What!?!?! You didn't know his noodlyness's preferred attire is that of a pirate?!?! May he forgive you of your ignorance! You must know the fact of global warming being due to the decrease in the number of pirates, right?!
Nobody is saying you aren't open minded enough. The fact that you sought this forum is proof of that. You apparently missed a major point that Paul made.
You can have a beautiful lawn without having to worry about what is growing in your neighbor's yard. In fact, I'll add that to my list of what not to do: disturb your neighbor's flora. It won't do you a bit of good. It'll just grow back and even more tenaciously. The time and effort wasted is yours. If you want to do it right, that is not the way. Focus on making your yard great. Then the neighboring yard will no longer be able to invade if you make your lawn as strong as it can be.
Whose, fence is it? If it is their's then there is nothing you can do, short of building a taller fence on your side of it with a concrete pad to keep weeds and trees from growing between the two. If it is yours, then you could perhaps take the absentee landlord to court for damages. If he doesn't show, then you get a default judgment, and possibly a lien against his property if he defaults on that judgment. Even if he shows, take pictures and a bring a property survey and you should have a sound case. I used to work for a very scrupulous and involved landlord. He wouldn't have allowed his tenants to do that, or their neighbors. There are ways to deal with "bad" neighbors. Invading their property is not a good way to deal with them. I learned that if you want to deal with bad neighbors, do it legally. Contact your neighborhood code enforcement. They generally like the prospect of imposing a fine for bad yards.
Keep your head about you, nobody is attacking you. We're just making suggestions as to what we'd do in your situation. You DID ask US for our suggestions, right? Being a good neighbor goes much farther than keeping unwanted plants from spreading to neighboring properties. It also extends to not violating their property in retaliation, which is essentially what you did. I will not sanction that action. Call it defense of your yard if you want. It is not. Move your focus away from your neighbor.
You don't need desperation in your life, I suggest you lose that as well. You don't need it and it causes you to do things that are counterproductive. Which in turn leads to further desperation. This is not a life or death situation, but you're quickly letting it become something that will lead to you suffering a heart attack or stroke. Nobody here wants to see that.
You still haven't posted pics, those would be of great help in helping you with this problem.
I agree with Paul. Here's how I'll help justify his statement:
How much is it to rent a tiller? I reckon at least $50, most likely more. Then you have to add in gas. And don't forget it is still back breaking work.
Forget the tiller, forget the killer. For much less than $50 you can get seed for a cover crop and toss it by hand for less time, effort and money than either killing or tilling. And you'd be helping them improve their soil instead of destroying it. That way they'll be a leg up in getting a suitable lawn established. Win-win, for you and them.
I think hairy vetch would be a good cover to sow this time of year, and you'd not have worry about many weeds. The vetch will smother them all.
Then do what Paul suggests, enrich your own lawn. If you've ever seen a good stand of the right grass in the right place, you'd know that there really isn't any room for weeds to sprout. If you're starting to have a problem with weeds in your lawn, then your lawn needs to become stronger.
Pawpaw seed is slow to germinate, but it is not difficult to grow seedlings if certain procedures are followed. Do not allow the seed to freeze or dry out, because this can destroy the immature, dormant embryo. If seeds are dried for 3 days at room temperature, the germination percentage can drop to less than 20%. To break dormancy, the seed must receive a period of cold, moist stratification for 70-100 days. This may be accomplished by sowing the seed late in the fall and letting it overwinter; the seed will germinate the following year in late July to late August. Another way is to stratify the seed in the refrigerator (32o- 40o F/0o- 4o C). In this case the cleaned seed should be stored in a plastic ziplock bag with a little moist sphagnum moss to keep the seed moist and suppress fungal and bacterial growth. After stratification the seed should be sown 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in a well-aerated soil mix, pH 5.5-7, with an optimum temperature of 75o- 85oF (24o- 29o C). Use tall containers, such as tree pots (ht. 14"-18"/35-45 cm) or root trainers (ht. 10"/25 cm), to accommodate the long taproot. The seed will normally germinate in 2-3 weeks, and the shoot will emerge in about 2 months. Germination is hypogeal: the shoot emerges without any cotyledons. For the first two years, growth is slow as the root system establishes itself, but thereafter it accelerates. Trees normally begin to bear fruit when the saplings reach 6 feet, which usually requires five to eight years.
If you can't get seedlings to take, you may try seeds. I think seeds are what I'm going to try.
So, in a nutshell: Pigs taste good Make great seasoning for cast iron cookware Feed themselves Ease the need for a dino powered bush hog. Play the role of leaky pond repairman. Make great game accessories for your favorite winter sports (I added that one) Eat poop and turn it into more poop.
I wonder if they make good roller/crimpers for no-till crop killing?
10 is outright too much! I use Scott's organic, which has a similar analysis and consistency to Ringer. I use a Scott's spreader, so the settings are the same as yours. Scott's recommends using 7 1/2 with their lawn food in their spreaders. I use the 4 1/2 setting with great results without wasting a lot of fertilizer. I'm thinking of going even lower this fall to maybe 2 or 3. I prefer to do 3-4 light feedings instead of the recommended 1 big one each season. This way less food is lost to runoff. With these settings, I doubt you'll have to refill until the next feeding. I have about 7000sq ft. Occasionally I have to refill toward the end, if I didn't load the hopper full enough.
Paul's idea works great too. I'm just in too much denial for wasting my money on the spreader to not use it.
Suburbman wrote: It is a gasoline engine and the tank from which the supply of gasoline is obtained is situated in a place where it cannot in the least endanger the property in that vicinity in case of fire. The tank is placed upon two long timbers which extend out over the waters of San Luis creek. In case of a conflagration, the tank can, on a moment’s notice, be dumped into the creek. It is a safeguard which Mr. Tullmann was very careful to take.
Wow. We've come along way in the last 100 and some odd years. And to even call it a safeguard. Think burning creek.
I'm glad you cleared that up about the New Testament. I would've thought you had something against us Old Testament guys.
I do believe literalness is a word.
Fukuoka really pushed a philosophy rather than a set of techniques. That philosophy helps one find a path to follow. His techniques are rather extensions of that philosophy, to help along that path. It is rather like a martial art in many ways.
I think a big chunk of why people look to the big chem and big bio for solutions is simple consumerism. As a society, we've been bred to expect only good things from big name, high tech companies. Anything else is just not up to snuff.
If industrial farming is so efficient, why has the percentage of the world's starving not improved over the last 100 years?
Trifolium repens and T. pratense, (white and red clover) do well here, but my budget is limited. I've been saving seed of the two varieties, and hope to grow my supply from there. I have 5lbs of vetch and the same of rye. The vetch supposedly lays in mats, unless it has something to support it.
I plan on doing 3 beds. One rye, one vetch, and one with both. I might try a few bulbs in the ones with rye, to test CurrentWave's theory. My main worry there is mowing the garlic along with the rye. I'll mostly plant them in the one with just vetch.
Don't forget, the rye is not just for ground cover. It makes a very tasty bread! I'm not too worried about the rye in the spring. Rye was cultivated long before the advent of the iron horse. I plan on mowing it after it goes to seed. That should kill it, or at least most. What ever is left I plan to keep mowed around my other plants. I'm not too worried about volunteers, because I'll just be planting it again in the fall anyway. I'm hoping that since the rye goes to seed before the vetch, I can mow both and be left with the vetch after harvesting the rye. Then I can harvest the vetch in summer. Then start the cycle over in the fall.
I have some Plantains in my lawn. They don't get the purdy flower head like those. I tend to discourage them myself. I get both the narrow and wide leaf types. I prefer dandelions over the plantains. They're tasty.
I'll have to check that out. I think there's a Korean store on my way home from work. Barring that, Marugg sells a hammered steel sickle that I can get for under $30 including shipping. I haven't seen a good sickle in a hardware store either.
My plan is to cover my garden for the winter with the rye and vetch. I forgot that I also planned on planting garlic. I'm just wondering if I should plan on planting the garlic separate from the rye/vetch, or plant them together. I guess I could just plant some in the rye/vetch, and some by its lonesome, and maybe some with just vetch. My biggest concern is the rye overshadowing the garlic.
I do that with my "weeds" too. Just pull 'em and toss 'em on the ground. Same with my old plants. If I didn't tend to some weeds and they went to seed, I pile them in a special spot just for seedy weeds. I'm thinking of buying a sickle for regularly mowing weeds around my plants.
20-30ft canes? What's your secret. I just planted some blacks this past season. They grew a few canes, only 4-5ft. I harvested less than 1/2 a pint. Will they just get better with age? Or should I do something different?
Er, well... kinda sorta not exactly. Costco's is a warehouse club. Anyways, usually some will sprout regardless of treatment. Many sources, especially organic don't treat. I just happen to have some grain of the crop I'd like to try, so I'll use some from that instead of buying seed just to do a test run. I've read articles of people growing rice, beans, etc. from supermarket sources. Why not quinoa? If you have some laying around, the worst that could happen is it enriches your soil a little. If the price is right at the health food store, perhaps give it a try.
I think it is a minimal amount of work to stabilize a hot fertilizer. I'm not saying building a pile and turning it a bunch of times until done. I'm saying mix it well with some carbons, wait 3-4 days, then spread. If the needed carbons are unavailable, just spread sparingly as Paul initially suggested. The result should be a still fairly hot manure, with some of its N stored in carbon for release later. Don't overdo the carbons, or they might keep taking up N after you lay the compost.
Still, that is not a bad yield for the first time growing a certain crop. Did you use food grade or seed grade grain? I've some quinoa I bought recently at Costco's. I might try growing some next year.
Do have some pictures of your lawn? Both wide angle and close up will help us tremendously in helping you. Lay off any herbicides for now, vinegar, organic, and especially roundup. All kinds of herbicides are just that: plant killers. And since you are trying to grow plants, ie. grass, you need to stop with the plant killers. Grass is fairly sensitive to herbicides, more so than most weeds are. You're just making it harder to grow a nice lawn. Yes, vinegar makes a good herbicide, but more on that after you get your lawn reestablished. It won't help you much until then.
Get your soil analyzed. Get some pics of your yard posted. Lay off the herbicides. Lay off of tilling or otherwise disturbing your soil as well.
We had a very bad ice storm in northern IN around 1990-92. Trees and power lines came down everywhere. Several trees around our house lost some large branches. That sound is an awesome reminder of the power of nature.
I am fairly partial to IN for affordability. Its hard not to grow most things here. That's probably part of why we're famous for corn, one of the harder things to grow, imo. Cheap land is fairly abundant. Cost of living is decent even in Indianapolis.
I'm with Brenda on now being the time to buy. Anywhere. There are very few places in the US unaffected by the crash.
Perhaps compost it, at least a little bit, with some carbons first to cool it off. That way you can spread your fertilizer and OM all in one step. The carbons should lock up some N and release it over time. Mix the manure and carbons, let them sit a day or two then spread.
Paul, I remember building a stove similar to that pic posted above when I was in boy scouts. It consisted of a 2lb coffee can, perforated along each rim with a can opener. It also served a double purpose as a charcoal starter for the grill.
I can't put up a greenhouse, which is the main thing I could use a cob or rocket heater for in my area. I'm looking at reselling my house in the semi-near future, and alt-anything doesn't really sell well in this neighborhood. I might try a rocket mass cob pizza oven tho.
As far as rocket mass tech, the closest I've come so far is a chimney type charcoal starter. Those things are awesome. Its all in the updraft.
Do you go to a store often? Talk to the same clerks each time? Bring them in a treat. Stir up some word of mouth. Maybe they'll let you put a flier up to drum up business. Little things like that can go a long way toward supplementing your income.
Have you tried pawpaw? I'm planning on planting a couple next spring.
Sounds like you have enough going that you may need to hire some help to get it all done!
You could offer fresh and dried herbs at your stand as well.
Speaking of vines, you mentioned in another thread that you weave your tomato vines instead of trellising them. I did a search on google and could only come up with florida weave, a type of trellis system for tomatoes. Is this what you're talking about? Or are you actually weaving the vines together? How? I like the idea of exchanging a little work for lowering material usage, storage, and maintenance.
Brenda. You obviously have at least one product that sells well. Those raspberries are definitely drawing a crowd. Now if you put your blueberries and strawberries out there, I'm sure you'd sell the dickens out of them too. It could become a kind of one stop, berry shop. People would come in and find the rare raspberry. Then they'd see the blueberries and strawberries, and whatever other berries you grew. They'd say hey, why do I have to go to the grocer now? I've got all my berries here. I noticed all kinds of berry farms up the west coast of MI during our honeymoon. Lots of blueberries and vineyards. I bet they started small like you did. Perhaps you could spark a new cottage industry. Raspberry wine is awesome!
Anyone with a welder and metal cutting tools can build the frame of the press. The cylinder can be a length of steel pipe with a plate welded on to close one end. A welding shop should be able to do this relatively cheaply. All they should need is the materials and to look at the description and pictures in the article. I'd estimate $50-75 US for the frame and cylinder, give or take some for the price of steel. The 3-ton jack can be had at most auto parts, hardware, or tool stores for about $10-15 US. You should be able to multi purpose the jack and have it available for other uses as well.
It seems to me that this house's roof drops to ground level around the windows and doors. Full drainage is direct to the ground from the sod roof. That drawing includes the windows and looks like ventilation on the left.
There are different varieties of sunflower, some of which are multi-headed. They're called floribundas if I recall correctly. I think those might be the ones you're growing Brenda. The ones I grow are single headed, although I hear that if you cut the flower head off at a certain time, it will cause the stalk to send off several replacement heads. I planted mine late in the season, so they're rather small this year. Next year I plan on hunting down a variety that has thick stalks and grows 7-8 ft, plus. The design I'm thinking of would be like a garden arbor, but framed with sunflowers, and maybe a stake or two to help support. The sunflowers would be in two rows, about 4 ft apart. 4 or 5 sunflowers from each row opposing each other would be trained to cross in a point like a tepee. Each end of the row would be open, so you could potentially walk through the arrangement for picking veggies, as the sunflowers mature.
Another idea I have is utilizing a living willow hut for a trellis. You could plant your veggies around the perimeter, and train them up the hut. I think that might work better for heavier vines like squash or other heavy vining plants. I think it'd be great to see a living hut covered in pumpkins.
Brenda, I'm kind of intrigued by your tomato weaving technique. How do you do that?
Thanks everybody. I think I might pick a rather stout stemmed sunflower to try it out next year. I don't know if I'll do corn again, as we get very superb corn locally grown all season at the markets. While there is more than corn here in Indiana, the corn sure is damned good! I'm still undecided there.
If the sunflower is not stout enough alone as a trellis, then I could supplement it with stakes, but fewer and thinner than I'd otherwise need.
I plan on planting hairy vetch and winter rye as a ground cover in parts of my veggie beds soon. I also plan on planting garlic soon as well. Has anyone here successfully inter-planted all three? Is there a better winter companion to garlic?
I'm kind of new to the topic in general. I'm curious Paul, as to the advantages of PSP over this design. From my quick study of each design, this seems to take PSP and improve upon it. Your words indicate you think otherwise.