My go to antibiotics contain berberine: goldenseal (endangered), barberry and Oregon grape root. I use the latter more often than the others and strictly avoid the goldenseal. There are MANY other antibiotics, anti virals and anti microbials out there. Many, if not most, are quite easy to grow for yourself.
One other thing to consider. Why many compounds are toxic the DOSE to toxicity needs to be investigated and questioned. Comfry, for instance, has been determined to be toxic because it was fed to 6 month old rats as 30% of their diet for a long term. Well SOME of the baby rats got SOME lesions on their liver. So, in our herbal practice we do not do that. We also do not give it to pregnant ladies. We are very careful with small children just to be careful. We have never had an issue with adults.
Caution is good but willow is actually very safe. You can use it green or dried. It does take a bit more to reach effectiveness, especially if you are using whole plant material instead of the tedious inner bark scraping. My primary concern is herbicide and pesticide spraying. While it is true that chemical concentrations vary, this is true with ALL home remedies. There is only so much you can do to control that without a lab. But who wants to do that. For each batch you will need to start at a low dose and work up to what works for YOU.
Feverfew is a good Migraine medicine. It will need to be used as a tonic rather than as an acute symptom medication though.
For tension headaches there are other herbs that will work better than willow: lobelia, valerian, chamomile, cramp bark and many others that work on the nervous system.
Also for your information there are many willow type plants that can be substituted: aspen, poplar, birch are most of them. Others have been mentioned above.
We have what I believe is the WILD variety that grows on our property. IT IS QUITE invasive and will take over whatever else you are trying to do with your property. Maybe with some use for it it may not be quite such a PEST, which it is now. Well, other than provided nourishment for the pollinators.
For the dew processing method in dry areas: could one lightly mist it each morning if there is not any moisture?
I have not used deodorant for YEARS and rarely have odor. I attribute this to eating better. I also feel that not applying garbage to my underarms eliminates the environment for bacterial growth. Usually those rare cases of odor can be traced to a stressful situation. A bit of Tea Tree oil helps with those rare instance.
Heat destroys the medicinal properties of garlic, ONLY USE IT FRESH. Probably the same goes for ginger. I actually hate putting heat on ANYTHING medicinal except were absolutely necessary (barks mainly).
Did some research on the Amorpha fruticosa (false indigo) plant being mentioned. Don't want to risk ANOTHER out of control plant, so I think I will plant Licorice instead. Is a fixer AND a cash crop too.
I have been wanting to do a docuthread for this. Just have not gotten around to it. I will at least get some pics on how I set up the lid and post them. I have also come up with a unique way to hold the product under the water that I will include as well.
I am not sure what you mean by a brine ferment.
That was my first ever ferment. I used 1 tablespoon of salt distributed. I let it go about 5 days.
Later in the year I made a kale ferment. Same amount of salt. WAY too much, especially towards the bottom of the jar. I used about 1/2 the salt on the chard ferment I started yesterday.
Don't worry about questions. I like answering them.
Dawn Hoff wrote:Sorry - wrong wording I'm not a native English speaker,
However: there are several strands of beneficial bacteria
The word you are looking for is STRAINS, not strands. And don't you DARE apologize, that is an English lesson for you!
Whether started with natural or whey the result is the "same", fermented food. I put it in quotes because as you said, you do not like the result as much. Others do like the result. It is a preference that must be discovered.
Dawn Hoff wrote:Have you tried to sprout them instead?
That is a GREAT idea, a better option than cooking which destroys much of the nutrition.
According to many of the people I know who are master fermenters, whey is not a good option for fermenting veggies - the bacteria in whey are meant to break down lactose, not fructose.While whey may primarily be a lactose product people have been using it for generations with success. Also, it is always best to let the naturally occurring bacteria start and do the work.
Fructose is a product of fruits. Here is an article that may explain the different types of sugars in veggies.
allen lumley wrote: the female will come back to the same tube or tube set nearly 20 times
That would be 20 times PER EGG CELL
allen lumley wrote:You end up with possibility that the last few eggs she lays at the end of her season may not be her best work, a stillborn mason bee
will block the tube for the other mason bees further down in the Mason Bee Nesting Block.
The first part is true, but not the last. The mason bees will just chew through any dead cocoons on its way out of the tube.
allen lumley wrote:Also, if late in the season 'she' is found by and colonized by Bee Mites they will get carried back to the nesting block and feed on the developing Bee Larva
I do not believe this is true. Mites are a problem, but I do not ever recall reading that they "feed on the bee"
allen lumley wrote:Contaminated Mason Bee Nesting blocks should 'bee' isolated and cleaned or destroyed! The tubes that are placed inside the Nesting Blocks can
'bee' as simple as a paper drinking straw snipped to length !
This is a good place to point out that many of the nesting blocks have been split down through each line of holes to facilitate taking them apart for inspection and
I HIGHLY recommend the split block system versus the solid block one. As noted, if you do use the solid block, please get paper tube inserts for it.
allen lumley wrote:Being both lazy and cautious, I pop the blocks in a large zip lock back and throw them in the deep freeze in a marked bag, and when my wife or I next get into the
freezer, at least 48 hours later, we remove the nesting blocks 'till next year' hopefully this added step will cut down on Bee Mite infestation !
Not sure this would work. Mites survive in the wild through freezing Winters. I don't have any other suggestions though.
I have only tried the block thing purchased from www.crownbees.com. My first year at that. I need to review when to pull the cocoons.
I guess the short answer to your question is: Yes, the cocoons should be pulled so you can inspect for disease and pest damage. I think the only one that you can't do that is when you have a solid block that is drilled and don't use inserts for the nesting.
Thank you for your information. I have been intrigued by edible fungus off and on for some time but never found anyone nearby to mentor me. I have a question though:
Christopher G Williams wrote: it's most obvious benefit being that it repels water, is lightweight and resists decomposition if processed correctly.
Why would that be OBVIOUS? Obvious is one of the most abused/misused words I see. It implies previous knowledge of ALL which OBVIOUSLY would not be the case in something obscure, such as fungus collection.
Don't know of any Mason Bees that bore. I know they use existing holes though.
It is my understanding that once they choose a place they are pretty set on it. You may have luck attracting them to a nesting site (the bamboo for example) if it is placed in the area. Once you see them using the bamboo you could calk all of the holes they would use otherwise.