Rebecca Norman wrote:I guess my mother must have hated turnips, because I'd never eaten one, and had the idea that turnips are heavy and dull.
When I came to Ladakh I discovered that fresh and raw, they are crunchy and sweet as a carrot. Cooked, I like them much better than cooked carrots, light and appealing. A tradition here where I live, as well as in neighboring Kashmir where they do it even better, is to cook meat in the pressure cooker with turnips. It's delicious!
Do you have a recipe for the meat and turnips? Sounds delicious!
Covid, transition to work at home, dogs, coyote fence, garden fence.. all have contributed to no progress on the hugel / swale. Also we hit tuff about 4-6 inches down.... so it will not be much of a swale! and the dogs have torn apart the two layers of logs/dirt/small sticks that we DID have laid down.
We are planning on getting back to it soon, since it is almost Monsoon season. I'll post some pics when we get there.
Christopher Shepherd wrote:I just sprinkle them with a home made dry sprinkler. A large mouth jar with five 1/4" holes drilled in the lid works good. I only target the beetles, because there are lady bugs and lighting bugs all over the place that do no harm. I saw a hand sprinkler at tsc. It was like $17, to much for me.
Jack Edmondson wrote:Well done video. It does a great job of covering all the topics and tools the permaculture community has developed to re-hydrate the land. It is more of a survey than instructional or a deep look at each technique. It would be great to share with those whom are new to the subject. It is also visually pleasing enough to keep the information fresh for anyone whom has studied this before.
$10 bucks was worth it to me to support this educational effort. If you get a chance, please give it a watch and introduce someone new to the ideas and techniques.
Thanks for the review!
What I wouldnt give for 28" of rain! we get just over 16".
I love my tumbler, definitely put some native soil, finished compost, or manure in there , something to kick start it. The ONLY thing I dont like about it is since it is not in contact with the ground, the red worms die over the winter. In my container ones that are in contact with the ground, the worms live over the winter (in the soil perhaps? )
Fencing on hills can be tricky. On the high side the downslope fence must be higher than 8 feet - the height of the hill will often gain them several feet. Conversely, when fencing across an uphill slope, fencing may be able to be lower, depending on the angle.
As you did with the white rail fence, cheap bamboo poles can often be added to extend the height of a "too low" fence. The extended area does not, necessarily need to be deer fencing - at this height all we are seeking is a visual barrier which can be achieved in multiple ways: flagging tape, fishing line with "danglers" (yarn, CD's, cans...) so it is visible, rope, cheap netting of any variety...
Where there is no fencing, at all, again, only a visual barrier is needed, generally. Cheap bamboo poles jammed into the ground as fence posts, with even light weight plastic mesh will suffice; or a combination of materials, more solid on the bottom (fawns) and less so above.
In areas where there is a height restriction, angled barrier/fencing may be required. Extended out from the top of say a six foot fence, go 4-6 feet so they can't leap the angled fence AND the 6 foot fence height.
Sturdy deer fencing is often only required around garden or orchard areas where they are specifically seeking a meal. To get them to "change their path" often flimsy, but visually obvious will do the trick.
I agree with the visual barrier. in my garden, I use tall t posts, fencing about three feet up but then run white strings around the top part (without the fencing) as a visual fence for the rest of the three feet. three strings a foot apart. NO deer in garden!
Not sure where to put this question, so I am putting it in hugelculture! I am looking at catching water from monsoon type storms.
I am in high desert with seasonal monsoon type rains in July/Aug/Sep with not much rain March - June. When we do get rain it comes fast and furious and often in the form of hail (yes even in july and aug)
I am making some swale and bump / hugelculture mixups in my yard. Basically digging a trench on a contour line, piling wood on the downslope line of the trench, putting most of the dug out dirt on the bump/hugel mound , filling the trench up with wood and other stuff then covering with some of the dirt taken out and covering the stuff in the trench to plant into as well as planting onto the bump/hugel mound. so two hugel mounds next to each other one on existing surface and one upslope dug below exiting surface.
What I am trying to accomplish:
keeping water from running off sloping yard in monsoon season
keeping water from taking dirt with it
improving soil condition
making more planting areas
I am planning on making these about a foot high at the start, since that is about how much wood I have to start with.
Has anyone done anything similiar to this before? I am thinking of filling the trench with chicken coop cleanouts on top of the wood and below the dirt- will this be too hot? I also have various wool stuff I have been saving but didnt want to throw out - moth eaten wool rug, wool socks that are no longer patchable, etc I'd like to put this into the trench as well - thoughts about this?
Everett Arthur wrote:A Jack-of-All trades, all-around excellent human and good friend of mine taught me how to make these seed packets for seeds. He learned it in one of his trades, police work, because some drug dealers use it as a cheap way to package dope or crack.
But not us gardeners! So crack is often a powder, from what I've learned in the movies, and expensive powder at that. So both the drug dealers and their poor addicted clientèle want to minimize losses. This works great as a seed packet because even small seed can be easily collected and transported. It works much better than pockets of coats and pants, and you'll see a significant decrease in the amount of lint in your seed mixes.
It's pretty self-explanatory, but if it proves unclear still, I could do a video. I'm on a computer that doesn't allow me access to any real illustration software, so I made do with paint and a mouse.
OMG PAPER CUPS!! My dad used to make these for us on road trips for drinking out of (they are single use but will hold water for a while!) and now I fold them up to save all my seeds in. Thanks for the good memory - my dad is gone now.
Travis Johnson wrote:Nice job on the felling of the tree, and getting snow.
Here in Maine we have the opposite effect, the trees are in autumn color now, but so, so many are still wearing green leaves. Never in my life have I ever seen the trees still having so many green leaves this late in the fall.
I wonder what that means - we are seeing the same thing here in New Mexico - our Cottonwood JUST dropped the last of it's leaves - in LATE NOVEMBER! It's never held on to them for this long.
Bryan Leach wrote:I personally do not like audiobooks divided and combine any audiobook CDs into one file when I download onto my iPod.
I do the same thing. My first choice would be M4A file. Last choice would be multiple files. Please, if this is the final option, name them so they sort in ASCII order!
As far as playing them, here is an excerpt on playing them - seems pretty universal:
How to Open an M4A File
Lots of programs support the playback of M4A files, including VLC, iTunes, QuickTime, Windows Media Player (v11 requires the K-Lite Codec Pack), Media Player Classic, Winamp, and very likely some other popular media player applications as well.
Android tablets and phones, plus Apple's iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch, function as M4A players, too, and can open the audio file directly from an email or website without needing a special app, regardless of whether or not the file uses AAC or ALAC. Other mobile devices may have native support for M4A playback as well.
Rhythmbox is another M4A player for Linux, while Mac users can open M4A files with Elmedia Player.
Lorinne Anderson wrote:I personally do not deal with coyotes here - but good old fashioned urine is a time tested deterrant, as is dog urine. That said, you would want to do the entire fence, or perhaps around the coop itself.
Do consider this a warning, double check that the coop cannot be dug into (concrete, rocks, wire buried two feet down or extending at least two feet along th surface); install electric fencing; get a motion activated water cannon (called a "ScareCrow"); set up motion activated lights...
Just make sure that there is SOMETHING that will scare it off IF you aren't around or aware to do the scaring until your Guardian friend is old enough to do it's job.
Great advice - the coop itself is secure with hardware cloth, as well as extending all the way around, bricks on top, etc. - but the chickens get all freaked out by the coyote sniffing around! I did just buy a couple of the water cannons, to keep them and the bear and the deer and the fox (and whoever else I dont see) away from the yard. I forgot about them! So thanks for the reminder!
last night and again this morning we have a coyote in the yard, sniffing around the chicken pen. Yelling at it will make it go away, but does anyone have any ideas on ways to discourage it from coming in the yard? It just jumps the chain link. I dont want to kill it, just discourage it from MY yard. The puppies are only 11 weeks old and not big enough to leave out in the yard yet. Although it was funny last night seeing Hugginn last night running at the coyote right next to me!
I have been struggling to find milk locally that I can use to make cheese - most of the brands I can get locall y are either UHT or so close to it as to make it unusable for cheesemaking:
Creamland Dairies/ Dean Foods:
Our QA Manager tells me that the required temperature is 161F, but our's is a bit higher. We do not have anything processed lower than 178F.
Kroger/ Simple Truth Organic:
I was able to research this and the milk is actually Ultra Pasteurized(UP), or Ultra High Temperature (UHT) pasteurization which means that it is heated to 280 F for 2 seconds and then rapidly cooled.
-UP/ESL - Ultra-Pasteurization = ~280° for 2.0 seconds. NOTE that this is both the chilled cartons and the aseptic shelf stable cartons!
The only one I could find is Shamrock - an AZ dairy that we can get in NM:
Thank you for reaching out to Shamrock Farms, regarding pasteurization. Our organic milk is standard pasteurized milk at temperatures right around 165 degrees.
I do super lazy compost tea - I bought this composter that has no bottom (it looks like a beehive shape with a small lid on top). I water it and the tea comes out the bottom and waters my plants around it. Love it!
ugh oh.. I just got a load of pine, that a neighbor cut down, to start our first hugelculture bed. I read in this book not to use pines... we have alkaline soil so I thought this would be perfect to bring the PH closer to neutral over time.
We have raspberries, fern bush, vibernum, etc and we were pondering putting in some swales near them to catch some more water and hopefully keep the dirt from washing away so much.
I was thinking of putting them upslope from the existing plants and he thought we should put them downslope. Or perhaps we should do both? And, sizes? a foot across and about a foot down? as wide as the planting? Our slope is perhaps 10 and 15%, depending on where in the yard. Some places we might have to build up for a swale rather than dig down since there is tuff.
- really only good on flat ground.
- not good in windy areas unless you really weigh it down.
- takes FOREVER to break down in dry climates unless you water it.
- if you stack up a couple layers it is really, really slippery on a slope.
I use cotton batts, natural fiber rugs that are useless anywhere else (or full of moth damage!) - really anything natural that I come across, then cover with shredded cedar bark. Works the best in my area.
I used to put out the typical hummingbird feeders (with a jar/bottle on top gravity feeding the dish under) but after watching the bees drink the WHOLE CONTAINER'S worth in one day, switched to these feeders, keeps the bees from drinking it up!
I put out bread for our Ravens, and in turn they bring me little trinkets and leave them on my patio table. Shiny stuff usually, a coin, gum wrapper, one time a little tin fairy! Its now hanging up in my ponderosa pine.