https://www.ozonesolutions.com/knowledge-center/ozone-and-orp.html
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Mihai;
I suspect it won't last very long.
When it does fail, isn't the Ytong brick is going to fall into the burn tunnel and block it ?
If it does that while a fire is roaring. It will flame out the feed tube. This could have bad results, inside your home...
How long will it last ? A fair while I'm sure.
If its just temporary, then keep a close eye on it and replace it as soon as possible.
I suggest a ceramic blanket five minute riser.
I will order a ceramic blanket but i was in a hurry needing to replace the perlite clay riser and couldnt wait until the ceramic blanket arrives.
The exterior stainless steel pipe i will be using to hold the ceramic blanket.
And the Ytong that ive used as a filler ,ive cut them in long strips and i dont think they will gonna fall that easy in case the stainless steel pipe on the interior fails.
Ive also tryed to mix glass wool with the Ytong bits so that the glass wool melts and glues the Ytong bits wich it works great,but ive quit it because my brother was coughing from the glass wool .
Because of the quite intense handling of the perlite and clay riser tube ,i got it cracked and had to be replaced.
So i made 2 tubes from stainless steel sheet(316 ss) ,put them.one inside the otther and ive filled the gap between the pipes with bits of Ytong brick ( autoclaved concrete).
Its just a temporary measure for me and the stainless steel sheet its just 0,3 mm .
Will it last?
Anybody that uses stainless steel in the riser ( on the interior,in direct contact with the flames)?
My experience with 304 stainless steel its that it rusts slowly in the riser( becomes red color like its anodised then it rusts) but its resistant to keep the coals in the burn chamber where i have a thin 304 ss mesh screen as a separator between the burn chamber and the ash collector.
That its just 0,5 mm thick 304 stainless steel.
For the new riser thogh,ive used 316 stainless steel wich is slightly more resistant ( 100 C more resistant)and wich also has Molybdenum in it ,compared to the 304.
I make a liquour from a rare fruit ,wich im convinced im the only one in the world that drinks it.
Nitraria Schoberi fruits added to a strong moonshine made from plums and double distilled ,plus somme sugar.
Ive quit drinking a few years ago but this is for special ocasions.
At home i have my own distillery from copper and i make quite a lot of moonshine from plums and from wine when it gets bad ( every year actually because i dont treat the wine with sulphites) .
Im trying to sell it after and in the past 15 years or so i didnt even tasted the wine im making,nor do i drink more than 300 grams of moonshine liquour per year.
With beer was another story and it made me alcoholic after ive drinked it because it has a lot of caloryes and its easyer to drink a few beers than eat a lot of food.
I was running a lot ,looked like anorexic and toght the beer will help wich it did but at a cost( had to take xanax and then Serlift to quit the xanax).
I think that acid foods do nothing for kidney stones because the gastric acid its a lot more acid than the foods/drinks we can eat.
It all gets neutralised by carbonate.
Hazelnuts ive heard from a biology professor that had kidney stones to the point he was almost loosing his both kidneys,that they work well.
He started foraging hazelnuts and ultimately he grew and breed them at home and over time got the biggest collection of hazelnuts in the country.
I have somme of that edible white Kaolin at home .It seems its the highest temp resistant but not sure i will be able to get it to the hardening point of 1800C.
I was thinking to mix it with perlite but the perlite might melt before the clay hardens.
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/clay-basics-2746314
I wish to rebuild a riser for my small rocket heater and i need sugestions for a material thats suited for just a 2 cm ( 1 in)wall thickness.
I was thinking at stainless steel filled with something,eyther perlite or LECA ( expanded clay balls) or even crushed Ytong bricks.
However i wouldnt like to use stainless steel in the riser because in my experience it rusts after a week.Not much rust but it does rust .
Distilled water has 0 TDS ( means total dissolved solids).
You can get TDS meter and check yourself how pure is it.
Rain water is as pure as distilled water.
Why do you need the distilled water? Its not good for human consumption because you will loose minerals.
Go fishing in the big lake with a rod and small hook,catch somme fish ,keep them alive while fishing and then release them into the pond.
Hard to do that with bluegills because they swallow the hook completely and rarely survive after you extract the hook from their stomacks.
If you have frogs in the pond ,means there is little pollution because frogs are the most sensitive to pollution because they breathe from their skin.
As it was sugested,add hiding places for the fish like big dead tree roots.
Gordon,tomorrow il take a picture with a big black locust roots and post it here for you.It doesnt have a taproot indeed but it grows in heavy clay really well .
As for bees ,i have a forest of Tillia 1,5 km away from my apiary.They are good trees but sometimes they become toxic for the bees.They are equally good for beekeeping here as black locust but black locust makes more honney thats superior in taste and costs double than linden honney.
Biggest danger on your land is not your lack of experience but the deers.
Read about how to protect the young trees from the deers .
Do not entirely follow the guidelines that you see on the label when you buy a tree.You can sometimes plant them closer especially if the soil is rich and has good moisture retention.
I have doubts that you ordered trees from a nursery and they sold you non grafted varietyes.Basically 95 % of the trees sold in nurserryes are grafted.
You could post pictures here and i will be glad to help you with somme advice.
Planting them on a mound might not be the best idea because the mound could dissapear over time ,especially if its made from compost and the trees will be left with their roots airborne.
Even rain could wash away the mounds .
Planting on mounds its used in swamps and such places but those are big mounds wich take a lot more work to make than digging a hole.
You can dig it easy when the soil is moist and the hole doesnt have to be too big.
Also ,peaches dont like high ammounts of compost because they are trees that grow naturally on poore and arid clay soil.
When you plant a peach tree i highly recommend to not add any compost or manure at the begining because it could burn their roots.
I don't see impellers, the blades which push the water. does your pump work without impeller blades?
could you include a simple drawing for the pump you are building? maybe show how the pump will fit inside or attach to the pipe? ....or maybe mockup with the items you have to show us how you've intended it to work?
On your request i made a sketch of the pump and the solar pannels.
The impeller will probably be a simple bend stainless steel blade or something verry rudimentary in any case and only the impeller will be mounted directly into the pipe.
Nathan Hale wrote:Yes, they do recommend staying out of the laundry room when the device is in use because it may make people cough, opening a window, and/or keeping the HVAC on to circulate air while in use. I have read a few reviews from customers that reported similar experiences of coughing.
It will burn your lungs directly.It has a special smell thogh and if you know it you will avoid it.
Verry dangerous thing to have in your home.It would work for sure not like in that review video,but in order to work and clean the clothes it will became a hazard for people because it needs too much concentration to be safe for household use.
Here is a project of mine.
I build a solar water pump wich will be low pressure but high volume per hour.
Im making it from somme old Dacia car alternator where i use only the coil and the housing.
The pump will be submersible and the coil will be sealed by a few layers of silicone.
The rotor i didnt made it iet but it will have neodymium magnets on it and the bearings i chosed somme really long lasting plastic( tephlon) and glass beads bearings.
The pump as i said will be submersible,the motor brushless,will work at 18- ( maybe )5 V.
The controller of the pump is a chinese 30 Amp controler for brushless motors .
Im aiming at a flow of 10 cubic meter per hour at 100Watts power consumption .
This pump will recirculate the water in my trout pond during the day through a 10 cm (5in) wide pipe .
bob day wrote:I' just ordered some water glass to use as a rigidizer, then found out there are utube vids explaining how to make it from lye (drain unclogger ) and silica gel (I have lots of that already on hand.
If it helps at all, I just dismantled a heat riser which I used ceramic fiber (unrigidized) and the fibers still look very pristine after one season of use.
I use fire brick splits if there is wood abrading- especially for the floor and sides of the firebox, and especially if it is to be a permanent install., then perlite clay mix to hold it all together and give some extra insulation. I'll use the rigidized fiber blanket for the ceiling of the batch box.
doing some searches today I came up with this thread which talks about several other approaches. Which may give a harder face than simple rigidizer if you do plan to use it in the fire box https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/37246-homemade-rigidizer/
It is cheaper to buy the water glass than to make it yourself from household items.
Paw paw is a nice tree to have and tolerates shadow ( young trees actually need shade or elese they get sunburned).
I would plant cherryes,apples,red fleshed apples ,pears almonds,hazelnuts,apricots ,quince if you like to cook with them and all soird of temperate fruits not necesarely native like the paw paw.
Grafted trees if you want high quality fruits.I have manny seedlings not geafted that i make moonshine from the fruits because they are not too palatable.
Peach and almonds are one of the few trees that grow well on yellow clay soil on my land.
They are verry tolerant of clay soil but adding manures,biochar and nitrogen fertiliser helps them grow faster.
We have plantations of peach trees in heavy clay soil and right next to it there is a brick factory that makes bricks from the soil.
