S. Bard wrote:
Is there a simple way I could start with the raw, pre-matured straight planks and make a floor out of that? When I say simple, I mean in terms of the necessary technical knowledge and the necessary specialized tools, not in terms of amount of labour. I am willing to put hard work into this, if necessary. But I do not have the budget to buy large machinery.
So let's talk about wood for a moment... almost all cut lumber is dried, and some of it is even dried in a kiln. Drying gets rid of moisture (lots of weight there!) and also "sets" the board into something of a final shape. The internal structure of wood is complicated, and the drying process affects the internal areas differently. So the sawmill can merrily cut a tree into remarkably flat slabs, but left to their own those slabs will cup, bow, twist and basically have their revenge upon you for cutting them down. Heating the wood in a kiln can also create some other changes in the wood such as making it harder, and even carmelizing some of the sugars to change the color. Generally the wood is cut to rough dimensions, stacked and dried. Some very detail oriented folks will actually clamp the wet wood in place to force it to dry flat.
Thus the first step is drying. How long you dry depends on the species and conditions - but it isn't unreasonably to passively dry lumber for one to two years. Or put it in a kiln for day. A wood moisture meter is how most folks decide when its dry enough (often at 12% ?). Cabinet makers and floor installers worry about local moisture - the house is a different environment than the warehouse or lumber yard and so the wood is allowed a day or two to adjust to local conditions before further working or installation.
So now your wood is dry. But it has a rough surface and only roughly corresponds to some dimension (and has shrunk in the drying process). Boards are now run through assorted machines to "surface" them - essentially putting flat, straight edges on and nice smooth surfaces, all with perfect perpendicular edges. And yes t&g can be done at this time. The t&g step is just one additional step ... flooring also differs from just surfaced boards in that the boards all have perfectly cut ends so they are ready for installation.
Here are the challenges you face... you can dry the wood. That requires some preparation and time, not much work. You can edge (or "join" as woodworkers refer to that step") using a handplane and a good bench, or a decent tablesaw with an appropriate blade can give you a good edge - or even a good Festool style track saw would work. Or you can buy a joiner (and a lot of them are made in Italy!). Then you have to decide how important it is to have a flat floor. Hand planes can certainly do the job given enough time, otherwise a planer is needed. There are many portable and quite inexpensive powered planers (or in French, literally, "de-thicknesser"). Adding t&G is best done with something we call a shaper, but less expensive routers are capable as well.
I'd say that at a minimum you'd need a good (not great) tablesaw or a very good track saw. Those are darn handy general tools and good to have around anyway. A portable planer would save a lot of time. Adding t&g would be nice, but adds a LOT of time and additional equipment that you are less likely to use unless you decide to become a furniture maker!
Then its a question of expectations for the fit and finish! IF you have a solid sub-floor (generally plywood or such) then air movement isn't an issue - cracks & gaps in the floor are largely cosmetic and its up to you. A trend in the US is to have rough flooring, so you don't even need to have mirror-flat surfaces. Face screws need to be done very carefully to look good (IMO) - they need to be in exact rows as wandering screw heads just look sloppy not interesting. You can also countersink the screws and follow with a wood plug to completely hide the screw.
The appearance and fasteners give you a lot of possibilities. I'm concerned about expansion of the wood. With changes in humidity, boards expand and contract in their width, not length. Many a wood worker has discovered the power of expansion - literally ripping tables apart, buckling floors, breaking screws, etc. The edges of wood flooring are designed to deal with a touch of expansion - a benefit of t&g is that it create some give. Placing plain edge boards may create more expansion risk - although I'd like to hear from others on this. The size of the rooms, thickness of boards, also matters - and as mentioned you need to leave a gap between the wall and the flooring. I'm curious if creating a slight angle/bevel on the boards would mitigate the problems of expansion.
Finally - screws. I think its import to pre-drill the flooring. You create a larger hole than the screw, and then the screw head (not the shaft) is what holds the wood down. The larger hole allows the board to expand and contract and not break the screw!
Oh I hope all that makes sense... community please correct and clarify!
I agree that there is probably a pattern in play. Having a pattern, then allowing the computer to decide which puzzle piece a log should best be cut into makes a lot more sense than scanning a bunch of logs and then trying to figure out how to piece them together. But its not a printed laminate layer.
As for the jig - yes, I'd forgotten that if you stack the two and have them overlap the same as the router bit diameter (? its been a long day...) then it works. Still, that's a LOT of routing and since you'd be working on probably 3/4" slabs you'd need a 1.75" long bit. Maybe my routing skills are poor, but that seems the opposite of fun & easy (and quiet. and clean).
Mike Haasl wrote: If I had to do it, first I'd say it can't be done to get out of the job.
Is that why I have such trouble finding contractors? So true - this is just a pile of headaches.
As for jigsawing and then routing ... that works ok with no radius cuts. Things get weird with a radius ... its one thing to cut a piece of a curve, but too much and suddenly they don't fit together... imagine cutting a half circle from a piece of plywood Suddenly the inner piece doesn't fit the outer piece... imagine that problem along a length of a slab!
There are ways to simultaneously rout inner and outer edges - but I've only seen them used on thin and fairly flexible material (laminate). Maybe a really thin kerf laser cutter - or water jet? - would do the trick.
Compostable bags for sous-vide? Wow! That changes things...
Have you used these? Got any brands/names to share?
I searched and found references to the idea, but no actual products. There are plastic alternatives for vacuum sealing, but the ones I found all indicated they weren't suitable for sous-vide cooking. : (
And no, you can't do it. Well maybe you can prove me wrong ...
T&G is structrually very useful, binding the edges together and hiding fasteners. If you don't use T&G you either need to face nail/screw the boards down, or use some fancy hidden fasteners for decks... and many of the deck systems are designed to leave gaps in the boards so they wouldn't work. So you're going to have exposed fasteners... which might be ok until some years along when the floor needs to be sanded down and those metal heads wreak havoc on the sanders, and possibly have the head sanded down enough that it doesn't hold anymore. The floor you've pointed to is T&G.
Then ... how to fit those together? Woodworking has spent a LONG time figuring out how to make perfect joints - perfectly flat and planar surfaces that fit together without gaps. These tools all create long, flat surfaces. And then any piece from the pile should match up with any other piece from the pile. But this... wow. First, each piece matches one and only one other piece. That means each piece is super custom. It also means that a rotary bit (e.g. a very precisely controlled router) is creating those edges - which means a machine. A really expensive machine. I shudder at the work and time it would take to even attempt this with a woodworking router.
Finally, the sawmill planks you see at the mill are probably the outer cuts from a log, an inevitable byproduct of taking what is essential a cone and cutting it into a rectangle. The sawmill makes these cuts because the good wood is inside the log... and these outer bits are kinda crappy - they are thin, frequently have non-structural bark attached, and because they take the outmost rings of the log will tend to have the worst warping of any cuts of wood. The Bolefloor product is using full slabs of smaller trees, not outer cuts. Now, if I'm wrong about your mill having out cuts and instead has the simple slabs (from when the tree is sliced up ... sort of like a loaf of bread), well those are tremendously better pieces of wood to work with ... but they still haven't been dried, have very rough surfaces, etc.
I hate to throw water on a good idea - this is beautiful, efficient, etc. But I can't see a home-made version of it working as a floor. As a table top? as a bench? as an outdoor deck? as a coarse barn floor? Sure, those are all applications where this could be done but I think it would fall far, far short of acceptable as interior flooring.
There was an initial stage put in place in 2015, and on May 15, 2020 the next and more restrictive stage kicks in.
Expect some deals at your local wood stove dealer! I was talking with a dealer about installing a Danish design stove (for a rental property, where for logistical, technical and aesthetic reasons a RMH isn't appropriate) - and some of them are about to expire, regulatory wise. One particular stove exceeds the new standard but because the manufacturer has discontinued that stove in the US it isn't "approved" under the new rules and MUST be sold before the new rules take place or it becomes a paper weight.
There could be multiple threads on the problems/assumptions that go into these regs and why they look good but actually are far less effective than a proper RMH. And yes, although there may be some deals coming you should absolutely consider an RMH first.
Wood stoves can be great - but the new regs take aim at the ickle particles (pm 2.5) that are particularly insidious to our health. Hard to argue against reducing those, although I'm sure there are many arguments to be made that these rules are effective or ineffective in achieving these goals. I'm not going there.
First, assuming you've got a contact-less tester that you hold near the wire and it gives you a reading. In this case, the grounding system is not involved at all - at this point the fence just has potential to shock, to actually shock we need a good ground system. So we're just testing the potential here.
So - it seems like the first section is happy - but as soon as you connect another section, the reading drops in the first section as well as the second section. So there's SOMETHING happening in the second section OR at the interface between the two. So things to consider are:
1) what sort of connection are you using at the gate?
2) what fencing material are you using? Wire, strand, poly?
3) is there a weak spot/break in the wire of the second section? If so, you can probably hear the arcing as a pop.
Its frustrating - electric fence can be magical, and sometimes its problems seem magical as well! Absent grounding problems, you're almost certainly dealing with continuity or high resistance.
Consider attaching a pic of the gate attachments...
But two things pop for me:
1) that "arch" is awfully flat to be structural. Self-supporting? probably, but imagine a weight applied in the middle of the arch... the brick will just want to squirt out and the whole thing goes boom. So I'd argue that its not supporting second-story weight.
2) Hey, you've got some big pieces of wood ABOVE the arch. Can't tell from the pics, but those could be load-carrying beams. I'd investigate those since they are exposed.
Either way, its looking like the arch is probably self-supporting. Knocking out the wood will probably (!!) result in just a worst case scenario of the arch collapsing, but not the house. But obviously, be careful and don't take the word of armchair builders!
Logs can make a great "bathtub" to fill with soil. This is also a great opportunity to add the "hugel" factor and bury a bunch of the smaller trunks & limbs in the middle of the bed to act as a sponge and nutrient reactor.
I've previously dug out the center of the bed and piled woody debris in there, then covered again with the same soil. Tightly! You don't want air pockets. Its also important to leave a good margin (1 foot or so) between the debris and your perimeter logs - the hugelzed debris will act like a sponge, but in dry weather those perimeter logs will evaporate moisture so you want to keep the water-logs from the perimeter logs.
There are considerations for adding nitrogen, and the bigger the logs you can bury the better.
Finally, consider Lincoln-Log style ... make the bed more than one log high. You get a deeper bed which may or may not be helpful to work on, it has more volume to surface area, and it might be more favorable for some plants. Depends on log size of course!
Katy Fell wrote: I also have no storage supplies, tools, fertilizers, anything really.
As Scott suggests, dive in - but carefully!
Getting started might take as little as a spade and a rake to prepare your beds. Then you might add tools as needed.
No need to worry about storage yet - plenty of time to address that once the growies are in the ground.
Other than "Yes" its really hard to advise - soil and climate conditions vary widely, and the specifics of whatever spot you've got can differ significantly from area averages as well. Some basic things to determine are soil pH and the presence of persistent herbicides. Lab testing of soil pH is pretty straight forward and can probably be done even now - although some people learn to just taste the soil! Persistent herbicides can be a real bummer - a way to test that is just with seedlings. Put some soil into seed trays and get them going... see what the seedlings look like before you plant the whole packet!
Generally speaking, adding organic material to the soil won't hurt. So find leaves, twigs, etc and start working them in.
bruce Fine wrote: I did not realize how top heavy a full size backhoe is and driving mine on the property is very scary.
I've never had problems when operating the backhoe, but yes, when moving the unit the weight on the back is significant and has high leverage. A tenant found just how high that center of gravity was and rolled the tractor while moving it. No real harm done, fortunately. But don't turn uphill when traversing a slope! Better to reverse into a turn...
On the other hand, that backhoe is darned useful when the tractor gets stuck! I do need to replace the front tires, but when its slick and steep, the backhoe can be deployed and pull the tractor out! The extra weight is also helpful for stabilising the tractor when using the loader at capacity.
Andre Burns wrote:I’ve researched the TLB line. They are definitely more robust than the standard ag tractor line. I really, really like that, but their commercial grade build comes at a commercial grade cost that I just can’t afford. My local rental place has a B21 that I’ve considered renting.
For those trying to keep up with the lingo, yes the TLB line is very different from most of the mid-size tractors. They weigh significantly more - and the big brother of the line (currently the M62) can lift nearly two tons in the front bucket - while most other tractors in the 70hp range lift maybe 3000 lb. This requires both weight as ballast and beefy front axles. This may be why my experience with the backhoe is different from others in this thread - mine is simply "better" as its less of a compromise. This does mean that they are expensive - forget the $10k bump to get a backhoe, I think the new 48hp TLB is about a $20k premium over similar hp mid-size tractors.
This premium compresses significantly in the used market. But its still a difference that requires serious thinking about what one needs a tractor for.
I'm a semi-fan of sous-vide cooking. I just can't get over the plastic - and sure, the low temps may not release much plastic ickiness, but if you add oil (as is recommended for a lot of fish preparations) the oil, I understand, does a great job of sucking stuff from the plastic. My larger problem is just the amount of plastic waste that is generated, and this has kept me from regular use.
I tried some silicon bags about two years ago - they were too thick to easily remove all the air from the bag, and they had complicated closures of plastic clips and sliders that either broke or got separated from the bags. But I recently saw some newer silicone bags ("Stasher" brand) that have a built-in zip-like seal and seemed thinner and lighter, so I jumped in with my beef shanks. I still couldn't get all the air removed, but the results were acceptable.
Anyone else have silicon bag advice or other ways of reducing plastic waste with this method?
The only other thoughts I've had on this - transport! One of the reasons I don't rent excavators is because I can't transport them - my trailer isn't beefy enough. I can pay the rental yard extra for delivery, but for a day or two rental that extra $150 is pretty painful.
Transport is also essential to consider for maintenance of any equipment - if you can't haul it to a mechanic then your service options become more limited and more expensive.
Guess I'm a contrarian...I find the backhoe tremendously useful. I don't get to use it as much as I'd like, but it sure is handy to have when I need it. I'm generally chasing fires (figuratively) and don't get to do big, planned projects so if I had to rent, then it probably wouldn't get done at all.
I have a Kubota B21 ... and would really like the big brother M59 or M62 just so I lift more with the bucket. These are in the Kubota TLB line meant for construction - that's a big deal b/c it makes a very different machine from the ag tractors. The PTO output is lower, but the four-post canopy provides fall protection (handy in the woods!), the tire stems are protected, the bottom is up-armored to prevent snags/stumps/ etc from ripping open your oil filter. Since most of what I do with it is build, and rarely do the things that most ag tractors are meant for - plowing, tilling, etc.
HST is great.
I'd add that the skidsteer-style quick attach bucket and implements would be really nice. There are a bunch of specific implements for it - including dedicated forks that I'd rather have than the clamp on (largely the clamp on ones wander a bit and they move the lift point out that much further, effectively reducing the lift capacity). The one fitting I'd really like - probably unreasonably - is front attached hydraulic post driver.
The first question is - Does your soil need it? This is the sort of thing that you need to have a good soil test for - don't do it "because." While I think it it is true that the soil chemistry doesn't need to be as perfect as suggested - especially in the presence of good microbial activity - severely depleted soil might need a kick of something like this. I've added some in test strips to my pastures to see how much of a difference it makes.
If you do need it, don't buy it at Amazon! My super-informed and reputable local supplier has 44 lbs for $19.
Hey folks - if anyone is in need/want/desire of an elusive Stainless Steel barrel I've got a lead on some in the Portland, OR area. Won't last long! $300 for a soild head, $400 for a snap-ring style head. 55 gallon.
I'm NOT selling these, but I'd be happy to get one and hold it for you, etc. And I'd tell you where they are but I'm wondering if I should grab one or two and I don't want you (yes YOU!) to buy them all before I decide!!
Hmm... true, that might be a bit accelerated. Maybe instead of building the wheel they could be put in it to experience it, and in Wheaton Labs style, come up with experimental wheel designs. Yes, they would get to reinvent the wheel!
Good thoughts on options, additional uses and power sources.
My initial reaction was to building the berm-shed, and there is electricity there in the shop so the power source is a no-brainer. Moving away from the grid certainly presents a challenge and there could be multiple power options. After all we're talking about one of the simplest and most common application of power. I'd think Wheaton Labs would prefer to use existing electric infrastructure (and save the tractor for loading duties), but I happen to have three possible PTO sources and a bunch of hearing protection so a diesel-PTO might actually be a good solution for me. Have to think on that...
Continuing the hay bale lifter ... all that I've seen are alectric, but it makes sense that there would be PTO driven ones as well. The problem I see is that these always seem to be just a conveyor system that is dependent on being supported by barn structures. Once outside the conveyor would need some sort of frame to lift it up. Not an insurmountable problem, but not a simple task either.
I just ran some numbers and it will take 2000 watts (2 Kw) to raise one metric ton two meters.
The little one I could rent runs on 110v, so it probably maxes at 1800w (~13 amps). Actual consumption must depend on loading and angle (aka "work"), but 1800w is within the range of good inverters. How long could it run? I don't feel like searching for Solar Leviathan specs, maybe someone with the knows could chime in?
Alternately, my quick search for media links revealed that some of these units can have direct drive gas motors. Ok, maybe not the ideal but a small gas motor + conveyor is still more efficient than a lumbering tractor (in certain conditions).
Chris Kott wrote:
One parting thought just struck me (ouch): I know that one of the benefits of accessories with their own on-board electrical motors involves the doing away with much of the mechanisms that raise or lower the RPMs of the PTO, but I wonder if anyone is making something like an electric tractor with an electric PTO to work with all the conventional machinery. I mean, if you had, as was just mentioned, an old hay conveyor, all you need is the power.
Hat tip to Burra for the hay conveyor idea. I see those all the time in the $200-400 range - just need some sort of belt or bucket attachment.
In the 1970s General Electric made the Elec-Trak (Elec-Trac? can never remember if it was Chris or Kris in marketing that day...) - an electric lawnmower with a beefy set of deep cycle batteries. There was a whole line up of DC powered tools that you could plug straight in... including a chain saw! Just unplug the mower deck (yep, electric! a motor for each blade) and plug in whatever tool you had. Sadly I don't think anyone at GE considered the need for a DC powered blender/margarita maker.
If you're moving material a fair ways, though, it seems like it might get cost prohibitive pretty quickly? And, if you wish to spread the material, a vehicle can place a bunch of loads near each other, without any reconstruction of the conveyer setup to change the aim...
Oh yeah, its easy to dig and grab dirt. Moving it is awful. Its slow, and largely because for every loader bucket you have at least 2x that weight of tractor that also needs to move.
These are, like any tool, appropriate for certain jobs. My yard rents the conveyors for $75 day/ $300 week. In purely economic terms, that's a lot of diesel. But if I have a pile HERE and I want it THERE - especially if THERE is a place the loader doesn't easily get to - then it might make a lot of sense. But having four of them connected to lift the pond scrapings out of the creek basin? I'm not sure about that.
Watching the berm shed video I saw big piles of dirt around the site, just waiting to be scooped. As the roof height exceeds the lift height of Paul's tractor, a dirt ramp was built. Instead of that time (and diesel) building and removing ramps something like this might have been helpful.
....I'm thinking the conveyor belt needs to be able to swing in a 180 degree arc (or atleast a 90) so maybe put a wheel on the delivery end of the conveyor and side handles on both left and right sides to pull/push the delivery end across the roof top.
...this means the end where the dirt is loaded needs to be pin hinged.
....it would be nice to be able to easily move the conveyor forward and backward while running (that or a extendable trough on the delivery end which can move forward and backwards by hand.
Yep. I'm no expert on these things, but some are mounted on a trailer, launching AWAY from the hitch. So using an attached vehicle or a manual dolly you could move it around in 2 axes. Of course, that requires a nicely prepared site.
So I've just watched a few videos of the berm shed, and listened to a podcast (or three) on the topic and one of the topics was getting the dirt onto the berm shed. Like, its hard (location at Wheaton Labs - who put a pole building next to the berm shed!? didn't make it easy) because you need to lift lift lift that dirt up high and then you need to spread it ... Sounds like it was a lot of diesel and manual labor.
Light Bulb moment! I saw one of these at my local rental yard and I was thinking about using it to help with a pond excavation. Behold:
These are electric (run off a voltswagen? solar leviathan?) and some are made for outdoor construction sites. My local rental yard has smaller ones that are meant to remove dirt from basements, and will merrily run on household electricity or off a small generator. And you can connect them to get all Rube Goldberg (Boot Challenge! Design a machine using converyor belts that ends by putting a piece of pie on Paul's table!). In any case, it should be relatively simple to place it to move dirt atop a berm or Wofati, and then use the excavator or loader to dump material into a feed hopper and up it goes!
I've had a conveyor truck deliver gravel several times. Instead of just dumping gravel, a highly adjustable conveyor launches the gravel. By adjusting the angle and speed of the conveyor they can easily launch gravel OVER a single story house. I'm not sure if any of these smaller ones are so capable, but wow, it sure would make it easy to spread the dirt if you could just adjust the speed and launch the dirt!
So ... did the existence of these things just elude everyone? Were they too expensive, too fiddly? Is there something else I'm not getting about these?
This is NOT a bad idea at all. But its a bigger change than most people can comprehend! It seems there are so many stories of people who bought land thinking they would get away... but then then got swallowed by it. Its not just that it takes effort, but there are so many unknowns when you try to do something different.
My farm motto is "Fail Small" - so I do things incrementally, learn, repeat. This way any failure should be small enough to not derail the whole plan. I have a few head of cattle, tried four hogs, started with the smallest tractor, etc. Jumping in to commercial farming AND off-grid is putting a lot of eggs in one basket - and that's a great way to get stressed and not enjoy life!
I'm surprised it hasn't popped up yet - Paul's idea of "gardening" instead of "farming." In a nutshell, farming is very non-permaculture because of the demands of markets, customers, etc and so its really hard to not end up tilling, planting in rows and generally engaging in labor intense growing and processing. And so you spend a lot of time growing cash-crops and driving to markets. The permie idea of building systems takes time (years...) and can produce an abundance of food but not on a commercial schedule. I think there is a lot to be said for the homestead first model - it allows you to blend the requirements of student debt service with living the life, and perhaps preparing for the time when commercial growing is desirable.
So get property? sure. Don't stretch and go off-grid at the start because that's a bigger change. You can also disconnect later, but for now the grid is remarkably cheap!
A great way to ease in and, um, not bet the farm, is to rent/borrow land. Washington and Oregon have Farm-Link programs (http://wafarmlink.org and https://oregonfarmlink.org ) - basically a dating service for connecting landowners and landseekers. The terms vary widely- rent, partner, lease to own, purchase. As a land-owner I've essentially built my business model around Farm-link and folks like you. I regularly talk with couples seeking a change - and there are many who have some experience, but can't afford land in the area and/or aren't ready to commit to owning land. Since I'm on the other side of the equation and have to evaluate the probability of success I have more concerns than just dreams! If you're interested in that, please allow me to coach you a bit on writing your profile and how to reach out to landowners.
Mike - Hard to know why the heater isn't working without knowing the voltages.
BUT ... this detail I found suggests you could have a total of 6 of those panels.
This 40 amp MPPT Solar Panel Charger works with 600W Solar Panel on 12V Battery System and 1200W on 24V Battery. Max Solar Panel 1560W, multiple load mode allow you set the load on/off in different situation.
"Appropriate" is a really stodgy word. Makes me think of Finishing School, good manners and conformance. Its totally unfair to an otherwise useful word... I think its the problem of being in a title.
"Jamboree" is a fun word - but I don't associate it with learning, working hard. As a Boy Scout (Eagle!) I still think of Jamborees as fun events that try to build bridges between otherwise isolated communities.
"Mad Scientist" is super fun - but its almost the opposite of "Appropriate" here. Mad Scientist invokes a "I dunno. Let's see what happens" and do something without thinking about it. Randomness, etc. A serious need for safety glasses, hearing protection and maybe body armor. Basically its really hard to get away from the image of Doc Brown in Back to the Future. But definitely "out of the box" and "unconventional thinking" and "not bothered by natterers of 'you can't do that'". So I'd be hesitant to sign up for a Mad Scientist Jamboree - but I'd think it clever if the instructors were "Instructors/Mad Scientists"
Since I was in a business school for a while I think its essential to come up with a new word so the meaning of the word can be defined! PermaTech! Crap, that's taken. So ... PermaXyience! (May cause side effects...)
*Framing note: I'm stodgy. I don't want to be, yet I am. I kinda wish I had a lawn. Paulisms as "moichendize" and "om nom nom" don't work for me. Yet I'm here anyway... the point is I may not be the target audience and I offer up my opinion to help frame the event. I hope I'm not akin to a Fouch effect though...
Bill Crim wrote:There are 500 ways to get rid of spacing, and all of them will work, but only 5 of them are the “Right” way from an SEO/HTML perspective.
I always feel like a fraud with WordPress because they try to make it easy for graphic designers, but I suck at that. My Wordpress GUI editor knowledge is only +2 weeks more than Nichole’s and I suspect that her practical knowledge already eclipses mine. But... bullshit CSS spacing and margin shenanigans... I got you covered...
Thanks for volunteering Bill!
But seriously, Drupal 8 has me very angry and I need to learn WP - even though it feels like I'm trading in a convection oven with induction stovetop for an easybake! But maybe with the easybake I can actually make something...
I need to sit out this round, but I hereby volunteer to be roped into a future WP project.
Mike Haasl wrote:
Possible names for sections:
Track 4: Earth and Fire
Track 5: Wood and Cob
Track 6: Shock and Awe, or Zappity Zap, or Current Events (get it?), or Electricity
If a section is 90% one thing and we can move a topic to another track to make it more pure, that's a possibility. Depending on instructor schedules and a bunch of other moving parts...
Yeah, those are better than mine.
I'm a stick in the mud on some of this - so you might choose the opposite of my preference just to ensure a fun-loving crowd. I'd use either alternative over Zappity Zap (sorry Paul...) because that phrasing makes me think of getting zapped. : (
Catherine is absolutely right that the canned theme in WordPress is being difficult. They lure you in with sweet, sweet promises of features and ease of use and then, instead of riding your web based steed through the magnificent scenery as the the wind blows your hair you discover that you have been saddled, hobbled and tied to a post and you cannot possibly change that one little thing.
I'll suggest that, at this point, perfection is not required and the page is good-enough. If Paul starts offering a variant of the PDC for Engineers, a PDC for Graphic Designers and Marketing Experts say, then the page would need a whole boatload of work. Its a little rough here and there, but I don't think people who are willing to put their hands in cob, scrape bark, etc are going to be upset.
The page works fine (excepting that stupid font problem) on my mobile. Well, the menu appears in its retracted form and it looks weird - but again its good enough.
Eliot Mason wrote: I'd kinda like to burn down html and browsers and java libraries and ...
Java is rather magnificent. One could even argue that some of the older stuff is even better than some of the newer stuff.
You should be able to edit a file on the site : base.css (located at wp-content/plugins/thrive-visual-editor/landing-page/templates/css/base.css). See if you can find and edit that file (and if so, you the power to pretty much change all of the formatting! With Great Power comes Great Responsibility!). I'm not sure how long it will take WordPress to absorb the changes in the file. You might need to wait up to 15 minutes depending on cache refresh settings. There's some way to flush the caches in WP but I don't recall.