Groundnuts (Apios americana) -improved cultivar for increased production
-10 for $19.79, 100 for $119 + FREE SHIPPING Link
Chinese Chestnuts -bareroot seedling trees of a mix of 3 high quality cultivars (Peach, Qing, and Kohr). Some of the top reccomended cultivars by MSU.
-Large (2-3 feet) one year old trees. Genetics suitable for commercial production
-5 for $49, 50 for $199 + FREE SHIPPING. This is the best deal I know of for quality chestnut seedlings. Link
We also have available:
TREES: Butternut, osage orange, chinese quince, american persimmon, Apricot seedlings 'zard'
ROOTS: Chinese wild yam bulbils, bocking comfrey, chinese artichoke, jerusalem artichoke
SEEDS: Codonopsis pilosula, american water lotus, marshmallow, chinese cedar
+More at website Some plants are not available yet, others are available for preorder, some like groundnuts will be shipped immediatly. I'm working on getting everything harvested and posted.
Please do not hesitate to ask any questions. Thanks everyone for the support. Happy planting!
Hey Stephen. It won't be much longer before these trees wake up. So I'm doing my final sales before I just plant whatever is left over. I don't think I ever got your order. So if you are still serious about it, nows your chance. Thanks a bunch.
Hi Greg, thanks for reaching out. I think they will. They are hardy to your zone. I see lots of references for recommendations for planting in zone 5. I think you are on the right track by planting more densely. These are trees from awesome genetics, but there is enough variability that you will be able to select the trees to keep that are most adapted to your site and climate.
Hi Stephen. I can split orders 50/50 with both varities, no problem. The free shipping is anywhere within the United States.
As for the Kohr variety, I also have not found a lot of info on it. I know it is one of the varities grown in the Missouri State University Agroforestry department in their chestnut trials. It has proven to be a quality tree with commercial viability.
These are 2+ feet tall bare root Chinese chestnut seedling trees. The nuts came from high-quality cultivars suitable for commercial production. You can choose between two parent trees 'Qing' or 'Kohr'.
100 for 299$, 50 for 195$, or 5 for 45$ all with free shipping.
The trees were grown without chemicals on our permaculture farm, nursery, community, and education center in Southern IL
50 Chinese Chestnut barefoot 1-year-old seedling trees for 195.99 + free shipping. Choose between 'Qing' or 'Kohr' parent trees. -Both cultivars are recommended by the Missouri State Agroforestry Department for commercial production. Seedling trees of proven cultivars give genetic diversity while favoring superior traits. Choose between 'Qing' or 'Kohr' parent trees.
-Trees are 1.5-2.5+ feet tall.
Thread about the farm: https://permies.com/t/88447/Interwoven-Permaculture-Farm-Nursery
We also have available: TREES: thornless honey locust, black locust, Chinese dogwood, Chinese quince
ROOTS: Jerusalem artichoke, comfrey, groundnut
SEEDS: Chinese wild yam, Codonopsis, American Lotus
CUTTINGS: Black Elderberry 'Sampo'
The comfrey we offer is Russian Comfrey Bocking #4. It is sterile. As of now, we only have root cuttings posted on our website. I will try and get the root crowns posted on there ASAP. In the meantime, if you do want comfrey root crowns, just order the root cuttings (link below), and mention in the notes that you would like crowns. Instead of 15 cuttings, I will send 7 root crowns.
We also have available:
TREES: Chestnut, thornless honey locust, black locust, Chinese dogwood
ROOTS: Chinese artichoke, Jerusalem artichoke, comfrey, groundnut
SEEDS: Chinese wild yam, Codonopsis, American Lotus
I also like the idea of selling more cuttings and seeds from my nursery. One of the big reasons I don't sell produce is because what gets me more excited is the idea of other people being able to grow their own food. What is most important to me is getting perennial plants in the ground, so if I can supply propagation material in a form that would allow people to plant more, than I am having greater success. Unfortunately, at this time I do not have any extra chestnut seed available. I may in fall, but I'm not sure. Happy planting!
-Chinese Yams are hardy to zone 4.
-The root is food and medicine.
-The vines can grow quite long, I have never given them an endless trellis to determine how long they will grow.
-They can be a bit aggressive and spread. In your zone, I wouldn't worry about it.
-I planted them 5 years ago at our old homestead, I go back every year and check on them, and they really have not spread that much.
-The metal fence would work great.
I need to get around to writing more complete write-ups for both these plants.
-Plant bulbs in fall or spring just below the soil every foot or so
-It grows similar to a normal onion, but instead of a single bulb it forms a clump of 5+ bulbs
-Harvest them in summer when the foliage begins to die back
-When planting from seed they tend to form one fairly large sized bulb
-When planting from smaller bulbs they tend to form a whole bunch of small bulbs, similar to shallots.
-For an in-depth write up of the potato onion check out...https://docs.google.com/document/d/1jnqst7-9YfWFovhqjARtcZZVJC0TPzKsow_5mdAwnyA/edit
Chinese Air Tubers
-The air tubers can get as big as a quarter or so
-They are harvested in summer, and eaten raw they are similar to a raw potato
-They create a large root, that can be delicate to harvest because it can easily snap off.
-It is a Chinese herb for building the energy (qi of the body), and improving digestion. It can be also used as food similar to how we think of 'superfoods'.
-it likes a trellis and is effortless to grow.
Our current list of nursery stock that is available for immediate shipment
-Egyptian Walking Onion Top Sets
-Potato Onion Sets
-Chinese Wild Yam 'Air Tubers"
They can be requested to be shipped in fall or spring at checkout, along with the rest of our seasonally available stock such as trees and tubers.
-Comfrey Bocking #4
-Black Locust Trees
-Thornless Honey Locust Trees
Interwoven is a 160-acre farm, nursery, and community in South-Eastern Illinois. We host events, plant tons of trees, and are home to several residents with their own personal on-site permaculture enterprises. This thread is specifically for the Interwoven Nursery.
Our mission is to supply an affordable and diverse selection of useful perennial plants, with a focus on hardy, low maintenance species and genetics, to assist in the creation of self-regulating garden/farm ecosystems.
-To promote perennial plants as a means to feed people and heal ecosystems
-To create abundant food-producing landscapes, for the health and well-being of the planet and its people
-To acquire and preserve useful perennial plants for the future of our region
-To educate on how to garden, cook, and heal with perennial plants
-To develop and expand upon the idea of a perennial based diet
Gardening and farming with perennial plants is a solution to many of the world's most pressing problems. They can create more nutritionally dense food with substantially less work than annual based agriculture. By creating food systems based on the wisdom of nature, there is less need for human maintenance and inputs. Less maintenance and inputs mean more time and money for the gardener/farmer. Healthy forests create an abundance of food, improve air quality, are home to countless critters, and thrive despite weather extremes. No one had to plant, weed, fertilize, spray, or water the forests since they self-regulate and self-replicate. The solution to the energy and food crisis lies in the natural order found within healthy ecosystems. All mature ecosystems have something in common. They depend on perennial plants to perform many of their functions. They work together to create biodiversity, resiliency, and abundance. Humans can return to our rightful place as harmonious participants within the natural order, by reviving our relationship with perennial plants. Together we can co-create thriving ecosystems that take care of people and the planet.
You pull off a single bulb from the 'top set' and plant it in its new location. They also plant themselves by their top sets getting so heavy that the plant falls over, and thus 'walks' to the new location.
30 Egyptian Walking Onion top sets for 16.99$ + free shipping
-I try to include lots of large to medium-sized top sets, if I ever include small ones, I make sure to add a bunch of extras.
-This is the only item currently in stock at our nursery. Everything else available for pre-order for fall.
Hey there from Interwoven Farm! Over the last couple years I have been slowly developing a online nursery, with a focus of serving the permaculture community. I believe transitioning to perennial crops is a key part of building a just and abundant future. I love propagating these amazing plants and spreading them out all over the world.
The chestnut trees are all bareroot seedling trees. These trees were grown from nuts from the 3 cultivars recommended for commercial production by the The Center for Agroforestry at the University of Missouri.
You can choose seedling trees from any of these cultivar parent trees...
Sleeping Giant (Chinese x japanese x american)
15$ each or 10 for 99$, including shipping.
The groudnuts are an improved variety from LSU.
Check out the website for more info, and other lovely plants. Feel free to ask any questions. Thanks yall!
When we moved onto our farm one of the ponds didn't hold water. We discovered that the drainage pipe had rusted severely and allows water to leak through the dam wall.
The pipe is about 4 feet wide when it is vertical (where the height of the pipe determines the max water level of the pond), and then it is about 2 feet wide when it runs horizontal across the bottom of the dam wall.
According to my research metal drainage pipes often rust, and eventually need to be replaced. There are 3 common solutions.
1) Dig out pipe and replace it with a new one. In the process you have to excavate a large portion of your dam wall
2) put a new pipe inside your degrading pipe and then seal the space in between with concrete or something.
3)Take out as much of the pipe as possible, without digging out much of the dam wall, preserving the dam wall. Then cover back up with packed clay. Then use an alternative means of drainage.
This sort of system seems quite common. If this problem occurs and goes untreated, eventually the erosion can become major enough to blow out the dam. I now detest such a technique, I want my ponds to last generations, not the lifespan of a metal drainage pipe.
I'm choosing option 3.
So far we took out the vertical piece of pipe. Now we are left with the rusted horizontal pipe that goes bellow the dam wall. We are considering building forms and capping the end of this pipe with concrete, and then backfilling with our best clay.
Anyone have experience with such an issue? Any thoughts to add? Is capping with concrete over kill? What should be done? THANKS A BUNCH!
Anyone know how cattle panel hoop houses compare to more traditional metal tube hoop houses? I'm wondering which one is cheaper to build, and which one is strong and longer lived. I imagine the cattle panel is stronger, but more expensive? Thanks.
Thanks Paul! That did the trick. Now I received some of the premium access emails to my email address that is connected to my permies account. The only problem is I never got resent the access emails for the PDC instructor notes and the 6 ways to keep a chicken PDF. I hope I can get those. Thanks for your help and your time.
Hmmm strange. I supported the kick starter and it should be under "Longfield". The email address is unfortunately not the one that is associated with my account but it is what I get my dailyish email on which is "firstname.lastname@example.org".
I am logged in. I see the area where it says it costs money and I have to pay via paypal. I have tired multiple browsers. They all say it costs money. I got an email saying that I have earned this candy due to my kickstarter support. Gir told me to post here if I'm having troubles. Thanks.
I practice Chinese herbalism and one of my areas of focus is in overcoming physical pain. I'm also a permaculture farmer and perform a lot of manual labor. One of the simplest, most effective, and easiest to use pain treatments is magnet therapy. What makes this such a great therapy for permaculturists is you get quick results, and all you have to do is tape a magnet on your area of pain, so the therapy doesn't get in the way of your outdoor tasks.
In Chinese medicine all pain is due to a fundamental stagnation of Qi and/or Blood. Magnets work by moving the energy, which breaks up stagnation and relieves pain.
For the most part, you want to use the highest strength therapeutic magnets, around 12,000 Guass. Place them on the main source(s) of the pain. Usually, the pain is radiating from a small point, find that point, put the magnet on and secure it with medical tape. Often there is 3-5 points like this that it is appropriate to put the magnets on. Leave them on as long as you would like.
Besides taping on individual magnets there are also body wraps and jewelry that contain magnets. All these are great, but I find that the strength of magnets in these products are much weaker than I prefer. I still use them because they are convenient and allow me to apply more magnets. If the pain is severe I will tape on magnets and use some of these wraps.
I have gotten incredible results with this therapy both with clients and on myself. When the proper strength magnets are placed in the right spots, 8/10 pain can easily be brought down to a 2/10 or even 0/10. This is a game changer for anyone struggling with chronic pain, especially when your livelihood depends on manual labor.
Some important principles to understand from the Chinese medicine point of view...
All pain is due to a fundamental stagnation of qi and or blood. Moving qi and blood relieves pain. Injuries cause a stagnation of qi and or blood, which causes the pain. So include herbs that move Qi and herbs that move Blood.
During injuries the blood gets damaged. Repair the damaged blood by taking Blood tonics.
Acute injuries usually have an element of heat to them. Signs of heat are inflammation, red skin, skin that is red to the touch. So herbs that clear heat should be included.
The previously mentioned herb formula The Great Mender performs all of these function
Chronic injuries generally have an element of cold to them, so warming herbs should be used. This would not be relevant for post surgery. Unless the injury lingered and became chronic. In which case you should use warming herbs.
Avoid using ice. Ice stagnates qi and blood, slowing recovery. It also pushes coldness into the injury, which can turn it into a chronic injury. If you insist on using ice to relieve pain only use it for less than 20 minutes at a time, giving yourself breaks between sessions. Also only use the ice on the smallest area possible. Don't use ice on broad general areas.
there is an herb formula called The Three Yellows, its also known as Herbal Ice. Its some really powerful cooling herbs that relieve inflammation clear heat and reduce pain (kind of like ice), but without the stagnation effect. You get it in powder form and then add some liquid to it to make a paste similiar in consistancy to cake frosting. You put it on your injury in a thick paste and then wrap in gauze.
Homeopathic arnica before and after surgery has been reported to be incredibly helpful. This was told to me by an herbal teacher who is also a classical homeopath.
There is a Chinese medicine formula known as The Great Mender. It can greatly speed recovery from injuries including surgery. This can work wonders. I have experienced its powerful effects via herbal clients and stories from friends. I have heard of it healing a broken rib incredibly fast.
Weather weirding is upon us. Spring came to my region weeks early. I was digging up and planting many bare root trees from my nursery beds. Most of their buds have begun to swell, and many have opened partially. I went ahead and planted lots of them. But there is many more! Am I wasting my time planting them? Will it stunt the trees growth for many years to come? Any way to care for them to prevent the transplant shock? As of now I have been moistening their roots in kelp water pre planting.
Also...Does anyone know how long you can keep bare root trees in buckets of water? Will too long damage them?
I like to have some beds that I plant by broadcasting diverse seed mixes, creating a crazy jungle polyculture. I have other beds that are designed for harvest efficiency while keeping some of the polyculture ideals. What I do is each ~4 foot wide bed has 3 rows of plants running along the bed length wise. Each row is a different plant, but the same plant occupies an entire row, making 3 main plants per bed. I then allow useful and interesting weeds to remain in the bed, and just weed out the nuisances and the grasses. Along with having the crazy polyculture beds scattered about, I think this is a good hybrid system.