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		<title><![CDATA[permies: Latest posts for the topic "Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design"]]></title>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<img src="http://www.texascooppower.com/content/detail_keyhole_comp.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> I came across this in our electric co-op's newsletter.  The designer doesn't mention anything about permaculture/hugel/etc. but uses many similar ideas to make a pretty interesting little ecosystem.  She says this performs very well in our current drought.  <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.texascooppower.com/texas-stories/nature-outdoors/keyhole-gardening" target="_new" rel="nofollow">Click here</a> for the article and <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.debtolman.com/projects.htm" target="_new" rel="nofollow">here</a> for the designer's site with a pdf.<br /> <br /> While I'm not crazy about the cemented rock wall around the outside, I think this is a pretty cool implementation of multiple practices all boxed up together in a small, productive unit.  She also does it in old boats, various kinds of containers.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Jan 28 2012 09:52:08 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[It's cute!  If you used stacked rocks, no mortar, it could provide plenty of habitat for lizards, snakes, toads and frogs.   <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" /><br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Jan 28 2012 10:47:00 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Tyler Ludens]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Tyler--very true. I would be concerned about them falling, although if you build it well it should be pretty sturdy, especially with a curved shape for support.  I also thought about using logs.  You could angle every few logs at a 90 degree angle to the wall so they jut into the bed and provide support.  This might help increase water storage too.  Downside of course would be it would eventually rot.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Jan 29 2012 08:38:26 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I was very surprised to find this video: <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykCXfjzfaco" target="_blank" >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykCXfjzfaco</a>.  The above article and pictures are a souped up version of the African keyhole beds in the video.  I'm surprised because I was trying to think of ways to improve upon Hemenway's keyhole beds to make them more drought tolerant a year ago and I never came across these!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Jan 29 2012 09:02:01 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Really excellent video showing the steps. Thanks. Hugelkultur beds usually make use of logs, but I don't think they have access to logs, so they use a layers of brush instead. The central tower is filled with compostable material, so the composter and the bed are built together. This makes sense, but I wonder if actually works. I don't see how the compost would radiate out towards the edge of the beds, unless you were growing perennials with deep root systems so they could go to the nutrient source. Would it work?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Jan 29 2012 11:36:25 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Todd Hoff]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Earthworms will move materials around within the bed, I think.  And many annuals have quite large root systems.<br /> <br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Jan 29 2012 12:30:34 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Tyler Ludens]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Todd -- I wonder too if that works, or how well it works.  I'm inclined to believe it works great because of the origin--I don't think Africans in poverty would waste materials and time on things they didn't know to work, but this might not be accurate thinking.  (a note after writing that: not meaning to assume that Africans or even those in the video are automatically in poverty.  The video comes from a charity organization that teaches people in poverty to grow a garden with materials they have, hence my connection.)<br /> <br /> I believe this deserves a trial <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Jan 29 2012 12:51:06 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
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				<cite>Chris Dean wrote:</cite>Todd -- I wonder too if that works, or how well it works.  I'm inclined to believe it works great because of the origin--I don't think Africans in poverty would waste materials and time on things they didn't know to work, but this might not be accurate thinking.  (a note after writing that: not meaning to assume that Africans or even those in the video are automatically in poverty.  The video comes from a charity organization that teaches people in poverty to grow a garden with materials they have, hence my connection.)<br /> <br /> I believe this deserves a trial <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" /> </div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> Totally agree it needs a trial. I was just trying to think it through. It could work simply because the original materials act much like a standard hugelkultur. The idea of the central tower flowing into the circle is brilliant. Again, just not sure how it could work. Though as Tyler says, it maybe worms or mushrooms or something. Most of the annuals I grow, except maybe <a href="http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/list/3904#53101" class="api" title="raising tomatoes without irrigation" target="_new">tomatoes</a>, don't seem to have root systems that long. Maybe they have a longer growing season so there's more time for root growth?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Jan 29 2012 13:10:57 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Todd Hoff]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<br /> <br /> i'm reminded of an old <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/8652/permaculture/colorado-potato-beetles-vs-permaculture#78939" class="api" title="what is the difference between organic and permaculture?" target="_new">Organic</a> Gardening magazine design my dad did years ago. it involved a wire compost bin in the center of a garden bed with plants surrounding it. the outside bed wasn't built up as much though. this was maybe 25 yrs ago<br />  to irrigate, water was dumped into the center, flushing the nutrients to the outside. it grew great <a href="http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/list/3904#53101" class="api" title="raising tomatoes without irrigation" target="_new">tomatoes</a>. the roots found their way inside, they were trellised around and over top of  the cage]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Jan 29 2012 22:10:25 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[duane hennon]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Going to try one out this year.  I built this out of stone and <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> (pretty rough cob--it wasn't "perfectly" mixed), the bottom is filled with logs for hugelkulture, with some broken down <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/2157/permaculture/concerns-cardboard-newspaper-as-mulch" class="api" title="concerns with using newspaper as mulch" target="_new">newspaper</a> and such here and there.  I ran a soaker hose under the top layer and planted some cover crop that hasn't come up yet.  Looking forward to growing in it!!<br /> <br /> <img src="http://www.roughingitblog.com/wp-content/images/africankeyhole.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <img src="http://www.roughingitblog.com/wp-content/images/africankeyhole2.jpg" border="0" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Feb 20 2012 11:49:07 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Wouldn't the compost "basket" soon clog up, plus there would minimal airflow, right?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Feb 20 2012 12:15:50 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Roman Milford]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
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				<cite>Roman Milford wrote:</cite>Wouldn't the compost "basket" soon clog up, plus there would minimal airflow, right?</div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> i think it becomes more of a 'feeder' for worms and soil critters , not like an aerobic hot compost pile.  looks like a natural version of the in-bed "worm towers" made of pvc pipe/5gal buckets.<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Feb 20 2012 12:48:32 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Matthew Fallon]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[That's a really cool concept!  I might implement it into a bed I'm installing this spring <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Feb 20 2012 21:32:01 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Hanley Kale-Grinder]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[this seems to me like a really innovative way to work hugelkultur into lanscaping so that the raised beds actually add aesthetic property value, this would make people more willing to have hugelkultur beds in their backyards and such in suburban areas<br /> <br /> for beds not within immediate range of the house, one could replace the compost tube with a stump innoculated with mushroom spores to add edible mushrooms to the bed, it might also make a good asparagus bed eh?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Feb 23 2012 13:19:20 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[@Devon<br /> <br /> I've never tried anything with mushrooms, only read a very little bit.  Would the lack of oxygen be a problem?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Feb 24 2012 15:10:44 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[well i have not yet grown any shrooms myself though i have heard others suggest burying a stump halway like a post in a hugelkultur bed, i also think it would work well with shrooms that naturally occur on stumps, such as chicken of the woods, the top of the stump would be exposed and the bottom would be buried within the bed, making it look similar to the pictures above, just a half-buried stump replacing the compost bin<br /> <br /> short answer, i think it depends on mushroom variety but i would say, generally speaking, no.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Feb 26 2012 00:39:22 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I'm looking at providing access to deeper into my hugelkultur by similar means. I am lining the perimeter of a three-foot deep trench with warehouse pallets standing on end, where I will close off the channels where the forks go with plugs that I will build for the purpose. I am taking two <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/9758/woodland/man-planted-trees" class="api" title="watch The Man Who Planted Trees" target="_new">trees</a> out in the back yard, as well as raising the canopy of an old Elm we have in the north west corner of the yard. Half of the wood I will have chipped. A quarter I will mix into the bed, a quarter will make great mulch for my walkways and raspberries, and I will store the rest in containers by the bed for carbon contributions atop garden waste that will go into the plugged channels on the bed's perimeter. Eventually, the channels will all be filled, and the pallets will rot away, but by that time the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/997/chickens/best-perennial-chicken-feed" class="api" title="the best perennial chicken feed" target="_new">perennial</a> food shrubs and cane berries and maybe dwarf fruit <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/9758/woodland/man-planted-trees" class="api" title="watch The Man Who Planted Trees" target="_new">trees</a> will replace their structure with a thick root mat. I hadn't thought of making it in the shape of the keyhole bed, though. I will play with that idea. That and innoculating my hugelkultur bed with some compatible mushroom strain. Any thoughts?<br /> <br /> -CK]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Feb 26 2012 19:23:06 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[also, chris dean, hows your beds coming, anything growing up and out yet?<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Feb 26 2012 19:40:15 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[The ground's still largely frozen where I am, and I have as yet to dig the hole the bed is going in to, half the wood going into the bed is still standing, but I have the bulk of the pallets needed, I think I will use one course in the hole and another course set in a foot or so. If the tiers work, I'll have one sub-surface and at least two to the top of the bed, maybe three. I've also been thinking of structuring the green elements of the bed such that they would provide support for a kneeling space around the top of the bed's perimeter. I was also thinking of using the course of pallets buried around the perimeter of the trench as insulated panels, filling the void space with paper waste from the print shop I work in, and sealing each individual pallet with a garbage bag. I have a feeling this would act as insulation from the ground freezing, lengthening the bed's growing season.<br /> <br /> -CK]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Feb 26 2012 21:31:08 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
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				<cite>Devon Olsen wrote:</cite>also, chris dean, hows your beds coming, anything growing up and out yet?<br /> </div>
		</blockquote><br /> I'm gone from home for a week and got someone to do some occasional watering, but when I left there were sprouts from the cover crop coming up.  Will get some pictures up of it when I get back!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Feb 26 2012 22:32:41 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[A couple of weeks after planting the green manure (oats, field pea, hairy vetch).  I know it's pretty early to say much about the bed yet, just wanted to show some green<img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />  I haven't watered this bed yet except a sprinkling when I planted them, but we've gotten about 1.5 inches of rain in the last 2 weeks.  Planning on this being a tomato bed this year.<br /> <img src="http://www.roughingitblog.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_1716.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> <img src="http://www.roughingitblog.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_1717.jpg" border="0" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 6 2012 21:17:58 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[VERY nice update man, thanks!<br /> it does look pretty good with some green though i still feel(not sure if i mentioned this before) that it may look better if there wasn't dirt/cob(if thats what that is) showing between the rock, if i were designing it for someone else or for a place that i may sell down the road i would probably avoid that myself, but its still works just as good i woud assume...]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 6 2012 21:33:17 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
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				<cite>Devon Olsen wrote:</cite>it may look better if there wasn't dirt/cob(if thats what that is) showing between the rock</div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> That's surprising!  My wife and I love the look of <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a>, and I actually got hired to build a taller bed made of rock and <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> for someone who saw this pic!  A good thing about the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> instead of cement is it will be cooler in the summer.<br /> <br /> To each his own <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 8 2012 21:12:02 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[interesting indeed!<br /> i definately wouldn't put cememnt between the rocks or anything... and it could be that <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> looks better than simply stacking the rocks when in person<br /> i do think that the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> would look amazing if your were near a pine forest or anything, if you were trying to give a straight natural look, i was thinking that in most suburban yards it may look better without the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> though, as cleaner looks prevail in these environments imo<br /> i am building one of these this summer with a large stump in the middle... we'll see what i decide to do with it<img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 8 2012 22:13:55 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Looks good, Chris.  Are those homemade "ollas" in the background?<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 08:26:08 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Tyler Ludens]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
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				<cite>Devon Olsen wrote:</cite>interesting indeed!<br /> i definately wouldn't put cememnt between the rocks or anything... and it could be that <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> looks better than simply stacking the rocks when in person<br /> i do think that the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> would look amazing if your were near a pine forest or anything, if you were trying to give a straight natural look, i was thinking that in most suburban yards it may look better without the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> though, as cleaner looks prevail in these environments imo<br /> i am building one of these this summer with a large stump in the middle... we'll see what i decide to do with it<img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" /></div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> Good point--and the person who is hiring me lives out in the country<img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />  I have seen these built without any kind of mortar at all though, just the rocks or bricks stacked.  Any kind of masonry bricks would look good in a suburban setting, and you could put them up in no time.<br /> <br /> @Tyler--Ollas indeed!  I made them last year but didn't get them in the ground, so this year I will hopefully get them in and experiment with them.  I procrastinate because of the holes that need to be dug<img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />  Have you had any experience with them?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 08:39:09 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I was going to make some but didn't get around to it, so, no I don't have any experiences (yet)  <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" /><br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 08:46:47 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Tyler Ludens]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[what are ollas?<br /> and yes digging, sucks<img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/sad.gif" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 10:06:55 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Neato thread... thanks for the original link and subsequent pics...<br /> <br /> If rocks are a pain to source, standard landscaping bricks (that overlap the back of each row below) would be very sturdy and seemingly perfect for something like this.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 10:50:48 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Matt Smith]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Good idea, Matt. I was thinking about doing something similar, as the hugelkultur I want to put in as soon as the ground is thawed requires me to dismantle an existing retaining wall. I am going to try to find such blocks out of landscapers' waste, but there I was thinking that if I couldn't find any, that I would likely just price the cost of stone from the quarry, specifically any stuff (cheapest possible, or ends) used for dry-fit installations. I don't have to worry about an HOA breathing down my neck, but I figure anyone who does can use that stuff. I last worked with some that I think was green slate (really pricey landscaping job where I was facing and dry-fitting a decorative face to a cinder-block raised bed and set of stairs set on the house foundation; not my design  <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/azn.gif" /> ). I'd go as cheap as possible, but if the wall was tied into the bed with brick ties or built so it corbels (I think that's the word) back row on top of row 1/8" to 1/4" depending on bed height, you could likely use tumbled pavers (much cheaper) or brick you salvage yourself, though depending on where it comes from, I would be wary of toxicity. I like the idea of using masonry to side the beds, as they should hold more heat longer than just dirt alone, and prevent unwanted erosion.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 11:19:08 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[For sure.<br /> <br /> I'm using those concrete landscaping blocks to create a low bed all around my house, and they end up with lots of little spaces and gaps... nice for little niches of "rock gardening" plants and for little critters to get in and out.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 11:37:59 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Matt Smith]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[That's just a darn good-looking bed, Chris. Nice work.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 11:50:59 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[David Goodman]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Yeah, Chris, I gotta say I like the look of that bed. I look forward to updates.<br /> <br /> -CK]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 11:55:52 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Ollas are unglazed clay pots which are sunk into a planting bed and then filled with water to efficiently irrigate with little evaporation.  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 11:59:47 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Tyler Ludens]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
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				<cite>Devon Olsen wrote:</cite>what are ollas?<br /> and yes digging, sucks<img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/sad.gif" /></div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> Check out <a class="snap_shots" href="http://threeforks.wordpress.com/2009/05/05/diy-terra-cotta-watering-system/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">this link</a> to see diy ollas that you don't have to dig such a deep hole for!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 9 2012 19:43:07 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[could we replace the centre with bamboo (pushed thru w pipe etc) or a PVC pipe w holes or drainage pipe w holes?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Mar 10 2012 00:32:54 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[cheng cai]]></author>
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				<cite>amarlover Hatfield wrote:</cite>could we replace the centre with bamboo (pushed thru w pipe etc) or a PVC pipe w holes or drainage pipe w holes?</div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> The center is meant to be a container for compost for earthworms and other organisms.  My understanding is you only want enough material encircling this part to keep it together while you're building the bed.  Once the bed is built the dirt surrounding the center will be its support.  I would stick to using only stuff that is <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/8652/permaculture/colorado-potato-beetles-vs-permaculture#78939" class="api" title="what is the difference between organic and permaculture?" target="_new">organic</a> matter--saplings wrapped around the center posts, jute twine, stuff like that which will break down and add nutrients to the bed.  <br /> <br /> I used cedar fenceposts to encircle it because they won't break down as quickly--I intend to connect some kind of arch from the edge of the bed to these posts to use as vining support to provide shade in the heat of the summer.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Mar 10 2012 14:40:51 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[thanks a lot. will try making one soon.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Mar 10 2012 23:43:13 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[cheng cai]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I love this hole idea, and your bed does look grate Chris. <br /> <br /> Just wondering though weather you could use the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> in the walls to grow more stuff, like strawberries? Mite help keep things even cooler as well.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Mar 11 2012 07:04:13 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Duncan Dalby]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Thanks Duncan! That's not a bad idea.  Strawberries here don't really grow past May though, so I may need to find something else.  Perhaps herbs, and wildflowers.  I would be really cool to fill it all up with seeds but I'd have to leave room for me to get in and lean on the wall to get to plants in the center.  I'll give it a try!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Mar 11 2012 09:17:00 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[how is your comin along Dave?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 22 2012 09:18:11 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[First time posting here so I hope I'm doing this right.<br /> <br /> This is a really interesting idea. I've been using hugelkultur beds for a few years now and I've also been experimenting with vericomposting trenches as well. This seems like a great way to combine to two. In winter, you could insulate the whole thing with straw or something similar and allow the worms to overwinter. I think I'm going to build something like this. I love gardening experiments!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 12 2012 00:06:26 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jen Colorado]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Welcome to the forums Jen!<br /> and that sounds like an awesome experiment, let us know how it goes and take plenty of pics when you do<img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 12 2012 17:16:10 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Here's the update for this African keyhole bed.  I have 6 very happy <a href="http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/list/3904#53101" class="api" title="raising tomatoes without irrigation" target="_new">tomatoes</a> in it, a squash with too much shade that's still doing well, and potatoes and sweet potatoes coming up from leftovers in the center composting area.  On the south side I also have basil and oregano.<br /> <br /> <b>Some things I've learned</b><br /> 1. I should have faced the keyhole part to the south to maximize sun for everybody.  This wasn't a dealbreaker though because everything seems quite content and is growing quickly.<br /> 2. This is a glorified, round hugelkultur.  I'm not sure that the compost in the center is really that big a deal--this is producing as well as my other hugel beds.<br /> 3. Aesthetically, these are really nice.  Still I prefer long raised beds.  These are a lot of work and you can only make them so big because you need to be able to reach into the middle.  I am building one more because I can't fit a long bed in one place in the yard.  These would be nice for urban gardens where you care about what the yard looks like (we live out in the country).  I threw ours together but it can be made a little more attractive quite easily.<br /> <br /> The wood I used in the bottom had been buried for a year and then was dug up to put into this bed, so this may not be typical of a first year with fresh wood.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 26 2012 11:08:08 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[mix in thyme seeds in the dirt on the walls, and will help keep it cool,and hold dirt together.<br /> <br /> or if using cobb, make it a chia pet !]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 26 2012 13:44:54 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[awesome pics chris, thanks for the update, i still havent put in the beds i was planning to do on this property, other things have been keeping me pretty busy...]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 28 2012 14:08:52 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I like it very much!  <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" /><br />  <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 28 2012 14:22:55 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Tyler Ludens]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Like that design of yours. <br /> I'm looking to put keyholes in different areas of my yard. Being in central Texas in a perpetual drought with 100 degree temps, am looking to put some keyholes underneath some crepe myrtles near my shop (where they will provide some partial shade certain times during the day). Have enough rocks around to provide the border, and want to plant butternut squash, malabar spinach (is in the bed to the left now, so will have to re-transplant). Malabar spinach is great for our climate, and grows pretty steadily as a vine. May put in some thyme along the rocks as someone mentioned. May add some beans to promote nitrogen. Oh course will be adding tree limbs, <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/2157/permaculture/concerns-cardboard-newspaper-as-mulch" class="api" title="concerns with using carboard for mulch" target="_new">cardboard</a> and such. <br /> <br /> Any ideas for other edibles that could grow well in our area in a keyhole would be welcome. <br /> May even try some asparagus and other perennials. <br /> Other spot is by my shop where I'm thinking of putting a rectangle shaped keyhole-ish bed or a wicking bed.<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Aug 11 2012 14:07:11 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Cal Burns]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Awesome Cal! I didn't know malabar was a vine...I'll have to try that.<br /> <br /> My <a href="http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/list/3904#53101" class="api" title="raising tomatoes without irrigation" target="_new">tomatoes</a> are producing well in my keyhole. They do look very very sad because of the heat, but I think some partial shading would help that (thinking about building something over the bed for vines next year). With the <a href="http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/list/3904#53101" class="api" title="raising tomatoes without irrigation" target="_new">tomatoes</a> I have basil and Mexican oregano, both happy.<br /> <br /> Do remember regarding our "perpetual drought"--very wet years are possible. Where I am we had 40 inches about 5 years ago, and then of course 10 last year. Just be careful that you don't over accomodate for dry spells so that plants suffer in the wet years.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Aug 11 2012 15:58:41 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
			<div>
				<cite>Chris Dean wrote:</cite>Here's the update for this African keyhole bed.  I have 6 very happy <a href="http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/list/3904#53101" class="api" title="raising tomatoes without irrigation" target="_new">tomatoes</a> in it, a squash with too much shade that's still doing well, and potatoes and sweet potatoes coming up from leftovers in the center composting area.  On the south side I also have basil and oregano.<br /> <br /> <b>Some things I've learned</b><br /> 1. I should have faced the keyhole part to the south to maximize sun for everybody.  This wasn't a dealbreaker though because everything seems quite content and is growing quickly.<br /> 2. This is a glorified, round hugelkultur.  I'm not sure that the compost in the center is really that big a deal--this is producing as well as my other hugel beds.<br /> 3. Aesthetically, these are really nice.  Still I prefer long raised beds.  These are a lot of work and you can only make them so big because you need to be able to reach into the middle.  I am building one more because I can't fit a long bed in one place in the yard.  These would be nice for urban gardens where you care about what the yard looks like (we live out in the country).  I threw ours together but it can be made a little more attractive quite easily.<br /> <br /> The wood I used in the bottom had been buried for a year and then was dug up to put into this bed, so this may not be typical of a first year with fresh wood.</div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> Beautiful keyhole garden.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Aug 11 2012 16:29:53 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[maikeru sumi-e]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I saw the videos on this a couple of years ago, and decided to try it. I don't know why, but the method didn't work for me. The compost basket was too small and dried out totally, so no composting took place, and the sloping soil wouldn't soak in any moisture, so all the water I added, whether in the compost circle or by spraying the soil, just ran off, and nothing grew except my chives and parsley at the bottom of the slope. So last year I pulled out the compost circle and leveled off the soil, and was able to get a fairly good crop of greens (mostly chard and kale), though my carrots never did much growing.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Feb 27 2013 13:29:49 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[dj niels]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[hey dj,<br /> <br /> I find that some climates benefit from design tweaking. I'm a big fan of those small unfired clay jugs that you bury up to the necks in your bed or garden or planter/pot whatever. You water the jug, and everything else if it's that dry, and the clay releases moisture through the sides of the jug to hydrate the surrounding soil as it dries, a low-tech time-release capsule. <br /> If you can commit to keeping it moist enough, I would make sure you have enough worms in your soil. They do well to condition it so that it holds more moisture.<br /> <br /> Even with the increase of moisture in recent years, we do end up with three months with very little rain in the summer, so I do deal with the same issue. <br /> <br /> I am using 2'x3.5' skids to make my beds this year. I will get up pics of last year's remnants that I will incorporate into the new one, and post pics of during and after as well as soon as it thaws enough to break ground.<br /> <br /> -CK]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Feb 27 2013 14:12:00 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Just wanted to add that when I stacked flat sandstone into retaining walls the bees loved to live in the cracks between the rocks. So you don't have to fill all of the spaces up, make homes for the bees!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Feb 27 2013 23:06:21 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Miles Flansburg]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Chris, thanks for the suggestions. I did try in some of my garden beds to use 2l bottles to add water, but still had to fill them at least once a day, and they were only good for one plant. So it worked ok to do that for a larger plant like a squash, but a little harder for small plants like chard etc that I need many plants to make a green smoothy, or salad, or other uses on a daily basis.<br /> <br /> I have looked at the idea of the clay water things, but never felt I could spend the money it would take to put one every foot or two in the beds to try to keep the beds moist enough. (It really dries out  fast here--the soil can feel moist at 7 am and be dry as a bone by noon! And raised beds are the worst for this, so now I am focusing on putting in sunken beds. A little harder to work around, but at least the soil and mulch stay put.<br /> <br /> I have tried mulching my raised beds, only to see all the mulch blow away in the next wind event. I did succeed in holding mulch on one bed, last year, by covering the mulch with a layer of sticks--but by the time the corn got big enough to hold the mulch, the sticks were so entertwined that I couldn't pull them out until after the corn harvest. So I am still looking for answers and trying new things all the time.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Feb 28 2013 08:47:39 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[dj niels]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[This is one of ours surrounded by tree roots dug up by the pigs. It's about four years old now and I only have to water when I plant :<br /> <br /> <img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2239/3537400064_fb40a38026_z.jpg?zz=1" border="0" /><br /> <br /> This is an other one which I'll plant up this year : <br /> <br /> <img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5149/5685293654_2726057f09_z.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Feb 28 2013 09:13:57 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Irene Kightley]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[i really love the first pic Irene, are those roots used as the border?<br /> absolutely beautiful to me, would love to do something like that in a yard/property a little out of the way - might not look too great in town but not like that matters to me if im not living in town, just awesome work though<br /> <br /> the second one i bet will look good if you have some plants using it as a <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/761/organic/Simple-trellis-green-beans" class="api" title="green bean trellis thread" target="_new">trellis</a>, greenery contrasted with weaved wood like that would look cool i think]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Feb 28 2013 20:04:17 MST]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I was falling asleep last night and had a flash about a full sized hugelkultur design that I'm supposed to present for a community initiative...<br /> <br /> The shape of the bed increases edge (due to the wings / spokes) and it will hopefully act as a <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/2376/homestead/keeping-deer-out-your-stuff" class="api" title="keeping deer out of your stuff" target="_new">deer</a> deterrent too, as they don't like grazing in places where their vision is obscured like it is here.<br /> <br /> The bed is hopefully going to be built in Northern Canada so I've shaped it like this to create micro climates (the biggest in the middle obviously).<br /> <br /> Thoughts?<br /> <br /> p.s. excuse my total lack of artistic talent <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Mar 11 2013 18:24:29 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nick Kitchener]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[i realy like it, and i think youll find that you capture more snowfall with that design than if it didnt have the spokes, something that can add up to a significant difference in moisture content of the soil]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Mar 11 2013 18:29:24 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I like it too. Keyholes within the horse shoe shelter. I'm afraid it would dry out too much in my climate, but might be worth a try anyway. Thanks for sharing that. I just looked at your drawing again. I really do like it. However, I wonder if it might work better, in a northern area, if the opening is to the south, to form a suntrap and warmer microclimate in the center.<br /> <br /> I keep waking up with ideas, too. One idea I have had recently is to make a swale, on contour, and then, just below the swale, make some u-shaped berms, like scallops on a piece of lace. I would scoop out the center of each berm, to make the berm higher, and fill in the center with wood to form a woody terrace. I figure if I plant one fruit tree, with associated guild plants, on each terrace, the swale above and the terrace and berm could help to collect and hold water for the plants.<br /> <br /> This idea came, I think, from noticing that scooped out depressions along the highway seem to hold the snow longer and collect rain, and are actually supporting <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/9758/woodland/man-planted-trees" class="api" title="watch The Man Who Planted Trees" target="_new">trees</a>, in a barren landscape that is mostly desert scrub and thinly scattered bunch grass otherwise.<br /> <br /> Spring is coming! We have been experiencing a bit warmer weather for several days, so the snow is starting to melt. I still have 1 to 2 feet of snow on most of my garden, but several spots where I had piled up sand or formed berms, or where we shoveled paths, are clear now. Yea.<br /> <br />  As part of my site analysis, I am watching to see where the snow melts first. So now, after what I am seeing, I have decided to build some higher berms, and add OM on the south facing slopes, to give an area that will hopefully warm up and start growing a bit sooner.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Mar 11 2013 19:23:34 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[dj niels]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I remember Sepp talking about facing beds toward the NorthWest in cold climates so that the plants have a chance to warm up / defrost before the sun hits them.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Mar 11 2013 19:57:16 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nick Kitchener]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[well sepp has more xperience than myself, but i'd say the more sun you can get the better... and plant tougher plants to compensate i guess...]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Mar 11 2013 20:14:39 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Devon Olsen]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Chia <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/11108/cob/Cob-Cottage-video-series" class="api" title="cob cottage video series" target="_new">cob</a> pets?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 12 2013 10:42:26 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Miles Flansburg]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Hey, there could be a market for Paul Wheaton chia pets <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 12 2013 11:10:51 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nick Kitchener]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I guess the direction of the opening would depend on how far north. In my area, the sun comes up straight east, or even northeast, except in midwinter, when it is too cold to have anything growing outside anyway. By the time the sun gets up high enough to shine over a large berm, the air is warm enough that the plants have already thawed out. But the sun coming into a southfacing keyhole would help warm up the inside of the keyhole bed, in my experience.  Our worst winds blow from the west, so a keyhole opening to the west would just let it blow in and freeze or dry out all the plants inside the keyhole, I think.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 12 2013 15:26:36 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[dj niels]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[OK,<br /> <br /> I got the go ahead to place one of these on the church grounds to grow food as a community service (we'll give the food to the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/3679/farm-income/local-vs-organic" class="api" title="local vs. organic" target="_new">local</a> food banks, etc) <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" /><br /> <br /> All I need to do is find a source of wood, soil, and earth moving equipment for free.<br /> <br /> Any ideas?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 12:50:48 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nick Kitchener]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
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				<cite>Irene Kightley wrote:</cite>This is one of ours surrounded by tree roots dug up by the pigs. It's about four years old now and I only have to water when I plant :<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> This is an other one which I'll plant up this year : <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> </div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> Interesting, Irene- the first bed combines hugelkultur with stumpery design- fun <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/smiley.gif" /> I'm having some fun going through your blog and flickr pics ..]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 13:27:44 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Cohan Fulford]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Nick, where are you situated? If I was doing what you are where I am, I'd be calling arbourists (I don't know what else you'd call tree people) for wood chips (preferably only chips from branches less than 3" in diameter, more inner bark, with its starches and minerals in plant food form, resulting in less need for nitrogen to break down and less to no nitrogen draw-down) and the larger logs (much more harder-to-digest lignin). I've been reading recently that if you use chips that are primarily inner bark (they call these smaller branches ramial wood), you can easily manage a 50/50 soil/chip mix with no major issues (although I have heard a lot about the judicious application of LHF (liquid human fertilizer, or <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/6191/permaculture/best-urine-winter" class="api" title="how to best use urine in the winter" target="_new">urine</a>) at need, with blood meal being a close second in places where disposing of conspicuous jugs of yellow liquid might prove problematic. If you have the leisure of time, I suppose you could use a ground-cover that was comprised of mainly nitrogen-fixers and bioaccumulators with deep or extensive (or both) root systems.<br /> <br /> What are you planning on planting?<br /> <br /> -CK]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 16:50:45 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[The comments on inner bark are interesting- we cut up a lot of deadwood for firewood, leaving us some sawdust, of course, but also lots of bark bits of branches etc, plus there is a lot more of that sort of material available to me in the bush, so I've been thinking of ways to use it.. even mulch, maybe? ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 17:19:16 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Cohan Fulford]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Especially mulch, in my opinion. I am not 100% guaranteeing that digging in 50% ramial wood chips will work in all cases without needing fertilizer, and I am not positive how much inner bark makes up the outer barky bits you describe, but you run much less risk of killing things in the worst of circumstances if they sit on top and only decompose as they come in contact with the soil, and as microbes and soil critters migrate to them. All my observations are anecdotal, and after the fact, I might add (when I try to figure out why my chard is so freaking huge, or why everything in one corner of my hugelbeet up and died and started hosting some nasty yellow amorphous fungus). If you are giving it some time to establish itself, just seed with a soil-building and conditioning mix and chop and drop, and if you need results pronto, make sure you have lots of <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/8652/permaculture/colorado-potato-beetles-vs-permaculture#78939" class="api" title="what is the difference between organic and permaculture?" target="_new">organic</a> nitrogen to add.<br /> <br /> -CK]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 18:41:28 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[Thanks, Chris, for the thoughts. Worry not! If I kill some potatoes I will not blame you <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/wink.gif" /> I'm more likely to keep that sort of material as mulch/pathway coverings etc, or at the layer immediately on top of wood, rather than mixing it into the main rooting zone anyway.<br /> Seems like it might be a good idea to get some rotted manure from my neighbours anyway for the first year or two. I don't mind doing some setup of beds that could take a couple of years to mature, but I do want some immediate gratification areas for annual vegetables...]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 18:58:22 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Cohan Fulford]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I would seriously suggest experimentation with the specific material you're working with, especially growing potatoes, as you will be disturbing the soil anyway at harvest, and it will give you a chance to examine what's going on at the root levels under different conditions.<br /> <br /> -CK]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 19:22:20 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I will try a few things and see what works/where. I could probably get some old hay from neighbours also, as mulch, but I feel we have more than enough good rodent habitat as it is..   <img src="http://cache-www.permies.com/images/smilies/grin.gif" />  Also a fair bit of leaves and some longer grass that can be raked, so I should find lots of stuff, plus grass clippings in summer.<br /> I have some piles of barkey stuff that has sat for a couple of years, so there is some good black stuff in there, still lots of unbroken down woody bits too, though...<br /> Here's one of the areas I'm planning to do something:<br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.permies.com/t/22904/forest-garden/Project-Existing-Open-Woodland-Alberta" target="_blank" >http://www.permies.com/t/22904/forest-garden/Project-Existing-Open-Woodland-Alberta</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 19:38:33 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Cohan Fulford]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[It depends on how much room you've been allocated, but when you have something established, have you thought about getting a donation and education drive going? You could tell people how it works, and how its better than just sticking seeds in the ground, and could then solicit them for old hay (which is gold) and other <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/8652/permaculture/colorado-potato-beetles-vs-permaculture#78939" class="api" title="what is the difference between organic and permaculture?" target="_new">organic</a> input. If its something that you think would work, you could turn the whole hugelbeet into an opportunistic vermiculture operation. All you would have to do would be design for a couple or more tubes of some sort (I like square towers built of crossing pairs of branch sections, or unfired clay tubes) to provide chutes for your donated kitchen scraps and some of those wood chips that go right to the heart of the pile, and puts the resultant worm castings right in the root zone. The worms will just migrate to the fresh food. You could even sneak some BSFL into one of the tubes. While worms generally don't like the enzymes related to the presence of the actual larvae, they love larvae leavings. It's like prepping your worm <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/997/chickens/best-perennial-chicken-feed" class="api" title="the best perennial chicken feed" target="_new">feed</a>.<br /> <br /> Don't know how far you'll be willing or allowed to go, but good luck.<br /> <br /> -CK]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 21 2013 21:13:47 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Kott]]></author>
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				<description><![CDATA[I'm surrounded by farms, almost all of which have a surplus of hay, so if I decide to brave the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/125/critter-care/catch-mouse-without-mousetrap" class="api" title="how to catch a mouse without a mousetrap" target="_new">mouse</a> explosion , it would be no problem getting some. (there are already lots of <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/125/critter-care/catch-mouse-without-mousetrap" class="api" title="how to catch a mouse without a mousetrap" target="_new">mice</a> and <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/53/critter-care/Voles-Moles-rid-them" class="api" title="how to get rid of moles and voles" target="_new">voles</a>, the hay would give them excellent shelter; we have one part-time outdoor cat, but he is too busy patrolling the property for the neighbour's cats to hunt much anymore..lol..this is very dangerous country for cats, so I will absolutely not be getting any more outdoor cats)<br /> The worm tube idea is interesting, something I will need to look into more..]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 22 2013 11:37:15 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Cohan Fulford]]></author>
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				<cite>Chris Kott wrote:</cite>Nick, where are you situated? If I was doing what you are where I am, I'd be calling arbourists (I don't know what else you'd call tree people) for wood chips (preferably only chips from branches less than 3" in diameter, more inner bark, with its starches and minerals in plant food form, resulting in less need for nitrogen to break down and less to no nitrogen draw-down) and the larger logs (much more harder-to-digest lignin). I've been reading recently that if you use chips that are primarily inner bark (they call these smaller branches ramial wood), you can easily manage a 50/50 soil/chip mix with no major issues (although I have heard a lot about the judicious application of LHF (liquid human fertilizer, or <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/6191/permaculture/best-urine-winter" class="api" title="how to best use urine in the winter" target="_new">urine</a>) at need, with blood meal being a close second in places where disposing of conspicuous jugs of yellow liquid might prove problematic. If you have the leisure of time, I suppose you could use a ground-cover that was comprised of mainly nitrogen-fixers and bioaccumulators with deep or extensive (or both) root systems.<br /> <br /> What are you planning on planting?<br /> <br /> -CK</div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> I'm located in Thunder Bay, Ontario.<br /> <br /> I've heard Paul Wheaton go on and on about hugel beds made from wood chips providing the perfect mega farm for pill bugs. I'm planning on doing it with solid wood logs. By the time I practically get this bed constructed, it'll be too late in this growing season so Nitrogen draw down is not a huge deal. I'm planning on planting a lot of legumes in the mound as well.<br /> <br /> There's a new sub division going in nearby this summer and they'll be bulldozing mature forest for this so getting some wood might not be too problematic. I'll need to find out what they do with the excess soil too come to think of it...<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 22 2013 12:19:47 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nick Kitchener]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Just a thought Nick, if you thought to optimize sunlight perhaps opening up one side more than this original  design to orient the interior to the southern sunlight might be advantageous ?   <br /> A plan for further future development of a domed green house in the middle would be pretty sweet    : ) <br /> <br /> Also I  responded to your thread on seed sources for your project here     <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/reply/0/22309" target="_blank" >http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/reply/0/22309</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 22 2013 22:09:03 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Lisa Paulson]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Has anyone thought of doing this using a slightly larger hollow central core for composting <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a> directly?  As long as the bed contains the right plants and is stacked stone/urbanite, the emptied <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a> is covered with cover material...could this work?  A high surrounding bed would hide the central tube contents and keep the high nitrogen bottom material from burning roots, while providing airflow to the bed.  Any ideas?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Mar 23 2013 13:01:42 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jennifer Jennings]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
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				<cite>Jennifer Jennings wrote:</cite>Has anyone thought of doing this using a slightly larger hollow central core for composting <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a> directly?  As long as the bed contains the right plants and is stacked stone/urbanite, the emptied <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a> is covered with cover material...could this work?  A high surrounding bed would hide the central tube contents and keep the high nitrogen bottom material from burning roots, while providing airflow to the bed.  Any ideas?</div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> <font color='blue'>That's kinda the direction that I have been planning, but not with direct <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a>. I really think, you want at least 1 year composted and I, myself, will take it a bit further and Bokashi process, before composting. Making the keyhole concept larger, utilizing the keyhole design as a single part and multiplying into full or partial mandala(s). Plenty of wood in the bottom, lasagna-layering with composted <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a> & vermicompost, urine/LAB innoculated bio-char and a good concentration of Forest Bacteria & Fungi, chop & drop and soil. I think, the size of the central keyhole feeding core would somewhere between 24-30", maybe it could be dual-chambered, so the inside tube/chamber could accept the <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a>, outer tube/sleeve would be for Bokashi, compost, whatever... </font>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Mar 23 2013 14:14:58 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Ollie Puddlemaker]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[You got me thinking on that, Ollie... maybe the outside ring could be as simple as dry cover material (wood chips, ground paper, straw, whatnot), and the inner core fresh <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a>.  The outer core could prevent leaching in a heavy rain, and with a lid on the central core, I doubt you'd get much leaching at all.  Throw some red worms in there and it may be all good - and no need to have composting piles, which would remove one more step in the process.  Am I wrong in my thinking, anyone?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Mar 24 2013 09:31:10 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jennifer Jennings]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Jennifer, that is an interesting idea. It does seem, though, that at least two such areas would be needed, so one pile could rot down while the other was being added to. I have done <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a> composting, using bales of straw or old hay around the piles, to help insulate from the winter cold and absorb any run-off moisture. These curved mounds would also require a lot more space to work around them, I think.<br /> <br /> Nick, the more I think about it, the more I like your design. A few weeks ago I actually started drawing out a similar curved berm design to protect a winter chicken coop from cold winds and, with boards and clear or opaque fiberglass panels,from the roof of the coop to the top of the berm, create a "greenhouse" of sorts for a winter chicken forage yard. (My 'girls' were forced to spend the last 3 or 4 months cooped up in our sunken <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/2098/permaculture/greenhouse-suck-factor" class="api" title="greenhouse suck factor" target="_new">greenhouse</a> when the snow got so deep it covered up their access door. Now the snow is gone and they are enjoying the freedom of their fenced run again. But I am trying to plan something better to be ready for the next winter.)]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Mar 25 2013 08:39:37 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[dj niels]]></author>
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				<title>Interesting keyhole/hugelkultur design</title>
				<description><![CDATA[One way around the space issue, DJ, might be to change the shape of the central core to more of a curvilinear shape, like a "C" that would line the inside of the keyhole.  It would allow you to space out the composting piles, still leave air access, but not be so bulky.  Compost, even <a href="http://www.permies.com/t/5942//Humanure" class="api" title="humanure thread" target="_new">humanure</a>, does flatten out and compress rather quickly - even more so when the worms get in there - so I don't know that the core really has to be that big, especially if you have several of these beds to space out your compost deposits.<br /> <br /> Your curved berm chicken run sounds really interesting - please post pics of the sketches!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 26 2013 09:35:32 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jennifer Jennings]]></author>
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