Malus sylvestris [Rosaceae] (apple). The seeds contain prussic acid (cyanide). A single cup of seeds is sufficient to be fatal.
This one always tickles the hell out of me when I see it listed as a poison. While yes, it's true that they do contain prussic acid, the amount of seeds you'd have to eat is just hilariously huge. Visualize a whole cup of apple seeds, then remember that there's only about 5 tiny seeds to a fruit. You'd have to be intentionally poisoning yourself to eat enough to kill.
Now stone fruit pits on the other hand do contain amygdalin which breaks down into hydrogen cyanide. It's still stupidly difficult to eat enough to poison yourself with but there was a "health" trend for a while there selling stone fruit pits and their concentrated extracts as a vitamin supplement, even advertising amygdalin as a secret cancer curing miracle "vitamin" (which I suppose is technically true; If you die from cyanide poisoning, you don't have to worry about cancer) with absolutely no warnings about potential risks. They aren't required to because as a supplement it's not regulated by the FDA. You know the crowd that thinks "natural" means "always healthy with no side effects" has a venn diagram overlapping with the "if some is good, more is better" people and yep, there have been several cases of accidental cyanide poisoning from these "supplements".
The stone fuit pit is poisonous & someone crossed a Apicot(poison pit) with a Almond, which the pit is the nut you eat. So now you can eat the fruit(apicot) & the pit(almond) with out any harm.
We should know what is poison & how much it take to harm/kill an child or full grown adult or harm a fetus, human or animals.
Jack-in-the-pulpit/ Indian turnip is poison, but can be eaten after cooking/boiling. It is so small that you would need 25 to 50 plants to get enough roots to save your life, if you where lost in the woods.
But knowing you must cook it is important, but I never hike without a box of granla bars, they are light, ready to eat & the wraper can mark you trail for searcher.
But I digess.
Bryant RedHawk is correct when he says that heat & boiling will break down toxins, Fried Green tomatoes is one exmaple.
Poke greens is another, you boil poke leaves in water like mustard & spinach greens.
You should drain & reboil again, then drain them to remove the toxins in the water.
This may not work with every plant or toxins, but it does work with many different plants.
It is true that all plant will kill you, just like all guns are loaded & all power lines are will shock you.
You should never prepare plants that you DO NOT know for a fact they are safe.
There are tons of books,blog,vlogs & threads in this subject, no one need to wonder what to do.
Then there is Poison Control: https://www.poison.org/contact-us https://triage.webpoisoncontrol.org/#!/exclusions
There are so many Venomous Animals & Poisonus Plants, I will never remember them all.
That why when I taught Poisonous plant for BSA in South Carolina, I got Peterson Field Guides "Venomous Animals & Poisonous plants."
I have a list of edable flowers also, knowing what to eat raw & what must be cooked & how to prepare it, is as important as what not to eat.
The main reason for the class was to teach persons who would be in the woods, what would kill them & what was safe to eat.
But today we have to worry about our pets/animals also.
I like your list, Thanks.
When my son was 12 or 14 year (2006-2008) he was in BSA & we camped at least once a month.
I bought hand sanitizer so the boys, could wash the hands before meals.
My Dear wife, who believe there is a herb for every ailment, said "You know that stuff does not work & is a waste of money".
I replies " yes, but in the wood there is no bathrooms, so it is better than nothing."
So I do not use sanitizer, no one has tried to make me do it either.
My wife uses "Thieves" which is all natural oils, made cloves,lemon,cinnamon,eucalyptus, rosemary.
I have a tree in the edge of my blueberry row & I have to walk around it to get to all the blueberries growing next to it & have found no seedlings.
No young plants, wonder why my sandy loam pH 0.5 soil does not grow them, the two trees seem happy & full of blooms, maybe they are still young.
I would like a hedge on the two lane road adjacent my land.
Do you have a problem with the seedlings take over, I have heard that it is invasive plant, but I have had it for several years & it has not spread at all.
I was wondering if anyone else had a problem?
Can you share a recipe with us, thank you.
I worked in Richland county with a man from Sumter county, who found a "wild Lemon tree" in the woods while hunting. I had him get some of the seedling for me. I planted them in Kershaw county on my land.
These are the Trifoliate Orange, it took a few year to find the name, but I now know it is a orange not a lemon.
I think it would make a very good hedge & stop most animals, because as you push though the hedge, the 1"-2" thorns turn inward into the body of anything moving into the hedge.
I have not started a hedge, but the way society has degraded in the last few years, thorny hedge around your home could be a good thing.
Also the smell of orange blooms & orange blooms oil, orange bitters & sour marmalade would be a walk in the back yard.
I use kine for prying stones out of the ground as well.
Pulled out of yard an 30 lb. barbell weight with the maddox!
I used a Maddox/madd-ax all my life, it is not a shovel, not a hoe or an ax, but it can do the job they do in skilled hands.
It is best for breaking up that first layer of red clay, under the four foot of sand you have already removed.
When an large animal died on the farm, we dug a 6' X 6' X 6' deep hole so the wild animals & plow would not unearth the animal.
I never knew why 6 foot cube was the right formula, I was just glad it was not an eight foot cube.
What do you want, ground cover should be something that good for the soil, like clover, which will make pollinator happy.
Any aunnal can be planted away from the vines main trunk & root system, no till of course.
When you first make up the bed & plant the vines you can plant the asparagus between the vines, they are harvested at diffent times.
However the asparagus ferns may be in the way of harvesting grapes, but falls right into a food forest complex.
I like the strawberry & clover ideal myself, but you could mulch with hardwood clips & winecap mushrooms also.
I would not mix figs,apples,pears trees with grapes, unless you use espalier, grapes do best in full sun.
I am setting up more of a standrad orchard, because I have the room & need the open grass to pasture poultry & rabbits in my food cycle, maybe sheep later.
The little I have done with food forest, they will get out of hand in a short time, an established orchard can go months without care if the pruning was completeed the winter before & organic do not require spraying.
I was out of the garden for 12 months on health problems & the little food forest went wild, but the row orchard is as is. The blue berries sucker do need thinning, but that the only thing.
The wild prennials,weeds(non food plants) are taking over, many trees limbs are in the way. My garlic beds are covered with grasses & bambles, I am going to clean it out & go back the raised beds in rows.
I like table & wine grapes, but Pierce’s Disease (Xylella fastidiosa) is a problem in the South. So I lean toward micadines, I was raised on wild Bulice/ which is the wild dark purple muscadines with low sugar content.
I have an Italian wine grape, it is small, not very sweet & has a thick hull, but It grows with out help once it is established, I need to make jam with it.
I know women weilders, electricians, mechanics. I was raised with an older sister who broke wild ponies who had never had a rider before she broke them.
I have used the gator, it is okay for small limbs, I limbed a few ovver grown fuits tree for a friend & this is what he had,
I prefer a Farm Boss with a 20 inch bar, but it is too big to get into tight brach growps.
I have a brace & bit, if we have a major failure of power in this conutry, that & other hand tools will be worth Gold.
Here in the South poplar or pecan are good trees, apples,plum, pear & Persimmon for feed. Pasture rasied pigs can get 40% of their feed from the wild, if the correct trees are used.
Domestic fowl is easier, I know nothing about sheep, a little about goats & nothing about cattle in a wooded lot or silvopasture, I understand they are using this in the Rainforest.
I use a freezer &canning, but I want to get more into the root cellar, I have the book by the same name.
MEN Magazine(Mother Earth News):
"In addition to the sturdy root and cole vegetables that are obvious candidates for the root cellar, you can also store celery, leeks, brussels sprouts, peppers, grapes, escarole and citrus fruits in your cold room for periods ranging from two to eight weeks, depending on the type of vegetable and the conditions. Onions, garlic, squash, pumpkins, sweet potatoes and green tomatoes will last until spring if you keep them dry and cool. The place for these foods is in an unheated bedroom or a cool closet rather than in the kind of damp, cold place where apples and root vegetables keep best." https://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/root-cellaring/stocking-the-root-cellar-zmaz90sozshe#:~:text=In%20addition%20to%20the%20sturdy,of%20vegetable%20and%20the%20conditions.
I have kept butternut squash in a basket in the kitchen for about 6 months, just to see if they would keep, they where a little dry, not has wet in the seed cavern as the first ones we ate, but tasted fine once cooked.
r ranson wrote:I got some branches of some wood I like and while they were in branch form, I pealed them, split them in half and then gave them the general shape and size I want. Used the saw to cut them into 2" lengths (for a finished size of about 1.5 to 1.75" long). The wood cracks something terrible so I soaked them in PEG for a few days.
Now it says I should leave it to dry and it should take 60% the normal drying time. Um... what's the normal drying time for 2" long (with the grain), 1/2" wide bits of stick?
Sadly the weather got hot, so it's in a cool part of the house (70F+) with lots of room for the air to circulate but not in a draft. I made more blanks than I need as I expect to f-up a lot of the stages. I'm amazed so many made it this far.
Air dried timber log or rough boards are one inch per year, but being small size, even if it is one inch thick, should be far shorter time.
Many green woodworker bake their chair parts in a metal drum on a woodash/hot coals bed, of in a kichen oven on a cookies sheet on low heat.
I would leave the limb/log full size to bale it.
I let small slappings air dry in a basement for two year to make walking stick for the BSA, in called SA.
Julie Reed wrote:Excellent point. Another (additional) option is a dust collection system so that any dust you create is immediately sucked away and trapped in a filter. Can be as simple as a small shop vac with the nozzle aimed at your work piece, and the exhaust port vented outside, or directed away from your area if you are already outside.
This is valid for ANY cutting/drilling/sanding/grinding operation that creates fine dust.
HEPA are costly, because they will not exhust any particulates, small particulates can stay in a cloud for some time.
Maybe I am going over board, but BLADE magazine had an article on the dust years ago, warning knife makes of th danger & said it is best to treat the dust as poison gas.
However a vent to outside hose that went in to a canister could keep the cloud to a minimun.
Most wood workers use vacum at work piece & Air Filtration System, this should go double for horn & bone, because it can harm anyone walking inside or outside of your shop.
Even worse than thoracic dust is the “respirable dust” (particle size of less than 5µm) as these particles can even penetrate into the gas exchange areas of the lungs and potentially cause all kinds of trouble.
Beyond the obvious method of prevention (don’t use powered grinders/sanders), there are a couple of methods of keeping inhaled dust to an absolute minimum.
The easiest is sorting out some decent PPE. There are many different grades of face mask on the market and even the most basic of these is better than nothing. However, if you are going to engage in frequent or heavy dust producing operations, it is better to get something more serious. In striving for a balance between saving money and, well, not dying of bone filled lungs, the best option for most people would probably be a FFP3 (European) or N100 (US) rated mask. A single disposable FFP3 mask is about £3-4. If money is no object, or you will be working daily with lots of bone dust, some kind of all enclosing filter mask would be much better. Other kinds of filters such as charcoal, HEPA and so on are not necessary as they focus on vapour, exceptional small (<1µm) particles or pathogens. Regardless of the kind of mask you use it is always important to remember to ensure it fits your face correctly – it is no good having a mask that filters out everything if you leave a huge gap around the side of it.
I would use wood & stone or brass & copper, if poisslbe, before useing bone & horn.
That reminds me. I got like 20 or 30 sucker from my ribbiteye BB to transplant, this Fall.
I have gaven some away, but still a lot lift & in 3-5 year I will have to do it again.
I give up on transplanting my red raspberry plants, I just mow the lanes between the row every Spring & Summer.
I have some Blackberries, but not like the raspberry plants.
But, but what does it taste like, I will eat anything that will keep me alive, if needed.
I don't need to do that right now, so are they better than garden greens, almost as good?
Really bad, but filling?
I have grown Scorzonera / Black Salsify – Scorzonera hispanica, . Sunchokes - Helianthus tuberosus, Egyptian Walking Onions - Allium x proliferum. Moles & deer killed my sunchokes, but I have walking onions that are growing wild in the weeds outside of their bed.
"These vigorous new shoots usually grow straight up and can put on a lot of growth really fast, and can help rapidly expand the size of the blueberry bush. They don't need to be cut back. On a healthy bush, they will send out lots of lateral shoots the next year, which will be the future fruiting branches, that will produce lots of blueberries the next year."
I have a few new growth from two year ago that are at six feet,six inches high, because they grew out of a fourfeet, six inch limbs. I will be trimming them back to 48 inches, this fall & rooting the cuttings.
I am going to be careful not to remove all the new grow, I want berries next year. I am now getting a lot of sucker off my rabbit eye bushes, too.
Myron Platte wrote:I fell really stupid and embarrassed that I have to ask this question, but here it is: can I spread mulch over seeds? I know some seeds need sunlight to sprout and some don’t, maybe I should spread mulch and drop seeds on top of that? For context, I’m really lazy and want to be able to broadcast seed everything, but the question still remains for pushing-theseeds-in planting. Maybe I plant in the fall on top of the winter blanket? I’m so confused and I have analysis paralysis over it. What I’m worried about is that they say that mulch suppresses weed seeds. Won’t it also suppress crop seeds? Do I have to start everything indoors and transplant them outside? That doesn’t make sense, because nature doesn’t do things that way.
I had a teacher in grade school who siad The only stupid question is the one you do not ask.
What good is this site, or the internet as a whole it we can not learn from it.
I alway tranplant seedling, instead of planting seeds in mulch, so I learned something too.
SALAL looks like a southeastern tree/strub, Vaccinium arboreum
Common Name(s): Farkleberry/Sparkleberry. which is a smaller fruit than a blueberry, it is gritty because it is full of tiny seeds.
The bark is a bright cinnamon color, that darkens to gray with age. The leaves are round & bright glossy green.
The trunk is crooked & sometimes use as a walking sticks.