Davin Hoyt wrote:Perhaps the base materials can be more elevated (higher relative to exterior ground level) and breath-able (slightly more porous)? I'm brainstorming about stone and sand at the moment. Your load bearing members are interior, and the exterior walls are separate (resting on a base that doesn't need a footer/extensive structure).
Initially, even having a floor was pushing the envelope a bit. Stone floor is a good call, and would help in several ways.
Davin Hoyt wrote:Please note: When I was at the 2017 Wheaton ATC, Josiah Wallingford's architect business partner got on a conference call with the entire class. I took the opportunity to ask him about design recommendations for this solarium project (which was already expressed by Paul at that time). What I think I gathered was: to have a heat collecting material inside the room to hold heat from day to day. The idea of this is similar to what Zach has learned from Sepp, where a large rock is just below the surface of a pond. So, I assume, some solid materials (need) to be placed within this architecture expansion. I think you started the design with a stone floor and now have a cedar wood floor.
That seems doable. It might also be accomplished by the RMH-to-be, or the stone floor, or both.
Davin Hoyt wrote:Wifi antenna: I wonder if it could have it's own pole? or tree? and run the wire below the parking surface?
This has shifted from being immutable to being mutable. So, yes.
Davin Hoyt wrote:I'd like to see a section of the solarium roof (now that you speak of limiting glue, plastic, and flashing). Perhaps a breathable floor system works well with a breathable roof system.
I have very little experience with truly breathable assemblies. I had hoped to avoid plastic or asphalt in the roof. Perhaps I am (again) aiming too high.
Davin Hoyt wrote:Food for thought: Can we have stone columns :) ? Bases maybe?
I look forward to the day when I get to design a project with structural stonework. I have concerns about specifying it in this project. Perhaps I'm being over-cautious.
Files attached; both the current file and a clean base.
Thanks for joining this morning Ashley! I hope you feel more comfortable with the SkIP language, and can see that BB20 is not as far away as it first seemed. I really look forward to seeing you next week.
Opalyn, I'm so so sorry I didn't see you in the zoom waiting room. I was presenting my screen, and I'm still getting the hang of how zoom (doesn't) notify the meeting host of a person in the waiting room. I hope you can join next week.
These are the facets of SkIP that appeal to me, that I can currently see. I'm sure there's more angles I haven't yet considered. This list could potentially equate to a table of contents for multiple further writings.
- All of the bricks, actionable.
- All of the podcasts, distilled.
- Do your best Sepp Holzer impersonation. Now do your best Erica Wisner impersonation.
- Sharing is Expressly Invited. Encouraged. ...Required, even!
- It helps me pursue pursuits which have interested me for years.
- Help to discard my acculturated perfectionism. Permission to make a shitty thing, on the road to making a better thing.
- A structure for Skill building.
- A path for Skill certification.
- A map for Re-Skilling.
- One more people selection system.
- Proof! For the doubters.
- What I wish Scouts was, and I'm an Eagle Scout.
- A Waterproof Trenchcoat without Polyester or PFA's.
- A letter to a younger version of myself. College is a sham. Why not SkIP it?
- A letter to an older version of myself. You get to pick your nose, and your friends.
- Baby steps from Ferd-itude to Gert-itude - It could be the first baby steps for people wishing to return to the soil.
- It could be an enormous on-ramp into permaculture.
- It could help re-legitimize trade skills as a viable career path.
- It could be a permaculture workshop roadmap.
- It could be a permaculture community roadmap.
- It could be the stepping stone for Re-Husp.
- Enough PEP happening in the same place creates: A Town with No Cars that can Feed Itself. - And let's be honest; the carrot is pretty nice, too.
Thanks for sharing your experiences here on Permies. As a fellow rookie-homesteader, I think it's important for us to post our own experiences, as well.
I can relate to much of what you describe.
One thing that is working for me is to find a place where I can go do some of the homesteading stuff. You said y'all already went wwoof'ing; which steals my first piece of advice. Maybe there's more places y'all can go so you can start working on it? The place I've gone is Wheaton Labs (present tense, because I've twice returned, and plan to go again).
Another thing that is working for me is the SkIP program. For me, working on the badge bits has given me a way to start building experiences. Even while living at a rental house. And for me, experiences displace doubt.
On re-reading this, I realize this is just two flavors of the same advice (find a way to do it). I hope you're able to find something that works for you.
r ranson wrote:I'm not sure about the pricing yet. I was thinking $12 CAD, but when I search on Etsy most of the calendars are over $20 CAD. I suppose I could put it at $19 and then have a sale to bring it down to $12 for the first month?
Question: How to make a less-gicky Waterproofing Detail?
The current design uses way less plastic, glue, galvanized metal, cement, and paint than traditional construction. That's nice.
A place I'm currently struggling to remove plastic, glue, and galvanized metal are at the waterproofing details. These exist at the window heads/sills, door heads/sills, and the solarium shed roof::garage wall connection.
Take this hyper-oversimplified section detail of a door sill:
See the red line? My experience with typical construction is that red line would be galvanized metal flashing, with glue-backed-plastic (e.g. peel-n-stick) waterproofing lapped around and behind it.
Back to the question:
Do y'all know a way to make a waterproofing detail that's less gicky than that? I've looked at the hand-sculpted house book, and the details depicted there appear to be more tolerant of water infiltration. Perhaps there's something that I'm missing? Perhaps having way less plastic is good enough?
My containers overall mostly had coffee grounds, vegetable scraps, discarded science experiments (i.e. spoiled leftovers), and the occasional donated spoiled produce from friends to whom I've described SKIP.
At first, my mulch was just dirt. Later, I had twigs and leaves, too. (so fancy!)
This thread is my attempt to document my Ruth Stout Composting BB that will result in a cleaner, single post in the BB thread.
The reason: I generate small amounts of kitchen scraps at a time. It's measured in cups, not gallons. Doing this BB as the only adult living at the house I'm renting was a matter of months, not days. In future, I'll create and post to such a personal-BB-thread ongoing, as opposed to all at once. I hope to develop a repeatable process to document some of the more involved BB's that exist in SkIP.
The BB requirements: 2 Spots, 5 Gallons of Scraps each.
5 gallons = 78.86 cups. I use 6 cup containers for scraps. That means I need 13.14 containers of scraps placed at each spot. I'll round up to 15, just to make it a slam dunk. (15x6-cup containers = 5.70 gallons).
Here we go!
(BTW, this is not in any way a negative comment at anyone who's done their BB all in the BB thread. Y'all are awesome. This is partly for my own sanity, and because there's some higher-level BB's that involve documenting a year (or more) of work, and paths to adequately document things at that scale will be needed).