These guns usually run on heating oil, (read overpriced offroad diesel) but they have natural gas, and propane, versions too, and there are many forums devoted to burning used motor oil and vegetable oil with them.
I've rigged them to be the backup heat source in outdoor boilers and been very pleased with their performance and trouble free nature.
By adequate controls I mean flame sensors, automatic shutdowns if burn parameters are not standard, automatic shudown if CO alarms are triggered, and thermostatic control as every source has notable BTU content.
The downfall of these burners are;
Fuel must be kept scrupulously clean, if your trying to re-purpose an old 55 gallon drum you found in a neighbors field ......this is not the project for you!
Parts are hard to get locally, most hvac shops and supply houses will not sell you components unless you are a licensed contractor.
Advice on setup and tuning parameters will be "hire a professional".
If you do hire a professional, he will want you to scrap the project out of hand and get a U.L. listed appliance.
Inadequate, uneducated, or incompetent, execution of work will result in toxic gasses being leaked into your home, or catastrophic fire.
If you are an able artificer, then an even more trouble free appliance is the Babington burner, owing to its self clearing nature, fuel does not have to be so pristine.
But........many a property has burnt to the ground from overestimated competence.
Even if not owned by the State, there is very little property in this old world not owned by someone.
Trash piles on public grounds, are about the only sites I can conceive of that would be fair game, everything else , no matter how trashy is someones property until deliberately disposed of.
I certainly would be infuriated (and willing to prosecute..and persecute) anyone helping themselves without prior agreement to the various "junk" I have accumulated!
Often stuff sits for years as I collect for this project or that,
I currently engender anger over an old Dodge diesel I have keeping the sunlight off the weeds, with several people stopping and inquiring after increasingly rare parts, every year,
Many of them storm off after expressing disgust that "I'm just letting it rust into the ground".
Fortunately its within sight of the house,
On a previous property we stored an old Mustang in a shed about a quarter mile from the dwelling, it sat unmolested for a year, and then wheels, carburetor, and later seats were stolen. Finally we interrupted someone putting wheels back on it in preparation to tow it away! They honestly didn't think it was theft!
To them it was an abandoned vehicle (they kept saying it was "a barn find?") and they had every intention of applying for a lost title and restoring it.
I agreed not to prosecute if they paid for the missing wheels, carburetor, and seats, and we settled on a price of $1000.00,
I don't know that they took the wheels, carburetor, or seats....but I do know they were thieves, caught red handed.
I've never had law enforcement actually solve a crime .. but I report them all promptly so when I find my stuff I can point to a recorded theft, guns and tools in pawn shops are the hardest to recover, pictures and written records of serial #s are your friends!
Even for the sake of Insurance replacement, a quarterly or at most biennial video inventory of shed contents and shop supplies can be a life saver.
So I reside in N Idaho.
A local farm grows wonderful peaches and I asked his secret;
He said the only thing that allows him to stay in business is because he's on the North side of the hill...and because he's on the north side of the hill, by the time the sun is hitting his trees enough to make sap flow, the danger of frost is over. He continued to say that is he were on the sun blessed side of the valley, that the sap would flow and the freezing nights would cause the bark to split.
This caused me to look at the family orchard and sure enough it faces SouthEast, and yup, the majority of the domestic fruit have the bark split (some trunks almost completely denuded)!
The only trees not suffering are native wild cherries and plums.
Apples, Pears, Korean pears, Queen Anne Cherries and Bings.....all split.
I've since sold that property and hope to move to a higher elevation (3600 ft) The place I lust after has wonderful water is completely in the sun, bitter wind and brutal cold. The only trees I see nearby are evergreens.
Is there a compendium of cold hardy fruit trees that will survive the springs bold sun, and bitter nights? (preferably dwarves...(ladders are evil!))
A junior edition Yanmar tractor (1610D) is my goto helper.
In my prime I could walk flights of stairs with a full 24 gallon bottle of propane on each shoulder, but now I groan at the thought of simply lifting a refrigerator into the bed of my truck,
The tractor and a block and tackle keeps me capable of raising walls, and puttering heavy loads between house and shed, and uprooting trees in spring.
A thirty horse would have been ideal but this one at 19 hp gets it done. It takes the place of wheelbarrow, the hydraulics run a wood splitter, and of course its ideal for scraping snow. A four and a half foot tiller and four tine chisel plow makes the garden easy and if I don't get too enthusiastic a disc although the disc if set at too steep of an angle will set the tractor on her heels. A drag harrow and weed mower keep it occupied too.
The 1610D is remarkably easy on fuel, a five gallon can will last about two months, on the current two acres
The bugs are Weevils and their eggs are so common every single flour product ships with them! You can ingest them to your hearts delight without ill effect.
You can keep them from hatching by storing flour in the freezer, and sifting will break them into delicious bite sized pieces. All flour will have them within a year, if kept at room temp, and hot zones within three months.
Grain stored in a dry ice bath will kill them but..... if that same grain is ground and emptied into a flour bin the eggs will be available and will hatch in time.
If your sensitivity is greater than your hunger .... feed it to the chickens.
If your hunger is greater than your sense of disquiet, thank God for the protein.
If no one else has seen them, measure, sift, bake, and let the perfect bliss of ignorance reign at your table!
If you become proficient with Linux (and I hope you do!) the grandaddy hyper stable version is Debian, the oldest is Slackware.
Debian is not for the casual user (although a determined new person can muddle through!) with the help of the internet and a spare computer to research your mistakes!
Once configured Debian can go for years without notable intervention. Over 250 Linux variants are based off of Debian.
Slackware is for those willing to dedicate significant time to all things Linux. I've puttered with Linux for years and I'm still lost with a Slackware distro.
If you've transferred your pictures and documents from the HP to the Apple, a long winters eve is an excellent time to install and reinstall every Linux flavor your heart is curious about.
Even better copy your hard drive (pictures and documents) from the HP to the Apple and then remove the hard drive from the HP, and set it on the shelf as a backup.
Add a new 120 gig SSD (and possibly a controller for the SATA interface if the HP is still in the ATA era) and any old hard drive for a swap space and possibly /Home if its large enough.
The SSD will run about $30.00 the controller another $15..ish.
SSD's hate frequent writes and rewrites so a standard hard drive is best for swap area, (constantly in a state of flux) and /Home is subject to the vagaries of documents, pictures, music, and email, all of which are deleted frequently.
I usually give an enormous (rarely used) amount of space to swap, for suspend to disk operations when the computer hibernates.
Usually on older equipment hibernate, and sleep, are problematic and you're happier shutting it down completely.
Its a general "Will Call" address, I don't know how long USPS will hold this kind of mail but usually several months.
When your traveling without phones as long as someone has your itinerary they can post a generic note to contact home base over several thousand miles of travel, at postcard rates.
I think you are multiplying your difficulties,
Logs laid on their side can be fastened every 4 - 10 feet and gravity works to hold one on top of another, Palisades will require a connection every log, 6 -18 inches and gravity will work evenly allowing wood to warp in any direction ...that is some will bow in, some will bow out, and some will put pressure on their neighbors.
At the least it seems like a re-chinking nightmare.
In conventional construction the logs provide their own bridge for lintels and other openings, at the least, headers will have to be massively increased to support the vertical weight above .
While the compressive strength of the wall may be increased I have severe doubts that the increase will be of any utility.
In the case of earthquake you are entirely dependent on the mechanical fasteners holding the logs together conventional construction has gravity holding it together and can be reinforced by geometry (interleaved walls at angles), Palisades have an inbuilt shear line at every intersection..
The biggest pit fall is removing the anus, many people ring it and pull it across the interior cavity taking a chance on fouling the meat
My preference is to carry a small hatchet or better yet, a foldable pruning saw and split the pelvic girdle, I cut the trachea and pull it all out over the haunches.
Hunt through the viscera and find the liver....even if you hate it some benighted soul will value it, some trim out the bile immediately some after they're home, heart is delicious, lungs an acquired taste, kidneys only if your from England! after the introduction of Prions and Mad Cow, (in deer its called Wasting Disease) I no longer indulge in brain.....but to each his own, the tongue is too slight to really be worth the time. (Beef tongue is well worth the effort and Elk not so bad either.)
Once the pelvis is broken the carcass will lie open easier and stay open for cooling, add a prop across the chest cavity and you far along the path to cooling the meat in a hurry. Generally I wait to skin the deer until its home and hanging (but always within 4-5 hrs) as the hair slides well and protects the meat.
I dunno if the Boy Scouts in your area are still in the market for the hide ( they used to take them for free, and get them tanned for leather projects, but that seems to have stopped or at least they are not as public about their desire for them.). Its a damned messy job tanning them if you find you like it there a definite market for a tanner anywhere in the country.
Here is a YouTube video of some proficient butchers explaining choice cuts and tricks of the trade:
The key to reasonable water systems is STORAGE.
A 10,000 gallon concrete cistern used to stand out on the High Sonoran desert and saved my bacon on more than once trying to nurse an old overheating Ford into town.
It was fed by a windmill....and yes that windmill was frequently broken, wind is enormously destructive. But!...because there was reasonable storage there was always water, between repair trips by the rancher.
I wouldn't do a windmill but a tiny pump fed by solar, pumping round the calendar would move a lot of water.
If you do above ground storage expect moss in an open tank, algae in a white or translucent tank and trouble free service from a black, buried, or insulated tank with no light hitting it.
Whatever you do, keep your options open for more STORAGE.
I have a 3,000 gallon tank that cycles on at 1,000 gallons and stops at 2,000 gallons, and has a dog it all switch at 2,500 gallons, in case a contact welds itself closed.
With three adults (2 women and the poor old house husband!) and one married couple of neighbors, running without effort to conserve, three thousand gallons gets used easily in a day, that's animals, yard, auto maintenance, laundry bathing, cooking, and waterfights!
Three thousand gallons gives me one day response time if I discover a break down, promptly ten thousand gallons would give me time to Amazon repair parts in......
+1 on the dehumidifier.
I have a couple and the water they make is as pure as you keep the catch basin.
If you leave it with residue it will eventually attract dust and start to mold , but promptly emptied on a biweekly schedule and given a once a month rinse with a drop of Clorox the water will be as pure as possible.
The quantity of water in an occupied house is considerable, but I'd either use it in a basement or a little used room, truly dry air carries heat poorly, and makes your skin a miserable woolen suit!
But in a modern well sealed house an overabundance of moisture is always a threat.
My biggest challenge so far is physical. My fingernails were too long. It took a lot of pain to get them short enough. My fingertips were totally soft and wimpy. They are currently numb from the callus building effort. Perhaps the will resolve itself in a month or so.
Are there any stories that you want to tell me about how you learned to play the guitar? Are there any favorite Internet resources that I should check out? Any songs or chords that you most recommend for beginners?
Although this is a little late....
There is a shortcut for this.....and this is the time for it!
On a traditional wood stove with a raging fire warming it, lick your fingertips and brush them for microseconds across that smoking stovepipe...just enough to singe your fingerprints!
Repeat whenever there's a stovepipe handy.
If your fast enough only the first layer is damaged, and no pain ensues, repeat performance broadens and deepens a usable pad of callous.
Wetting the fingers gives something to mitigate the searing action.
I spent a regrettable year in Spokane washing dishes to keep body and soul together as a kid,
the work left my hands in horrible shape for playing guitar,
when I needed to play for my baby sisters wedding I followed this regimen and had usable pads for a twenty minute file and seat assembly as well as a warning for the groom (Run For The Hills), and Noel Paul Stookey's - Wedding Song, within a consistent three days of scorching!
Spokane was a bitter experience for me, Ray Lamontagne's - Jolene, captures the experience perfectly, gritty, heartbreaking, and hopeless.
My permies (until about three weeks ago) used to autologin for me, now each time I restart the computer I have to login again.
Firefox is retaining the info....but the remember me checkmark is no longer there, and in its place is an option to "disable autocomplete to please my password manager"?
It comes with 32 gigs of ram and a terabyte ssd, I added a 120 gigabyte ssd that I installed LXLE on and added an old 250 gigabyte hard drive for swap space and ./home files.
The terabyte drive comes with WIN10 and a recovery drive in place, remember when setting up win10 if you don't want a Microsoft account, google "setting up win10 without a Microsoft account" and it will allow a local email address instead.
It runs seamlessly and is especially snappy with LXLE.
Downside is although it has a dedicated GPU it still only uses a VGA interface so I will be adding in a card with a HDMI interface to feed it through a 55 inch TV (Cmon! its cheaper than buying another monitor!)
Unless you have a use for it that "belly" is a permanent feature of the trailer, I hauled one of those for years and that belly will seriously limit the places you can take it.
The ones I hauled were rated for 102,000 lbs so your tiny house will have lots of options, but.....that 12,000 lb is an empty weight and once loaded you will almost certainly need a semi tractor to move it, it will have air brakes.
YMMV but I would get one of those "cheap" flatbeds rather than a chip hauler unless you have a specific need for that deep belly.
As you look at them you will see many of those flatbeds have an inbuilt "arch" that settles out under load, if you structure is not heavy enough it will definitely flex as you travel!
I remember as a kid seeing old Soviet newsreels about exposing children in school to U.V. to combat the lack of sunshine in Siberia.
There are several flavors of U.V. and some of them contribute to cancer so they may have discontinued the practice.
But I would think full spectrum lighting would go a long way towards creating "normal" conditions!
Snap caps are used to protect the firing pin, in every civilized locale, dry firing (pulling the trigger on an empty chamber) a gun is considered gauche, (and possibly will get your nose rearranged if you do it to a strangers antique!)
If you ever watch an old timer test the trigger pull on a single action pistol, you'll see him slip his thumb between the firing pin and the hammer to protect the firing pin from dry firing.
On conventional dies it usually sizes the forward 3/4 portion of the brass, because the body of the die is tapered, to facilitate a slow (comparatively) remolding of the brass.
If you have an extraordinarily tight chamber (unlikely) over a short time this taper will begin to act as a wedge keeping your bolt from locking into battery, usually there are safeguards to keep a gun from firing out of battery, but rarely they will fail, if you have a snap cap you can run a reasonable test.....put the rifle into battery chambering the snap cap and see if it will allow the firing pin to fall, as you incrementally open the bolt. (By incrementally i mean a few thousandths at a time) if it will, don't take a chance and ensure the round is small enough to chamber completely.
Slamfires are a known problem with this model. Usually a combination of heavy firing pins, and a lack of inertia canceling springs, cause slamfires.
A small base die is just what it sounds like, it forces the round through a sizing ring to ensure the round is back to factory specs.
A competition AR10 is likely to have a chamber that tight, a custom made bench rest rifle perhaps, if you do...count your blessings.
I'm with the group that says you are jiggering with a family heirloom, and unlikely to find its the ideal candidate for your hopes,
There is a reason every serious competitor shoots bolt action rifles.......or conspicuously spends bukoo bucks,
You will pour a considerable amount of money, into this rifle to get it to where a $300.00 used Savage starts.
As long as we're here let me recommend Savage (and their Accutrigger) as an ideal platform to experiment with, barrel swaps are cheap and easy, the Accutrigger system can be reduced way below common sense, if its an early model, aftermarket triggers are far from rare, there are stocks galore, there are so many you never need to feel pressured to buy one, a good used rifle will be available everywhere.
Savage, Mossberg, Tikka and Ruger .....all excellent rifles, These companies are more interested in assuring customer satisfaction, then wringing the last dollar out of each sale. Of the lot Savage is the easiest to adapt has a broad base of gunsmiths making cool things for it, and just like an old Chevy if something breaks there are probably a dozen within spitting distance to rob parts from.
Governments lie like rugs,
To hide their true battle capabilities, to minimize their risks of liability and to encourage freer flow of funding!
And since its a test range,
Its a total crapshoot, there is no reason to believe any of the data presented,...unless you conduct it yourself.
And since its a test range every boundary will be pushed past it's previous parameter....that's the purpose of testing.
And as those capabilities expand so will the desire (and need) for ever greater range....so what was previously a safe haven may not be so in a few years.
Obviously from the Governments stand point, let the paltry few denizens stay, and if there's a horrible accident, tax the rest of nation enough to compensate them ...and then tax them on their compensation.
There may be variations on this theme, but they've got lots of fall guys between the courts and the decision makers.
Conversely if you value mama, and the kids, and want to invest your time in building equity......this is a good place to be from!
None of these cleaning steps will make a marked difference in how the ammo shoots though,
Their utility is in forcing you to look critically at each piece and seeing if the flash hole is obstructed (prior to priming) and to see if hairline cracks are forming, or if the neck is possibly off center....
If you intend to reuse the cases a lot learn to anneal or your limited to 2-3 loadings at max capacity and another half a dozen at moderate pressures,
learn to look at the base of the bullet for a ring (right where the web of the base connects to the walls) as its a sign if impending head separation,
trying to remove a headless case that's been form fitted to your chamber is a chore that will consume far more of your life than your willing to sacrifice!
FWIW.. I try for the sake of consistency to find a powder that come close to filling the case, with a published load,
Its a false economy to buy powders that are so energetic that only a few grains are needed,
there is a great deal of info on shot to shot variations caused by powder position in relation to primer, a full case presents the same relation every time.
if you're betting twenty bucks per shot with your know it all brother in law......then separate by headstamp....then weigh them and divide them into twenty shot groups (one commercial box worth) by closest weights..... Of course if your down to that level of perfection your gonna want to turn the necks for concentricity, and render the flash holes uniform...
And what will it net?
If your running a heavy (as in 16 lbs +) bench rest rifle, on a solid shooting rest, it could be the difference between shooting a 1/2" group vs shooting a 1" group at 100 yards.....but if your shooting a light rifle from a shooting stick or just a casual sling wrap, you'll never hold it steady enough to tell the difference between a 2 grain difference in load volume.
Very rarely a manufacturer makes a gross difference from his competitors but usually case volumes are within a few percentages of a grain within factory lines and within a couple of grains across the entire spectrum of manufacturers.
Still its worth being as consistent as possible, so I usually sort them by headstamp.
Same thing with crimps if your shooting a heavy rifle from a bench then crimps are rarely an addition.....because you'll be loading one round at a time, from the box to the chamber, with no time spent in the magazine.
But if you're putting rounds in the magazine and they are slamming back and fourth under recoil, having a heavy crimp holding the bullet in place can be the difference between shots downrange or a magazine full of loose powder, bullets, and empty brass, or worse cartridges far under minimum overall length, developing tons more pressure than SAAMI recommends.
Once again Lee shines here with its Factory Crimp Die, Hornady makes an equivalent. while its an additional step the Factory Crimp will allow a ferocious crimp while keeping the case from buckling.
I use Lee gear extensively and am thoroughly satisfied with it.
The only reason to buy other than Lee .....is that you've found a more economical set of dies used.
Any 7/8 x 14 threaded die will work in your press, if you've the "lock and load" bushings you'll need a set of those too, or you'll need to repurpose an old set.
Reject any die that shows rust or pitting.
Most important piece of equipment you'll need is a lubricating pad and case lube, One Shot spray on lube, works well too, but its messier.
Don't fail to lube every single case! A Qtip on the inside of the neck will help a lot make sure the lube you use won't contaminate your powder
Personally I like Lees ALOX lube, but a lube pad is faster I think. On a bottleneck cartridge there are no short cuts.
Don't forget an excess of lube especially wax lubes can be detrimental too......
If you use Lees neck dies rather than full length resizing you'll get more reloads between annealing tasks.
But if you're using brass picked up at the range you should run it through a full length die at least once, neck dies are only if its a one rifle proposition.
Most presses come with a fairly clunky way to deal with primers, Lees Auto prime is far faster, and well worth the money.
For best accuracy weighed charges are better than thrown charges, for thrown charges ball powder is more consistent,
Finally IMHO the craze for hyper speed is best if you can't understand ballistics.....(that is you want to aim dead on at every shot without considering the actual path the bullet takes) but study after study has shown speeds around 2500 fps to 2750 fps spoil much less meat.
Personally I prefer heavy bullets at lower speeds, they break bone and leave a better blood trail than a fast light spitzer
At these modest speeds a plain base bullet is wonderful in its accuracy, a boat tail starts to make a difference way out there at 600+ yards,
If your hunting at less than 300 yards then a soft point, or a round nose driven at 2700 fps is hard to beat.
Unless its required by the state your hunting in, pure copper bullets are a PC solution to a non existent problem.
So I gotta coupla old houses I am repairing for rentals, Both are in need of economical heat, RMH's are not really a viable option, due to liability issues, wall mounts (as in baseboards) are less than desirable, due to the inordinate quantity of wall space involved and, wall mounts (as in Cadets) are obnoxiously loud!
Sooo..... Oil filled radiators seem to be the best option....but a permanently mounted wall installation is needed to satisfy my insurance company.
European, (and Scandinavian) markets offer units like these;
https://www.amazon.com/CHENNAO-Oil-Filled-Radiator-Adjustable-Thermostat/dp/B0834M6DTP/ref=sr_1_205?dchild=1&keywords=wall+mount+heater&qid=1606775294&s=home-garden&sr=1-205 But damn me for a blind man! I cant find any U.L. listing or other reasonable assurance of suitability on them, neither can I find one manufactured in the States.
Does anyone know of a comparable unit with both a U.L. listing, and without a $300.00 import fee to get it to the U.S.?
One of the things I've found with both YouTube and Facebook is that once they think they've got you pegged they serve up the most monotonous regurgitation of the exact same drivel day after day after day.
One of the joys of the net is its endless variety....prior to the current leftist drive to make it a tool of indoctrination.
A news aggregator site with a decided right wing slant is; https://www.whatfinger.com/ It may be no more truthful than the rest but at least its a refreshing contrast to the tedious script parroted by ABC,CBS, NBC, and CNN. (and for that matter the BBC!)
MeWe seems an excellent replacement for Facebook, currently the landscape has lots of room for innovation, there is no "marketplace" or local trade mart landscapes are very sparse.
Twitter has always seemed like a solution in search of a question to me, frankly I don't think any thought can be expressed well in the limits imposed, that's why Trumps announcements / tirades seem vaguely unhinged .... at best its a platform to talk to other people rather than with them. At the end of the day that's a baby I would comfortably throw out with the bath.
As far as charming sites to visit http://www.darkroastedblend.com/ is a wonderful backstroke through bizarre minutia and forgotten flotsam, its been quite a while since there's been an update but the shear volume of truly weird content is a blessed relief from the daily grind.
I've never tried Linux on Mac hardware but I despise Mac's OS!
I am the misfortunate possessor of multiple Apple devices, due to Apple offering corporate discounts to state, and local governments, they are a marketing bomb!
Every network tied application presents an inundating array of innanity, every web page is overwhelmed with ads, sponsored videos, and general unwanted nonsense,
on some sites the adds completely surround the content, on a 10"x7" screen the exact center column of content measures 2"x 3" and all of the rest of the screen is covered with changing, flashing distraction.
Loading the same page on my old desktop running Firefox and AdBlock,Ghostery, and Privacy Badger, I can get a full page of nothing but content...... barring inline ads such as the "tiny ad" at the bottom of this page, Apple does not allow (on IOS anyway) a functional version of any of those privacy measures.
As much as possible I avoid Apples OS's, even Amazons proprietary browser is less intrusive.
Good luck on your test!
I tried out the LXLE link above and I've found it to be excellent! (Very responsive almost as good as antiX using the Rox file manager!)
As it comes from the download it has Seamonkey as a browser, mail client, and newsreader.
Seamonkey is an old fork of Firefox, and because it is behind the curve many standard add ons are not offered for it, (AdBlock etc.) Firefox or Chrome are easily obtainable though if you find it limiting. For a mail client I like Thunderbird but there are dozens to be had!
I don't know if anyone noticed but Apple introduced contact tracing on ver 13.5 and then by ver 14 stated that since so few people opted in it would be enabled by default.
While it seriously hampers 2 way communication a Faraday cage (bag) is the answer here, you can buy it on Amazon (and I'd get one while they are still available!) and test it out (many are placebo's).
It will eliminate incoming and outgoing signals, its also a wonderful place to carry your smart cards and ID to defeat cloning options.
The caveat is you have to be careful to be in a private place to take it out and use it to contact others (this keeps de-facto tracking in play..if you get a signal...they get a location!....But!! you'll look totally chaotic without a reasonable explanation of transit! (if you need verification of presence you won't have it via electronics!)) and collect messages, obviously Apple Pay is a no go. You won't be immediately available in the case of emergency.
The biggest daily inconvenience is having to wear and maintain a watch again.
MeWe seems to be a reasonable Facebook replacement....currently.
Next to the point where the cord goes into the motor should be a small plate, the terminals 1-5 should be in there, Attach the wires as directed by the label.
L1 and L2 will be where you connect you wires from the panel for 115 L2 would be the neutral (white) wire, for 208-240 the other color besides black or green if white is used a red marker should be used to delineate it, at both ends of the cord......if you wish to do thing correctly.
Black is always L1 and Green is always the chassis ground ...unless your working out of the U.S. or on imported equipment, then Google the wiring color conventions for your locale.
Terminals 1-5 change the internal connections of the motor.
For all practical purposes 220-230 are effectively the same voltage, if its 208 then you will draw a fractional difference in amperage and the motor speed will be marginally off.
208 voltage is the product of having a transformer wired to a wye spec which causes voltage to be a multiplier of 1.73 times any single line to ground voltage. (usually found in three phase). or exceedingly rarely it is the hi leg of a open delta wiring of the transformers.
220, 230, and 240 are the result of wiring a transformer in a delta configuration resulting in additive voltage of any single line to ground.
What all this means 220, 230, 240 wiring will all be the same, for 208, a dedicated motor is the proper solution but it will run on 220- etc.
You may need your spectacles and a magnifying glass to see the delineation on the terminals often they are just proud spots on the plastic insulator and hard to make out.
As to the cord ends ensure you have the proper cord end for the voltage you are working on!! you may have to change the receptacle to get it right but simply rewiring with the cord ends for a different voltage is a recipe for disaster. 115 equipment will not survive a test run at 220, and 220 left plugged into a 115 outlet will die over a few minutes, or repeatedly pop the breaker.
The Bibles attitude towards pork has a couple of curious points..
When Christ condemned the demon collective Legion, Legion begged and received permission to inhabit the swine rather than be sentenced to damnation, or to wander the world incorporeal.
That makes pork the only other thing to be definitively bedeviled besides humanity.....
The swine committed suicide rather than live with the arrangement, which begs the question;
Why was Christs regard for swine so low that he would allow demons...completely under his authority, to molest them?
Why would he allow the swineherds to become impoverished through the loss?
And Isaiah 65 mentions that those that partake of pork (among other things!) are "a smoke in Gods nostrils" (an irritant), It gives no indication that any amount of antibiotic or length of cooking time, or sanitary process reduces the irritation God has with those whom partake.
It seems that (while it may be arbitrary) God has a simple and abiding contempt for swine!
(And by extension those associated with them?)