You will need a 220v outlet. Is that available and can you post a picture? With a picture we can tell you what NEMA code plug is at the wall, which will tell us a little about your available power. You will need a 220v male plug to match the female receptacle in the wall.
Which wall socket do you have according the above chart?
Show a picture of the back of the motor where the wires are connected.
According to your plate data, there should be 5 posts (connections.) For 230 volts, connect the blue wire to the #5 post (disconnect from the #3 post.) and the white wire to post #3 (from the #1 post). This will give you 230volt 12 amp clockwise rotation. For counter clockwise rotation (CCW) switch the #2 post with the #4 post wires (red and black.)
A few thoughts to answer your concerns. Not rated for residential use means they have not gone through the certification process to be EPA compliant. That may mean the stoves are not well built (meaning air tight) or it may mean they did not want to invest capital in the government red tape to certify. As with any wood stove a carbon monoxide detector is a good idea. A leak will fill up that container pretty quickly. Don't "wake up dead". Get an alarm. Test it. Keep it in working order.
Any stove will heat that small a space. A metal container will conduct that heat outwards, so may require more fuel. A "rhino lined" or rubberized finish on the outside will keep your container from rusting and give a insulative coat to keep you warmer. If you do the roof after installing your flue, it will also waterproof the opening. If you decide to berm up the container with soil in the future, the lining will protect the metal from rusting. Small stoves also means a lot more work cutting logs to fit the firebox. Something to consider. How much work do you want to save in cutting logs and does it justify a larger stove (or more $) to save the labor?
The flue out the ceiling (straight pipe) as opposed to out the side (90 degree turn) is a safety issue. Creosote build up in a chimney can lead to excess heat that can burn down a house. Less of a problem in a non combustable metal box however. Just keep the wood cured (dry) and don't let smoke build up in the flue. The roof is flat so does not need excessive height to clear the Ridgeline (shorter pipes are hotter and less build up.) Use whatever chimney design you want and you should be fine. Thomas makes good points about the chimney cap and guy wire.
Well, there is Slab, Stem (pony) Wall, Rubble trench, pier and beam, Basement, and Gabbion; or any combination there of. Take your pick. Not all of them require loads of concrete. What it really boils down to is what is your soil, how much weight does the foundation need to support, and where is the freeze line?
I would first identify my soil type and depth. The deeper the soil to bedrock the more Potential there is for movement. The less sand in the soil as general rule, the more resistant it is to weight displacement. Is there expansive clay? Does the moisture content remain fairly stable or does it heave a lot through the seasons?
Next would be to calculate the load of the entire structure, including contents and occupants. Does it require a deep or wide foundation? Does it need to be reinforced to address stresses?
How deep does the frostline dictate the perimeter be?
Where are you building? How big do you want the structure to be?
The part that is cracked, is it cast iron or drawn steel? It looks to be cast. Cast can be welded, but most welders don't have the experience. If you don't have access to someone whom will weld cast, JB Weld is a good home solution. (two tubes of epoxy paste mixed together)
You may not need to go salt and vinegar (can be aggressive.) Try a can of cola first. 24 to 48 hour soak.
If the bolts on the handle won't loosen with WD40, try a little penetrant oil (auto supply store) or some automatic transmission fluid (sparingly) on the threads. (half acetone/half ATF is an old homebrew penetrant but wear gloves.)
That I could not tell you. I went to the Mac platform about 20 years ago, and don't keep up with PC equipment very much. I will not call it bad. I will say there are very good graphics cards out there that should speed things up. The computer shop will know the best that is compatible with your system. It is best if it has its own memory built into the board for speed of rendering (also frees up resources from your motherboard.
There is a lot of "hunting land" out there that is cheap, but not really good for much else but hunting. (Flood Plain, Steep slopes, etc.) Make sure it does not have a CCR or conservation covenant attached to it. There are a lot of acreages that have gov't conservation leases that severely limit what can be done with the property, and the sale price reflects that.
Eastern OK has some nice land in the western Ozark range. Prices are reasonable. As with all areas you will see, poverty and meth have wrecked havoc on many rural communities. Plan to spend some time in the area doing some recon before signing final papers. Don't be in a hurry.
A great resource for learning about potential purchases: UC Davis Soil Web It will give you very detailed information about soil type/structure, along with some general weather and habit conditions for specific properties.
I can't really give much advise on the "where", as that is extremely subjective.
This is only tangential to your question, but something to keep in mind. There are cloud service (actually for gamers) where one pays a monthly fee to use dedicated hardware (yours) on their server. They build a computer in a server farm for you. They pay for the equipment and upkeep. They promise the latest greatest fastest equipment upgrades at no cost to you other than your subscription fee.
Recently I tried Shadow and was happy with it, once I worked out the bugs on my end. The advantage is you get a top of the line computer designed for the type of work you are doing (gaming is very resource/data intensive.) Your hardware is never out of date and you can access from anywhere. You do need decent internet access, but since you are processing on the server end, there is not a lot of data going back and for to your home device. I think I pay about $13 a month, but my home system is 12 years old and cannot be upgraded any further. So rather than buy an expensive new system I tried this service. It may be something to look at if your system can't be upgraded to the level you need. There are a couple of companies doing this. I can't recommend one over another; but there is a lot of feedback on the 'net, if you want to look into it.
Your 'thinking power' is you motherboard and it is expensive to upgrade. However, you likely have a lot of options before going to that extreme. Adding memory and a dedicated upgraded video card will do a lot, especially if it has (or is capable) of having its own dedicated memory on the board. Also a solid state drive might help the time to load files and save changes.
By acceleration do you mean the time to load, launch or initiate new programs and processes?
Roberto pokachinni wrote:
I also just hope that those who have been led to believe that social reform in any way is something to fear, or that socially-oriented policy has anything whatsoever to do with Communism, come to a different understanding.
I have to respectfully disagree. Give it whatever name you like... this is Communism:
Marx made it sound very equitable as well. It is a wonderful idea. Castro was a great salesman too. Until he lined people up and shot them in the head.
However, once personal sovereignty is removed and we go from each according to his abilities to each according to his need; there is no longer any restraint. No check to the power. (A government big enough to give you everything you need is a government big enough to take everything you have.) And no. It won't be different this time. We were founded on Equality of opportunity. Not equality of outcome. We forget that at our peril.
If you doubt any of that listen to her directly. She does not want it to stop. It should not stop. The rioting will continue until the Revolution is complete:
Don't forget that a quick rinse from the backside of the radiator to the front will clear a lot of that in the field. It will at least keep your moving until you get back to the barn and can blow it up properly. Shut down the engine (power off the fan if electric) and spray inside the engine compartment towards the bumper.
To be blunt, the electoral college is the official vote in the United States. The popular vote has always been a 'poll' of opinion within a state. The electoral college 'validates' or ratifies the popular vote of the state they represent. This has always been debated and justified with different arguments, but has never really been a lightning rod issue, since they have always voted based on their jurisdictions popular results. (forgive my memory, civics class have been a few decades ago.)
But legally and realistically the electoral college can vote anyway they think represents the true will of their jurisdiction. That is good or bad, fair or evil depending on one's view point. But that is the short version.
There will be others whom have the patience to flesh this out tonight. I do not. I am sure the debate will get lively; but I have had my fill for today. Sleep well, all.
I would have to agree with your husband. I have never botched a pork roast by "just putting it in the crockpot." What my Cuban friends have taught me is Picadillio as a spice. It makes a wonderful Caribbean version of a pork sandwich.
I am glad you are having a good day. I hope you enjoy it.
As someone of your generation, I have all my life had friends and family whom have escaped communism in various parts of the world. For decades I have heard their personal stories. For the past six months, I have been jarred by the similarities of their experiences shared and our own national politics. I too am enjoying the wonderful weather and the beauty of autumn.
I wish all here on Permies Peace, Security, and Safety. Be well.
Archery. Making my own longbows and recurves. Sometimes arrows from scratch. Walking in the woods with equipment I have made by my own hand. I don't have a lot of time to get away, but when I do flinging a few arrows I find to be very therapeutic.
I am no wheelwright, but it sounds like a wheel balance issue. If it was acceptably balanced before the introduction/replacement of parts, it needs to be rebalanced. However, if you say there is a point at which it drags, then the axle/bushing combination may be the issue. Around what does the wheel ride/rotate?
To balance a wooden wheel it is easier to add weight to an opposing side than reduce weight or material. Unload the wheel from drive chain or friction points, so it will spin freely. Give it a small push so it goes through at least one full rotation. Let it come to rest. Mark the low spot. Do this a few times, marking the low point where it comes to rest each time. Take an average of these points to find the heavy side. Start adding weight to the side opposite until the wheel does not drag or comes to rest in the same position. Taping coins to the inside of the rim is an easy way to add weight to see it will balance and where is the sweet spot.
If it is an issue with the axle hub, you may need to replace the bushing or bearing in the hub of the wheel to eliminate the drag point. Make sure all surfaces are smooth to the touch and are not binding. If they are, replace the damaged part.
My Uncle made a cutting board for my Cousin whom had suffered a blood clot stroke in her 20's and lost the most the use of one side of her body, and the complete lose of use in her hands. She was single and lived alone. (She was fiercely independent.) He took a wooden cutting block and drove stainless nails through the bottom of the board, exposed about an inch. This allowed her to place a vegetable or even a piece of meat on the cutting board; and have it stay in place while cutting with her one hand. I thought it was an ingenious solution to a very frustrating problem. One that might make a thoughtful gift to someone that is challenged in working one handed.
To clarify your concern, are you concerned about a flood event reaching the house; or about the soil suitability for a foundation close to wet ground?
Van Zant is in the Trinity River basin, I believe. If you have been in Texas long you will understand what that means. The Trinity gets "Big Water" at least every 50 years and leaves its banks. How close are you to a creek or stream? Flood Plains are hard to identify in East Texas, as they can be miles across; and one can be in low water plain without noticing.
The good news is that pond is a cut stock tank, or artificial pond. Unless you are in a low lying flood area, you have little to worry about if the pond has a spillway properly installed. You can download the FEMA flood map for the county here and see where the property is compared to known and projected flood risks.
As far as foundational concerns you can download the County's soil survey here Soil Survey. Look for issues with expansive soil in the area. In areas with expansive soils, the ground will shrink in a drought, and swell in times of high precipitation. This plays hell with a foundation. The pond may actually help keep the soil neutrally hydrated during extreme weather periods.
My biggest concern with a house that close to a pond in East Texas would be mosquitos. Keep that pond stocked with fish and wildlife to combat the bugs. Otherwise they will drive you indoors for large parts of the year.
My google-fu indicates it is a water right claim that was granted or claimed improperly. In States with Prior Appropriation laws, someone makes a claim and it is recognized by the governing body; but later shown to be false.
Also a bit more context might help. From your second posts it appears you are listing Irrigation Water rights and ditches. Both would be false due to the State (and many other western States) policy of prior appropriation. The "I got here first" rule for water use. Irrigation Rights would be false, if you did not have specific rights deeded to the property by people from very long ago. (My great great great Granddaddy used to run cattle all over this range, so he was given water rights in 1850!) The same with ditches. Since water rights do not matter where the water is or flows, the ditch, stream or river that flows through your land would be a false right, because someone downstream (or up) has already a valid claim to it from a prior date.
A not so great way to manage water, but these precedents are still on the books from the foundation of the territories.
r, I don't use Zoom, so am not much direct help; but my company's IT guys did send out an email recently that might help. There are virtual backgrounds available in Zoom. You could put up a stock back ground or use a good photo. He is a clip from the instructions they sent. I hope it helps.
Zoom virtual background is available! This is a great tool to utilize, since many meetings with customers are taking place in a digital format. To use the virtual background, save the attached file locally, and follow the set up instructions below. Please note that this is a widescreen format.
I don't know how much fencing you have, but I really like "pass throughs" in my fence line, so a person can duck through or climb over, without letting livestock out. I believe they call them stiles in Europe. I like mine as fixed H frame pipe inserted in the fence line. No hinges or moving parts. The gap between the middle bars are large enough to duck down and swing a leg over before stepping thourgh. It keeps foot traffic off the fence wire and helps get a good stretch on the wire on longer runs.