Excellent! I have some 3 and 4 year old vines that got cut down cut down by an over zealous father in law. They are making their return but im going to need a vinophile to help me get them back to full vigor!
They develop a really deep tap root in my experience. I would put them individually into really deep pots if I was going to try and winter them in a green house out indoors.
Best bet is to split your group half in 12 to 18 inch deep pots and half in the ground. They are understory trees here and mine have done well even as tiny plants in winter as long as they are dormant before frost and also providing that you mulch them deeply as they would experience from leaf litter here in Appalachia.
I have not got a great deal of experience but i have raised 3 from seed over the past 3 years. I usually plant things with compost and deep mulch and then give them lots of neglect. It seemed to work especially well for my papaws 3 out of my 4 seeds are now shoulder height.
I have read that they prefer more shade until their 3rd year and then they really hit a growth spurt and enjoy lots of sunshine. Perhaps if you plant them in a sunny location you can put a tomato cage around them with shade cloth it will cut down on winds and intense sun and can be easily removed later.
Assuming the pond is lower than your gardens and gravity feed is out of the question. I'd say instead of buying a giant eyesore of a tank you could get into the Sepp holzer terrace style stuff.
Build a jack spirko style timber frame pond with 2 release valves and use a solar powered pump at the pond. Add agricultural terracing/ swales between the garden and the pond and let the solar powered pump run water into the high pond daily and leak back down your swales to the pond. You could cut off the valve and shut off pump if you don't like it running continuously but also you could set timers so that you always have an 8×8×4 ft pond available for watering via the second valve and you could grow bluegill crappie or catfish in it.
Even if you don't wish to do all that id say looking into a timber frame pond as a storage tank is a viable option for a lower price and more appealing aesthetically.
Best of luck
I cant see all the markings well in your photo but they do look very similar. The difference I've noted is that yours seem to have made nest in a crack and the typical colony builds a woody material based hanging hive typically.
Good luck finding out what you have! I'd keep my distance and enjoy watching them from afar either way!
Perhaps I am alone in this but it seems that when I plant a tree, unless its bare root, I always have a dearth of earth! It magically disappears even though I'm adding outside volume to the void!
I decided to approach the problem as scientifically as an electrician and hobby gardener can. So the next tree I took a sapling planter bag and put the shovels I removed from the newly forming hole and dumped them into the bag.
The result was incredible! I now magically had too much soil!
In keeping with the return of surplus and maximum yield i have started to do this with all large plantings and i merely dump the excess yield into the nearest raised bed and use it to level the settling soils in my beds and also to top off the area surrounding the tree should it settle!
I highly suggest a mary Poppins style soil sack the next time you plant anything that requires removing soil rather than just spading in it!
Hopefully this is a helpful tip for the new planters like myself!
Greg Martin wrote:OFFER: Pledge or boost your pledge by $10 or more in this last 41/2 hours that we have left and then send me an email if you'd like a dozen Chinese artichoke, Stachys affinis, aka crosne tubers sent to you in the fall! They have formed about a 200 square foot perennial ground cover under the bright shady area under my Chinese chestnut tree that kicks out pinkie sized tubers of great quality.....they make lovely French fries! They are spreading out past that planting bed and into my paths so I really need to dig a bunch of them up! (Very sorry, but I can only do this for mailing addresses within the United States)
Also refried beans greens and queso Fresca with a little pico makes for a great taco.
I also find offal meat tacos to be more filling than muscle cuts and usually they come as street tacos much smaller even forgoing the cheeses. I believe nose to tail is an important part of sustainable meat use and it seems in much ive read that the organs often are more nutrient dense. Maybe that's why they seem more filling.
Cutting sausage with oats makes goetta! Its a Cincinnati area treat that really crisps up nice!
I've noticed that in sauces the addition of mushrooms onions tomatoes squashes and even greens will help to make it more filling and also satisfy the texture that my western pallete longs for.
I haven't found a way to make a small burger more filling yet but I'm sure there are many ways... topping with hearty mushrooms or just swapping out the patty for a big portobello top often hits the spot.
Those aren't bad looking and it sounds like they have taken into consideration many aspects of earth care and people care in their design production and supply chain choices.
Thanks for showing those.
I like the water resistance of the material and the ease of care that they claim.
The information provided doesn't say anything about glues so that gives me pause but I'm sure I could email them and find answers.
I'm really looking more for something that I can make with limited import and only moderate honing of skill ha!
I am a non militant omnivore that enjoys vegan jokes and quality meats but I still end up eating far more vegetable than animal mainly because they are easier to grow!
They don't look like great work wear but they do look to be made of sustainable and readily available materials. I bet those would be easily made in any half decent wood shop and you could youtube the leather thong work or visit a local leather shop for help.
I dont think those will work for my goals but I would love to see a post if you decide to craft your own.
I've picked up quite a few hand tools that are nearly impossible to find anymore just by searching Craigslist and I guess I should apply that to power tools as well. I'm always afraid to use cl for motorized things for fear that I get a lemon.
I appreciate heavy tooling as well. I worked in the tool and die at Duracell just out of high-school and I've noticed that many of the shops I borrow from time to time have much less steady pressed metal parts etc.
I have jobs I've tools available at work so I am really looking for something that stays in the shop.
I appreciate your words of caution. I've had a friend come and help me in the shop and assumed his tool familiarity level incorrectly had a "near miss" as osha calls it.
Now thinking about the drop cords is a great thing. I want to get a locking reel cord or two and put in some overhead power. I always plan to get one but forget until I'm in the middle of a project that calls for it.
Those are really nice and I believe that you are correct about the restaurants closing soon. I'm not sure how those would do in the shop though. The metal is thin for mounting vises and pounding.
And I'd be worried about static discharge for electronics work on a table like this.
They may make good welding tables if they hold up to the splatter and heat but re as ly id like to have one of those tables for processing rabbits chickens and quail. My current camping table has a good sink in it but a plastic body and has many marks from my knife. That leads to difficult cleaning so I may get one for that purpose.
It looks like mega bench will be several benches that can be moved if needed!
Aiming for practical and letting any art type bench follow in time is good advice.
I have a welding table I made that will be separate.
I love the idea of a cheap assembly table and a separate metal table for hot metal work. I do not want to be on fire watch for an hour after finishing a day's work.
Do you have suggestions for a quality grinder or table saw extensions that will last store easily and not break the bank? I've been looking at grinders but I have woodcraft desire and harbor freight funds.
I will definetly incorporate a te the back shelf you have described on at least some portion of the bench and perhaps leave open space on some to allow for medium long storage.
I have over head lighting to put in place that I found on a jobsite
I will add adjustable lighting and possibly magnification that can be moved around the bench.
As for hand tools I really appreciate them and try to lean on them for most things but do often resort to power tools.
I am an electrician so I have plenty of materials available for power. I've already got 4 circuits with 8 receptacles on that wall mounted slightly higher than I wish to build the back edge of the table.
Thank you so much enjoy your pie!
I have about 15' by 10' available id like to have a work bench that is about 12 ft long and the length of my arms deep. Hoping to make is modular so it can be moved but sturdy enough to run power tools and beat metal on. I plan to make it of the same height as my table saw and router so that I can feed them off it and put my stop cut on the table if needed.
There is more space on either end of the 15 ft but I wish to leave space to move pieces around when needed.