Just to add to what folk have said, lots of good advice here, soil test is important to get a general sense of what is going on but it will be best regarded as a benchmark. As an urban lanscaper of several years I can tell you that every cubic foot of soil you test is going to give wildly different results. It has been moved, removed, and dumped where it lies.
Fungi, particular ones that grow mushrooms are potential remediators for your soil. Dispose of the mushrooms away from a food area and save some for taking tissue samples of flushes so you could monitor the progress metal removal. Tests can sometimes be done cheaply through a local community college or university extension.
Organic matter in the form of compost will help to bind some metals in the soil. Some jobs I've laid down mats of mycelium with successional species and built raised beds on top. Others I've used the not-so-popular heavy gauge landscapers fabric and mulched chips and raised beds on top. I second the aquaponics consideration if you can invest in the temp control. You will get a lot of production from it and there is no need to mess with known hazards.
My partner and I moved to Ellensburg, WA this week. We are accustomed to the New York/Pennsylvania flora but we have no knowledge of this dry biome. We intend to raise chickens immediately. The owners of the house we are renting are wonderful people who have already done a lot to the property with multiple raised beds, mulched soil, mature peach, apple, and pear trees, and a great coop. What I want to do is minimize the feed and provide as much fodder from our kitchen and plants in the many potential polycultures we can develop.
What are excellent conventionally-planted species that will provide greens, seed, bug attraction and so forth for chickens?
What are the early succession opportunists that are desired by chickens? in the Delaware water gap of Pennsylvania we used tons of chickweed, smart weed, lamb's quarter that we wouldn't plant, but encouraged in certain areas. What can we keep our eyes open for?
My partner and I are relocating to the Yakima area and are looking to get a flock going. We aren't looking for any ladies that are productive to your farm/garden. But if you have any gentle hens that still brood without producing much in the way of eggs we would love to adopt a couple that will raise our first generation of chicks. Also, we are very interested in finding a source of fertilized eggs of any independent varieties (like Rangers) we would love to speak with you too. I'm going to school for brewery science and can trade in beer, fermented veggies, preserves, tinctures, or provide fiat currency should it be the preferred method.
Also, if anyone has any suggestions for small breeders in the area we would be greatly appreciative!
Hey all, most of my study and farming experience has been with perennial crops with animals, and personal vegetable gardens. I don't know how to efficiently grow grains. I'm about to start a certificate in fermentation science, focused on brewing. I've wanted to connect these passions at every chance. I'm am deciding upon two programs in very different regions.
One is Ellensburg, Washington: usda one 6a, 9 inches of average of rain a year. High winds are to be expected in spring. I've never lived in a dry area and I'm doing what I can learn about methods of making use of every drop that falls on the home, wherever that is.
The other is Mount Pleasant, Michigan: usda 5a, 32 inches of average rainfall. Animal care will likely be a more prevalent part of our farming if that is a help or hindrance to this process. There is enough water to support pasture raising.
-Malt barley: Hordeum hexastichon (6-row) and H. vulgare distichon (2-row) in mind. Are there others I should know about? I'm open to other
-How do I grow these species efficiently without compromising the soil I'm trying to build? What can I do to prep the area, plant with/after, animal participation?
-What could you share regarding efficient harvest and processing of these grains so they are viable for malting (sprouting and drying/roasting) at a later date? Is a food grade barrel sufficient to avoid molds?
Any reads to recommend will be appreciated. Thanks for your time!
I'm working on a project for a friend to set up an irrigation system for his garden from rainwater off his roof.
It'll probably be two IBC totes stacked on top of one another. I've seen mains backup systems as simple as using a toilet flush-fill system but I cannot find the links I found months back (oh, late-night research!). Though it would be great to keep the system for rainwater, a mains backup will allow my friend the peace of mind to be away for work for a week and not worry about his still-establishing forest garden. Has anyone put something like this together before?
Also, does anyone have any experience with using soaker hoses off drip irrigation? it seems a finicky process keeping adequate flow, especially if the tank is running low (also, hence the mains backup). I was also considering a solar panel hooked up to a dc bilge pump but more moving parts makes for a more convoluted process (especially when you don't know what you're doing.
ibnahmed Abdullah wrote:
So how much space does a bird need what would you consider a good starting flock and money and manpower are not a a issue.
any advice will be appreciated
I've never worked on such a large plot of land before, and frankly, I'm having trouble visualizing it. But I can offer some advice for guinea fowl raising. If deforestation is a problem and there is minimal undergrowth then the birds will struggle. What is predation like?
My flocks generally make up groups of 15-30 birds that range about a 40 acre area of mixed woodland, pasture, and vegetable beds and orchard. I've never had more than 4 flocks at a time and I've never felt the need to stress the whole system to see how many I can push. They love hunting in packs, moving through the tall grasses, or marching through the woodland herbs looking for anything that moves (rodents, bugs, small snakes). I got into them to control my tick populations, as they eat them and their carriers with ferocity. Unless you are ready to pay to feed them though, I agree with Jay that you might want to consider rehabilitating the landbase to support them. Maybe it makes sense to start small.
I'm not at all familiar with your climate and native species, but in my opinion creating spaces to support understory plant growth is a requisite to ranging guinea fowl. I would look for early succession species native to the area. This will likely include "weeds," many with taproots to pull moisture for the subsoil. They will likely be opportunistic and compete for bare soil. Earth works like ponds, swales, hugel-culture beds and so on will be vital to making the most use of water that falls or runs on the property. These will likely be your best locations for starting your oases of desired species. With some assistance, you can spread these patches faster than if left alone (though this would work as well).
How do you plan to catch them? Are you intending to allow them to reproduce and swell numbers? I raise my chicks with friendly broody hens which seems to help them adjust to my presence and impart a sense of protectiveness on the hens so they don't walk off from the clutch, or abandon chicks in a field. Guinea fowl don't seem to be great parental figures, at least in the climate I'm in (zone 6, wet temperate mountains). It seems starting them with broody chickens (I have a rooster that is apt to watching over guinea chicks too) has improved their subsequent reproduction in the field. Even then, during slaughter times, these buggers know what's going on and make themselves invisible or abandon the coop for the tallest hemlock on the property. There is a balance to be struck between keeping them wild and getting them to trust you at the expense of their domestication. This might be an important consideration to discuss with your partners if you don't yet have a plan in place.
M.K. Dorje Jr. wrote:....Some people like Siberian pea shrub, but I'm not sure how well it grows in the shade.
Thanks I didn't think to ever use fava beans as an understory to trees!
From my experience with siberian pea is that is doesn't handle the shade well. With appropriate bacterial and fungal inoculations I have been able to get some to survive but they are spindly and unlikely to provide surplus nitrogen to neighbors.
casey lem wrote:....I steer clear of decaffeinated because of concerns about chemicals used in the decaffination process. I also wonder about the presence of pesticides as the grounds I get aren't organic. Any insight into either of those topics? Thanks again for the links.
Many apologies for not getting back. There's only so much we can do in some respects. Just because something is grown under organic certification (which is often only moderately more responsible ecologically in my opinion) doesn't mean there are many nutrients in the food, nor are there any assurances that with each change of hands in the shuffle globally this material is being tampered to maintain weight, color, and so on.
What we do know is the process for grounds to go through before it hits the machines. Agricultural -icides will undoubtedly break down into other toxic compounds in the drying process, then storage, and then roasting. Especially through percolation (which encompasses every cafe machine I've ever seen), much of the soluble material is lifted from the grounds. What remains on the grounds when they come to you is broken down into far simpler and perhaps less or (maybe) non-toxic compounds by the enzymes the oysters exude. What we should be a little concerned about are metals, as these are toxic at their base form and fruiting fungi have been shown to accumulate them into their mushrooms. If you are curious to see what you are working with you can drop off samples to a local lab. I use the services offered by a community college soil science department, but your local cooperative extension will be able to reference some options in your area.
If you do take any samples over, please post your findings!
The price range I was looking at was somewhere between 300 and 600. I'll have to save for it but it helps to put money aside when I have a tool in mind. It would be nice to catch images or videos but that seems peripheral for my priorities currently. I've been recommended to stick with a 160mm tube length because it's replaceable. I was also told my a hobbyist that avoiding hot bulbs is better for examining live organisms. Is there truth to these claims?
Essentially, I'd like to buy one machine that so long as it receives care and maintenance will last and keep my interest for decades.
The plant dyes are a great idea! I will speak with my friends who make their clothes. Is there a color spectrum not suited to microscopes? would a beet dye work?
Thank you Zack for sharing your projects, it's great to see other people's explorations. Tea brews are my first go-to whenever I do acquire it!
What are your takes on examining mycorrhizae and root-zone activity? Is this more for a stereo rather than compound microscope?
I have always wanted a microscope and I'm interested enough to begin thinking seriously about getting one. Initially, I want to look at soil and compost activity but I don't know where else this will take me (my fermented sugar snap brine or mycorrhizae off some garden root perhaps). My questions are two-fold:
What are some solid options for machines that are built to last a long time? I'm looking at laboratory compound microscopes, though I believe I would need a stereo to see root activiy?
What, if any, options are there for staining slides that is completely non-toxic. I even try to find things that say food grade but I'll take the general "non-toxic" label for this one. I'm hoping there is a pigment out there that can be made into a stain but that may well be wishful thinking.
I want to say emphatically, yes! go out there and get it but in my experience trying diatomaceous earth for ants, roaches, and fleas I've found the stuff to be utterly useless. I got excited by Paul's article and the science makes sense. He did his homework, but I say no relief with this method. I know this may sound strange but I have two considerations to offer. This suggestion is unfounded by any research which I unfortunately can't do right now but based on my successes with insects this avenue may be of use. Also, find out about the insect, what habitats do they like (under baseboards, below padding)
Nematodes- some garden blends (never treated or with any fertilizer) of species require water and they're ready for spray. This is used for plant pathogens on the microscopic level and hundreds of insects including ticks and fleas. Application is an issue that would require some imagination and planning but these microscopic critters hunt out their prey.
hey there, as someone who is tempted by 4-5 pound flushes of reishi off stumps here in brooklyn i would not recommend it. fungi concentrate metals in their mushrooms. they are so effective that some people (myself included) see them as keystone species but not necessarily a food source. the book below cites dozens of studies that show mycorrhizal and saprophytic fungi being able to break toxic compound bonds and filter heavy metals. one of the studies noted dead mycelium is also greatly effective in filtration.
if you can get to a library and jump on proquest dissertations database you will be able to pick through the most recent studies showing where and to what degree different trees uptake metals and other contaminants, via airborn exposure and from the soil (lead doesn't move and is all over the topsoil from decades back). an interweb search will offer a lot of abstracts too. i love foraging food too but this is one area that city-goers should be cautious with.
instead of leaving the post with warning, let's talk alternatives briefly. i've collected coffee grounds from cafes in the neighborhoods around me. most places have been happy help. i bring them a couple clean empty buckets with lids and they give me the full ones. this material, if fresh, has also been exposed to hot water which will have helped in pushing back competing fungi. i also get sacks of roasted cacao beans and hulls and old coffee beans from fancy chocolate and roasting businesses. and if there are wood workers in your city many artisans get untreated cured lumber so their saw dust and trimmings are fair game too.
I've had spotty results with seed balls. Generally they are best suited to soil that has been recently disturbed and without existing groundcover. It's not to say it can't work but you may want some additional grow medium to ensure establishment. That may come in the form of a couple handfuls of compost accompanying the seed balls (I've taken to planting trees and shrub tree seed balls rather than throwing them on the surface.
6 to 12 inches of biomass is fantastic for the system as a whole but the short term will pose its own challenges. Firstly, if the material is fresh-ish (one year) then the quantity is going to suck a ton of nitrogen from the soil before it starts giving back. this is a natural part of the decomposition. what you may want to do is select species that are hardy to poor soils first. These plants (pioneers!) will support the soil food web you will depend on, encourage fungal growth and consumption of the chips, and blend the soil below and the mulch you've added. I would go for nitrogen fixers (and their accompanying inoculants) and anything with tap roots to start as they'll likely have the structure to support themselves on this medium. Shallow rooted plants may find the 12 inches of mulch hard to spread in with adequate support. It'd be a shame to lose a bunch of 4 or 5 year woodies to a serious wind storm.
The wood chips are going to tilt the soil food web toward a fungal dominated system so woodland and edge perennials will love it but finicky prairie perennials and annuals may find it inhospitable. If you need some help selecting species let me know and I'll do what I can to help.
We're all experimenting and we all benefit from communities like this. The best answer I can give is in the form of a request. Please document, test, scrutinize, and share your experience with us. We all have a hand to play in furthering our collective knowledge-base!
I have yet to work with this plant, but licorice might be a good option. I've been reading about it and will be planting out 4 of them in an upcoming landscaping job. One thing to note, though you may have resident mycorrhizae in your soil, you may not have the respective bacteria that associate with fixers. most nitrogen fixers require the symbiosis of these critters. I have not yet found which ones work with licorice but I have half a dozen blends for leguminous species that will drench the roots at planting.
My buddy and I have been throwing around the idea of producing medicine for our community. We've been working with maceration, and with mushrooms put the marc through a decoction process. but percolation has been on our radar for a while and we're ready to get started.
Though we're likely to make our first funnel from a glass water bottle (cut and turned upside down into a mason jar) we recognize already that our needs exceed this volume. We're hoping to make batches between one and two liters at a time. So we've been exploring other means, any advice would be appreciated as we aren't settled on an idea as yet.
One likely route we've been exploring is sourcing a cylindrical funnel that can receive a stopcock. There aren't many options (affordable that is) with an open top to place the marc in filter paper.
1- Can a stopcock on a separation funnel suffice for keeping out the ground herbs or will we be clogging the instrument? Is it easily cleanable? (there is so little online for this)
2- What could be a way to assemble laboratory glassware to create a percolator with a controllable drip?
my partner and i received a whopping 6.5 inches in the last week in norther PA! out camp got washed out and when we returned there was a slick bluish material sitting on the mud in some locations. i've seen it on river beds at times as well. i'd love for someone to tell me it's something natural but i'd prefer to know if i should be cautious about eating my veggies without further testing.
this is in the fracking heartland, but i really don't want to consider the possibilities..
i wonder about plants inoculated with rhizobium bacteria. i haven't heard much about legumes in the system. perhaps the bacteria that fix nitrogen seems counter-intuitive since there is already plenty in the water you are trying to convert but i wonder if they can utilize the material present.
i'll be doing a lot more research into what you've said silverseeds. my buddy and i are assembling an ibc tote system to play with. our interest is to figure out how to make a system work well for our home (brooklyn). like many locations, its a brownfield here and soil is not an ideal medium. i can't tell you how much a square meter soil varies in toxicity. of course soils shift in the country but you can jump from 200 ppm to 1000 ppm of lead in 12 inches.
we are primarily interested in using a mix of clay pellets and biochar to maximize the niche opportunities for micro-organisms. we were also considering introducing mineral rock powders into the medium. rock phosphate isn't mobile and degrades rather slowly. greensand offers many trace nutrients no longer available in many soils. i don't think we would put this in during our first run, but perhaps they can improve upon aquaponics.
we will probably grow material to feed the fish at the start (only 1 bed to begin with). since nitrogen fixers tend to be particularly hungry for the nutrients they accumulate (like most dynamic accumulators) perhaps they would produce biomass rather swiftly for a chop-and-feed system to supplement our duckweed growth. i prefer aquaculture but for the sake of diminishing the demands city-dwellers have on places they never see, let alone commit to protect and maintain. that's a goal worth struggling for..
i've been reading through several forums but can't buy any books. there is so much information but i've had trouble getting some bits of information. the lady who owns the farm is not going to be present this season and has been raising her flock feed-dependent. we want to experiment with alternatives. what we are thinking now is to raise the majority with the landowner (former garage with surrounding run) and we can select about 16 to move to a coop on the terraced beds (3 acres). i'm intrigued by the idea of incorporating turkeys but rabbits or quail have been on my radar lately as well (unlikely for this summer).
the 40' by 40' paddock will be movable, so we can send them down terraces on rotation. the coop will remain static.
i'll make sure to incorporate the flora on the terraces into the brooding feed. generally i take the approach of diving into projects to learn as i go but i've mostly worked with plants and fungi, i feel far more responsibility for animals in my care.
I'd like to know where this experiment went for you.
I've been working on a seed ball maker and i'm hoping to experiment with planting over a couple acres of terraced beds. Any advice would be appreciated, as you said there isn't much discussion on the matter..
My partner and I will be assisting a seasoned chicken caregiver in her work this seasons. I am happy to assist but I have big hopes to experiment from the conventional practices. Her expertise is in raising sedentary animals that require tons of feed. We want to help but we also want to create alternative models we can improve upon.
1: are there breeds that can subsist without (purchased) feed if they are given plenty of ground to forage? (mainly former terraced vegetable beds). what are good crops to grow that will free us from off-site inputs?
2: if patch clearing is the goal, not eggs, can we design a roosting coop with no boxes? how many birds would be needed to tear down vegetation of a 40'x40' space? i know this is a loaded question, i'm looking for estimates based on tenacious breeds, as i have no idea//
3: if predation is an issue will powerful electrified netting be enough to protect a flock?
4: sepp holzer writes about rose thickets suited for fowl habitat and i rather like the idea building but later growing housing for our birds.
5: can we bring in birds like quail or turkey into the paddock system? birds seem to get nasty with one another in my experience but i'd love to be surprised!
i'll be spending 4 months in a tent this grow season. though i'm looking forward to the books, writing, and chicken tv i do want to have some lighting system for cook preparation and minor building projects.
i've been inquiring into car batteries for our chicken paddock system for some time. but i want to experiment with a one-tote aquaponics system which will require a small pump and aerator. what seems to be the best option is to create/purchase a solar charger of some kind that can be attached to batteries strategically located in the greenhouse (fish), pasture and vegetable beds (electric netting), and at the camp site and workstation.
1. can several car batteries power a circular saw for a couple hours? i don't understand electrical science at all and have been trying without much success.
i know this requires an inverter to get AC devices to run on them. are there risks for damage in the conversion?
2. trickle chargers have been recommended but many that i see don't include battery tenders (still unsure what these are) or charge controllers. overcharging and draining batteries seems a bad thing for its lifespan and possibly for the land around it (overcharging can possibly erupt from the heat accumulated). does anyone have clear designs/explanations on DIY construction of units that can easily get shuttled to various locations? some trickle chargers are designed for continuous use, does this mean they have a charge controller in them?
3. there are solar charging units sold by fence companies as well which can charge 2 deep cell 12v batteries at once. if it has a 10watt panel on it how fast can something like this top off 2 in northeastern PA? i was hoping to have multiple chargers rather than one expensive one, but i'm also willing to spend the money if it means keeping my fish and fowl happy. should i be looking at a 15 watt panel instead, for three 5 watts?
4. i was imagining 1 battery for the fowl paddock (40' x 40'), one for the aquaponics, 1 backup either of these systems, and another 1 for the camp site and occassional power tool (also additional back-up if necessary). is there tech a novice in electrical power of all kinds would not be aware of?
5. what are the advantages to marine batteries? i can't find their voltage easily. i've read recommendations for using motorcycle batteries with their calcium and lead mixes for high-powered activity (power tools?) and connected 12v for steady low usage. is this advisable?
I'll keep using the God Tools then, and thanks for the color indicators.
I was thinking of figuring out a way to build a pizza oven off the side as you mentioned Dolph!!
We were hoping to integrate a kiln and retort in one unit. We have access to 80 lb bags organic cacao hulls (roasted and dry!) but the material is too dense to allow air flow. We were considering running the afterburner through an additional barrel filled with the hulls. Perhaps putting holes into the afterburner would allow the material to off-gas straight into the flames. Any chance you've heard of such a machination?
We also wanted to find a way to use the chimney effect to harness a tiny amount of power with a heat-tolerant fan of some sort, again, heard of anything like this Dolph?
Chris, the design was acquired from this video, to add to Dolph's recommendation:
Dave Boehnlein wrote:I would say that the successful (and happy) guerrilla fruit tree planter has to make a mental shift. All the advice regarding the how-to's is good, but if you're going to do it you need to be aware that a lot of the trees you plant are going to be brutally killed. This can be heart wrenching, especially if you're glassy eyed with hope for the future of your beautiful, fruit-bearing babies.
So true, my buddies and I have been working on guerrilla projects in Brooklyn for three years now. Every space, every one of them, has been sprayed down, mowed, built over, and even guarded by police all day to prevent any access. the last part left us dumbfounded, of all the brutalizing the NYPD is busy doing, we can't believe our trees and shrubs in a public vacant lot were a threat enough to require two police posted in front at all times.
Since our last loss, none of us have recovered. Heed Dave's words, detachment is something I should have worked up towards, and expect that the living system you endeavor to stabilize will be destroyed before you get to see it take off on its own.
It may well not be Fukuoka's suggestion but running a couple pigs through the areas will sort out the bamboo nicely. My buddy in North Carolina got some land with dense thickets that blacked out midday light. In a couple months he had space to extend his food forest and his pigs are happier for it. I'm not sure what kind of space you have or whether pigs are an option but there are some small heritage breeds that can handle smaller spaces.
Running bamboo is a hard thing to suppress. You will always fight it if it is present. It can send runners 3 meters, some I've read more than 5. Some will break non-reinforced concrete (if thin enough) too so your options are removal or maintenance. Is the variety edible? perhaps you can push it back to an edge of your space. Put up a fence (you have the material), and eat/kick over any shoot that appears beyond your visual line. The fence doesn't need to be bear either, encourage existing plants or put in some choice ones. I like hops and passiflora incarnata (maypop) because they are climbers that die back each season, making them easily harvested without trellising. hmmm, beer, pork and bamboo shoots, and fruit...
If you make your solar system well then you can run pumps and aerators of it as well as the electric fence energizers.
When I say well you need to take into account the draw from the different things attached to it and make sure you have
sufficient batteries to handle that load for at least 24 hours.
I liked the idea from the other thread (https://permies.com/t/22159/chickens/Electric-movable-fencing) it would be possible to hook up a solar charger to two batteries at once. One of the fencing companies has a ready-made unit that charges two 12v batteries, while only one is necessary for (4) 40'x40' paddocks for a couple weeks. It will also charge a car battery I'm told. Perhaps I can use this system to top off a back-up car battery for the pumps and aerators and switch out one of the 12v that come with the system in the mean time. Thanks again for your time Dolph!
Our unit had the whole drum glowing red but we didn't monitor the heat. What sort of device could do this for us? I know the location is extremely dangerous, but we have been limited in Brooklyn, big plans, tiny space..
I would love to participate in this. I've done minimal earth works (transfer swales, pond-making, hugelkultur swales) but I would like to expand my understanding of water management. Perhaps, for the sake of keeping it accessible to novices like myself, could you please give us a rundown of what we're looking at. What do RV1, TC16, D3 stand for? Are the arrows showing the movement of water and the straight lines the berms? How does one establish the topography of a property? I use Sketchup but I'm not sure it's accurate or even the correct way to do it.
I'm a good interweb scrounger and I'd like to help how I can..
My friends and I are building a Bachnmyer drum for our seed balls this season. We have some nut trees around we'd like a harvest from. Squirrels are a problem and I hear they make a mean stew. Has anyone shot seed balls with a sling shot?
i've taken to wrapping mushroom butts into my roommate's used coffee filters and grounds. i've gotten some very nice blooms of mycelia in the worm bin that last weeks at times. the only fungi i can think of that might grow in worm castings would be shaggy manes since they love that high-nutrient environment. you can grow them in large compost piles for sure. the issue is potentially losing the fungi to the worms.
after calling kencove and premier i've gotten a little more of a grasp on how electric systems work and both seem like great companies.
so my next couple questions i've arrived at:
how does someone set up an energizer and battery system in the field with the animals? the naive part of me suggested to mount it to one of the coops and took me a second to register the obvious problem with this. much of this work will be far from the house so long cables aren't feasible or desirable.
it seems i could buy a 10W solar panel and mount it atop this system. i need a charge controller i'm told, but are there other items i'd needed to construct a solar field device?
Brenda Groth wrote:i don't think so I had a similar fungus grow on one of my shiitake logs as well, someone said it was something else..but that the shiitake might still be OK?? don't know
my logs showed more of an amoebic patter on the cuts. that said, the growth on the edges may well represent movement from spawn. mycelial growth seems varied and looks different on different cuts. if the shiitake take, competing fungi will not be able to get a foothold. it may take a long while to get them to fruit, it's a patient species.
It's great news to hear the ground rod doesn't have to be driven straight in, that's a relief.
Regarding the 12 volt system (must have been what I saw at my friends!), I began looking into them and the pricing seems a lot more affordable. The stubbornness in me wants to explore the solar options a bit further. Do you think there are systems that perform better than the one you have?
Fencing with aluminum wire is a fantastic idea, but is this mobile enough or better suited to a static system? We want to close off beds and I can see this work well.
i have three concerns with a summer project. my partner and i are running chickens over pasture to clear it. we want to remulch the cleared areas and distribute seed balls of support species, vegetables, medicinals, and woodies.
in what order do we place the seed balls, before or after, or in the middle of the mulch?
do trees get put down under the mulch while herbaceous ground covers go on top?
there will be a lot of nitrogen in the soil (too much in my opinion) between the green mulch and manure. should i be looking at hungry early succession species and slow-growing fixers rather than carpets of clovers and field peas and beans?