I've found that with a few minutes every couple days I can train any vineing squash up a trellis or fence.
I haven't left them to their own devices since I stopped letting them sprawl on the ground.
I really like tromboncino on a trellis. They grow longer and straighter that way.
I had a cat go down our fireplace chimney. No fire was going...fortunately. I really thought I was going to have to go through the bricks to get it. But I forced the draft open wider with a 2x4. It apparently saw the light and dropped down and crawled out. No vet Bill's, but it did need a bath.
Julia Winter wrote:My mom had a pin cushion shaped like a tomato with a sand filled strawberry for cleaning the points of the pins and needles. My daughter is doing a lot of sewing and has made a pin cushion, I've been thinking we should attach a little sand bag. Any advice as to a particular sort of sand to put inside?
This is the science teacher speaking, not a sewing expert.
Given how hard carborundum is, I would think that would be good if you can get it.
Black, super fine (1500 to 2000 grit) wet/dry sand paper is good for keeping needles sharp.
Sharp needles are easier for my arthritic hands to push through material.
I get my sand paper at ACE hardware.
Didn't this whole thread come about because people were scared off by the "Rocket" part of the name?
Wouldn't a less frightening name emphasize the fact that the flame is contained differently or better? Or that the flame is controlled differently or better?
S super efficient
A appropriate technology
F flame controlled
E environmentally friendly
H hand made
E extremely versatile
A anti polluting
T thermal storage
I grow purslane & portulaca "moss rose"in my garden paths. They typically stay low to the ground and I use the ornamental cultivars, which produce lovely flowers. I love it in the paths because it's soft, yet tough enough to handle me walking all over it. As long as they're in contact with the soil, any pieces that break off just put out new roots and keep growing. :)
I like white clover. Being a nitrogen fixer it's good for the other plants in the yard.
Also, it doesn't grow very tall and bees like the blossoms.
I've encouraged it when I've had it in my hard. I haven't actually planted it.
A quick web search gave several sources to buy the seed.
It shouldn't be necessary to have every last minute detail of the design chiseled into stone before launching the kickstarter.
It's Wheaton Labs. It's there for Paul's experiments.
When you build things, sometimes you get into the project and realize it isn't going to work the way you thought. That's OK. You make changes and keep going. Some of the stuff I've built recently didn't work out exactly as planned.
Or are you not using anything to charge the mass under the umbrella? Also (as has been mentioned), it seems a 1” pipe in a well casing is way too small to provide the air flow needed... does Missoula even get enough sun in mid winter to ‘power’ that?
Charging the mass - good point. May work better after a year of letting the system run.
1" pipe - sounds like a good opportunity to experiment. Maybe different size pipe in the 2 casings. Or maybe different number of pipes in the 2 casings.
Does Missoula even get enough sun - more pipe would mean more light absorbed. That's where my thought on different extensions would come into play.
At different times of the year you might want the air coming up the black pipe to go different places.
How about removable extensions so you can control where that "Piped" air goes.
I can see making a few different extensions to experiment.
There may be times you want to take that air clear out of the greenhouse.
Are you ready for questions and comments about the project yet?
I'm wondering about that 20 ft well casing.
Are you trying to hit ground water or stay above ground water?
Some places here in Kansas the ground water is way deeper than 20 ft.
In my neighborhood the ground water is only a couple feet below my basement.
Do you know how deep your ground water is?
Do you care?
Jennifer Richardson wrote:One thing we'd be interested in doing for this project is to find some tracking thermometers similar to the ones I'm using to track the temperature in Allerton Abbey, but with better data sharing capabilities--right now, I have to manually take screen shots of the data on my phone and post them to my thread. Any ideas?
If you have a computer sitting around that you could dedicate to the project, vernier.com has some easy to use temperature probes.
They will take readings at what ever frequency you set.
You can have multiple probes for multiple inputs, like air coming out of the pipe vs air going into the well casing vs ambient room air.
It has graphing software so you can do analysis of your data.
I've always gotten good help from their customer service department.
Sorry, it's been years since I bought mine, I don't remember the prices, just that they were fairly reasonable for a small high school.
Penny Dumelie wrote:I normally use the bones from chicken to make chicken broth. Add a couple caps of cider vinegar to pull all the goodness from the bones. Once it simmers over night, I will add more water, and leftover veggies - onion, garlic, carrots, celery. Let it simmer until all the healthy parts have been absorbed into the broth and then strain out anything solid.
We then use the broth like a tea (especially for anyone sick). We also use it instead of water to cook rice, use it as a soup base, use it for gravy instead of water... basically anywhere you would use water and want some extra nutrition and flavor.
I do the same with beef stewing/soup bones.
The vinegar makes perfect sense for getting calcium from the bones.
Why didn't I think of that?
Hank Waltner wrote:I think I’ll take some ash saplings and bend them into tool handle shapes I think it would be stronger be cause the fiber are all there and not carved
If you are thinking bend a sapling then let it grow for a few years and take on that shape for later, that works.
I've seen trees that were bent when young that held that shape when mature.
I remember one from a camp I attended as a kid.
Someone had tied two branches in a half knot.
As the tree grew those two branches crossed back to their original sides.
It was this big twist of branches that was great for a kid to climb.
If you have a reasonably priced source for your trees, you could take the following approach.
Plant more than you think you could ever need.
While they are young and small the production per tree will also be small.
As they grow and start to get in each others way the production per tree should also grow.
Then you can decide which trees you like better and thin the herd by cutting out the ones you don't like as well.
This is assuming you have the space to plant multiple trees.
One pollen grain produces exactly one seed. If 7 grains of pollen land on a flower, you can get at most 7 seeds. To get 500 seeds, at least 500 pollen grains need to land on the flower, and they can have as many different daddies as the bees have been visiting.
Does this mean that if I collected pollen from multiple different heirloom tomatoes and applied it to the same emasculated flower, the seeds in the resulting tomato would be a mix of all of them? As in, rather than doing a bunch of different 1-1 crosses, I could just have one big tomato bukkake and have, most likely, a few seeds of each cross within one fruit.
Am I correct?
The biology teacher at the school I teach at says YES.
He says it can be a bit more complicated in some cases.
But, I won't give you his extended answer.
He can be rather verbose.
Kc Simmons wrote:But, anyway, the last couple loads of wood chips I was able to get had quite a bit of ERC mixed in (probably half, or more, with the rest being a mix of oak, elm & other's). Since there was needles mixed in, I assume it was ramiel wood. Since it was all I had, I used the chips to lay an 8-10" layer of mulch on the garden for winter, and noticed the fungus working on it most of the winter, so it's now about 3-5" in most places.
To get to the point (finally, lol), will the remaining mulch, or the compounds of the already broken down chips in the soil hurt my planting this spring? I'm a bit worried after reading this thread. I did rake the larger mulch pieces away from the planting spots a few weeks ago, but I was planning on digging pockets in the finer stuff still on the beds, filling with a scoop of soil, then seeding in that. Do you think that would work okay?
John F Dean wrote:This is something I have been exploring as I age. Of course, all of the features on self driving cars have my attention as well. To get back to your question, much depends on the needs of the individual. I live about 4 miles from a grocery store, post office,, Dr office etc. Giving this any thought, I would like to see something with a 25 mile range. A large basket would be good as well. Someone living in town or just wanting to visit a neighbor would have different needs.
If you have some money to spend, rhoadescar.com has some really interesting stuff.
They have battery assist if you want.
I've seen one, I don't own one.
T Melville wrote:My younger son asked if he could borrow our truck for work. They were moving leaves, and the truck would save a lot of effort. Of course I told him he could, and by the way, what were they doing with the leaves? So I ended up with a truck load of tightly packed dry leaves, mostly oak. Turned out they were packed too tight for my blower / shredder / vac to pull 'em loose. Also, there was lots of gravel in them. My harbor freight shredder didn't think that was cool. So I made a new plan.
I spread them in a place where we tried making a flower bed but lost the fight against the grass. Now I've started bringing sheep and goat manure to spread over the top. Figure that'll keep them in place and help them break down quicker. So what to put in my new lasagna bed? It gets more sun than my current garden. I'm thinking I'll try my tomatoes and peppers in it. Maybe come by once they're up a bit and put some low growing cover mix in place as mulch. I wonder if legumes are a good idea with that much manure present?
Turning a problem into a solution. Sounds like a good idea to me.
I work with a retired attorney.
He says Raven is largely correct.
You do need to get the court involved.
If you know the right forms to fill out and right requests to make, you might (MIGHT) be able to get a judge to open records for you.
There are no guarantees.
If you don't know all the right forms and requests, you definitely need a lawyer.
He also says these forms and requests often vary from state to state.
Maybe I'm the only wise ass here. But, I can't help but wonder why nobody else said this.
If you were here in the United States, I'd recommend, with an ample supply of manure, you could consider a career in politics.
Mandy Launchbury-Rainey wrote:Please be carefull and remember that pH of 10 is 1000 times more alkaline than neutral.
Mandy is correct. pH is a logarithmic scale. Each change of 1 pH is either 10 times or 1/10 as acidic.
There are a number of things that can raise the pH.
Which one you want to use depends on what you are planning on using the water for.
If you are experienced at using chemicals and have the proper safety equipment, a small amount of muriatic acid can drop the pH in a hurry.
Glacial acetic is a little less effective, but, WAY less dangerous. But, I'm thinking the acetic acid may be hard on plants.
Perrier will drop the pH if you want to spend crazy amounts of money.
S Benji's comment about heavy metals is a wise one.
Not too many years ago the school district in Coffeyville Kansas build the largest grade school in the state. Problem with that was, in my opinion, they built it right across the street from an old closed sherwin williams lead smelting plant. Sherwin wiilliams had gone to great expense to clean up the lead from the top foot or two of their property. However, lead dust can travel several hundred yards before it settles. Sherwin williams hadn't cleaned up beyond their property line. So there is high lead levels in the soil in a couple square miles of CoffeyWeville. That school is right across the street.
But, if it is clean of contaminants, the location could make it a better price.
When my wife and were house shopping we followed this procedure.
We made of list of what we wanted to do on our property, not just what we wanted to have.
We wanted to be able to garden, have a few fruit trees, barbecue, do my woodworking, tinker with the cars, have the grand kids over, etc.
Having a list of what we wanted to do not just what we wanted to have changed our perspective on some places we looked at.
We prioritized both the to do and the to have lists and gave the top 5 or 6 items from each list to the realtor.
With some of the places he showed us it was evident he didn't have a clue about sun angles and adequate light for growing things.
But, at least everything he showed us had a space equivalent to a garden.
In grade school one of my classmates lived in the country and didn't have electricity. All the times I visited him it never really seemed like that big a deal. They had lanterns, cooked on a wood stove in cool weather, they cooked on a brick fireplace outside in warm weather. We played outside and had loads of fun. I'm not sure my life was that much richer having electricity.
r ranson wrote:My doctor used to recommend the aspirin a day as prevention as a step before full on blood thinners. They now don't recommend it as it requires quite a bit more monitoring to make sure it doesn't do more harm than good than previously assumed. And some of the prescription blood thinners do a better job with less risk.