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Raised beds | (Read 1639 times) |
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paul wheaton
Administrator
Posts: 1342
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May 09, 2005, 08:02:49 AM |
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I really like to use stones for the border. A shallow raised bed (eight inches) is good for things with shallow roots (like strawberries). As the years go by, the bed can be made deeper (24 to 30 inches) and deep rooted plants (like tomatoes) can be planted.
Old logs can be good for borders too.
I never use anything treated, like railroad ties or that treated wood from the lumber store.
I would be hesitant to use cedar or any tree that might introduce a toxicity to help the tree outcompete other vegetation.
If a log rots in a few years, it can later be replaced with stone or another log.
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pixelphoto
Posts: 44
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June 20, 2007, 12:54:21 PM |
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I use concrete block to make raised beds.
the walkways are in between the walkways are wide enough i can get a good sized wheelbarrow down it with no problems and the growing areas are big enough and wide enough that i can reach from both sides.
I am not allowed to use pressure treated lumber because i organically grow.
I have also seen people use tires but once again I can not do that because of organic standards.
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Alison
Posts: 11
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May 14, 2008, 05:57:42 PM |
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I see regular concrete cinder blocks are approved for organic gardening. I'd planned to use more whiskey barrels to plant my garden this year, but after looking into cost, seems they have gone up in price quite a bit where I am, so I'm off in search of plan B. I have some landscaping blocks that I could rearrange to make some new beds and just add my veggies to my regular landscape, are these safe? Do they put anything extra in those decorative blocks? Is the coloring harmful? I know this is probably a silly question, but well, I was unsure. Thanks for any help!
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kelda
Posts: 265
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May 15, 2008, 01:32:51 PM |
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Hi! I do my raised beds by just working over the entire soil with garden fork, and then scooping out paths with a shovel. This creates 5-6" raised beds wherever there's not a path. Easy.
Also, this year I've been pulling out my cover crop (rye), leaving it lay on soil for few days, and then if I want to seed something, I just take the rye and smoosh it to the sides of the bed. (parallel to the paths)
Because my raised beds aren't supported by anything, they tend to become a bit narrower throughout the season. So letting that rye compost on the edges brings back a wider bed, plus the nutrients that the rye has. But without having it's decomposition interefere with the seeds and plants I'm eating. etc.
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permaculture.dave
Posts: 113
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May 20, 2008, 10:27:06 AM |
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We typically do our raised beds like Kelda. Just fluff & work the whole area then scoop out the paths. The fluffed soil plus amendments will sit a lot higher than the unfluffed soil did.
We actually try to avoid borders of any kind. We find that those borders tend to harbor running grasses and other perennial weeds that become hard to remove when they're firmly entrenched amongst rocks and logs. When I work an area I give the paths the same treatment as the beds so I'm sure I get out any gnarly weeds.
Also, as a note, the higher you raise your beds the more frequently you'll need to water in the summer (here in the Seattle area, anyway) because the beds will dry out quicker. There is a wide range of appropriate bed designs depending on climate, from sunken beds in the desert to high raised beds in the rainforest. Here in Washington west of the Cascades I think 6" is plenty (unless you have water to spare or another reason to raise them higher...e.g. elderly or wheelchair access).
Dave
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grassygirl
Posts: 24
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August 09, 2008, 07:24:53 AM |
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hi. question about converting a 20x20ft area that is boxed in on 3 sides with pressuretreated lumber. we had our kids playset in here due to lack of level area in yard. is there a way to line it and addsoil to make it safe for edibles??
thanks
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paul wheaton
Administrator
Posts: 1342
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August 09, 2008, 10:27:57 AM |
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Yes.
While plastic (like visqueen or the clear stuff) is another form of toxic gick, it stays pretty inert as long as it is not exposed to sun.
Personally, I would get rid of the pressure treated wood and then go with some other materials. But I think I'm bit more snooty than most about this sort of thing.
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grassygirl
Posts: 24
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August 09, 2008, 01:31:42 PM |
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hey snooty is fine by me, by the way paul my lawn is gettin nicer(i am the suburban girl who grew cowpeas,remember me?) still some bare patches and a bit rocky but for sure greenin uo and the clover has lessened!
back to the box though...if i get rid of the pt wood is the soil/wood chips in there toxic? what do you suggest i do i would love to make it a huge veggie garden, but not if it isntsafe
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paul wheaton
Administrator
Posts: 1342
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August 09, 2008, 03:21:03 PM |
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Congrats on the greener lawn. I take it that the cowpeas smothered weeds and improved the soil?
If it were me, I would take out the PT wood and I wouldn't worry about any residue. There will be residue, but not much. And what is there should be gone in a couple of years.
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Leah Sattler
Administrator
Posts: 597
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August 10, 2008, 06:15:33 AM |
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is the soil/wood chips in there toxic?
what are the wood chips made of? if they are cypress or pine that are not colored I think maybe you could get away without a full cleanout, if they are cedar then you should pull it all out imo. if they seem to be a fairly benign then scrape them off build your beds and put them down in the paths. Try digging down beneath the chips and see what the soil looks like. Is it earthwormy or barren?
I scoop the dirt from my paths into the planting beds also. Then I use old feed sacks and stepping stones to keep the weeds at bay in the paths. I think whether you could do that would depend on how deep your beds need to be. I was just trying to get a little farther above a clay line. I don't need to have the full root zone above ground level.
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Put a bit of sunshine in each day;
Others need its cheer and so do you-
Need it most when outer sky's dull gray
Leaves the sunshine-making yours to do.
-"scatter sunshine" Jaunita Stafford
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