Joined: Feb 01, 2009
Location: North Central Michigan
anyone ever plant walnuts from nuts?
i have 3 baby walnut trees (carpathian, black and butternut)..
when i was driving to a nearby town this morning after a storm i saw walnuts ..i'm sure that is what they were..littering all over the road.
it is about 2 to 3 miles from our house..and I had thought about going back with a bag and gathering a few of them and tucking them into the ground, here and there in the woods and field..dont' know what KIND of walnuts they are, but i could open some and find out.
what do you think?? we have plenty of acerage so they would have room to grow ...and if we didn't use all the nuts would they be forage
Bloom where you are planted.
Walnuts take lots of space and time ... if I were going to incorporate them into my landscape, I would use selected cultivars to increase the odds that they would be making a positive contribution. If the nuts were very small and hard to shell, or were bitter, or the yield was low, that would be less than desirable.
Walnuts are noted for giving off lots of very strong allelopathic chemicals that interfere with other plants ... they are nice trees, but they don't play well with others. Better IMO to have a small stand of walnuts, and a productive one.
Here is a another discussion of walnuts and walnut guilds:
Joined: Feb 01, 2009
Location: North Central Michigan
yes i am aware, I have studied walnut guilds for several years in planning the guilds around the 3 walnut trees that I planted a couple of years ago (black walnut, butternut and carpathian walnuts)..I have done some extensive research and have lists of plants that will and will not grow under and around walnuts..
that wasn't my question..
i was wondering whether or not anyone had attempted to grow walnuts from the nuts themselves..and how successful they were.
i have an opportunity to put some walnuts in in an out of the way area of our property, and also was curious as to whether anyone was aware of their forage abilities.
i am attempting to diversify the tree species on our property which is mostly aspen, oak, ash, alderng othe, whild cherry and maple..in our woods and fields areas..and i am attempting to repolace the dhing aspens and wild cherries with some more sturdy trees that might provide something other than just shade and firewood and mulch..but maybe food products or forage or wildlife habitat
Joined: May 29, 2010
Location: Ava, Mo, USA, Earth
I've never tried to plant them, but I alway get some squire planted ones in the yard every year. If I wanted to crop them, I'd graft them to a known variety. It can take wild seedling decades to start producing. OTOH, transplanting seedlings always messed up the root system, so planting seeds and then grafting them can give the best trees. They do need cold stratification. If you are where they grow wild, fall planted ones should do fine. Plant heavy and thin or transplant of they are too thick. I don't have any way to guess the germination rate, but don't count on it being very high.
It's only August, so those walnuts falling now might be infested or not pollinated fruit. Here in zone 6 TN the black walnuts don't drop their main crop until mid October. If you do pick up those nuts, I'd crack a few to see if they look normal.
I have a few walnut seedlings that started growing out of the top of one of my sawdust piles (used in composting). They were planted by squirrels. As an experiment, I moved the two seedlings to buckets filled with nothing more than their original growing medium (pine sawdust). Several months have passed and the young trees are strong and vibrant. I will plant them in the ground, along with the contents of their buckets, in a few weeks.
If you want to add walnut trees to diversify, I don't think it would hurt to plant some seeds and give it a try.
Joined: Feb 01, 2009
Location: North Central Michigan
thanks so much for the info ..here is a list that I have on my computer for Juglone alleopathy..but there is more information in my notes ..i'll have to go over those
Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet Horticulture and Crop Science 2021 Coffey Rd., Columbus, Ohio 43210-1086
Black Walnut Toxicity to Plants, Humans and Horses HYG-1148-93 Richard C. Funt Jane Martin
The roots of Black Walnut (Juglans nigra L.) and Butternut (Juglans cinerea L.) produce a substance known as juglone (5-hydroxy-alphanapthaquinone). Persian (English or Carpathian) walnut trees are sometimes grafted onto black walnut rootstocks. Many plants such as tomato, potato, blackberry, blueberry, azalea, mountain laurel, rhododendron, red pine and apple may be injured or killed within one to two months of growth within the root zone of these trees. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50 to 60 foot radius from the trunk, but can be up to 80 feet. The area affected extends outward each year as a tree enlarges. Young trees two to eight feet high can have a root diameter twice the height of the top of the tree, with susceptible plants dead within the root zone and dying at the margins.
Not all plants are sensitive to juglone. Many trees, vines, shrubs, groundcovers, annuals and perennials will grow in close proximity to a walnut tree. Certain cultivars of "resistant" species are reported to do poorly. Black walnut has been recommended for pastures on hillsides in the Ohio Valley and Appalachian mountain regions. Trees hold the soil, prevent erosion and provide shade for cattle. The beneficial effect of black walnut on pastures in encouraging the growth of Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis L.) and other grasses appears to be valid as long as there is sufficient sunlight and water.
Gardeners should carefully consider the planting site for black walnut, butternut, or persian walnut seedlings grafted to black walnut rootstock, if other garden or landscape plants are to be grown within the root zone of mature trees. Persian walnut seedlings or trees grafted onto Persian walnut rootstocks do not appear to have a toxic effect on other plants.
Horses may be affected by black walnut chips or sawdust when they are used for bedding material. Close association with walnut trees while pollen is being shed (typically in May) also produce allergic symptoms in both horses and humans. The juglone toxin occurs in the leaves, bark and wood of walnut, but these contain lower concentrations than in the roots. Juglone is poorly soluble in water and does not move very far in the soil.
Walnut leaves can be composted because the toxin breaks down when exposed to air, water and bacteria. The toxic effect can be degraded in two to four weeks. In soil, breakdown may take up to two months. Black walnut leaves may be composted separately, and the finished compost tested for toxicity by planting tomato seedlings in it. Sawdust mulch, fresh sawdust or chips from street tree prunings from black walnut are not suggested for plants sensitive to juglone, such as blueberry or other plants that are sensitive to juglone. However, composting of bark for a minimum of six months provides a safe mulch even for plants sensitive to juglone.
Plants Observed Growing Under or Near Black Walnut* Trees Japanese Maples, Acer palmatum and its cultivars Southern Catalpa, Catalpa bignonioides Eastern Redbud, Cercis canadensis Canadian Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis Vines and Shrubs Clematis 'Red Cardinal' February Daphne, Daphne mezereum Euonymus species Weeping Forsythia, Forsythia suspensa Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica, and most other Lonicera species Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia ** Pinxterbloom, Rhododendron periclymenoides **'Gibraltar' and 'Balzac', Rhododendron Exbury hybrids Multiflora Rose, Rosa multiflora Black Raspberry, Rubus occidentalis Arborvitaes, Thuja species ** Koreanspice Viburnum, Viburnum carlesii, and most other Viburnum species Annuals Pot-marigold, Calendula officinalis 'Nonstop' Begonia, fibrous cultivars Morning Glory, Ipomoea 'Heavenly Blue' Pansy Viola Zinnia species Vegetables Squashes, Melons, Beans, Carrots, Corn Fruit Trees Peach, Nectarine, Cherry, Plum Prunus species Pear-Pyrus species Herbaceous Perennials Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans Hollyhock, Alcea rosea American Wood Anemone, Anemone quinquefolia Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum European Wild Ginger, Asarum europaeum Astilbe species Bellflower, Campanula latifolia **Chrysanthemum species (some) Glory-of-the-Snow, Chionodoxa luciliae Spring Beauty, Claytonia virginica Crocus species Dutchman's Breeches, Dicentra cucullaria Leopard's-Bane, Doronicum species Crested Wood Fern, Dryopteris cristata Spanish Bluebell, Endymion hispanicus Winter Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis Sweet Woodruff, Galium odoratum Herb Robert, Geranium robertianum Cranesbill, Geranium sanguineum Grasses (most) Gramineae family Jerusalem Artichoke, Helianthus tuberosus Common Daylily, Hemerocallis 'Pluie de Feu' Coral Bells, Heuchera x brizoides Orange Hawkweed, Hieracium aurantiacum Plantain-lily, Hosta fortunei 'Glauca' Hosta lancifolia Hosta marginata Hosta undulata 'Variegata' Common Hyacinth, Hyacinthus Orientalis 'City of Haarlem' Virginia Waterleaf, Hydrophyllum virginianum Siberian Iris, Iris sibirica Balm, Monarda didyma Wild Bergamot, M. fistulosa Grape Hyacinth, Muscari botryoides Sweet Cicely, Myrrhis odorata 'Yellow Cheerfulness,' 'Geranium,' 'Tete a Tete,' 'Sundial,' and 'February Gold' Sundrops, Oenothera fruticosa Senstitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis Cinnamon Fern, Osmunda cinnamomea Peony, **Paeonia species (some) Summer Phlox, Phlox paniculata Mayapple, Podophyllum peltatum Jacob's-Ladder, Polemonium reptans Great Solomon's-Seal, Polygonatum commutatum Polyanthus Primrose, Primula x polyantha Lungwort, Pulmonaria species Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis Siberian Squill, Scilla sibirica Goldmoss Stonecrop, Sedum acre Showy Sedum, Sedum spectabile Lamb's-Ear, Stachys byzantina Spiderwort, Tradescantia virginiana Nodding Trillium, Trillium cernuum White Wake-Robin, Trillium grandiflorum Tulipa Darwin 'White Valcano' and 'Cum Laude,' Parrot 'Blue Parrot,' Greigii 'Toronto' Big Merrybells, Uvularia grandiflora Canada Violet, Viola canadensis Horned Violet, Viola cornuta Woolly Blue Violet, Viola sororia *These are based upon observations and not from clinical tests. **Cultivars of some species may do poorly.
Plants That Do Not Grow Within 50 Feet of Drip Line of Black Walnut Herbaceous Perennials Colorado Columbine, Aquilegia caerulea Wild Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis Asparagus, Asparagus offinalis *Chrysanthemum Chrysanthumum species (some) Baptisia australis Hydrangea species Lilies, Lilium species (particularly the Asian hybrids) Alfalfa, Medicago sativa Buttercup, Narcissus 'John Evelyn,' 'Unsurpassable' 'King Alfred' and 'Ice Follies' Peonies, *Paeonia species (some) Rhubarb, Rheum rhabarbarum Trees Silver Maple, Acer saccharinum European Alder, Alnus glutinosa White Birches, Betula species Northern Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis Apples and Crabapples, Malus species Norway Spruce, Picea abies Mugo Pine, Pinus mugo Red Pine, Pinus resinosa Eastern White Pine, Pinus strobus Basswood, Tilia heterophylla Shrubs Red Chokeberry, Aronia arbutifolia Hydrangea species Mountain Laurels, Kalmia species Privet, Ligustrum species Amur Honeysuckle, Lonicera maackii Brush Cinquefoil, Potentilla species Rhododendrons and Azaleas, **Rhododendron species (most) Blackberry, Rubus allegheniensis Lilacs, Syringa species and cultivars Yew, Taxus species Blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum *Viburnum plicatum tomentosum 'Mariesii' Annuals and Vegetables Transplants Cabbage, Brassica oleracea capitata Peppers, Capsicum species (some) Tomatoes, Lycopersicon esculentum Flowering Tobacco, Nicotiana alata Petunia species and cultivars Eggplant, Solanum melongena Potato, Solanum tuberosum double-flowered cole vegetables *Cultivars of some species may survive but will do poorly.
The authors express their appreciation to Drs. M. Scott Biggs, Department of Horticulture and Crop Science, and Harry Hoitink, Department of Plant Pathology, for their review and additional comments.
All educational programs conducted by Ohio State University Extension are available to clientele on a nondiscriminatory basis without regard to race, color, creed, religion, sexual orientation, national origin, gender, age, disability or Vietnam-era veteran status.
Keith L. Smith, Associate Vice President for Ag. Adm. and Director, OSU Extension.
Joined: Sep 22, 2011
Location: South Central Mississippi
I was reading some old posts when I stumbled across this one and after reading it thought, "Aha! One I might actually be able to make a positive contribution on."
In the winter of 2009, my kids and I picked up ~ 6,000 nuts and managed to direct seed about 3,000 of them. I used a Dibble bar, dug a hole, dropped a nut in and stomped it into the hole.
That I know of we didn't get a single tree to come up.
The fall of 2010 was dominated by my wife building herself a house (lucky for me she chose a spot right across from my parents). We didn't bother collecting any nuts thinking that we wouldnt have the opportunity to plant what few we would have time to collect.
As luck would have it though, my Uncle was thinking along the same lines as moi insofar as he had been trying unsuccessfully over the past couple years to plant a goodly number of black walnuts. So spring 2011 rolls around, we're in the new shed and Uncle shows up in April with a pickup truck bed full of all manner of tree planting paraphernalia and several pots full of compost and black walnuts that be had hulled, arranged in layers within the compost and allowed to overwinter in his yard in North Mississippi to satisfy the cold stratification requirement.
As he was planting, I jumped in to help so as to learn all I could for if his method proved successful I had every intention of shamelessly copying it in future years. A couple days later he left to return to his home but left me all of his left over seeds that were in various stages of germination. I set to work asap and ended up planting ~ 170 germinated nuts and probably ended up nursing 150 of them through two droughts over the course of the summer.
The method was very straight forward. Follow it to the letter and you shouldn't have any problems: Dig around in a pot until you find a germinated nut (the earlier in the germination phase the better methinks) Put the nut in a compost lined bucket Yell for the kids to load up on the trailer Give the bucket with the germinated nuts to one of the more responsible ones Issue death threats all around for damaging baby walnuts Cuss because you forgot to hook up to the trailer Hook up to the trailer containing all needed tools, soil amendments, water, kids, nuts and dogs. Run the dogs out of he trailer. Tell kids, "Them blankety-blank dogs are NOT going anywhere near my walnut patch!" Cuss because you forgot your chewing tobakker. Retrieve chewing tobakker (DON'T SKIP THIS STEP!) Drive to walnut patch without spilling more'n bout half the water. Park, get out, yell at kids to check their youthful exuberance and getting to plant walnuts for the eighth straight day. Renew death threats but throw in some torture threats as mere death threats have started wearing off. Get all your stuff out of the trailer and walk around half an hour trying to find the point in the planting grid you left off because you were too cheap to buy marking flags. Once the first spot is (incorrectly?) found, dig a hole. Mine were usually about a foot or less wide and 8-10 inches deep. Amend the soil 1/2 and 1/2 with peat moss and refill until the hole resembles a hen's nest (shallow depression). Place any excess dirt on the downhill side to act as a little dam and mulch heavily with hay you steal from your father's hay rack (PLEASE don't tell'im) Part the soil with your hands, reverently lay the future semester of college tuition into the hole with the tap root oriented straight down (I actually had a kid mess that one up. Guess who is going to work for that semester's tuition?) Gently, lovingly eeeeeeease the dirt back into good contact with the entire length of the tap root and use a quart or so of water to make sure the dirt is well settled and in good contact with the root. Cuss when you look up and realize that you are but one foot away from the last tree you planted the day before. Cuss some more. Dig up the first nut and start over in the right place this time. Once planted following the above listed steps, mark the spot with whatever old half rotten stick happens to be laying around because you are too cheap to buy marking flags. Repeat the process until all nuts cease germinating or until hoarse from death threats.
We planted ours on a ten x ten grid which I will continue with in he future.
We watered every other day for the first two weeks and every other day if we had gone for more than about 5 or 6 days without a rain.
As best I can tell, my uncle was able to achieve about a 60% germination rate doing it this way. As my ultimate goal is to have 7 acres in black walnuts, I talk with as many people as I can find that have some experience along these lines. One lady that I met was also researching growing black walnuts for a grandchild. In her own research she reportedly found a gentleman that achieved a 95+% germination rate by first putting his seed into citrus bags and laying them in ant beds "to kill that little worm that gets in 'em."
I have found no other information of worm-in-walnut killage but it doesn't sound so radical that I won't try it this year.
Just so happens that I'm getting up at daylight in the morning to go pick up a bunch of seeds from the only other person that I know personally (besides my uncle and myself) that has large plantings of black walnuts. After I collect them, I will put them in large tubs that we get when my daddy buys molasses blocks for his cows. Many are damaged sufficiently to allow ants to get in. I plan on filling as many tubs as possible and plopping them down on top of ant hills to let them work their magic.
If you need any clarification on any point please don't hesitate to ask.
"Solve world hunger . . . tell no one." The, the, the, . . . THE GRINCH!