Flowers have lots of benefits in permaculture, like plant breeding, adding beauty and fragrance to the landscape, attracting pollinators and other beneficial insects, repelling pests, and also they're just so purty!
Am I the only wise guy who thinks with the last name Thorn, Steve should grow roses?
Jerry Davis wrote:Plants are weird. No 2 seeds seem to produce the same plant as the parent. Even if they look alike, analyzing the nutritional qualities of the seeds, for instance, will show they vary from each other.
People are the same way.
Except for identical twins, we are all a little different.
I have a project I've been thinking about for awhile now.
You guys made me realize how I might be able to do it.
I want to make cheap copies of some manufactured plastic parts.
I can use my homemade rubber to cast molds.
Then make a wad of the styrofoam/gasoline goo to fill the mold.
It expands as it dries so it should press itself into the details of the mold.
After a couple weeks of drying I should be able to pry the part out of the mold.
This will take some testing and experimentation to see how well it reproduces the part.
The strength of the finished part is another question to be answered.
Thanks for giving me something to think about.
Alley thanks for posting those results.
I now know to only use the llimonene version as a clear coat.
The acetone or gasoline versions still work as a glue if you can wait a week for it to dry.
I've never had a skin reaction while making either version.
I'm guessing you are really sensitive to solvents.
Alley Bate wrote:I've tried the 20 to 51 ratio twice now but both failed to have any real holding power. May be usefull as an alternative to penetrating polyurethane clearcoat rather than a glue at this viscosity.
I'll try significantly thickening the mixture for one more test but I suspect limonene is not an effective alternative to acetone or gasoline for this adhesive.
Gasoline and acetone are the only solvents I've had good luck with.
I had better luck with the alcohol free gas than the 10% ethanol variety.
I haven't tried anything with more alcohol.
Satamax Antone wrote:Phil; what are you talking about?
The link in the permies.com post said - Any ideas how he could make it into a science fair project?
That implies someone is thinking about taking this to a science fair.
Being a science teacher I know a little about science fairs.
I was giving advice for what I'd be looking for in judging a science fair.
The permies.com e-mail said "Any ideas how he could make it into a science fair project?".
Well, I'm a science teacher. Here are some thoughts.
1. The pictures are a good idea. They show the steps along the way. Some kids buy stuff and try to turn it in as their work.
2. Acknowledging changes and mistakes and do-overs are good. It lets me know you are thinking and working through problems.
3. The number of pictures are a little much for a presentation, but, fine for a forum.
4. If you can make it portable and bring it in that would be best.
5. If you CAN NOT make it portable - make sure your pictures show you in some of them. You want to have proof you did this and didn't just download pictures.
6. Having your display include evidence of your work is a good idea. Maybe show parts and pieces. Maybe show some of the same tools that are in the pictures.
7. A poster should be neat, well organized, and legible. A professionally made sign makes me think a kid thinks they can buy a grade.
I realize it's been a year since the original post, but, maybe this will help someone.
If you are thinking of turning shorter boards into longer ones, that is totally a thing.
I've seen and used lumber where they took shorter boards and made a cut pattern on the ends that looked like the zig-zag stitch on a sewing machine. Then they used wood glue and stuck the ends together to make longer boards.
A guy demonstrated the strength of the joint. It was actually stronger than the wood.
Of course the factory had a special machine to make the cuts for those joints.
I would think you could make something reasonably close using box joints.
If you are really good you could do dove tails. I'm not that good.
Alley Bate wrote:I dissolved 18 grams of white EPS foam packaging into 51 grams of limonene so far. The mixture is perfectly clear but still a little thin . I'm dissolving a little more foam into it to get it to about the same viscosity as yellow carpenters glue before testing glueup.
Alley Bate wrote:Have you tried limonene as a solvent?
I read somewhere it is used for recycling styrofoam, I obtained some for my own trials and it does dissolve it quickly.
Limonene is commonly used in store bought "natural" cleaners and degreasers. The 3d printing crowd use it for smoothing and glossing ABS prints. I got mine from amazon, it's commonly available from soap making supply shops.
The smell is less offensive than gasoline or acetone but it costs more.
I have not. But, if you do I'd like to hear how it went.
I've tried a couple oils and they didn't dissolve the Styrofoam very well at all.
Pearl Sutton asked me to post my method for making water proof glue.
I dissolve Styrofoam in an organic solvent.
The two organic solvents I've had the best luck with are - gasoline (the alcohol free kind) and - acetone.
They give a little different appearance after they have dried, but, both are super strong and water proof.
It takes a lot of Styrofoam to make a small amount of glue.
It makes a thick gooey blob that is a bit like squishing silly putty in the joints.
It takes forever to dry. (I literally this morning just took the clamps off the box we built 4 days ago)
It expands while it dries. So if my joints aren't cut exactly right it will expand to fill in tiny gaps.
I've only used it on wood and have no idea if it works on anything else.
To test it we took a pair of 2 foot 2x4's and over lapped them by 1 foot. A week later we tested the strength of the glue. We ended up denting the metal chair we had it on and the boards are still stuck together.
I've saved hundreds of dollars picking up pallets and other wood from in and around dumpsters. I have a stool and some shelves built from that wood. I've given away several things made of that wood and made props for church plays.
My grandson and I are building him a treasure chest from scrounged wood. We are even using home made glue that is water proof. (I can explain that if anybody is interested.) The handles will be made of salvaged copper pipe.
I pick up nearly every microwave I find. I teach science and they have several bits and bobs that are good for use in science classes.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:Way to go Jen! happiness is never having to use sprays or other treatments that came from a chemical plant.
As you have noted very well, Nature will handle issues as long as we give nature the time it needs to do so.
I have a degree in chemistry and worked as a chemist before I started teaching chemistry. (and other high school level sciences)
I've been teaching 20 years and keep studying and learning new things to be able to throw new stuff at the kids every year.
The more chemistry I learn, the less I want to eat it.
The problem (in my opinion) is not what the pesticides and herbicides kill. It's how they kill that bothers me.
So, Redhawk is right. The less you can use chemicals in your garden the safer your produce will be to eat.
There are soooo many points where you are spot on with this podcast.
I had been watching the Fouch videos and stopped when they did the one trashing someone that seemed to be trying to do the right thing.
I could give you personal examples, but, I'm not sure this is the appropriate forum for that.
Mrs Fouch reminded me so much of my 1st wife that - that was the last video of theirs I watched.
Limiting your number of bad seeds is totally the right thing to do.
Again I could give personal examples.
A small group of the right people will get so much more done than a larger group with a few bad apples thrown in.
In my view there are lots of things that can make someone a bad apple.
You are trying to weave a complicated tapestry. You need to work with just good threads.
Tereza Okava wrote:when you're scything or machete-ing and need to really put some oomph into it, cut AWAY from you, not toward your opposite leg, for example. those machetes can be longer than you think (i didn't cut off my foot but I sure had a close call).
Keep your knives sharp, even if that means stopping and wiping the tomato juice off your knife. A dull knife is a knife that can hurt you (and that one I learned the hard way).
Absolutely correct on both points.
Cut away from yourself.
Oh sure, there are some tools made to cut on the pull stroke, draw knife, spoke shave, Japanese saw, Japanese planes, but if it isn't designed to cut on the pull stroke, cut away from yourself. I have a couple scars from times when I wasn't careful enough to do that.
I would say keep all cutting tools sharp.
Tools (and knives) sharp enough to cut with gentle pressure are easier to control and less likely to slip.
They are safer and give better results.
I even sharpen my shovels and hoes once a year.
How much should I thin? I've never had this many peaches, and am kind of unfamiliar with how much bigger/heavier they will get. Many of them have pink/orange hue to them, so I thought they were getting close to done...and then this branch broke off :'(. I don't want to over or under thin, so I'd love some guidance!
I've read somewhere that you should generally not prune over 1/4 of the new growth from a tree.
I knew one guy who would take off about 1/3 of the small fruit to give the rest a better chance to grow up big and strong.
So I would say take off between 1/3 and 1/4 of the fruit.
In Geoff Lawton's "Greening the Desert" video he mentions the salinity of the soil on the project site.
I don't remember numbers or time frames. However, he was clear that the salinity of the soil at that site decreased significantly.
Trying some of his methods may help.
Mandy Launchbury-Rainey wrote:If I were able to go, I would like to do basket weaving and make my own coffin - segway!!!
I've done a hint of basket weaving.
There is a lot more skill involved than I had imagined.
People who are good at it have really accomplished something.
I won't need a coffin.
I want to be composted, then used to grow vegetables.
Feed the vegetables to people who didn't like me.
Don't tell them they will be carrying my molecules for the rest of their lives until after they have eaten me.
Being a science teacher my mind goes to experimentation.
You have 100 acres.
There is no law saying you have to do the same thing on the whole property.
You could pick the methods that make the most sense to you.
Divide the land in to sections.
Do a different method on each section.
As a control, do what you have been doing on one section.
Over time some methods should show different results than others.
At this point you can decide which methods to continue and which ones to stop.
Also, if one method gives disastrous results you haven't done that to your whole property.
This advertisement came up on my facebook page.
The "2nd burn" on this commercial fire pit made me think of rocket mass heaters.
They both have an initial burn, a heat riser of sorts, a secondary burn, temperatures well over 1000, and a very clean burn with much less smoke than their competitors.
This clearly shows that good ideas can be used more than one way.
It also shows that sound use of scientific principles can take more than one path and be arrived at by more than one person.
Trace Oswald wrote:I have a bunch of fresnel lens sitting around waiting to be used for something. You can get very large ones for free nearly every day. Just go to Craigslist free stuff and look for projection TV's. No one wants them anymore because the quality isn't good and they are huge, but the fresnel lens is right on the front and very easy to remove. I heard of a guy that took one out, leaned it up against his garage in the sun, and burned his garage down, so be careful.
Craigslist today in Minneapolis:
You are correct about that source of fresnel lenses.
I got my 18" by 36" fresnel lens out of an old projection TV.
2. A couple of days ago, a “dog vomit” slime mold appeared on my mulch pile. What a fascinating organism! I know it does no harm and can be helpful in breaking down wood chips. Do you think it would be helpful to scoop up some of the spores and put them in my compost bins? The sources I read said it feeds on bacteria, so thout sounds like it might not be helpful. What do you think?
3. This one’s hypothetical, but I’m curious. Say one were in possession of a green-and-yellow box full of bright turquoise powder with an NPK of 24-8-16. If one’s compost pile really needed a dose of N, and one added some of this stuff, would there be any harm in having that extra P and K hanging around?
4. Sadly, I have a 5 pound bag of sugar that got wet. Given that I’m not going to be trying to salvage it, is there any reason I shouldn’t just chuck it in the compost bin with a bunch of green weeds and such to balance it out?
2. They will only grow where they are happy. So, why not try it.
3. The more I learn about chemical fertilizer, the more I think - leave it in the box.
4. Years (maybe a few decades) ago a gardening show was showing how to dilute apple juice to feed the microbes in the lawn to break down the thatch more naturally. Basically it was the sugars in the juice feeding the microbes. They were using 1 can of juice for 2000 or 3000 square feet. So using a little sugar to feed your soil microbes should work, just use it sparingly.
Richard Gorny wrote: The language we use is one of the most important factors that influences perception. One small word can make a difference. If you scream "never turn the soil" you immediately turn off a half of the audience, if you say "try not to turn soil unless absolutely necessary" they might stay and listen for a bit longer ;)
You are absolutely right.
I teach at a school with lots of "Foreign Exchange Students".
Last year we had kids from 24 countries including Poland, New Zealand, Brazil, Vietnam, The Bahamas, etc.
Clarifying concepts, meanings, and instructions is massively important, especially when different languages are involved.
My sister saw my copy of David Holmgren's Permaculture Pathways & Principles Beyond Sustainability sitting out.
She assumed it was some new age philosophy.
I had to explain.
So, I have no doubt there's some misconceptions out there.
T Melville wrote:I'm attaching the MSDS for the sheetrock. The way I read it, it's safe. I thought I saw a mention of fire retardant, but can't find it now.
I have a degree in chemistry, almost 10 years industrial experience, experience reading MSDS's, and 21 years experience teaching chemistry.
That's not to toot my own horn, but, to let you know I have a bit of knowledge.
I read that MSDS front to back and don't see anything that would concern me having that brand of wallboard in my soil.
It doesn't say what they are using as a binder, which should be just a few percent by weight.
So, the binder is the question mark at this point.
Ben Zumeta wrote:I bet someone here can explain how dehumidifiers work like Dan Ackroyd as Jimmy Carter on SNL, but my understanding is that they can leave chemicals in their water reservoirs. I very well could be wrong, but I assumed this is why every one I've ever had has very clear warnings not to drink it, and that's why I don't use it on edibles:
Think of the sweat that builds up on the outside of a cold drink. When enough builds up it runs off your glass/bottle/can and leaves a ring on the table.
A dehumidifier uses the same technology as an air conditioner to do the same thing. Only instead of making a ring on the table it drips into the container until you dump it.