Pearl Sutton wrote:When you are pulling weeds and feel the burn of light contact dermatitis...
So you go in, wash up. All better!
Go back out to work....
I wonder what I was reacting to? Was it this one? (Rub a bit on my arm.) Nope. How about this? Nope.
Experiments!! Not always involved with common sense.
Never did figure it out.
Rubbed all kinds of stuff on myself.
Speaking of experiments;
While living in Florida I ran the mower through a sand pile, walking barefoot behind it. Fire ants were all over my feet inflicting pinpoints of pain. Days later I had tiny pimple spots all over my feet. My brain said "hmm. wonder if it's from the ants? Let's experiment and find out."
I allowed some other ants to bite my feet, and again there were the tiny pustules on my feet. I proclaimed it a successful experiment.
Not sure if that qualifies as knowing you are a permie when... but it is similar to Pearl's blurb!
Lori Lusk wrote:I’ve been thinking a lot about linen since I visited Colonial Williamsburg last Sept. snd heard how awesome linen is!
I’m in North Carolina so I think it’s too hot here …. Though there is an old shut down textile mill I fantasize about reopening with locally grown texts…. Bamboo maybe better but processing bamboo is quite a chemical process..
Are there more heat tolerant fiber linen seeds?
Flax likes early spring here in Southern California. By the time days are hitting in the 80's its winding down. I plan on growing it in West Virginia in another year or two after I get settled there.
Cristo Balete wrote:So are you growing these pumpkins to store over the winter so you can cook them as you go? Or are you planning to cook and can them once they have matured and not store them at all?
Sounds like if it's a matter of storage, which for over-wintering pumpkins would required a cool, dry, dark place like a shed that doesn't store gasoline (for fumes) or machinery with stinky tires, or a generator that would put off exhaust. Be sure they don't touch each other in storage, and if you can put each one up on a couple of bricks a couple inches apart, or cement blocks with the spaces up, for air flow underneath they will last longer.
I used to grow the biggest pumpkin up in a wheelbarrow, then it was easier to move it at the end of the season. But that was just one pumpkin. That was the year we had a Christmas pumpkin, and carved trees, stars, candy canes on it. Kinda fun.
Cristo, I'm growing these simply because I can. Early next year we will be moving across country to start a new life working towards off grid living at age 60! We are moving to live with my youngest daughter, helping her and her family to get 40 acres producing lots of food before we get too old and need help taking care of ourselves without assistance.
I initially intend to collect the seeds to plant after we get settled. I'm thinking to give away the rest to neighbors. Then I thought maybe we will have space to bring a few along. I've also thought to dehydrate the flesh, making it compact and lightweight for packing. Ultimately I really don't know what I will do with whatever makes it to harvest, beyond seed saving.
I've seen at least 2 places (think natural nurseries) out there in youtubeland that are built entirely on just such wood chips. Incredible gardens supporting an incredible variety of plant, food bearing and otherwise. Justin Rhodes did the interview on the one in a more tropical, southern location than where I'm at currently. ( southern California) The other one I can't recall the name of is in NY.
They certainly convinced me of the value of growing in deep wood chips. I think it is a crash course style hugelkultur.
I've got a raised hugel bed that sees lots of sun on its southern flank most of the day and its northern side gets the late hours from perhaps 3 or 4 p.m. til sunset. Mine is arranged with squash at the southeast quadrant, cucumbers at northeast and tomatoes running the full western section. I've erected some lattice along the southern side of the squash to break up the hottest part of our summer days and give them the break they'll need when it finally arrives.
Not sure just how much my planting its first year to alfalfa, flax and garlic contributes to what I'm seeing it support this year. There is alot going on.
Background on the bed; was a partially sunken fish pond with 2 distinct depths that I didn't alter much after removing fish, water and liner before loading the layers. I did leave the wood aboveground frame of about 6 foot by 4 foot and perhaps 18 inches all above ground level, so it is also a raised bed. Once built, I seeded alfalfa and flax. I allowed anything to grow that would and saw a few wild sunflowers, wild lettuce and dandelions.
Before planting it this year I did what I could to swish it around and help things settle before adding additional soil to the top. Fill in some depth where needed in order to be relatively level.
In February I planted the seeds for the small tomatoes, a few cucumbers and 6 of the recently market harvested medium sized, blue-gray skinned "heirloom" pumpkin. I paid about $8 for it. It said jarrahdale. I looked that up in Suzanne Ashworth 's Seed To Seed. It's a maxima, but was only about 12 dense pounds of deep orange, sweet meat! Of those 6, 5 came up and reached the hugel bed. I've since pinched out the 3rd wheel of 1 group.
We ( the seedlings and I) endured several harsh overnight lows for this area and for the babies as well. I resorted to plastic gallon jugs with caps on and 2 layers of shade cloth to keep the frost off. I didn't cover my bananas as well as I could have and really should have because the frosts did enough damage to cause the next in line to flower to do so without leaves or any warmer temperatures to support it. But I digress.
4 squash plants placed over the deepest end of the pond. I have identified no less than 10 females in various stages, the oldest about a week after hand pollination is still not larger than a baseball. I'm certain I've also identified where lateral vines are beginning to sprout that I see have some of those females.
My quandary is do I go for maximum numbers and only interfere by gentle direction and a pinched umbrella-sized leaf now and then? Or would I be better served by pinching laterals and thinning fruit to some imposed maximum limit of fruits per plant? Sort of like thinning tree fruit to gain size and quality.
I have an idea of what kind of monster this may be allowing to go completely untamed. I've grown Big Max before, 3 plants took over an entire large corner of a large yard giving me 7 or 8 fruits weighing in between 25 and 65 pounds each.
All my children and several husbands have been threatened with death and dismemberment if they ever use my fabric scissors for anything but fabric. Plus they would have to buy a new pair to replace what they destroyed! I wore that pair out after 20 years, and replaced them with ones that cut many layers.
You can convince a family member to try a hugelkultur bed, and they are convinced it is the right way to proceed based on 1 flimsily built short hugel-like bed for tomatoes that did better than anything else planted that year!!
This is a great query!
My grandmother infected me with the bug to grow things. She had come from a farming life, and had her own favorites. She taught me about the cycles of life with nasturtiums. Plant the little seeds, watch them grow tons of flowers, and those flowers turn into seeds to be gathered at the end of the season. One of her favorite plants was night blooming jasmine, a shrub with tiny creamy yellow colored trumpet-shaped flowers that smelled simply divine! For most of my nearly 60 years I've had a night blooming jasmine in the yard. I have 2 of them at present. As they aren't suited for zone 6, I will be saying farewell to this one when we move next year.
Grama also loved Johnny Jump-ups, violas. Back then there seemed to only be the one color of purple and yellow. I currently have that one, an all orange, and a purple and orange in my raised hugel bed as I type. Grama and mom loved lilacs. I don't have any currently, but you can bet I'll put in at least 1 when I get where we are going! Mom loved roses and iris, and I have a few of her purple and white bearded iris that I will dig up and take along. Mom and I had dug up her patch to divide and share about a year before she passed, so these are that much more sentimental. The ones we planted back into her patch are now gone. I went by a week or so ago to see if the new occupants would consider letting me get some more before I leave California, and I was shocked to see they were long gone, replaced by sandwich-sized rocks covering the yard.
Settle in good people, this may be longwinded. I tend to run that way in this sort of setting!
To preface my recent research findings, let me share that I am self-taught in most things, and my interest in herbal health alternatives came to me at about age 20. I read a couple books on my mother's shelves by Jeanne Rose and caught the bug! I've been enthralled since by comfrey as one of my most used herbs for healing.
With the advent of realizing my dream of land, animals, gardening, growing my own herbs in greater variety and amounts etc, I am revisiting comfrey for all the additional benefits of this favored plant. Everywhere that you learn more about permaculture, comfrey comes up. I've learned new terms for the uses of comfrey like bioaccumulator! (Gosh I love the $32k words!) But after my extensive search for input here on permies, I was still missing the knowledge that I really wanted. Which comfrey was best for feeding to the critters? Was it different from the one I'd want to use in my Rx garden? Might I need to court the devil and have a patch of common comfrey (symphytum officinalis) close to the house so I could stay on top of preventing seeds and still have it for my uses?
There is also S. uplandicum (the Bocking varieties), S. asperrimum (prickly comfrey), S. peregrinum that was the subject of much of the publication "Russian Comfrey", S. tuberosum (tuberous comfrey) that has twice the chromosomes (72) and is declared unpalatable, S. uliginosum, and something called "Hidcote Blue" that has invasive roots. Who knew there were so many Symphytums!?
Using comfrey to create biomass, whether to feed your animals, feed your plants, or build soil, it will need to be cut several times each growing season. To cut it down to 3 inches tall 5 times is not unreasonable. One set of records kept by a farmer show a first cutting to see 5-8 pounds Per Plant, 12-15 pounds Per Plant for the 2nd and 3rd cutting, dwindling to 8-10 pounds per plant in the 4th cutting and a mere 3 pounds per plant at the 5th cutting. There is some very valuable information right there!! I've already secured nearly 60 plants of comfrey for the property!
I created 3 pages of notes, 1 page per comfrey that I know is out there and easy enough to find and obtain. I wanted to know more about true common comfrey, Bocking 4 and Bocking 14.
I had first secured Bocking 14 root cuttings at riseandshinerabbitry.com . My notes read as follows: extremely robust and vigorous / has a slightly higher allantoin content (the medicine in the plant) / shallower roots / primarily garden fertilizer as tea, in compost, as chop and drop / used interchangeably with Bocking 4, NPK of 1.8/0.5/5.3 / dynamic accumulator of iron, silicon, nitrogen, potassium, calcium, magnesium and trace minerals / earliest and best for most useful job in the garden. An allantoin analysis comparing 4 of the Bocking varieties shows B(ocking) 2 has 0.23%, B4 has 0.34%, B14 has 0.44%, B17 has 0.23 %. With a final note quoting Mr. Hills, "Bocking 14 found most effective in banishing scour risk from foals & racehorses. It heals the digestive irritation, passing through if there is nothing to heal." Then mentioning that calves and pigs also gain benefit.
About common comfrey I have gleaned that it WILL self-seed, is not as vigorous as the B14, & has less of the toxic pyrrolizidine alkaloids which are hard on livers. Since it seems both publications were focused more on the Russian Bocking varieties, and both S. asperrimum and S. peregrinum from studies done over 100 years ago, not much attention was given to the common form.
The B4 has deeper roots than the B14, contains more protein and slightly less allantoin (by 1 tenth of a percent! and so could be used interchangeably with B14), with a wider leaf than B14 and thick stems like S. officinalis, it is the preferred comfrey for food in both poultry and humans. Mentioned was Bocking 7 as being the "best tasting" for humans and that Bocking 4 is nearly as tasty AND has higher yields! I've secured an entire small box full of these root cuttings as well, in trade for some seeds I had. Thank you Trace Oswald! L.D. Hills does say that this one IS self-seeding, but that the way the flower is made mostly prevents pollination.
Something I don't think I fully understood about comfrey until reading the above-mentioned tomes is that each plant can get SO very large. 15 pounds for a single plant seems like a really big plant! I've only ever ordered dried leaf and dried and cut root by the ounce or pound and never seen it growing.
In feeding this plant to your livestock, it is recommended to allow 24 hours of "wilt" time.
Since I am currently roughly 2000 miles from the place where these are getting planted at this time, I can not really address any experience with the varieties chosen. For now my plan is to use the B4 around the orchard trees (to ultimately be a food forest orchard) due to the deeper roots, to chop and drop around the entire area, or use as supplemental animal feed. I will likely use the B14 as a tea to feed the plants, in compost piles and as a green in hugelkultur beds, and of course in the ointments I make. I also think that in order to know which variety I'm looking at, keeping one on one side of the road, and the other on the other will help until I (we) can ID them on sight. (This property sits astride a hill/mountain with something of a road running through it, and my daughter and her family will be on the east side while my husband and I domicile on the west side of the road!)
L Anderson wrote:I just stumbled across this thread. What a find!
I am moving to a much smaller house with fewer amenities (eg no dishwasher). I need a good thick rug to save my poor feet while washing dishes. I have been pondering ways to make one. A good strong thick one that will not need constant straightening out.
This is the rug!
The tough warp and the twined weaving method should, I think, give me exactly what I need. And it will help to justify hanging on to my great big tapestry loom (which I was keeping anyway, but it it’s nice to have a better reason than “I like it” when faced with downsizing to a quarter of current space).
So — thank you for posting these excellent directions.
That was incredibly generous. One day I will post a photo of my rug.
With the twined rugs I make, I've found a slightly wider strip 1"-1 1/2" wide, of fleece fabric makes a very cushy finished rug, but has more stretch so I have to stay aware of how much tension I apply while weaving.
Is yours the Bocking 14? I need alot of comfrey for my plans on the orchard that is a designed food forest. I've already got a number of plants growing from root cuttings I've paid for. I don't mind paying for a few more. Not sure I have anything you would want in trade. I'll moosage you what I could trade some of.
I found this little guy a couple weeks ago when I was collecting water for irrigation.
I love the frogs! We are having a cold snap but for the last month, the frogs have been so loud, just roaring, we could hear them inside our very well insulated house. The kids have to name every frog they see in the puddles outside. It's amazing how many names they can come up with. And the frogs are variations of green to brown so the kids insist they recognize certain frogs and remember their names. 😂
The best part about having a ton of frogs and toads is it means there aren't toxins around. They are ultra sensitive to toxins in their environment. The downside might be the quantities of bugs present to support such a population, but you can decide that for your situations.
I've not canned rabbit, yet. I would imagine treating it like chicken would suffice, wouldn't it? I'm not a big fan of rabbit, but plan on trying again to raise and eat this easy to raise protein source. If it turns out that we just aren't big rabbit eaters I will probably keep up the practice for the wolfdogs my daughter has.
Reminds me that I saw an itty bitty new lizard out hunting in the night. Several months ago I had to move a nest of several eggs, so I wonder if this baby was from that clutch? Seriously, it wasn't much bigger than the tip section of my pinkie finger and pencil-thin.
Do you have to enter credit card info for the thing to work? I see the gift code spot and put in the code, but nothing without the actual cc #. I don't care to have to remember to cancel before I get charged.
I'd hoped to be able to contact Justin through this to finally get an answer about getting chickshaw plans. I tried on the you tube video of the chickshaw but have received no response.
After a much closer look at what I'm misidentifying as rocky/gravelly "soil" is bark mulch. This is another possibility of where the problem lies; IF you don't know for certain that it is organic, untreated with anything but mechanical chopping... I've seen bark mulches come in with some nasty stuff lurking. Just another thought I had after viewing from my desktop rather than my cell.
Alex, what is the soil made of? In the photo it looks rocky. I am in southern California and all my squash over many years always get droopy leaves in the heat of the day. But that's not what I'm seeing in the photos. To me it looks more like an underground problem, bugs that chew roots, bad nematodes, something like that. Maybe look into that as a cause.
William Schlegel wrote:How out crossing works in tomatoes in my experience:
Domestic tomatoes can be almost 100% inbreeding to about 30% outbreeding. This depends in part on pollinators available. They will accept pollen of any other domestic tomato and multiple wild species. Flower structure is the main game changer.
Habrochaites tomatoes range from inbreeding to obligate outbreeding. Domestic can accept their pollen.
Penelli tomatoes are about the same as habrochaites. Except growing the plants is tricky.
Galapagense, pimpinillifolium, and Cheesemanii tomatoes are about the same as domestic. In practice though this means they mostly keep to themselves or only contribute pollen to open flowers.
Peruvianum tomatoes can sometimes accept penellii pollen. The larger Peruvianum complex is a bit complicated. It can be crossed with domestic with difficulty.
Some specific Arcanum tomatoes can contribute limited pollen to domestic. But cannot cross back to the Peruvianum complex.
One specific Chilense population is known for both crossing with domestic and peruvianum. But growing it is elusive.
I have never seen or heard of all these tomatoes you have listed. Are they from other countries as some of the names suggest? Where would I find any? Would adding a few to my own future land race attempts be of any real benefit?
I definitely got the dandelions, but thought the largest leaves were plantain. Haha. I also got the strawberry leaves, but see I may be off on that.
I would recommend investing in some plant identification books for your area, they can often be found at local state park offices. And definitely agree with keeping a notebook on what you have in the yard and surrounding neighborhood with bits on edibility, any medicinal uses, etc.
I know many plants and weeds in my current location, and know I will be learning many new ones after my cross country move next year.
These replies all have great and valid points, and every one has helped me process the sourness I was feeling. Thank you for being a part of my village. I needed it more than I realized. Having read all these responses felt incredibly supportive.
I think that SKIP and PEP/PEX are great ideas to help one define the skills needed to live a life that is closer to the land, closer to your food source... I think they are great for everyone to know at least some of these skills, have at least some of these experiences. I applaud everyone who has contributed to the lists of things to do and learn, and to those who are completing so many and getting credited here at Permies.com for their efforts. Really, I do!
That said, I wonder if I am the oddball who has already done many things in those lists many years ago and feel no need to do them again just to take pictures to prove I can do them? I attempted to upload the pictures of the last one I tried to participate in no less than 3 times and still didn't get them to upload right. I've uploaded pictures of many things here quite successfully, and from my cell phone at that, but this one thing really soured me to the whole "let's prove to everyone that I can do/have done this thing". I know what I've done. I don't necessarily need approval that I've done it.
I like the suggestions from others about things maybe I haven't even thought of in regards to this sort of lifestyle we are all talking about. I like seeing how others have done this or that. I've gotten some good food for thought on posts I've made or commented on. This is an amazing community. But I just don't care to jump through hoops to prove I can do something. Though I DO understand the whys of proving you can or have done the thing. Maybe I feel this way because I've always been non-conformist, or I've just reached THAT age. Maybe, since I know I'm moving to 40 acres of woods, I don't feel I need to prove to some stranger (Otis?) that I CAN take care of the property they might be leaving to me....
I just wonder if I am the only one feeling like this.
Some of you may ask, "Then why did you order a SKIP book?" I did that to have on hand the lists of those skills to refer back to as I attempt to teach grandchildren the skills they might need, because we know they aren't learning much of this stuff in public school!! And hand copying them all is a real pain in the bleep.
Thanks for listening to my belly-aching. Carry on.
Sam- with protein fibers (those from animals) any heat while wet will cause fibers to contract (shrink) and agitation causes felting. Sometimes you might want this result and purposely use hot water and lots of agitation. The result is a smaller fabric than when you started And a denser fabric, very much like the felt you buy.
If you really want to machine dry, do a trial size before your project.
Zoe Ward wrote:Carla, that is a cute quilt, you could definitely make that with the scrappy bits that would be no good for making yarn.
I would love to have a double bed size quilt eventually but will probably start off with a single bed size, or even a lap quilt. Both my kids like the smell of wool so that bodes well for making them quilts at some point.
Hello Zoe. Just a quick suggestion on kids blankets; kids grow and a small blanket or quilt will get outgrown in no time. I've made quilts or blankets for every one of my 3 children and 9 grandchildren when they were babies in a generous baby size. I'm now making new ones for the adults they are or will be. Granted, my skills have improved.
I've never used raw wool, so I can't speak to that aspect. Mine have been purchased fleece fabric and flannel. Very warm I'm told.
Anne Miller wrote:You might try your local feed stores to see if they know of someone. Usually, they know most of their customers, especially the ones that place large orders.
You might also be able to leave a 3x5 card at those feed stores advertising your desire to share expenses or labor to gain access to the products you seek, maybe there is already a bulletin board for such private ads already in place!
Just a note on manures; rabbit, goat, sheep and alpaca poop doesn't need to compost before using on / in your own garden, unlike horse, cow, chicken etc. which needs a year of compost time for health reasons.
Melissa, welcome to permies. There are many rabbit holes you might fall into here. I've been here a little over a year and found plenty to learn about. My husband and I are moving from Southern California to West virginia on 40 acres of woods in the hills next year.
Mike Haasl - if you have time to look again, I think I've succeeded in adding the H---A email to the primary. Did I pay for the kickstarters by way of paypal or something else? It's the only way I can think of to have that 2nd email attached to me here on permies. Again, thanks bunches.
Mike Haasl wrote:Hi Cindy, I just searched through Kickstarter using your permies email (starts with an M and ends with an R) and it isn't in there anywhere. There is a Cindy Haskin that backed the kickstarter but she has a different email address that starts with H and ends with A. Both are gmail.
If that second email is indeed your email, then you backed at the $15 level which gets you one physical book, no ebooks. Please confirm if that second email is yours.
There used to be a Gmail that started h and ended a. I thought I quit using that years ago. How did I even pay for it? So maybe I need to try to see if that one is still active! What a mess. Thank you for helping unscramble it.
r ranson wrote:Is it possible that your permies email address and your kickstarter email address are different?
No. I only have one email. A frequent mistake made by others if typing or writing is to leave out an "h" or add an "e" . I get all sorts of emails from permies.com so I know its correct wherever those draw from.
I hope this is where Paul tried to direct me. The link he replied with just kept giving me a negative response.
Here is that post
Cindy Haskin wrote:
Ok, the e-book is ready! Yippee!
I'm pretty sure my level of support was 2 hard copies of the book and an e-book copy. I've not seen anything in my email about where to access the e-copy. And I've had no further contact regarding when to expect my physical books via mail or other shipping.
And just while I've got your attention, I still don't see the K# by my name on posts. I know how tedious entering all that one by one can be. I'm just mouthing off in case I've somehow been missed, or looking for additional input as to why its been so long seeing the evidence of my support for the kick starters I've supported... I think this is one of the best places for information and helpful suggestions for all the subjects of a permie community!"
For kickstarter support, please post to our custom, exclusive kickstarter support forum!