If you burn wood for heat, they are an excellent wood lot tree. They sucker quickly and prolifically, as you observe. The have a high heat content. My advice would be to make bio char out of them, if you are not using them to heat. Be careful with livestock around them. The leaves have a toxin in them that is bad juju for animals.
My understanding is they will take a lot of abuse. Cut them all the way back and they will re-gen, as long as the roots are well established. I think they are hard to kill, as they are a pioneer species.
Have you found Jody on Welding Tips and Tricks yet? He is a lifelong welder. He was in aerospace as an Inspector for one of the major airlines before he retired and started his own job shop. I like his videos because he focuses on helping guys understand and pass the different tests they will encounter to advance their skills. He is a good instructor. His approach is prepare people for real world scenarios; and make them better welders. You might spend some time with his videos. It will give you not only an idea of the different challenges you will face; but exposure to some of the industries and options out there to explore.
Another resource that you may find helpful is this young man. He works as a fabricator, so has a variety of topics. He sounds like he was on the job trained and shares what he has learned in a job shop environment. He has a lot of skill for someone so young.
If you are thinking of being an independent, then definitely become an expert at print reading. Often overlooked in cert programs because everyone wants to get a stinger in their hand. But as as contractor you will eat your mistakes, not your employer. Prints are often not clear or even incomplete. Learn to recognize quickly exactly what the client wants, and what might be missing; so you can ask questions and get clarity before you start. Unhappy clients, even when it is their fault, don't generate a lot of repeat business or good referrals.
Not to be a safety Sally, but pay attention during shop orientation and safety briefs. Learn how to turn a valve off and on properly. A gulp of Argon can end your life. An unchained cylinder is a live grenade without the pin. Welding flash from your co-workers has a cumulative and long term effect on visual acuity. So do fumes on your lungs. (wait until your first bout of zinc flu.) A lot of young people, as I was, are guilty of taking their safety and that of their peers for granted. A lot of seemingly innocuous things can make people dead. It is can be very safe. But people can be very careless. Don't be that guy. Learn to recognize 'that guy' working around you. /soap box.
Lot's of advise possible, but what are you wanting to do with welding? Are you doing projects to sell, side jobs to pick up extra cash, a short term profession?
If you are young, single, and mobile, West Texas pipeline. Walk on as a welder's helper. Work your way into a welding position. $30/hr straight time, with many hours of overtime. It is possible to make six figures a year after a year or two working into a position. Live cheap. Bank 75% of your paycheck. Keep your self clean (lot's of bad habits in pipeline camps.) In very short order you will have cash, not just a down payment, for any piece of land you want. Then you can decide if welding is something you want to do long term; or start in a new direction. Welding skills are good to have, regardless of your path/s in in life.
Don't start on drugs. Easy on the partying. Save as much as possible on a daily basis. Live happily ever after. Many many of your peers are starting careers 100k in debt with questionable skills or credentials. In the same 4-6 years, you can have your land or dreams, be debt free; and ready to start living your dreams before you reach 30.
The thread's original question was for advice on guns, albeit 9 years old. I will add mine.
Like any other tool, there is no 'one size fits all' solution. Like any tool, one must understand the strengths and weaknesses of the tool; and define the goal to make the best tool selection. If one is only interested in one tool, then find the best compromise between the most common chores one's own situation demands.
The most used tool in a homestead kit, would likely be a .22lr gun. It is very versatile, easy to operate (very low recoil), cost effective; and ammunition is ubiquitous. It is good for 'pest control', small game, and teaching marksmanship, all at a very low cost. It is not suitable for anything other than pests and small game, as the round is too light and too fast to deposit energy to a target. There are special cartridges that carry 'shot' for a 22lr that also make the caliber very attractive. I believe no homestead should be without a .22lr. At around $100 new and less used, it is a good first purchase for seeking advice on guns.
The next most useful tool in my opinion would be a shotgun. 20 gauge for smaller framed folks; or someone recoil sensitive. 12 gauge for anyone wanting the extra power and does not mind a bit of kick. A shotgun can handle small game and pests with 7 or 8 shot (many small pellets), predators like raccoons and coyotes with 4 through 6 shot. Larger predators with buckshot or slugs. In short, a highly versatile gun that is adaptable and customizable to the different needs of a homestead. A shotgun can be found for under $200 new if you look around. A used gun with a reliable mechanism can sometimes be found for half of that. It would be the next tool I would recommend to someone looking for the advice above.
A midsize caliber like a .243 is also a good versatile tool for the homestead, but one that would be needed less. A .243 will dispatch medium to large size game. It can put a suffering animal out of its pain. It will hunt/forage for game up to deer size. It has low recoil for its energy level. It has a flat trajectory to increase accuracy at range. Ammo is not too expensive compared to other mid range calibers. Most people are comfortable with the recoil. A single shot medium caliber rifle can be had new for under $200. The cost/benefit is a little harder to justify on a homestead budget, so I would give a 3rd place ranking.
When looking at calibers such as .308, .270, 30-06 or even higher, (my opinion only!) is they have little utility to a homestead. They are 'big game' calibers. The recoil is high. The cost per round goes up. It is too much energy for anything below an elk, bear, or ...? These calibers are more specialty tools. Nice to have to round out one's tool kit; but more specialized in nature with limited utility on a homestead beyond hunting or in an area where large predators are not an issue.
My opinions for what it is worth for someone with limited experience with firearms.
Respectfully, why a bottom plow? Do you have a specific reason to turn the soil over and invert the top soil profile?
The subsoiler is probably a good idea to fight compaction, let the soil breath and get water below the surface. If the surface needs to be broken up to get the seeds into the soil, the disk harrow will do that. I would substitute a second pass with the disk for a pass turning over the soil with a bottom plow. Most seed is planted too deep. Even bean sized seed should be less than 2 inches depending on the variety (most are fine at 1 inch.) A disk will get you that deep. A bottom plow gets much deeper than that. Depending on the soil, between 6 to 10 inches. That creates a problem with your microbes and soil biology. It exposes them to too much sunlight and oxygen. It does tend to kill all the vegetation to eliminate competition; but at what cost: decreased fertility, increased erosion, stimulating dormant seeds, extra tractor work...?
It sounds like this mix will be an animal forage project. I would double disk and roll or drag for good seed to soil contact. Can you get access to a cultipacker? A chain harrow might work if you added logs tires or bricks on top for increased weight. If you are broadcasting seed, it can be done as long as the seed is mixed well and not allowed to settle in the hopper (don't let is sit.) Throw it all in a large barrel and roll it around until it is mixed. Load and go. It won't be perfect, but it will save you from having to do separate passes for different sizes.
I would suggest taking a small (perhaps an acre depending on the size of your equipment) area and trying just the disk harrow and broadcaster. Walk the area and look close at your distribution. Then roll or drag and see if it covers and packs the seed to your satisfaction. If it does not give you the results, go to work with the bottom plow. Food for thought.
I "lucked" into a deal from a neighbor that was cleaning out a storage shed. I had no idea how useful the thing would be. Many people sell something like it. DR happens to have a good video. I would look for one of these on craigslist.
It uses a heavy diameter string (.1" if I recall.) It makes a large cutting radius and is easy to control around obstacles and buildings. Because it is a two wheel, the balance is light and maneuverable. I have mowed overgrown fields, walkways, edge maintenance, fence rows, etc...
With an internal combustion 4 cycle engine you have plenty of power. The string is heavy so lasts a long time without changing line. It can hit questionable areas without fear of benign a drive shaft or throwing a blade at you.
Bienaviedo. What are you planning to do with the slope? What tillage methods will you be using? How often will it be worked? Most importantly how often will the soil be bare?
The slope is not too step that it would need terraces, as long as the ground has a cover and a root net in it. From the pictures it does not appear you have an erosion problem. It will continue to be stable as long as the soil is not left uncovered. However, if you are going to use traditional tillage practices; you will need to terrace. Once to soil is turned and the plant roots are cut, you will move soil with every rain.
How much rain does the land receive per year? How much does it rain in a day? If the rainfall is light and evenly spaced, one might be able to pacify the drainage with swales.
The short answer is no, with appropriate techniques you will be fine with no terraces. If you are plowing and turning frequently, you will wish for terraces.
As to the extent of the terraces, what size equipment will you be using? Hand tillage, walking tractor, larger....? Terracing seems like a lot of work and expense. Less so, if you make multiple small terraces. I would suggest a terrace wide enough for one or two passes of the equipment and then a undisturbed strip, permanently planted with a heavy deep rooting plant. That way less earth movement and less ground disturbance. Landslides are no fun.
About a year ago, an Insta-Pot found its way into my kitchen. Great another gadget I thought. Well it made me a believer. Here is the most excellent 'conversion' I have had so far:
Smoked Chicken (for a roast, gumbo, spaghetti, etc...) on the smoker for 30 minutes, instead of several hours at the risk of drying it out. pressure cooker for 15 minutes. Perfectly smoked moist melt in your mouth chicken. Add an extra 1/2 cup of water for the dogs to have 'chicken juice' on their dry food. Everyone is happy and excited for the weekend to come.
Ribs work the same. It allows one to keep the coals low and smokey without turning the bark into charcoal; and allows the meat to cook through and stay moist. Pressure cook for 20 minutes after smoking for an hour. Just took 2 racks off the grill, mowing the lawn and waiting for family to show up to have another beer.
I have found I prefer a beef roast in the crock pot over any other preparation, but a 2-3 hour roast at 325 in the oven does great at 45 minutes in the pressure cooker. Hard veggies go in with the meat. Softer veggies can go into the broth for 10 minutes, while the meat rests before carving.
In the short term you might not be happy with the results of turning it all in, but long term I think you will be ahead. Especially if the soil is heavy clay, getting decomposed organic matter below the surface will be a benefit. I think you have a good plan for this year. Get more nitrogen to the plants with the coffee grounds. I like grass clippings as a top cover (not too deep 2 to 4 inches) for sol health. Monitor the soil temperature to make sure you are not burning roots. Coffee grounds are 'hot'.
How deep are the chips turned into the soil? The chips need air to decompose quickly, so ensure the soil is not compacted or too wet. Perhaps consider a fungal inoculation with a decomposing type to accelerate the process.
Since I don't know, I will post my response as a question to add to the discussion. Would the manure tea be high in anaerobic bacteria vs aerobic for the compost tea? I would think without a thermophilic process to sterilize the base material it would be an issue for the plant and soil. I don't have any experience with alpaca dung, so perhaps it is like rabbit waste and safe for direct application?
I am in the education phase of the fungal approach. I thought I had it all worked out with keyline plowing, small swales, deep rooted legumes, and some bio char. Just recently, I stumbled on the fungal scene and realized I had only scratched the surface what I need to do to feed my dirt to become soil again.
As far as time table, I have years to work this project; but the more I do now the soon I can plant trees knowing the foundation is building. I have to work the land in intervals, as I don't live on or near the property. I have resources to put into the land, but have to watch per acre costs as they add up quickly. I have tractors and access to equipment.
Feel free to suggest any ideas. Let's call it a $10k a year budget to give you a parameter over a five year period of time.
Thank you for the link. Good information. In regard to this season planting, I am afraid I have a ways to go before I get my mesquite thicket ready for planting. While I am working on it, I do have some areas I would like to plant to know what I like.
Yes. part of the problem I have is the property was bulldozed and half assed swaled several years back. Then it was not completed, rented out on a grazing lease, and severally abused. I bought it and it was a mess. I have been slowly working to a master plan; but it takes time. More info here:
I started a new topic as it exceeds the scope of my other question about mycorrhizal networks. In learning more about the fungal side of soil biology I have encountered some statements that confuse me. I am led to believe by some sources that a soil is either bacterial or fungally dominated. While it is not specifically stated, I am left with the impression that soil for growning vegatative plants needs bacteria and wood plants/trees need fungi. In other material I have read that they are interdependent. I am sure that soil biology is vastly more complex than we currently understand, so there is no right answer academia can provide.
My question is this based on this project. I intend to inoculate the soil with as much local biology as I can. I have several oaks on the property that are 50 to 75 years old at a minimum. I also have some pecan trees that are 20 to 30 year old 'garden trees', as well as some native pecans trees in the area that are volunteers along fence rows. 103 acres is a lot of spraying and brewing of compost tea; but I feel essential to restore the micro flora has been stripped from the property. But as I understand it, mycorrhizal tissue does not distribute in a compost tea, is that correct? So my plan was to expose seed for the vegatative plants as well as the roots of the trees with ectomycorrhizal spores to maximize the living root net exposed to arbuscular spores across the entire pasture, thus filling in the network as quickly as possible.
As you can see from the photo, someone in the past bulldozed the land. Then it was overgrazed for years. So the soil biology is recovering. I has been allowed to go to its natural state of rangeland the past several years. At some point I will do some keyline work and put in some small swales to plant my trees downslope. But it needs a lot of time and husbandry. (how it looks this spring:)
As you can see I have a lot of compaction issues and mesquite infestation. (love the mesquite, but next to impossible to work around.)
With that background and a focus on nut tree production, is there a large scale process to harvest local spores and beneficial bacteria that will propagate arbuscular spores? I am looking through protocols and processes; but there seems to be a lot of mis-information given in great spirit; but not applicable to arbuscular spores.
How would one approach a large scale reinnoculation of land with spores to fill in the mycelium network as quickly as possible? Thank you all for your input and effort to advise me on this subject. It is much appreciated!
I grew up on the Texas Gulf Coast so have looked at different structures for high wind areas. Short answer is they should do very well, if done correctly. If a stick frame can withstand the forces, and they do under the new codes, then a high mass structure is a piece of cake. That being said, building along the coast, especially since Andrew and Katrina, the building codes have become so limited and strict it may be extremely difficult to get one approved.
Assuming that you can get it approved, what is your elevation? A mile inland may still put you at risk of tidal surge, which is a structures worst enemy. High wind is nothing compared to the surf suddenly pounding on your front door. Building a mound foundation considering the weight of your walls would be a good option, but will have to be bulwark-ed to keep it stable. If you can stay above the surge, your biggest worries are resolved. The next would be stablizing the soil around your walls and roof. You mentioned rammed earth. I am assuming the traditional earthship with rammed earth tires stacked and backfilled with dirt, correct? As long as a decent root structure is established in your retaining walls the high wind will not strip the soil and expose your walls to the wind. The roof will also need to be secured well with hurricane straps, but that is the same with any construction now. Lastely, leave plenty of wood in your frames for the window/greenhouse wall to screw plywood into when shuttering for a storm.
I don't have any experience with cooling tubes and humidity. My first thought is smooth wall plastic or metal pipe could be cleaned with bleach or ammonia periodically to combat mold. A hepa filter small enough to capture mold spores at the exhaust end would be a good precaution. that is something you could test before building by running your lines underground and into a closed container/space for a summer to see what happens.
Good luck. and be careful of expansive clay. That much weight on 'gumbo soil' will be a challenge to keep level. However, without sheet rock you may never notice settling!
I appreciate everyone's replies. While there is no consensus I believe that the subject is far too complex to have one answer. My inclination is to use as much local bacterial and fungal inoculant as I can harvest and let the micro-fauna kingdoms work it out. I am interested to see what other opinion are expressed about the merging of mycillium networks. I think that is an area that needs a lot more study.
I have a question about using mycrorrhizal fungi inoculant on roots of both trees and annuals. The scenario is a primary orchard in a silvopasture/agriforst design. The trees will be planted in a swale system (on contour, of course.) The swales will be about 60 feet apart. The trees will be inoculated when planted. The strips between swales will be pasture with nitrogen fixing deep rooted species, to fight compaction and improve nitrogen content.
My question is: If both the trees and vegatation is inoculated to form there own colonies, I am hoping for more rapid improvement in all plant growth and soil health. However, I don't know if I am setting up competing networks (although they will take years to reach one another); or if they will fill in and become symbiotic to one another? The concern is my trees are of primary importance. This is first and foremost an orchard, with the plant life - livestock cycle improving overall health of the soil; and accelerating soil regeneration to support the trees.
Bonus question: I have heard many people advocate root pruning agriforests to keep the trees from competing with intercrop species. That seems intuitive from a traditional agricultural aspect; but counter to good permaculture. By pruning the roots, one breaks the fungal network, limiting the benefit of the key mycelium network. I would think a more appropriate permaculture response would be let the forest be a savanah and don't disturb the network the plants decide is appropriate.
Annie Hope wrote: In terms of temperature wanted - would we want an insulated rocket stove or would that burn too hot?
If you insulate you will need less wood. The temperature will be a function of how much fuel you add. Better heat retention = less fuel needed for a given heat. It could get too hot, but you can regulate that temp gauges and less fuel.
Annie Hope wrote:
Also, am I right in presuming that you couldn't put a brisket smoker at the end of a rocket stove as it burns so hot there would be little flavour in the smoke?
I would humbly suggest that you are incorrect. I have not built mine (yet), but will be going with a vertical chamber smoker over a rocket stove firebox. I am a native Texan, so familiar with the style of pit you are referring. They are common but the design is not inherently better than a vertical chamber. There is much debate over cross draft vs direct draft configurations on the internet. There is a lot of time spent on balancing heat due to the horizontal orientation of these types of smokers. Since heat rises vertical chambers have the advantage of a good solid draw of smoke through the entire chamber naturally. Why people fight physics is a mystery.
Don't confuse a vertical smoker with a rocket heater design with the big chamber acting as a 'reburner' for the gasses released as smoke. In a rocket heater the gases are trapped in the barrel and burn completely and have more time to transfer the heat energy to the walls of the barrel. The up, down, up and out the flue design at very high temps, allows all the smoke to be converted completely to heat. Very efficient heater; but also very different from a rocket stove. In a rocket stove, the design does not have a reburn chamber. It burns fuel efficiently without a lot of smoke because of the efficient draft design. However, with both, the intake can be dampened to slow the air flow and slow the burn. By controlling the air, you will control the temp and the amount of un-burned gasses very efficiently.
Rocket stoves do burn hot. Or another way to look at it, is they burn to the same temperature, with less fuel. Use the efficiency of the design to your advantage. One does not have to burn half a cord of wood to develop a coal bed to then transfer the heat laterally and back through the cooking surface (cross draft). Very inefficient. A smoker has to come up to temp before the meat can be added regardless of the design, unless you have days to cook which is impractical in a commercial operation. Use the rocket stove concept to heat the metal and bring it to temp. Then use a very little bit of wood, with the flue shut down, allow the wood to smolder (providing the smoke) and to maintain temp.
It sounds as if you have done a lot of research, but since this may be read by others at a later date, let me add a few things. Meat stops building the smoke ring, or outer layer of meat that carries the smoke flavor, at 170F. Above this temp all the smoke does it toughen the 'bark' or outer layer of meat and gives it the texture and taste of a hockey puck. There is a time when 'low and slow' on the heat is good. But understand that the value added on the smoke flavor stops when the surface temp of the meat exceeds 170F. This is why it is recommended that the cooking temperature of the system stays around 225 and no higher than 250F. Having the oven in this range allows delta between the meat surface and the stove to change slower and build the smoke ring which is what it is all about.
All this can be summed up by this. The rocket stove design is very efficient at bringing the smoker up to cooking temp, and can be dampened easily and controlled with only the smoking wood, without the large bed of coals in an offset firebox. Also the design lends itself to good smoke dispersal and coverage in the vertical orientation. Unless you design the smoke chamber like a reburner, or get the heat up very hot, your smoke will stay smoke and not burn as fuel in the smoker. If your smoker chamber is that hot (500+F) the smoke will burn; but your meat is already ruined anyway at that high a temp.
Thank you for the link and suggestion. I think you hit a home run with that. Safe, easy to apply, inexpensive, and non-toxic. I will definitely have to give that a try. I very much appreciate the information. Thank you.
I have come across recipes for whitewash that calls for a large amount of salt. I am wondering what purpose in the mixture it serves, and also if it will actually act as an attractant. By including it am I basically providing salt licks for every critter in the county to come harass my trees? I had not heard or considered cayenne pepper as a deterrent. I like that idea.
Anybody care to share recipes or formulas for a proven whitewash that will deter animals chewing? So far the most consistent mix consists of 3 cups hydrated lyme. 1 cup table salt. 3 gallons of water mixed in a 5 gallon bucket. Add powered deterrent and mix til dissolved. Most natural deterrents are centered around bloodmeal. If there is better formula that is proven to you, I am interested in the input.
I am looking for a large scale natural solution to grasshoppers. North Central Texas. I watch the pasture all last summer of my new place. It was a grasshopper factory. I could walk 10 feet and flush out several dozen. I am about to start planting and want to keep them under check.
In the permaculture perspective, I don't have a grasshopper problem. I have a Guinea Fowl deficiency. Any ideas on how many birds free ranging it will require to make a dent per acre? This is isolated property. Closest neighbor is perhaps half a mile or more. Very agricultural community. No one is going to call the home owners association on me, so not worried about the noise.
Any other natural alternatives to knocking down the hoards?
Looking for opinions and experience with painting vs whitewashing the trunks of trees.
I am about to plant 11 acres of pecan trees. It is a significant investment and this is my first large scale planting. I have a grasshopper, rodent and deer problem, as well as the Texas sun. Which is better to protect the young bark of the trees until they get a bit older? I have whitewash recipes and can mix up dilute latex mixtures. (I plan to dissolve some rodent repellant for good measure.)
Whitewash is tried and true, but don't know what level of insect or rodent protection it affords. It has worked for years, but Latex wasn't available to Ol' Granddad. I think the latex would be a better deterrent, but don't know how well it will let the bark breathe.
Well, I don't know if it is productive or if I would advise articulating it; but the one recurring sentence that comes to mind is:
Why the hell do you want to fight nature so much?"
It is my one thought anytime I get into a conversation or watch someone in traditional agriculture. A more productive comment might be: "Do you know there is an easier way to achieve what your doing?" But the response is usually along the lines of maximizing revenue... even at the risk of an economic loss.
Sorry to not respond sooner. I wanted to give my answer some thought before I shot it out there. Here is my take for your situation, which I see two determining factors. Minimal slope and (relativity) easy to move soil. I would not use the a frame. What I would suggest is picking two points as far away from each other as you can measure. Use a laser level or a long thin tube for your water level. Pick 2 equal points on contour and mark. Cut that in half with another point on the same elevation. Then in half again, finding points on contour. Use lowest level (depression) in the surrounding terrain when you mark all these points. Trench indiscriminately from point to point after you are comfortable with your base measurements.
You are not fighting a lot of slope or heavy clay soil. You have more flexibility where you put the swale. The top of the swale'e elevation does not mean anything. It is only at the lowest level where water will settle that needs to be level to stop the water from seeking a lower level. You can control that by trenching. Sandy lose soil is easier to move. Pick your line and shape the bottom of the trench to it (within reason.)
The biggest challenge I would see for your soil is how does water move across the landscape without soaking down into the sandy soil? Are swales your best strategy to hold water? Do you get a lot of run off? Is the surface crusted which slows absorption? How deep to bedrock or hard pan? Also you need to stabilize that sand to keep your swales clean. It sounds like you have a lot of wind erosion. Until you can get roots into the berms you will need to mulch to keep the berms in place and the swales from washing in.
If you already live in Western WA then you know the weather. It will be more or less the same anywhere west of the Cascades. You other option is to go east of the mountains. Lots of sun, but colder temps, snow, and water availability issues. Do you research. Also anywhere in WA state is going to be pretty heavy govt. regulation on land.
This one comes with some 'baggage' but it is east of the mountains, but just over the pass in Cle Elum. It is green and water rights are available (but probably not in that price). It backs up to Federal Land but is not remote. In fact you are just on the edge of town. 40 acres for $60k. If you can live with the wetland designation, it might be worth looking into:
The answer is yes; but the real question is how many. I know in Europe hazel is a common hedge. I think the limitation though is sunlight. Hazelnut like mostly sunny light. In a hedge environment only the top most and outer limbs get the light. I have read that they do produce, but not in large quantities.
For anyone interested, There are a couple of 10 acre tracts for ~$600 acre with this soil profile below. Not all the land has this nice a profile, but some do.
The Quivera series consists of very deep, well drained soils that formed in calcareous alluvium derived from pyroclastics. Quivera soils are on fan terraces and have slopes of 0 to 8 percent. The mean annual precipitation is about 13 inches and the mean air annual temperature is about 51 degrees F.
TAXONOMIC CLASS: Fine, mixed, superactive, mesic Calcidic Argiustolls
TYPICAL PEDON: Quivera extremely gravelly loam - rangeland. (Colors are for dry soil unless otherwise noted.)
RANGE IN CHARACTERISTICS:
Soil moisture: Intermittently moist in some part of the SMCS from July to September and December to February. Aridic ustic moisture regime.
Depth to calcic horizon: 20 to 40 inches
Soil temperature: 50 to 55 degrees F.
Hue: 7.5YR or 10YR
Value: 4 or 5 dry, 2 or 3 moist
Chroma: 2 or 3, dry or moist
Hue: 5YR to 10YR
Value: 4 or 5 dry, 3 to 5 moist
Chroma: 2 to 4 dry, 2 or 3 moist
Texture: gravelly clay loam, gravelly clay
Clay: 35 to 50 percent
Rock fragments: 15 to 35 percent gravel
Reaction: Neutral to moderately alkaline
Calcium carbonate equivalent: less than 15 percent as segregated filaments
Hue: 7.5YR or 10YR
Value: 6 to 8 dry, 5 to 7 moist
Chroma: 2 to 4 dry, 2 to 3 moist
Texture: very gravelly loam, very gravelly loamy sand, very gravelly clay loam
Clay: 10 to 30 percent
Reaction: Slightly alkaline or moderately alkaline
Calcium carbonate equivalent: 15 percent calcium carbonate as segregated filaments, soft masses and coated rock fragments
GEOGRAPHIC SETTING: Quivera soils are on fan terraces and have slopes of 0 to 8 percent. Elevations range from 5,700 to 6,800 feet. The soils formed in gravelly calcareous alluvium derived from pyroclastics. The annual precipitation ranges from 12 to 14 inches. Mean January temperature is about 36 degrees F., mean July temperature is about 73 degrees F., and the average annual air temperature is 49 to 54 degrees F. The frost-free period is 120 to 160 days.
DRAINAGE AND PERMEABILITY: Well drained; slow to medium runoff; slow permeability.
USE AND VEGETATION: Used primarily for livestock grazing and wildlife habitat. Vegetation is blue grama, black grama, galleta, fourwing saltbush and winterfat.
Great post! Good information. I am no stranger to tax sales. But I do know State law varies considerably on the subject. With all the normal disclaimers, can you tells us what you know about the title to the land and the liens, tax or otherwise, is handled. I know in Texas when you buy a tax foreclosure, you get a clean deed, as the court proceeding take care of all the liens. In Oklahoma it is the exact opposite. The court's ruling only transfers ownership and all liens stay in place. Very bad juju for the buyer. Caveat Emptor in the worst way.
You mentioned snow, normally snowfall calculates at about 1/10th the volume for precipitation measurements. So is that 13-16 inches of rainfall with another 4.7 in winter precipitation; or is the 13-16 inclusive? 18-21 inches of precipitation would not be too bad for high desert.
As for specific practices, what region are you looking for resolution? What is the climate, rainfall, and 'hay season'?
In my area, if I were practicing the above, feed the land, rotation; I would come into my fields after the last cut in the fall (late August); and plant a 60 day hemp crop to recharge the nitrogen in the soil, and through down some heavy organic mulch. After that was shredded, I would throw down cereal rye (October) for the over winter crop. In the early spring that would get chopped and dropped (March/April) to suppress weeds in the spring, feed the soil, and retain moisture to get the hay crop established. So my productive months for hay, April - August, would have good healthy well fed biology to drive the growth, with up to seven months of rest and care. If the fields were doing double duty as a cash crop/forage crop; along with hay; some of the chop and drop plant matter would go to feed in the off months. Or the cash crop would be planted before or after the summer heat in the rotation.
If you can give more information on your area, I believe a rotation could be planned that would address your concerns for your area.