Seed balls will work, but you might need to make them larger to have enough soil above the wood chips. The seeds germinate in the seed ball soil and roots go down to find the soil under the wood chips. Need consistant moisture to germinate, so the balls allow this. Fukuoka is seeding into straw/clover on top of soil so any size balls will work.
In the picture, he has compost or some soil medium on top of cardboard, which would work if you add compost or top soil on top of wood chips and seed into it.
In a small-scale double blind, placebo-controlled study, blue skullcap had anxiety-reducing effects in 19 volunteers. S. lateriflora, along with reducing anxiety, significantly enhanced global mood without a reduction in energy or cognition,
Will spread by rhizomes when planted, so a little goes a long way. Also heavy feeders if you harvest the grass. I haven't harvested it yet, but smells great when it gets really hot out. I also pick sprigs of grass and put it in my pocket.
Joshua Myrvaagnes wrote:Genius! OK that handles spring for squirrel-policy-of-appeasement project. What would be a good supply of food for them for the gap-month--August? other than my clients' tomatoes? Yeah this is me doing some yarwork for someone and throwing a bunch of permactulture ideas out there to see what sticks. She like the idea of growing some food and is very committed to an ethical life, but she has frequent questions about viability in the suburban setting where she is--we're looking at handling squirrels and rabbits. Thanks!
Squirrels here are going crazy over the red oak nuts before they ripen.
Silver Maple is like Red Maple. It needs a lot of sun and is very adaptable. Will grow faster with more water, and slower with less. It also has a short lifespan (75-120 years). Changing rivers and streams keep new environments that they go into and then die out as larger, longer lived trees take over. I have seen it growing well in pure sand.
Silver Maple is notorious for being messy and dropping branches and limbs in storms.
Following WWII, silver maples were commonly used as a landscaping and street tree in suburban housing developments and cities due to their rapid growth, especially as a replacement for the blighted American Elm. However, they fell out of favor for this purpose because of brittle wood, unattractive form when not pruned or trained, and tendency to produce large numbers of volunteer seedlings, and nowadays it is much less popular for this purpose to the point where some towns and cities banned its use as a street tree.
Worms eat anything they can put in their mouths for the most part. Bacteria, fungi, organic matter get eaten. If you have too many worms, they will probably distrupt the bacteria being able to multiply.
They feed on bacteria, fungi, organic matter so this is a good sign of biological activity. I had some growing up on some leaves I added compost tea to. The leaves were perfect in the end though, so just eating the good stuff on the leaf.
They are pretty docile. They will leave when you do anything. Just don't attack them and I have never had an issue. I have a blueberry bush in a mountain mint patch (attracts all the wasps). Just slowly enter to give them a chance to move without feeling directly threatened. Lots of animals walk through meadows where flowers are blooming and don't get attacked by wasps. Also male great black wasps don't have stingers, and very rarely bite if handled.
Once the working tree was about two years old, Van Aken used a technique called chip grafting to add more varieties on as separate branches. This technique involves taking a sliver off a fruit tree that includes the bud, and inserting that into an incision in the working tree. It's then taped into place, and left to sit and heal over winter. If all goes well, the branch will be pruned back to encourage it to grow as a normal branch on the working tree.
I would get an inventory of the tree/shrub/herbaceous plants growing in the woodland. This would allow one to see the quality of the woodland, any edibles/medicine already available, ecological value. From here, there may be pockets that can be formed in lower quality areas. Maybe some invasive species have degraded it. This will give one an idea of what will need to be addressed then and to what might want to be added.
Depending on canopy coverage, you might want to do some tree thinning to open some areas for edge plantings. If there are trees that are taking too much space (maybe they were there before it was a woodland), might be good candidates.
Yeah I would just go for it and plant with tolerant plants the first year. After fungi sets up, it shouldn't leach and keeps the chemicals under control. Fungi was noted in Jordan for blocking salt uptake from the soils.
Some plants thrive in morning sun and after noon shade. Like planting shorter fruit shrub/tree on the east side of a larger tree.
The edge of the large trees is one of the most productive environments. Trees that like shade and trees that like a decent amount of sun will thrive on the edge. Creates a nice micro-climate for the other plants around it.
I would just let trees grow, will be the most productive way to improve the soil. Cover crops are used in annual crops to hold the soil and improve composition but the grass and trees will do that just fine. Just cut some back when they get in your way. Nitrogen fixing trees/shrubs/native legumes will increase leaf production and biomass growth, if necessary. I like sweet fern, new jersey tea, wild senna, sundial lupine.
Since your location is in a forest, trees are the most productive, so planting edible trees like hickory, walnut (butternut, white walnut), chestnut will give you the most food production.
Under the nut trees can be these understory plants or added to the woodland, Hazelnut, Serviceberry, red mulberry, huckleberry, lowbush blueberry, chokeberry. Propagating your own seed will be the cost effective way to over-plant areas.
With deer they are browsers and less grazers. So giving them a lot of food choices reduces the damage they can do. Also mixing poisonous plants with edible plants can protect each other. (elderberry with serviceberry or spicebush with walnut) Weeds can be your friend with deer if they will eat it. Scything areas where there is inedible deer food will increase the alternatives and give them something else to nibble on thats free for you. I have pokeweed everywhere which has good ecological value, dynamic accumulator, and protects my plants from detection during a lot of the summer growing season. Downsides are if you have an overabundance of deer, you might need to do other things to protect the plants. Over time your trees will grow above the 5' height deer browse from and not need protection.
Forests are more difficult to understand how to exploit the niches and what plants would go well in those areas. Nature is better at this because of the numbers game. Observing what grows naturally can give you an idea of the niches, and planting into those niches. Low cost plants (seeds) allow for experimenting and overplanting which will give better success generally than the niches we can usually imagine with limited concepts of sun, soil, and water.
"Always more biomass, more biodiversity." - John D. Liu