Yes! There is a really good protocol that worked for many people including myself!
Take this serious and call Cranberry wellness Center. Ask them for the Lyme Protocol.
You can probably even order the supplies from them or get them online once you know what to get.
GO TO THIS LINK! CALL THEM! DO THE PROTOCOL!
You'll likely be completely restored in about 4 months!
I'm worried about what I just did.
I'm building Mike Oehler style earth integrated shelter.
I started a small portion of a wall using fresh cut hemlock lumber (2 x 10's).
Polyethlyne on the back, cardboard behind that, then back filled with gravel & dirt.
Will the lumber dry out properly from the air exposed side? Or will it mildew/rot?
Here's an idea to prevent moisture around posts. I have not done this nor seen it, but, seems logical to me.
I personally did not use any poly around post at all. I added to the dirt around the posts: wood ash, borax & diatomaceous earth to discourage microbes.
Time will tell if I made a foolish or wise decision.
That area where the water stands is 2ft. below the rest of ground - it's to be an indoor root cellar/storage room.
It's simply rain water that does not drain away. Water has been there for months despite little rainfall - high clay area.
I used to drain it but it proved to be constant battle every rain.
I'll soon cut out a trench now the roof is on.
Unfortunately since I'm the only one working on this, I have to deal with these things way longer than I'm comfortable with.
I figure since all posts are larch, they can tolerate it for a while.
2 years ago I put in the ground ~ 100 cuttings of a prune job on a weeping willow tree.
My goal is to use them as a pioneering species to help suck up excessive ground moisture while providing carbon for the soil by means of chop & drop.
Eventually plan to replace most of them with fruit/nut trees, perhaps food forest.
Nearly everything made it perfectly fine and is taking off beautifully.
The average diameter is now ~ 2-3 inches. Some are ~ 1" diameter.
When would be an ideal time to start coppicing some of them?
Is there a diameter size I should be looking for? Age of tree matter, etc.. ?
Any modern LED headlamps (or any lights for that matter) that put off a more natural amber colored light?
The new blue LED fad is not good. It's known that blue light, especially at night is terrible for health.
It stresses mitochondria & circadian rhythms. Search for ' Jack Kruse blue light ' videos for more in depth info.
I personally find that the blue light is actually irritating & makes it harder to see things as the contrast is so out of range with nature.
I actually enjoy digging so, it doesn't feel like much of a waste of time for me.
About the plants:
Yes, the cattails and various other plants which I don't know the name of showed up several seasons later completely on their own.
I assume the wildlife & wind brought in the seed. Perhaps the seed was already there in the soil waiting for a disturbance to take advantage of ?
"If you build, they'll come"
Actually early on I did try transplanting watercress & some other water plant growing in amongst the watercress but, due to the constant level change in the pond, they died out rather quickly.
I personally don't feel qualified to give much advice. I just instinctually went for this and figured I'd observe and learn as I go.
There are various places online for calculating how big a pond per the catchment area up hill. Might need to spend some time searching terms such as "pond catchment calculator" etc...
In my scenario, I have my spillways exiting back onto my property to ensure no water dumps onto the neighbor's property.
The spillways lead right to many micro-swales all over my property so I'm not concerned of catastrophes.
However, with my limited experience, I'd suggest that you pay very close attention to where you're pond water runoff would occur.
Make great efforts to direct your spill way in a manor that will not leak water on their property. Pay attention to the contour of the land all around (especially downhill of) your pond site.
After the spillway, create a swale or drainage ditch tipped slightly towards your property if necessary as a redundant backup safety feature.
All of this of course depends on the site. You have to be aware of how all the land lays. I did not guess on this. I used an A-Frame level to survey the land prior to even thinking of digging.
Also, add extra clay to the pond were it borders the property boundary.
If I had the money, I'd have a shop making all kinds of quality tools. I can't stand the 'mediocre at best' quality tools provided most stores.
I'd rather spend far to many hours making my own stuff than waste money on landfill ornaments. Besides, it's fun making things.
James Everett wrote:wish I could dig ponds by hand relatively quick it takes me a month or two to work at mine as I have to use pick axe and rock bars to beat through the caliche. but I love how yours are shaping up.
I can fully understand, looking at your photo, it looks to be very challenging digging by hand. I was lucky in that my soil was easy digging of a depth of several feet till I hit rocks like in your photo.
I'm thinking perhaps adding water to your excavation might help loosen things up? A sturdy broadfork could help break things up as well. Meadow Creature makes some that are up to challenge.
To see a broadfork I made from their inspiration check this out.
Felt the need to have my own broadfork instead of constanstly borrowing one from friends.
The meadow Creature is very awesome tool but, I'm not at the place where I can reasonably afford one so, I made 2 for the price of 1.
Designed up in CAD software, local machine shop plasma cut the blades per 3d model.
Had a market gardener friend weld it up.
Good point about time better spent, I understand especially now after completing it.
I'm the kind of person who likes to try things the most hands-on and thorough way, at least once. Much can be learned that otherwise may never be.
The immense time & effort is somewhat of a meditation & therapy for me. Obviously a major workout physically, no need to spend separate time exercising.
I'm not too interested in doing this again by hand unless it's a tiny pond- (which I actually did early this year lol. It's about 8 ft. x 4ft. x 2ft. deep.)
There is a lot of free time in my life and I'm physically capable so, I did.
During this time I've been planting trees, propagating, scything, chicken tractoring etc... I keep myself very busy.
I do all this knowing that it'll be worth it in the future, then I can relax and enjoy the fruits of my labor.
After digging down about 4 ft. while I was inside the pond, I hit some wet gravel and began to sink!
I immediately thought about what Zach Weiss mentioned in one his presentations. "When you hit wet gravel, Stop! Get out right away". Yes, good advice indeed.
A few hours later trying to drive myself out, the machine was up past it's tracks and was stuck in via. vacuum.
It started raining soon after & I had to call up the rental place to tell them I got the machine stuck.
They brought out a bigger excavator in attempts to pull it out - no avail. So they had a huge excavator & driver come out who luckily was in the area.
I was terribly afraid I was going to pay tons of money for all this trouble, while not having completed my pond.
The Huge excavator pulled the mini one out easily in about 5-10 min. Since this was such a short job I figured I'd ask the operator if he could dig the pond deeper while he was right there.
He agreed and in a few digs with the 4ft. bucket, the pond was over 8ft. deep! On the way off the property I was starting to dig my WOFATI -ish foundation. He also did some roughing out for me saving weeks of manual work!
So when it was all done, not only did I not get fined for all this trouble but, made out very well!.
However, since this pond was very roughly carved out, it quickly filled in with loose soil to where it's only about 4ft. deep as of now.
I plan to someday muck out the bottom to regain a lot of depth.
Here's the results thus far:
Pond is based on contour lines, upper and lower.
This area was chosen as it's a natural drainage area in the landscape going right into the neighbor's property.
The damn wall is about 1-2 feet from the property line!
Overall shape is relatively round, approx. 12-15ft. across.
Excess dirt is planned to help cover the WOFATI -ish structure coming soon.
I've heard from 2 or more electrical engineers that resinous trees such as pine trees are good at mitigating the effects of the electrical component of EMFs.
Also good at blocking 5G and similar microwaves. But they warn that the Magnetic radiation is very difficult to deal with.
It's my understanding that the trees extend the earth's grounding effect thus pushing away the undesired EMFs.
A wofati or similar earth bermed shelter should take care of some of this concern.
Influence of Trees
on the Spread of Electric Fields
beneath Overhead Lines
There's better pics out there but, I can't find them now.
The Soil was fairly heavy in clay. I set aside the purest clay I found and packed it all along the damn wall using a sledge hammer and stomping in really hard with feet.
I also created a clay lock but, I didn't go as deep as official pond builder say to. I felt I'd see what I could get away with since the clay content was high. Mainly since I was doing this solo, I didn't have the energy to do it completely by the book.
However, where the original grade meets the above portion of the damn wall, there was a bit of original soil that I should've removed more thoroughly. This was covered over with clay but, not sure if the few inches of clay was adequate.
Overall, the pond holds water pretty well. Every so often (~ once a month) the pond level drops up to about 1 - 2 feet. I'm OK with that since it fills really quick and easily.
Pond project back in 2016. Dug entirely with a shovel, pick axe & bucket. Approx. 1 month entirely by myself. Average day about 12 hrs.
About 3/4 the way through, I felt like giving up as it was wearing on me. I had to finish however so, I pushed through till the bitter end.
Based on contour lines, upper & lower.
widest dimensions: 30 ft. x 15 ft.
narrowest: 8 ft.
depth: 6.5 ft.