An additional question on an issue that seems relevant to this thread. As work continues on our remediation of driveway and walkway structures in very soft clay loam soil, I just replaced a culvert that is crucial for draining an area we wish to have more firm and dry. The exceedingly crude drawing below illustrates a cross section of the driveway going from the main drive to the work-place site we wish to have more consistently dry. It looks like a standard culvert job with a lower ditch trough on either side of the graveled driveway through which the culvert runs. The problem is that there is no way to stabilize the banks of the ditchwork.....and I'm resigned to periodic dredgework to keep the ditches in moderately good shape. But after heavy rains, silt and mud can settle in the culvert. Indeed, the newly installed 15" diameter culvert replaces a 12" one that I removed---and which was completely clogged with mud.
I've seen one video by a person demonstrating how a bucket/sump-pit system positioned at the *downstream* mouth of the flow through the culvert allows silt/mud to settle into the pit and can be removed annually so that the efflux side does not accumulate mud that might block the flow and allow settling within the culvert pipe. Yet I'm wondering about the concept of the "fuel bowl" on many tractors that is placed, often with a filter, in-line with the fuel intake and positioned *before* the carburator/fuel injection system. Would this concept not also apply here....with placing a 'settling pit' on the intake side of the culvert? Perhaps on both sides?? The proposed pits are shown as the dotted-line rectangles in the image below. Advice on this issue much welcomed!....
Just to add an observation that I hope to test out soon in the kitchen. Although each person has their own taste preferences, I find the new "Beyond Meat Jerky" to be an outstanding facsimile of meat jerky. I was surprised to see that the main protein ingredients were mung bean protein and pea protein with no gluten nor methylcellulose to provide texture. It's possible the mung bean protein has properties lending itself more to the firm texture than pea protein and would perhaps offer a non-gluten approach towards the meaty firmness. Will be testing out a batch of mung bean protein soon..... They can be grown and ground for the flour as well. Here in northern North America, it may be a stretch to grow in a home garden as the days-to-harvest was listed as 75-90 and it appears to be quite frost intolerant. Hopefully others have more experience with growing the beans and using mung bean flour or protein to add here?... Love to see all of the approaches and solutions on this issue!
Mike B., The driveway looks nice! Have you had any rains since the last photos? If so, how is the soft spot holding up to that event? We are finally past a stretch of 100 F temperatures and I'm getting ready to start gravelling and installing some french drains. Can't tell you what a treat it was to trailer a 20' long, 15" diameter culvert and 100 ft of coiled 6" diameter draintile pipe during 40 - 50 mph wind gusts! Good thing gravel back-roads were available for most of the excursion....
One question that arose during my planning was whether it may make more sense in some areas to create walkways out of the french drain run. In other words, since the french drain will have corrugated pipe surrounded by ~2" crushed concrete and the whole burrito wrapped with geotextile with a final crushed concrete + road gravel covering, what do others think of using stone or concrete pavers on top of the gravel to make a walkway over the trough that is carrying drainage water?
It's possible you may have curly top in North Carolina, but unless it's moved in in recent years, I don't think the eastern U.S. is in its normal range. Curly top tends to stay west of the Mississippi River but again, with changing climate and insect migration, lots of new diseases cropping up in new regions. Do you have a state Ag extension office nearby that could help with the diagnosis?...Looks like Cary is near Raleigh-Durham so there should be offices nearby for NC State University that may be able to assist you in this regard. If it *is* curly top, then control of the leafhopper that transmits the virus will control further spread of the disease. Good luck!
I wasn't able to find the specifics on the molecular formulation of the CaCl2 in pickle crisp, but the difference between the non-, mono-, and di-hydrated forms would be negligible for this use and I wouldn't worry about it. The link below calls for 4 level tablespoons CaCl2 per gallon of water and I suspect (though do not know for sure) that you would want to make sure the foliage leading up to the fruits gets the treatment as this tissue will absorb more of the calcium than the fruit itself. The vascular system of the plant will move the calcium into the fruit during fruit growth and ingress of water during the process. Hope this may help!....
Thought I would re-bump this and just inquire if any "do-it-yourself" enthusiasts have replaced their gas engines on push mowers with electric. Although there are some YouTube videos that discuss it, I was hoping some members here had done so and can suggests sources for DC electric motors (even recycled from other appliances??), Watt/Horsepower requirements of electric vs gas, optimum voltage (12V, 24V....more?) and other suggestions. It would be nice to do a conversion and see how it all holds up. Thanks!
Actually no! We got some bark mulch from a lumber mill and I’m guessing there were spores mixed up in that.
Any idea if there is a main tree species they are running through that mill? Is the mill producing standard dimensional lumber and which conifer tree species in the area would they probably be using for that? Thanks!.....
Heather Sharpe wrote:.... a free, app called SnoreDoctor. It records the sounds you make over the night so you can see if you're snoring or stopping breathing. It also gives you the ability to keep track of patterns, It could give you some clues and possibly help you see if changes you're making make a difference.
Along similar lines, I'm probably going to activate a 30-day cardiac monitor.....anyone have experience with these? It both records and broadcasts the heart rhythm to my health care provider so we can make some plans in July. I'm not inclined to want to take any kind of drastic action, but at least we will have some understanding of what my heart is doing through all of this, both during the day and at night. Does SnoreDoctor take a lot of battery power from your phone....can you just leave the phone plugged in for recharging while the app is functioning? Thanks!...
John C Daley wrote: John, I read the details of that textile and am surprised.
It looks good, what is the cost of the products compared with rock costs?
John, unfortunately I don't have a recent price on the cow carpet and will have to ask my wife what she recalls paying for it. I did find a discussion on the internet from 2009 that indicated the cost was ~$500.00 for a 15' X 300' roll. Not sure what it would cost today.
Crushed concrete unfortunately more expensive than I had hoped at 15 yards X $20.00 USD per yard...$300.00 per truck load and I bought 2 loads. That's pretty close to the cost of class 5 gravel, which does not vary in price too much, but if I had shopped around and played the time factor a bit more (in other words, when big roadway destruction projects in the city are yield large amounts of broken concrete), it could have been much cheaper for the concrete.
Mike Bettis wrote:
No problem at all. I had never thought of crushed concrete. When you say 6-8" crushed concrete I assume that's your layer height not the rock size. What size is the concrete?
The quarry said it would be considered 1.5-2 inch concrete chunks. If you shop around, you may find bigger sizes. From conversations with others, there can be a lot of variation in product and price on these materials.
Hoping it isn't taken as a thread hijack, but I will try to post some of the photos of a similar project here as a way of comparing notes. We have more of a paddock/mudpit problem that we hope to rectify over the summer.....the worst manifestation of the problem occurring in the spring when the sub-soil is still frozen, but the surface soil has thawed. I hope to excavate a good portion (6-8 ") of the topsoil/clay and then start with a porous geotextile ( https://www.usfabricsinc.com/products/cowcarpet/ ) as the first layer. This will be covered by crushed concrete (6-8") recently delivered (uncleaned, see photos) which will be topped off with 'class 5' sand/gravel of the type used on many gravel county roads in our region (Northern Plains, USA). The problem area blends with the main driveway, a portion of which will get the same treatment, but without the geotextile underneath and without as much excavation. The whole project will be completed with French drains using the same type of geotextile encircling the pipe *and* the coarse rock. So this will essentially be a 'burrito' style where both the pipe and the gravel are encircled by the geotextile fabric. At this point, I'd like to experiment with 'doming' the gravel in the trench upon completion so that it's slightly higher elevation than grade....it probably makes little difference, but I hate the thought of the gravel being below grade and seeing all of that mobilized clay and silt filling in over the top of the gravel. Will try to update here if it's okay as we make progress through the summer.
Following this thread now. Doc thinks my high blood pressure and other factors weighed in on a mild stroke back in January. Looking into dietary/herbal assistance for hypertension as well as possibly switching medications. Blood pressure can be pretty high, even upon waking....which has led to suggestion of apnea contributing to oxygen debt and elevated blood pressure. So again, CPAP came up and for many reasons I'd rather not go down that road. Would consider the mouthguard type of fix before that, but also hoping more chime in about what may have worked for them. I'm a side-sleeper..... except when I can't. The 4 am insomnia usually makes me sit up against pillows and try to meditate back to sleep, which usually works. Anyway, hoping others continue with this thread and new solutions emerge from the discussions.
The comedian Dave Barry used to work for the Miami Herald and had a recurring column. He mentioned a 'gathering' in a local big box retail parking lot where guys would assemble to pay tribute to their run-down, wheezing canister vacuum cleaners. After plugging them into a remote generator via extension cord, the terminal Hoover was given a send-off by sucking up some gasoline. The sparks in the motor would ignite the contents resulting in a small mushroom cloud over the parking lot. Yeah.....guys and their visions. :-) .... but old gas would probably work as good as new..? LOL
John F Dean wrote:The first thing I did after I bought my property in MN was to have a well put in. It was the correct decision for me.
We inherited our well in northern Minnesota and have never regretted it. Water is so critical.... In a pinch for the animals, we can chop a hole in the ice of the nearby river and haul some up, but as we are aging, that is a less desirable option. Trying to keep above ground tanks from freezing in winter would be extremely difficult I wager. As an alternative, I did hear once of a person sinking a milk-truck tank into the ground far enough that his 'water stash' did not freeze.
Just adding to the chorus that recommends some sort of larger shed/pole building as a first build. You can park tents, camper trailers, etc. inside to keep yourself away from the elements temporarily and store so much more in there to keep things dry. And in the spirit of "buffers", during cold periods, the dead air 'buffer' in the building reduces exposure to rain/snow and extreme wind and cold. Good luck!
Sunchoke/Jerusalem Artichoke. It would be a non-woody perennial that would not suck as much water as corn, but would provide a decent wind-break,--and you could eat the tubers to boot! Not great on shade, but may be good for the other factors.
My purchase of Corelle dishware is of the all-white variety and done in the past year. Still, an unfortunate development for so many who have or may have been using contaminated ceramics from various sources. Just posting this additional informative article....if it's blocked for too many Permies members, I'll remove it in a future edit:
If the seeds and soil are the same and you feel the soil moisture is the same, then I would check soil temperature. If you have a pair of thermometers, put one in the pot and one in the larger tub and try to monitor the temperature across as much of the day as you can. That may be part of the difference.....worth checking.
Douglas Alpenstock wrote:A quick method of reducing the photo resolution to a Permies-friendly size is to:
- open the photo on your PC
- use the screen grab program (Snipping Tool or Snip-and-Sketch in Windows / Take Screenshot in Linux Mint) to capture a low-res image to clipboard
- save the screen grab image as a file and then upload directly to Permies.
Agreed....I find this much easier than trying to "resize" images in the plethora of imaging programs that may or may not reduce image size (bytes) to a desired level.
Great to hear about the yogurt success! Did the other batch get more tangy with time? Other than the link I posted above, I'm not familiar with 'pre-biotics'.....is this something you can buy from a health food store or what did you add in your case? I would like to try this in the almond/cashew milk yogurt that we occasionally make. Thanks!....
Cy Cobb wrote:
I know that SH2 corn instructions state to isolate from other types, but I always thought that was because the pollen from those other types of sweet corn would "water down" the sweetness & "toughen" the texture of the SH2 variety. I'm just curious what the story is on this?
It's not quite as simple as that since, minimally, there are two known genes or genetic loci that contribute to kernal sweetness in maize. It appears that sh2, a naturally occuring 'mutant' gene, contributes maximum sweetness when two copies of the sh2 "allele" (one copy from each parent) are present in the progeny.....in the seed that gets planted. By outcrossing with other pollen, ...... for example a sweet corn that does NOT use sh2 to achieve its sweetness.....it's possible to bring in a different "allele" of sh2 that somewhat negates the effect of the single-copy sh2 that may be in any one progeny plant. In fact, the 'non-mutant' version of sh2 in wild maize stocks quite rightly would probably add toughness to the kernals based on its normal function. But additionally as noted in the link below, there can be interactions between sh and su genes which complicates it a bit further. So perhaps just best to keep selecting for desired traits within your landrace and get the best that you can for your needs and interests.
With respect to combining all possible disease resistances into a landrace or variety, that has been the "holy grail" of plant breeding for over a century. The main observation comes in the form of "yield penalty".....for incrementally more resistance you breed in, then generally speaking you unfortunately also observe incrementally small reductions in yield of your crop....*under disease-free conditions*. If you are accepting of the yield penalty, however, then you can take solace during years of heavy disease pressure that you were able to harvest *something* while those growing less resistant material would have lost everything. An extreme example to be sure, but not without historical precedent.
Now that we have the photos in the earlier post, could you please post additional photos so we can see what "getting worse" looks like? I agreed with others that the initial spots did not look too bad and may just have been a reaction from the spray that you used. If possible, please try to post a few more photos. Thanks!
Re: Yogurt w/prebiotics..... Magdalene, if you still have that yogurt test, keep it going and see how it turns out. May not be a waste to have mixed the pre- and pro-biotics (full article below is behind a paywall, but the abstract is intriguing....). Good luck!
A quick additional set of notes, some of which have been brought up in other threads....but
While I like both tractors shown below, note the distance between the front wheels and the bucket for both tractors. The Deere has it's bucketcloser to the front wheels and this lends more stability to lifting a load than with the Kubota. Being a bigger tractor, the Kubo lifts more weight and volume than the Deere, but you have to have a counterweight off the back for heavy lifting or else you will feel your rear wheels lifting off of the ground. I don't know if all Kubos have this issue with the positioning of their loader bucket on the tractor, but it's noticeable on mine. The nice difference regarding the Kubota is that the quick-attach aspect of the loader arms allows it to use standard skid-steer implements......no 'adaptor plates' necessary. So many non-powered skid steer buckets, forks, etc can go directly onto that Kubo loader assembly in place of the oem bucket. If you run a hydraulic pump off of the PTO, you likely can use the powered implements as well.....front brooms, snowblowers, etc. The ~18 hp Deere is the workhorse for 80 - 85% of the chores, being compact, nimble, 'comfortable' for my wife and her needs. The Kubota is the bigger (32 hp) beast, but more stable for pasture mowing and larger landscaping.
Edited to add-- If you click on the photo to zoom it in a bit, you can see what some of the others in this thread were describing....the way the loader joystick for the Deere rises up from below whereas that the for the Kubota sticks out from the loader itself. It does make a difference as to how you can access the operator station with the Deere allowing a bit easier access. I also favor the twin-pedal forward/reverse hydrostatic of the Deere over the treadle style on the Kubota, but have gotten more accustomed to the treadle with time.
Nope,...... but you wrote it in black and white! No rebuttals or arguments here.
I suspect I join many of a certain era or walk of life whose parents grew up on fairly self-sufficient farmsteads in the 1930s or 40s, only to be pushed by their own parents to get off the farm and into the cities where the money is. That sentiment had its advantages, but .......
JT, as this is a forum about Permaculture, I wager you already are schooling them in that other type of investing.....life skills. My niece, in her early 20s, is doing remarkably well financially with her business and finally is getting some advice from others on financial investing. My sister (niece's mother) *tried* to instill in her the benefits of growing her own food, producing her own fuel/heating situation, etc....like most Permies aspire to. But niece was having none of it in her teens....it just wasn't her interest and she exhibited a fair amount of typical teen rebellion in this regard. Fast forward to her approaching mid 20s and she's looking at buying a house..... one that could have a garden and small woodlot. Go figure! Sometimes the teen rebellion just has to happen before the sensibility of certain ideas comes home to roost. Good discussion here....
In my 60's I much wished someone had done this for me and my siblings....kudos on your efforts. And also seconding the valuable additional information of DC Stewart since not all things called "Roth IRA", etc are the same....hidden fees and other things can make a big difference. All of this in my case learned too late, so keep on with the mentoring of your daughters to the extent that they allow....
...it's that time of year when the weather forecast is running out of colors to described the various severe weather incidences befalling the region... ;-)
Chef Skye Michael Conroy is really good at making seitan. Here is his website https://thegentlechef.com His books help me make a lot great of seitan and vegan cheese.
Agreed......his "Seitan and Beyond" purchase download (PDF) got us started with a lot of nice variety a few years ago. But I admit it has been a somewhat long journey to get to where we are more satisfied with the outcome. For Easter, my wife is making a 'lamb roast' (seitan) using the washed flour method that starts with high protein bread flour. For sure it's a longer procedure....even more so because she was following a recipe with longer wait times between the kneading steps......but she's much more satisfied with the texture this time. And maybe it's something we are not doing right with flavoring, but it seems best when the seitan can marinade longer rather than shorter???...... Still more experimenting to do, but pretty amazing with what you can do!
Thanks for all responses so far. With rain coming down and frost still in the ground, the situation is still acute. As noted above, *most* of the problems will go away with the disappearance of the frost below ground, the change in the weather to late spring and early summer during which the trees and vegetation begin to transpire water more, and the drying effects of summer heat. Nevertheless, the situation merits some serious landscaping with stone and drainage and I'm grateful for the responses.
Catie George, thanks for providing your experience and pointers with french drains in clay soil. With the added photos below, hopefully the situation is better illustrated. For sure we can provide the sloping and pits/trenching towards which the water can flow. It's the way the clay holds on to water and prevents percolation that really is the problem (but of course is equally a benefit for growing our crops in moisture-deficient years). I can see the advantage of using only the geotextile fabric to line the trench which then would be back-filled with coarse rock. When compared to the same with a good sized perforated pipe running down the middle, however, would one silt-up more quickly than another? Also, it would seem that we have to choose the barrier textile sheet carefully......too small a pore size and it will clog quickly, but too large a pore size and the clay silt will infiltrate the rock and clog the whole channel too early, thereby reducing the lifespan of the drain. Thoughts or recommendations on this from anyone? The high traffic areas in the photos below are slated for complete overhaul this summer....removal of topsoil, base cover with geotextile, then coarse rock and then finer gravel-sand mix with drain tiling below leading into the french drain trenches. I realize many Permie situations have the opposite problem....that of trying to encourage water arrival and retention, but this just isn't one of those areas at this point and ultimately it will be interesting to see to what exent all of this solves the problem and for how long. Thanks for continued input!.....
When we moved to the region in the US where we now live, I was shocked.......pleasantly so....by the fact that the local high schools had a "home building" class! It more than one upped "shop class" that I attended in my younger days and I could not imagine how much would have been learned of value by installing a foundation, framing and building a house and integrating all of the electrical, plumbing, and HVAC.
More than just a catchy name for a new biligual R&B band celebrating Franco-American relations..... :-) ........ the excessive water in the yard around our animal shelters has me focused on that issue and wondering "What would YOU do?..."
Although our yard and our region in general is flatter than a pancake, we are fortunate enough to have a slow drop of about 6-8 ft across ~200 ft of yard. As we are in a glacial lake bed south of the Canadian border, the heavy clay soil is several feet thick, so I'm not assuming our problems can be solved for decades into the future, but for several years until we vacate the property I'm hoping we can come up with some solutions. I'm satisfied with the plans from YouTube sources for using a geotextile divider between the clay and some aggregate and gravel for the walk spaces, but it's the drainage I'm still stuck on. I hope to use some version of the image below to trench the problem areas with the backhoe, but also have become convinced NOT to not wrap the pipe with porous geotextile fabric since the clay silt will clog the fabric pronto. But in that light, should I not even line the trench with geotextile in any way?
Our worst time for battling the mud is spring, when frost is still coming out of the ground and all of that clay is holding into the water near the surface. But even in mid-summer a heavy rain can take many days to dry out and the water moves slowly. I'm prepared to go up in cost a bit to use 8" or possibly even 12" culverting into which I manually drill the drain holes on one side in order to mimic the typical perforated drainage pipe....would that help at all assuming that it will be surrounded by coarse aggregate? Or will the larger diameter not make enough difference in flow rate and system longevity to justify the added expense? Thanks for stories, examples, suggestions and opinions.
Saralee Couchoud wrote:Thank you for all the advice. I live in middle Tennessee, zone 6b. I have tried growing them in Arizona (high desert) and didn't have any success there either. This year I plan to grow them in a raised bed because I can no longer garden traditionally. I had to sell my cows so I plan to bring the bung feeders down and use them. Do you think I should use only store bought soil that is supposed to be sterilized to grow them? Thanks for everyone's help
If you have raised beds you may wish to try starting the seeds indoors or even outdoors, but in store-purchased potting soil. If the product is listed as 'sterlized' and is not too expensive on account of that treatment, it may be worth buying a small bag for the sake of the test. Otherwise, just go with what they have available. There is one other product that has worked for us when we have seedling disease and that is Soilgard(TM), a preparation of the beneficial fungus Trichoderma virens. It comes as a powder and has instructions for working it into your soil or potting mix....it has saved our tomato starts many times from disease that can cripple our potted plants before transplanting them into the garden for summer production. The problem is that product does not appear to be sold in small amounts at a reasonable price, so as a substitute I would recommend to try Mikro-Root (https://www.amazon.com/Mikro-Root-Trichoderma-Management-Solubilize-Bio-Fertilizer/dp/B08HZFYLRC/ref=asc_df_B08HZFYLRC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=461373853379&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10623307441862856720&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020213&hvtargid=pla-970352806217&psc=1 ) which would give you a 'testable amount' for your investigations. With this product, you could do a test in pots where you plant beet seeds in your garden/raised bed soil in one pot and in a second pot do the same except add the recommended amount of Mikro-Root indicated on the package. A third pot should just have a purchased potting mix for the soil with the beet seeds. Hopefully this comparison may point to a culprit in preventing your seeds from germinating or emerging properly. The advantage here is that, if the seedlings emerge in the pot with the Mikro-Root, you could then transplant these into your raised bed because the protection of the seedlings afforded by the fungi in the Mikro-Root product would multiply along with the growth of the plants and hopefully protect them throughout the growing season. From that point on, you would want to consult with neighbors or others in your region about how the Tennessee heat might affect them as they grow. In the future, it may be best in that warm region to start beet seeds indoors in mid-winter for transplanting in late winter or very early spring, thereby getting your crop before the heat of mid summer arrives. Alternatively, you could start the seedlings indoors in mid-summer and transplant them when the cooler temperatures of fall are arriving. I'm willing to bet that harsh winter that would kill the beets would not arrive until January, if at all.
Saralee Couchoud wrote: I try growing them every year but to date they have never grown. Obviously I am doing something wrong. How do you get beet seeds to germinate?
Saralee, Could you provide a rough idea of the region of where you are trying to grow your beets? Beets are pretty good at germinating in cool, spring soils and can tolerate some warmth for germination, but don't like hot weather. Another little test would be to take your seed that you obtain and plant some of it in in a small pot in potting soil and some of it in a separate pot in your garden soil and place in a window sill where it won't get too hot. If the seeds in the potting soil germate and grow, but the seeds in the garden soil don't, then there is something in the garden soil inhibiting their growth. Often there can be fungi that beet seedlings are suceptible to that can kill the seedlings even as they are trying to emerge, but there may be other factors. But let's see if we can solve this problem for you one step at a time. Thanks!....
Unfortunately, I'm not sure if there are any sources of sea beet in the US that make seed available to individual growers. If you have any connections to friends or colleagues along the coastline from Denmark down into the Mediterranean Sea, the estuaries therein are good sources of native sea beet growing wild. Otherwise, you may want to make a trip to California to see if any of the invasive populations are there to be found: https://www.calflora.org/app/taxon?crn=11374
Good luck!
PS.... If you have contacts with others living along coastal southern California and they can ID the plant, they may be able to find some seed from last year's stalks. I can't recall off the top of my head, but sea beet may be 'segregating' for annualism......some will want to flower the same year that you plant them, but others will not flower the first year and you would harvest the root, cellar it overwinter, and replant the root for flowering and seed set in the next year.
Thanks for posting the hydrant head photos, Magdalene!
Aha.....the picture that is worth a thousand words :-) ....... the little set screw was out of view in the original photo so now it makes sense. If that set screw was loosened, the plunger rod that goes down through the pipe would just sit there, not moving, while the handle went up or down and no water would come out. The set screw grabs the plunger rod when tightened and allows the handle to move that plunger rod up and down to open and close the valve at the bottom of the pipe. Where the one design uses adjusting nuts to find that 'happy place' where the water flows well with the handle up and the water stays shut off with the handle down, the set screw model like what you guys have employs loosening the set screw if you need to re-adjust where along the top of the plunger rod you want that screw to grab.....finding the happy place by loosening, slightly moving the handle, and then re-tightening the set screw to see if the happy place has been reached. I can see on major, MAJOR advantage to the set screw design: No disassembly of the flat steel arms that attach to the handle and pull the rod up to access water. With the adjustment nut design, you have to take the handle and the steel arms off each time (!!!) just to turn one of the adjusting nuts a quarter or half turn, then reassemble to see if happy place has been achieved. Not fun on a nice day, really irritating in cold weather. Are you guys okay with posting the brand or source for that hydrant? Again, much thanks for that extra photo.....cleared up the confusion immediately!
Super curious about something in your new water hydrant photo.....
In the close-up that I've clipped below, I can't see the adjusting nuts that would allow for 'fine tuning' of water flow in case mild leaks develop, which is not uncommon. See the photo immediately below that for location of the adjusting nuts above and below the pivot bar. I'm not able to imagine how your hydrant level pulls the plunger rod up and down, but it may be the angle of the photo. If time permits, could you snap a photo of the spiggot head from the rear (i.e., the opposite side that the spout is on) with the handle in the up position? Just curious as this seems to be a knock-off of the Merrill Anyflow hydrant head from some years ago.....their newer models are of a slightly different design. Thanks!
Edited to add a photo of our own hydrant.....currently non-functional as it's still frozen up solid til the ground thaws completely. :-/
No rebuttals or arguments here.