The top of a goats head is a battering ram, so especially thick. As mentioned, small target so the shot would need to be placed well.
One of the things not often considered when looking for "the most humane way", is the comfort of the person doing the slaughter.
Ex. I have seen people slaughter chickens in a cone with a few swift slices to the neck, and been told this is the most humane way to do it. I have also seen folks behead them with a hatchet, and been told that is not so humane. However, I have seen people who are not comfortable doing with it the cone and slice method who end up not making good cuts, prolonging the process, and putting the chicken through a decidedly less than humane slaughter (not to mention really rattling the person doing the work). If they were more comfortable swinging the hatchet, it would have gone much better for both the person and the chicken.
I would think about your goats similarly. I don't know what your experience is with slaughter in general. If limited, start by doing it the way you can get it done. Over time you will learn what works best for you and the animals.
I am currently just using open piles. However I agree, I made the best compost with my pallet system. I would add to a chamber until it was full. Then I would flip it over a spot and begin filling the first chamber with new material. By the time compost came out of the other end it had turned 5 times. At that point it was added to a large pile to age until needed. One thing I would say though, the pallet system provided some spots for snakes and critters to nest - they like the heat. Haven't had that problem with the open piles.
Yes, they will find their own place to roost. I had some that found my house and began roosting on top of my chicken run, which is an A-Frame about 12 feet tall. They can fly better than a domesticated chicken, so are tough to contain.
As Douglas has alluded to, this may be more of a function of age and position in the life-cycle than anything else.
As a younger person, I leaned more towards what you describe as the "survival" perspective. There are things going on in the world, and I need to do something RIGHT NOW. At 20 years old, 10 years seems like forever - it's half your life. At 40 it goes by too fast, and at 60 it is the blink of any eye. As I have aged the idea of planting a tree that I can harvest from in 10 years, or better yet my grand kids can harvest from in 40 years, seems much more useful than it did when I was 20.
If she is hard set in that survivalist mode, and introduction to Jack and The Survival Podcast might help as a sort of transition. There is a lot of practical survival discussed, not fear mongering. Really helped me along a journey that started at Alex Jones and is currently at Permies!
Yeah, we're creeping up on frost pretty quick. Mid-September is the estimate for my area, although I don't think it will be that soon this year. I will be interested to see if the other one starts to go through something similar, since it has followed a few weeks behind all along. On a side note - the amount of growth they DID put on this year has me thinking they may overwhelm that garden in the future. I need to do some more research on how to handle them over the long term.
It could be sunnier by about 3 minutes a day :) They get direct morning sun, and by the afternoon they are both in the shade. Of the two, this was the one that took off first. If you had asked me in June which of the two was more likely to make it, I would have said this one. This is the first full year for them in the ground (planted last season), and it put on a ton of new growth but is petering out now towards the end of the year.
Anybody have thoughts on what might be wrong with this kiwi? The leaves started yellowing from the base of the plant, then falling off. I still have nice green growth at the tips, but the rest of the vines are bare at this point. There is another kiwi about 15 feet away that doesn't seem to be having any issues at all. I will say that I try to water as little as possible, and this has been a pretty dry year, but this kiwi has received to less water than the rest of the garden and seems to be the only plant in this situation.
Great question, also looking to hear some ideas on this one.
I would say- to me hoarding seems to usually have a spirit of acquiring or keeping something specifically to prevent someone else from getting it. The easiest way for me to get rid of something is for someone else to ask me for it, or use of it. If I'm not using it often, I'm probably going to share it. I don't feel like I have a problem with hoarding.
Saving, on the other hand, is a problem. I, or someone I know, might need that at some point. We could probably rig it up do do.... something. What is it? Doesn't matter, we might need it. At times I have gone with the same method of "have I used this lately?", and if not been rid of it. That seems to be the best way to ensure that I am in fact going to need that item.
Right now the most common reason - when I am tired of figuring out how to justify its continued presence to my wife.
Paul - just to clarify. If a Permie were on the list and you reached out, but said Permie declined due to not being ready at that time, would Permie remain at the top of the list into the future until ready? How many times would you think it reasonable to reach out to someone who declines before you moved them down the list, or stopped reaching out at all?
That would make sense. Thinking about the layers of the food forest, they would likely fill the same niche. When removing an invasive plant, it will grow back unless that niche is filled with something else with the same requirements. You may be on to something - maybe I should be removing poison ivy and planting grapes.
Howdy folks. Just coming across this post a year late I suppose. I was wondering about some resources in the area for foraging and wild edibles? We are a family who is generally interested in the topic, with a daughter who is ALL ABOUT it. Unfortunately, we (I) don't know enough to tell the difference between most plants with any real confidence. Although we have books and the internet, I think it is something we would feel better about learning hands on with someone in person.
As already stated, definitely a wasp or hornet, not a bee. The biggest question is - what is your wife's definition of ok? No matter what they are, if left alone you likely get through the season with few, if any, encounters. If you start taking that stone wall apart, you likely get stung up pretty good. I don't know your wife's criteria, how close the wall is to the house, do you have children who play in the area, etc.
I would also mention - although ducks can survive without a pond to swim in, they do need water in order to be able to dunk their heads and clean themselves out. A bucket or something at least. As has been said already, chickens are destructive. Not only do they want to eat all your vegetables, they are going to want to dust bath. If not provided for, they will solve that problem by digging a hole in your grass or garden to do so. Similar to the kiddie pool for the ducks idea, we have a small sandbox setup for ours.
Quick pickling is great. Much quicker than the real deal, and a sneaky way to get the kids to eat more of the veg out of the garden. I like your recipe, a little different than what I usually do. I use water and vinegar, instead of the AC vinegar. I will def be playing with some of those spices. And don't forget - not just for veg!
Douglas, how exactly are you using the cable to guide the tree? How big of a cable? I am in a similar situation, several very large trees that are far too close to structures. The quotes to have someone come out to drop them are quite high, as they require a bucket truck and in one case a crane. I'm fairly certain that I don't have any equipment strong enough to change the direction of the fall of these trees. I am lucky that for now these are more of a luxury removal, as opposed to the threat of a dead tree crushing the house like the OP, but who knows what the future holds.
I was often confused about this as a kid. My grandfather would tell me it was good for the plants. I would pee on them and my grandmother would yell at me that I was going to scorch the plants. As someone already said, it is good for the soil. I have pretty much come to the conclusion: Pee on plants, not good. Pee near plants, good. These days I don't dilute, but I do tend to spread it around and not hit the same spots over and over again. I wouldn't just hit the same plant with store bought fertilizer, why do it when I wiz?
MSDS are required for all chemical products and list ingredients, toxicity and safety precautions. It's more for handling and application, and not for after it has been applied and dried. So it doesn't say anything about leaching into soil. But you can look up each ingredient and see how you feel about it.
How long have they been in the ground in that spot? Peppers seem like they can be pretty finicky - especially when I buy them in instead of start my own. I have had years where they looked just like yours for a long time (longer than I would have liked) and then exploded. I have had years where they never really got their crap together. Some general thoughts - Were they root bound when transplanted? Maybe they were over-fertilized at the nursery and are acclimating to "the real world"?
That's pretty much the route I'll be going, unless someone has some wisdom that I have yet to come across. I don't plan to brood until spring either, just trying to get everything ready now. Not too much to be done up here this time of year, and in these temperatures, so I try to get as much done in the workshop as possible. How many chicks are you usually brooding at a time?
Looking for some tips on heating an outdoor brooder.
Last year I did all the brooding in the house, and it just got to be too much. For this year I intend to build a brooder to go out in the old goat shed. There is no permanent power at that location, and I would like to not add another extension cord to the yard, although I accept that this is the most likely solution. I had thought about battery power, either solar charged or multiples to swap out when charging, but have determined this is unlikely to be cost effective. Curious if anyone else broods outdoors, in a barn, or in a shed, and if so what do you do for heat?
I feel your pain. You are right, buying eggs would be head ache free, but then again we don't really do this because it's easy. We do it because we like a challenge, or because we love the animals, or because we value know where our food comes from and how it was raised. We have just gone through the absolute shortest days of the year - it's only going to get better from here.
Some things to think about:
I find that it is less about the amount of light, and more about the duration. If you are looking to make an adjustment in that regard, try to get them at least 16 hours of light a day even if it is not super bright. At the same time you don't want to just keep the lights on all the time - that's likely to stress them out.
With them spending more time in the coop and less time out foraging, have you found any evidence that they have taken to eating eggs? Sometimes out of boredom, sometimes because they are lacking some particular nutrient, but it happens.
Have you seen any evidence of someone stealing eggs, ie a rat or other critter?
It sounds like you have put quite a bit of effort into your setup, and I hope you manage to stick with it. Good luck and if you find something that makes a positive change, let us know. We all have our struggles, especially this time of year.