http://www.permies.com/forums/forums/f-5/green-building JForum - http://www.jforum.net Spring hiring slowed in March jobs re-port.



Goals high



Officials and analysts had predicted a fairly strong spring for hiring, as more companies select up additional people before the summer season. Recent joblessness reports had shown promise, according to Bloomberg. Initial jobless claims fell by 5,000 to 359,000 in the week ending March 24, the lowest number observed since April 2008.



[One can always get a paydayloan in tough times]



March was anticipated to a month full of extra employees being hired on since the last three months have shown payroll increases and the unemployment rate has been decreasing. It was anticipated that there would be a total of 215,000 jobs added: 5,000 from the public sector and 210,000 from the private sector, according to USA Today.



Many feel disappointed



Unfortunately, the Labor Department careers report for March yielded much lower additions to the payroll than were expected. The Bureau of Labor Statistics disclosed that only 120,000 jobs had been added to payrolls for the month, about half the number anticipated.



It seems that the joblessness rate drop from 8.3 percent to 8.2 percent was from people quitting work entirely as opposed to added jobs, according to CNN, which is an enormous disappointment also. There was a 7,500 decrease in the amount of temporary workers, according to USA Today.



There were a ton of cuts in careers in the private sector in construction and retail. There were 34,000 careers lost in retail and 7,000 lost in construction, which is an enormous problem.



May be good



Though the March jobs report seems dismal, employers have added 858,000 careers in the past four months.



Another promising sign, according to CNN, is that the underemployment rate, or the number of people who are not working to their full capacity, dropped from 14.9 percent in Feb. to 14.5 percent in March, down from the high point in Nov. 2009, when it reached 17.2 percent. An estimated 7.6 million people are still considered underemployed.



Also, the unemployment rate is nearer to 8 percent than 9 percent. In August of 2011, according to Reuters, the joblessness rate was 9.1 percent.



The forecasts for the rest of the year are looking really good. For instance, USA Today explained that economists are expecting unemployment to reach below 8 percent for the rest of the year. Employers are anticipated to add more positions to the payroll, making hiring slow but steady for the rest of the year too.



Sources



USA Today

CNN

Bloomberg

Reuters: http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/04/06/us-usa-economy-idUSBRE83503K20120406

Time: http://business.time.com/2012/04/06/u-s-economy-added-120000-jobs-in-march-missing-estimates/
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14689/130570 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14689/130570 Delta Solutions.



]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14687/130554 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14687/130554 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FtQdiOMp8c&feature=plcp]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14685/130539 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14685/130539 http://www.ferrocement.com/Compost_Toilet/compost-toilet-elements.en.html]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14670/130441 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14670/130441
http://www.ferrocement.com/Shelter-2010/post-1_5-2010.html]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14669/130439 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14669/130439
I live in the Greenville/Spartanburg area of South Carolina but willing to travel as far as a 1-2 hours away.

Thanks, and I love this forum btw]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14645/130256 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14645/130256 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14634/130149 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14634/130149 I have a question about installing a wood stove. I installed one in my cabin so I know how to do it in a regular roof - my question is if it is the same for underground? It would mean that my spiffy double walled pipe was surrounded by earth for a foot or two. I can see that it might not rust, but wouldn't it be bad for the pipes to be underground? not like I could poly hot pipes...anyone have any thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Meagan]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14633/130145 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14633/130145
I know you permies are smart!

,Kriev]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14586/129682 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14586/129682 Last week, I finished the best run of house moving work that I've had in three years. I used to do quite a bit of this but then work dried up to a trickle in the fall of 2009. Two months ago I did a little work cleaning up the big yard that contains the office and house storage yard so that it could be sold or leased out. This seemed like it could be the end of it. The change was part of a consolidation plan that moved operations to Nanaimo, a city 65 miles north west and the second largest city on Vancouver Island. --- Then the news came that two big jobs that were pending,had been approved. The next 5 weeks would be ultra busy. My land is about 8 miles from this new center of operations. So. it's likely that we will still do some business in the future.

The first building is the house which stars in this thread. The second one is the Crossroads Pub in Colwood, which lies about 6.5 miles from downtown Victoria. The pub move will be documented in a separate thread.

The Photos ---

1.This house lies just across the road from the ocean, just a kilometer from the big cruise ship terminal. It's about 40 ft. long and 35 ft tall. Much too large to travel far by road, it is being moved by barge, about 150 miles north/west to the small coastal town of Royston. The new site is one block in from the water. The upper floor will enjoy ocean views. In the future when the cavernous attic space is developed complete with dormers and decks, the home will be far grander than it ever was in the past.

2. This is the view from the upper deck. The barge site is about 20 houses down the road, just before the breakwater.

3. It's a monster. It started out as a single family home but was converted to a four-plex in 1917. 95 years as a rental hasn't done too much harm.

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14581/129657 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14581/129657 I would like to insulate under the house, even if it is just the plumbing itself using recycled and/or sustainable materials.
Any suggestions on how this may be done would be appreciated, particularly if you have done it already and can add some experiences.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14573/129595 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14573/129595 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14555/129464 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14555/129464 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14554/129463 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14554/129463
I have reduced my propane use to almost nothing with a wood stove and I use passive solar and a 580 watt solar electric and 400 watt wind turbine system for power. I own a small business and online business so having internet and cell phone was important and pays for itself. I grow a garden, raise chickens and rabbits, and fish for much of my food needs and i am planning on raising a cash crop of sweet corn and raspberries to further reduce any need for money in my life.

If you are interested in the cabin design and my off-grid systems you can see my vids on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/solarcabin

I hope to make some friends and share some ideas!

LaMar]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14546/129422 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14546/129422 Futurebiotics White Kidney Beans Extract:- Buy Futurebiotics White Kidney Beans Extract 500mg 100 cap by Futurebiotics. Discount White Kidney Bean Extract . We have carry wide selection of Futurebiotics products. SameDay & Free Shipping at $79.99.

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14516/129193 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14516/129193 The Myth that Sex on Tuesdays Is Harmful: http://tiny.cc/b6h8bw]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14489/129047 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14489/129047
Also, just for the sake of interest, let's say a 4-person family had no access to other water sources, how much more water would be needed for them?]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14485/129029 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14485/129029




The graphic above gives a visual representation of my idea for adding insulation but ignore dimensions, I got the images from Google images.

Originally my idea was to develop some method of insulation using cellulose from straw bales but a MAJOR design challenge was potential deterioration of the cellulose due to the tendency to develop water buildup. Also I wanted to be able to develop a method to insulate the bottom of the biodigestor to restrict heat dissipation which would be near impossible with straw bales.

This is where I looked into the potential of using compacted biochar as a possible insulator. This also follows my initiative of using sustainable and cheap materials. I do not know the insulation value of compressed biochar but theoretically I can use this material because it does not degrade (as far as I understand) under conditions natural to water saturated environments. It is a flammable material when aerated under oxygen rich environments with excessive heat but otherwise from my understanding it is not thermally conductive and it is relatively inert for building purposes.

Constructing a thermal shell surrounding the biodigestor would facilitate economical production of methane gas during the winter which in turn a portion of the methane can be used to reintroduce thermal energy back into the reactor facilitating a controlled environment to maximize methane production during winter. Further to add compressed biochar can be stabilized to form a structural material. The thickness of the wall is dependent on the insulation properties of compressed biochar which I do not have, any references to density and insulation would be appreciated.

Well, there is my idea in a nutshell, feel free to add comments, suggestions and any other incite. The idea of using insulation in biodigestors is not new but the application of biochar as a subterranean thermal insulator is. As far as I know this is an original idea as I have not seen any other designs similiar to this.
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14454/128727 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14454/128727
We have one that is started (we have the outer tire walls done), but are out of money to complete it.

It was really frustrating to see how slowly it was progressing while we were still trying on it.

It is also hard to imagine being happy in a home that is so far away from town ... although the nearly 10 acres and year around growing that is possible here in Florida leaves lots of possibility for Permaculture on quite a large scale.

It was hard listening to Paul's rambling podcast where he talked about needing land -- a large amount of it -- and having a hard time finding anything suitable in Missoula. It was hard not to have a flight of fancy where the wish for land and the wish for something nice to come out of the Earthship project to come together and solve both issues all at once. Finish the Earthship somehow and give Paul a showcase for his ideas in Central Florida.

It certainly is a pipe dream, and working out the legal mumbo jumbo that would go along with that is over my head. It is too much to ask, but not too much to wish to be true.

But it does touch at a spot that I've tried to forget about as the project remains on hold and my husband tries to find a buyer of it.

Sorry for the rambling post. It needs as much courage as I have to admit to these thoughts in this manner. I don't know if I will have the courage to look at the responses -- that is often tough for me to do.

It is a tough situation just now that could use funds and project manager and courage to keep on trying now that things are really tough and the dream of a real live earth-friendly home on a permacultured land seems to have been only a mirage.

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14444/128591 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14444/128591 lightbulb vendor)? Have you been able to grow a garden with artificial light? What are some ways I can get around this dilemma?

Trying to find ways to make the most out of green living and gardening :P ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14408/128309 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14408/128309 http://www.partonbarksiding.com/



They claim it lasts 50+ years.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14375/128065 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14375/128065
We're in Portugal getting slowly setup, sorted and learning.

At the moment I'm dreaming of a Simon Dale-esque roundwood framed, earth sheltered house and I'm wondering about the possibility of using eucalyptus to build with (our location in Central Portugal is covered in the stuff). Does anyone know if eucalyptus is viable for something like this? I'm having trouble finding the info.

Thanks

Andy]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14348/127811 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14348/127811
Last week he offered to display some of my choice slabs for sale in his yard. The photos below represent a fraction of the bounty that I intend to extract from the mill.

I asked if his wife would have a problem with this. He just smiled and said, "she knows me by now" which I took to mean that the state of the yard is not her business .

Wood from my demolitions has heated Felix's home for years. At one time we aquired a pile of nailey wood which filled his driveway 8 feet deep and 40 ft. long. He was in heaven. Two years later this unsightly stack is about 3/4 gone.

Felix is a lawyer. He lives in an area where home values average $900 000.00, so wood hounds are rare in this neighborhood. He gets away with it because everybody likes him. If he hears that a neighbor is conducting home repairs,he insists that they check out his glorious heap before going to a store.

This tendency toward generosity worried me a little, but he has promised to not give any of mine away. His word is gold, unusual in his profession.

Several of his clients have toured the yard. Slab benches and window seats are envisioned by some. I'm confident that sales will result. The boundary fence is badly rotted. We're building a new one which allows slabs to be rotated as they sell. A display rack/fence. Felix sees has yard as a natural gallery. The scene will change as time goes by. Everybody wins.

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14305/127487 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14305/127487
Well, spent the weekend working on building one--sorry no pictures--and I have to say it seems a bit more trouble then it's worth.

In theory it does work, and I was able to compress a few bricks, but there are some major problems, mostly with extracting the block after compression. I also may have not had enough moisture in the mix, which caused the edges to be crumply. I should have tested a few more, but my main conclusion to abandon the design, was how long it takes to create a block. I think that efficiency should be just as important as cost when coming up with designs. Often, as is the case with the $30 CEB Press design on this forum, too much emphasis is placed on cost.

Cost is important, but should be in balance with the speed of production. That is why I think that the CEB machines, which spit out so many bricks per minute, stands on the other extreme, not only costing more, but the actual compressing of the blocks is the easy part, the time to get the soil ready is what takes time. The manual CIVNA Ram is a great design because it can be quickly filled, compressed, and extracted. But the problem with its design is it costs too much, and takes proper equipment to cut the metal, weld it together, ect.

That is why wood would be the best balance, since most of us can work with it without serious tools. There must be a way to design a wooden CEB press that is just as efficient and strong as the metal ones.

Anyone else up to design one? If so, let there be commerce between us.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14222/126866 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14222/126866
http://www.globalroofing.com.au/
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14195/126731 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14195/126731
I won’t pretend that my tastes lie within obscure, abstract and “experimental” fare such as the much maligned “Dinner Date”,BAS gold or lament the failure of any number of the zillion indie games that come and go over a given month. What I do think, however, is that companies with the funding and ability to develop complex gaming experiences should stop producing the exact same thing as everyone else.

There is nothing intrinsically wrong with TERA at all. It has all the branding and gloss of a well produced MMO, and it’s obvious that the art team went completely gangbusters when they put everything together. The same goes for the rest of the development - the game runs well, looks stellar, and includes pretty much all of the standard features you would expect in this day and age.

The problem here is that the formula - the static script to follow when you are putting together an MMO these days - has not evolved as much as it has regressed. Developers now cannot be bothered to fundamentally change how their game plays, but to put focus on a particular element is different and thus expect that players will find that to be enough to sustain them for the next 3 years.

RIFT had invasions, AION had flying, Star Trek Online had incursions. All of these games barely got out of the gate before the player base deserted them. TERA is no different: lauding their combat system as a revolution in play while making absolutely no attempt to address any of the fundamental problems with the MMO script, and hoping that punters will find that enough of a draw in an already congested market.

Has no one yet learned any lessons from the events of the past five years? RS gold Einstein famously defined insanity as “doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results”. But MMO makers seem to avoid reinventing the wheel because the risk is too high. This is, by definition, insane; almost every single major MMORPG has failed or become F2P because the core gameplay is practically identical to other, more established properties.

Companies might look at this and lay the blame in other areas; that players are simply unwilling to move from where they are, or that other MMO’s were just there first. There is an element of truth in these assumptions, but they’re also a complete cop-out. Sure, guilds don’t like changing games, but many of the players individually are more than willing to test the waters with their wallets - look at the insane demand for Guild Wars 2 pre-orders. "For a competitor to succeed against such experienced and intelligent competition as Wow, they will need to reshape the field"The current situation

Established MMOs are equally at risk to hemorrhaging players, and almost all of them currently are. Arguably, the two most successful games in the genre are World of warcraft and EVE Online, two polarisingly different titles representing the two ends of the MMO spectrum. One, a sandbox title, hands complete control to its players in a womb of unrelenting complexity and difficulty. The other is an old school grinder, one with a stranglehold on the casual market and an impeccable reputation for quality and reliability
tera gold. Both are subscription-based titles.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14186/126604 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14186/126604 I am new to this forum, so excuse me if this question is not in the right place. I am excitedly planing a cob house. I am planing on building a outdoor cob bench with pocket rocket, to work out all potential problems before I begin. I have lived without running water before, and without hot water ( now) and I don't want to do it ever again. Being deprived of a good soak in a tub, has left me designing variations of affordable tubs that can work in a cob house. I thought I figured it out but wanted to run it by those of you with experience. If I sculpted a great soaker tub out of cob, and first coated the cob with a linseed and beeswax clay slip, and then soft malleted a copper sheet on to the cob, it would be water proof. I would have to design the drain well. Does cob react with copper? Would it just be too damp of an environment for the cob? Any thoughts? suggestions?
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14182/126589 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14182/126589 I am the deconstruction manager for Habitat for Humanity of Wake County, located in Raleigh, NC. We disassembled a www.topsider.com home that was build in the mid 70's. We now have the framing package available for sale. We have two octagonal kits available about 800 SF each. Please follow the link below to our information page.

http://www.habitatwake.org/restore/Octagon.html



]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14132/126178 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14132/126178
Its a big Coast Live Oak in the pic. Would like to build 2 200 sqft earth shelters separated by 300ish sqft of courtyard. Complemented nicely by the teracing etc up hill from the "village". This location is about 300' out the backside of the home to the east. Right now almost the whole thing could fit under the oaks canopy.

Assuming the oak has a big tap root and grading could be done without destroying the tree, this would be a great place to have guest quarters and a homeschool classroom etc.

Location Valley Center California (unincorporated San Diego County)

Under the tree


Up the hill due south


Down and north
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14131/126172 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14131/126172 I don't have a kiln, but am interested in melting the bottles down into a clay potting tray and use them as stepping stones around the yard.

Has anyone melted glass down like this before? Or have any tips on how to do this?
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14089/125811 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14089/125811
I am planning on building a green house this year. I am located in Central Siberia. I want to employ the WOFATI methods, that is PSP + PAHS.

My main questions surround the PAHS part of the WOFATI method and I REALLY would like some input from some one who has REAL experience and can give advice from the "been there done that" perspective.

First, let me give an overview of my project. I will have a 50' by 20' greenhouse. Underneath the greenhouse will be a 9' deep by 12' wide by 30' long root cellar/cold trap. Behind the greenhouse area I will have an enclosed 20' by 50' barn where I will house my two horses, 16 goats and ten sheep. Their will be another cold trap trench between the green house area and the barn area. This trench will be 7' wide and 4' deep from the floor of the green house on one side and the barn on the other.

The dirt from excavating the greenhouse (it is sunk only 3-4' into the ground) and the root cellar, the cold sink trench and the ramp to get into the green house as well as drainage ditches around it will be piled up around the structure on three sides. Above the barn will be a hay loft which will insulate the barn in winter and help ventilate in summer (no hay in summer).

I'm installing in-floor heating pipes in the greenhouse section and (hopefully) will be heating them with a Jean Paine pile for supplemental heat.

Now you have an idea of what I'm up to.

Here are my questions. In the PAHS system the author calls for insulating the ground to the tune of R20, no less than 20 ft away from the structure in all directions. How necessary is this to success? I have heard the OPINION that it is the "umbrella" effect more than anything that makes the PAHS system work so well, not so much the insulation. Is there any way of verifying this? ANd if insulation is needed R20 seems lot. Where did this number come from.

My next question, still dealing with PAHS, is the ground pipe, or breathe pipes. Great IDEA, but how much does it really add to the heating of the ground and how well will it handle ventilation when the outside temp is -40 ( a very common outside temp here in the winter, for at least 2-3 weeks). IS it worth the extra trenching, pipes, etc?

A third PAHS question. The whole concept seems based on a six month cool sixth month warm cycle. We are more like 7-8 month cool, 4-5 month warm. Think Alaska. Any experience?

This is all very relevant to me. I'm building in June, once the ground thaws out. If I can make a passive system (more or less) than can give me a growing season of 10 months as opposed to 3.5 months, it would be revolutionary, not only for me but for all of my neighbors.

HAS any one here built or seen built a greenhouse using WOFATI or PAHS systems? Was it passive, truly? what were the outside temps, vs. indoors?

MY final question is about thermal mass. I will have the barn behind the green house with no solid wall between the two. I mean fences and the trench so no animals will be in the green house but, no thermal mass collecting wall. Thats because I'll have the anymals. Will the animals give off MORE heat than a thermal wall would collect when the days are short and the outside temp is, say, -30 to -40? ANYONES gut feeling on this.

Advice, input, questions, criticism; all welcome!!!

Hope to hear from you all soon!!

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14086/125739 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14086/125739
I have a few questions about cob house construction. I am thinking of pole frame and cob type construction not cob only.

1. Is there a limit to size. Is a small two room cottage all that is feasible with this material or is a three bedroom two bath family home possible?
2. Is the material strong enough to make story and a half or two level home possible?
3. Looking online I see a lot of color variation (beyond just various earth tones) So I am wondering if this cob material can be painted.
4. Since this is basically a mud structure, how do you keep wet weather from undermining the integrity of the material (how do you keep it from melting in the rain?)

I make my living as an artist/craftsman and my wife is a school teacher. My kids are in high school and will soon be off on their own. When my wife retires we are considering selling out and moving to the other side of the state (where all my favorite fishing holes are). This type of low cost organic construction REALLY appeals to me. I would be looking at probably four buildings total: our home, my studio, my machine shop/work shop, and a green house.

I live in town now on a 1 acre lot and I have my studio in the basement and shop in the garage but getting away with green houses, gardens, etc. really depend on how much the neighbors are willing to tolerate before they complain. So my garden is in boxes that are cedar stained to match the fence and shed etc (it has to look like a park). Every time I do a project like that I am on pins and needles as to whether I will get away with it or not.

Anyway, I'm looking to downsize a bit and live a little more free not to far in the future. Any input and insights you all have is appreciated. ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14048/125366 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14048/125366
I just purchased 1.5 acres outside of city limits here in Arkansas. There's no building codes so I'm good to go. As of now the land is rough and overgrown but I will begin clearing it next week. There are 2 small creeks and LOTS of eastern cedar/ juniper on the property which I will be using for pretty much everything possible. This will be an ongoing thread documenting the process , as well as where I will post my questions that I have for all of you resourceful people here on permies. I'm a pretty resourceful person myself and have done tons of research but there will be plenty of things that I will work out as I go. Here is the plan thus far.

-Oehler/ wofati type structure built from cedar/juniper from the site
-Off grid
-Design based off of grid of posts 8 feet apart
-The property is fairly flat so this will be an earth berm type structure using as much soil as I can from the site, some of which will be excavated from pond(s).
-Gabled partially on the north side with a few windows, 40- 50% southern surface covered with windows for solar gain
-Rainwater and/or creek water harvesting and filtration using (probably) deep sand with UV filtration for at least the drinking water, possibly solar or boiler still for other water. (still working this out)
-Waterless compost toilet
-Greywater system with reed bed filtration running into a series of small ponds/ pools / reservoirs
-Rocket Mass Heater
-Attached greenhouse
-Earth Tubes for additional cooling in summer. We have very high humidity here during the summer so a natural dehumidification system will be in order. I'm not totally sure that this will be necessary or even a good idea due to the high humidity of Arkansas. If I do proceed with a small earth tube system, drainage and dehumidification will be serious issues. Dehumidification would be via calcium and or salt type dessicant. This would be an active system with 3 small fans pulling air through filters into the west side of the house and a exhaust fan on the eastern side.
- Wood gasifier with natural gas or propane backup used to run generator a couple hours a day to charge batteries. (System designed for low power consumption. Generator will be housed for low noise with automotive muffler attached for extremely quite operation


One question that I have is in regards to rainwater catchment and a green roof. Originally the shed roof was intended to slope down from south to north. I was considering some type of gutter/ french drain type setup on the edge of the roof, above the top layer of polyethylene to capture rainwater. Not sure if this would work. I'm also considering changing the slope from north being the high point and the south the low point with a regular gutter rainwater system. This whole entire concept may be full of problems as I have been unable to find anyone doing anything similar to this. Obviously the green roof presents issues for rain catchment . I do intend to construct a series of small reservoirs where I can divert creek water to and then I could pump that into the house water filter system possibly as the entire water source or at least as a backup.

I am also still working out what I want to do with the flooring. I am considering putting a thin subfloor over the moisture barrier and laying wood decking over that so I can have tile or vinyl in the kitchen/dining area. I'm not sure if I want to put carpet padding and carpet directly on the moisture barrier oehler style. Seems like it would be easy to puncture the moisture barrier by dropping something. I guess I could just cover the moisture barrier with some felt and dirt and then lay the carpet directly on that. (?)

Does anyone have any views on the earth tube and dehumidification system?

I also wonder about the shed roof slope. The structure will be 40 feet wide by 32 feet deep. I know a typical flat roof allows for 1/4 inch of slope per 12 inches. This comes to 8 inches across 32 feet. I don't think I feel comfortable with that number. I was think more like 12-24 inches of drop across 32 feet. Any input on this?

That's all I can think of for now, any insight is greatly appreciated!]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14042/125328 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14042/125328
The guys who film this stuff are looking for other building related stories.

This one will be on a show called Mega Movers.

If any of our members have a project worthy of a TV show, drop your name here with a description of what you're building. The guys in the film crew seem interested in learning about and documenting anything with some entertainment value. They don't live here, and this isn't prime tourist season, so I've offered to show them around. They talk shop constantly, so it will be no problem if I run a dozen story suggestions while we eat and see the sights. I intend to enlist them to document some of my more unique construction projects.

My job is to prepare the building for transport. Most of what I do isn't TV worthy since it involves a thousand little steps that aren't dramatic. So far it looks like my hands might become famous, since I've opened doors and cabinets for the camera and I demonstrated how to clean reclaimed bricks. :D

The lift crew will have very little contact with the film guys which is just as well since most of them aren't particularly articulate. The foreman is at best indifferent with a little hostility tossed in. So although I'm not a regular employee of the house movers, I expect to spend more time with the crew than all of the others combined. Part of my job is to emphasise the recycling aspect. We want this to become a promotional and sales tool for future work.

All of this came about yesterday afternoon when they found the house advertising on the company's website.

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14007/125119 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14007/125119 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=327390867313984&set=a.174879205898485.49813.147479555305117&type=1&theater

I'm thinking this could be a fun project!]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13993/125000 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13993/125000
Am on the lookout for whatever other changes we can do, the sum of the infinitesimal equals real change.

" border="0" />]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13939/124618 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13939/124618
A local preschool has asked me to look into finding ideas for the reconstruction of the play areas for the kids. There are four separate areas for differing age groups (0-1yo) (1-2yo) (2-3.5yo) (3.5-5yo). Basically there is nothing but some sand on the ground and a few plastic climbing toys and a cheap jungle gym. It pretty much looks like a desert in some places.

I only have time to do a small amount of work but my major contribution will be in materials and planning. I'm leaving the funding and physical work mainly for the others. I just don't have the time being that I'm in the middle of a huge project here at home.
I'm able to make small wooden structures like trellises, arbors, tunnels, and raised beds. I'll also be supplying perennial plants for garden areas.

I was thinking of areas to climb, build, hide, dig, tunnel, daydream, pick flowers, watch wildlife (mostly insects) etc.

There's a max possible budget of between 0 and $5000 for supplies. Labor is going to be done by parents and teachers at the school.

Anyone have any ideas???

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13896/124335 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13896/124335
He experimented with using blocks as thermal mass in a greenhouse. I don't know if it made much difference. He also used some blocks as pavers.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13893/124319 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13893/124319


The press should generate over two tons of force. I decided to go to Lowe's Home Improvement today and spent a little over 30 dollars in materials to construct the press. There is about 9 inches of clearance from the base to the contact board where the force is directed.





Again, the compressive force from the press pulled out the screws from the wood easily when I tried to form a block from clay soil. I wish I took a picture of the block I made but it clearly had enough compression to harden significantly which proves the viability of this economical method for constructing CEB. Here is the very basic mold I constructed.



SO this leaves me with the final design challenge which will require me to construct a mold which can be withstand the compressive forces applied by the press. I will also have to look into making an efficient process to extract the block from the mold. Obviously when the dirt is compressed it creates increased friction along the walls so in the next few days I will potentially have the mold constructed of two pieces - the outer wall to confine the internal stresses and an inner wall which will allow me to extract the block.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13875/124136 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13875/124136 How does one go about planning the foundation?

Trying to build with only materials from the property i.e. fallen timbre, cob etc..

As an option,
I Would like to put in a rocket mass in-floor radiant heating system or

Either way, there is no access by truck, so carrying in loads of gravel, rocks etc. will be a big effort,
would like to start the project now and finish by November=ish..
mostly doing it single handedly
thanks
Organdy]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13852/123960 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13852/123960
Why have we not discussed it yet? Is it too expensive and hard to build? Perhaps not suited for our climate?]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13851/123953 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13851/123953 I couldn't call this one Dales' Cottage, since I already started a thread by that name.

This is one that I built for a guy named John. I'm doing some other work to the property in the next little while, so this thread will document the changes. It's a small property in the city, so this will complete its development. The first 20 photos are of what we built last summer and the year before. Other things will be presented as they are built.

John is a hard core scrounge who is so tight with his money that he squeaks when he walks. :) Between my scrounging and his, most things we are doing include lots of salvaged materials either from my demolitions or stuff John has picked up from friends and from construction sites or from the many free piles that adorn Victoria's streets every weekend. Even the new materials you see, are items he has had lying around for some time. We are going to bang these materials together and then he swears that that is it, the property will be full. Leftovers will be given away.

John helps me with all of the projects, in order to save money and because he enjoys learning how things are done. I charge him $25 per hour which is less than others pay. The deal is that we work on his stuff whenever I don't have other work. All of this is happening just in time, since a neurological disorder is advancing at a rate which might make this impossible for him in as little as two years. All of the big rocks and pavers that you'll see, were moved to the property by John when he was a robust landscaper and jack of a few other trades. This spring and summer will be John's last hurah at the manly art of building. I'm glad to be involved. Luckily, his coordination is not affected nearly so much as his strength, so he expects to handle maintainance for a long time. His 20 something son is a great kid and helps out on breaks from university.

I will now load a ton of pictures and explain them later.

The Photos

1. View of the cottage from just behind the house. The cottage is only about 130 sq ft. on the interior but generous window area and light and the cathedral ceiling make it feel larger. The porch adds to the space.

2. The roof continues well past the front steps and porch. Notice the angle of the furthest left portion of the roof. The roof protrudes further out at the peak than at the eaves. This makes it look somewhat like the prow of a boat.

3. The roof overhang at the back of the cottage is about 3 feet wide. Ladders and other things are stored under this shelter. For a small building, the roof overhangs are huge. This is more effective in preventing water problems with siding, windows and doors than any fancy calking ever could. Maintainance of every component is lessened by keeping the weather off of it.

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13835/123818 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13835/123818
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Cooling/passive_cooling.htm]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13809/123611 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13809/123611
The structure of the tile part of the roof is a pretty typical A-frame made from some sort of roughly milled, apparently rot resistant wood that I guess could be as old as the house. Running across this is 1.25"x2" boards, some sort of pine, that isn't nearly as rot resistant. Generally, at least now, some sort of preservative is painted onto the wood used in roofs, but apparently wasn't used here, or else isn't very effective. Laid onto these support boards are your standard fired clay roofing tiles.

The problems we are having is that some of the support boards have rotted, and thus need to be replaced at least, because it causes sagging, leaking tiles. Even where the support boards are fine, tiles seem to shift and/or crack off little bits of the edges and/or water just somehow wanders a bit around the edge of the tile, and either leaks or rots the boards.

Clearly I have to replace many of the support boards, and use on all of them some sort of preservative, hopefully without very toxic chemicals in it.

Then my options are to replace the damaged tiles, taking from stacks of roofing tiles around here saved, I guess, from when part of the roof was replaced with the fiber-cement corrugated stuff, and hope that if the roof is very even it won't develop similar problems or replace the tiles with standing seam metal roofing, which the materials at least will run something like 3-4€/ square meter, plus some sorts of hand tools to make the seams.

I see a lot of fairly old standing seam sheet metal roofs here that look to be in good shape with just some minimal maintenance of painting them every few years. On the other hand, there are some clay tile roofs that seem to hold up well, like a neighbor's barn for one that I don't guess has had tons of maintenance done to it.

Other than the price advantage (piles of them lying around for free) and aesthetics, do clay tiles have anything going for them? We would consider something else as well, as long as its cost doesn't exceed metal and is fairly straightforward for a couple of people to do.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13804/123579 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13804/123579
After our highly successful and inspiring experience last summer of hosting an Earth Plaster workshop facilitated by the Mud Girls Natural Building Collective, we are ready to dive in to doing our part to spread and promote the traditions of this ancient and noble building technology! Come experience the elegant simplicity of making and applying plaster from completely natural and easily available materials, in a four day workshop at our homestead near Lillooet, BC, where we are building a post-and-beam, straw bale house.

Over the course of the workshop you will learn, through instruction and hands-on practice, about the materials, proportions, mixing and application of earth plaster in a variety of building applications, from interior lath-and-plaster walls, to facing a cob stove, as well as applying decorative details and earth-based pigmented colours.

Camp out in a beautiful meadow at the foot of Vast Mountain, discover the satisfaction and power of focused, co-operative endeavors, get muddy, and learn! Free child-care provided, as well as three delicious, mostly organic vegetarian and/or vegan meals per day for a modest cost ($35 per person per day, to pay for food and cooking), and your labour in exchange for teaching and facilitation.

Herbalist, gardener, local activist Gillian Smith, and builder/poet Jonathan, with their young son, Jamie, are a small family living in a long-standing, close-knit community of alternatively minded folks in the mountains of BC's Southern Interior (St'at'imc Territory). We are committed to the preservation and propagation of skills, arts and life-ways that provide a respectful and harmonious means of relating to this Earth that is the source of everything we are. Jonathan will be your fearless leader, and we will endeavor to all work as a team in a cooperative, supportive and fun filled way.

For more information about the workshop, or to register, please contact Gillian by email : info@gilliansherbs.com, and check out our blog : www.vastmountain.ca for photos and more information about our place. Registration is limited - please register by May 15th. If you can't make it in June, we hope to have another workshop in August.

To learn more about the Mud Girls' work, check out www.mudgirls.ca]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13765/123266 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13765/123266


Who wouldn't love to wake up in that??

http://www.dezeen.com/2011/10/30/garden-shed-by-ville-hara-and-linda-bergroth/]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13689/122691 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13689/122691
I was hoping I could get a critique of this possible rain barrel pump system. The rain barrel system itself is already constructed, but because I didn't have the materials and was lazy, they're basically on the ground, only raised up about half a foot on concrete blocks for stability, and so they have very little water pressure in and of themselves. I'm hoping that once all 6 barrels fill with the 330 gallons, that will generate a significant amount of water, but once it gets low, I'm afraid that it won't have sufficient pressure to be useful. My first question is whether this assumption is true or false, and as such if I am wasting my time trying to design this pump system. I could wait and see, but it hasn't rained a whole lot here yet, so they're only very minimally filled at the moment.

My second question is whether what I currently have in mind would work. Like I said, the rain barrel system is already built, and so would prefer not to make any major additions to it's overall architecture, such as cutting holes for the insertion of a submersible pump. I'd rather have an external pump system. Here's what I had in mind:



Will this work? The way I see it working is on demand, where I turn the spigot on and activate the pump, and water as needed, and also as a timed system, where both the pump and the rain barrel outlet will be on coordinated timers, allowing for regular daily soaker hose irrigation. Right now when I turn on the faucet, it's just a trickle, not enough to power a hose by any means, but I'm wondering if the outlet was submerged underwater, and was in a bucket with a constant water level that was being siphoned out by the submersible pump, would this be enough pressure to siphon the water from out of the system and maintain a constant water level in the pump bucket? This idea should work in theory, correct? Or am I missing something critical that will cause this system to not function properly?

Any tips, critiques, or better ideas in general would be much obliged. ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13682/122634 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13682/122634
I want to use round timber because I do not want to square my timbers, I hear that round wood is stronger than same sized square and I don't want to pay somebody else to mill wood for me (burn fuel bringing it, etc). By happy coincidence, there are a few very tall white pines standing in or near my building site. Since I don't have a tractor or anything I have to move whatever I gather to the building site, "right there already" is nice.

So, my question is: does anyone know of a good source for information about Round Timber Joinery? Simple is best, the whole place will be 24'x18' so I am guessing that will be four bents spaced 8' apart. Also, I am guessing that I'll want to let White Pine dry for a year before I chisel the joints. Is that right? Or is it best to let them shrink when they are together?

Thanks.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13629/122214 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13629/122214
Earthen Hand Natural Building travels world wide to create affordable, ecological, and self-reliant housing and empower people through natural building education.

Learn to build houses that are low in embodied energy, provide their own power, water, and food while processing their own wastes. This is what the world needs right now. In the words of Thoreau, "What is the point of having a nice house, if you don't have a decent planet to put it on?" This revolution must come from us the people.

Anyone interested in attending formal trainings, please see WWW.EARTHENHAND.COM

Here is a sample of the latest upcoming class schedule - these are Oregon, Washington and New Mexico:

2012 Workshop Schedule
• Adobe Brick + Cob Sculpture + Plasters March 31 - April 1
• Finish Plaster + Earthen Paint (aliz) April 21 - 22
• Build an Adobe Horno / Cob Oven May 5 - 6
• Earthen Building Design May 19 - 20
• Earthbag Building Basics June 23 -24
• Cob Bottle Wall + Sculpture June 3
• Plastering and Earthen Paints June 30 - July 1
• Earthen Floors - applying and finishing July 7 - 8
• Earthen Paints - distance learning Anytime

Later this year we are planning events in Burma, Mali, Dominican Republic, Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, Jamaica, Hawaii, Costa Rica, Guatemala, and Madagascar. Ask us about these because they aren't on the website just yet.

We want to keep offering the best natural building classes possible. Please help us by suggesting a class, get in touch though the website. Also welcome are suggestions about how to fill more workshops. We are offer some amazing classes that don't fill up. Freelance marketers and entrepreneurs out there, get in touch.

Thanks!]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13625/122194 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13625/122194 I started this cottage 8 years ago. An injured hand forced me to leave it for a month. Upon my return, I discovered that all of the windows,doors and other stuff meant for the cottage and the house was either stolen or destroyed. Six months ago I returned again after not returning for 5 years or more. I decided it was now or never. The neighborhood has improved and I have a guy living on site full time. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Some people who read my add on this forum are going to help finish it in exchange for one year with no rent.

The alder and cottonwood were the diameter of a shovel handle when this began. They are now casting too much shade and I will remove those that are within 25 ft. of the building. The moss on the roof is the result of too much shade.

Some of the plywood was formerly used for signage at demolition sales. Throughout the cottage there are arrows pointing to firewood, lumber and other products from years gone by.

There is no rot. I attribute that to the large overhangs and to ventilation. Mildew, yes, but no rot.


]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13594/121996 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13594/121996
The point is, roofs should be relatively light weight (in my opinion) to save on structure costs. The straw will pack down over time, and more can be added later to boost it up. Probably won't take too long to be as dense as a straw bale, and easier to make it conform to curves and such. Anyway where I am thinking of building, the straw comes mostly in large (5 foot diameter) round bales; hard to use those directly, heh.

FYI I dismantled a root cellar in Wyoming (starting to cave in, in places) that had probably been there for almost a hundred years. Back then there was no plastic. The construction method was lots of timbers, lots of split rails on the ceiling, a layer of loose straw, and a foot or two of dirt. That was it! Of course that area probably gets all of 13" of rain a year, and the soil has enough clay in it to prevent water percolating down before it evaporates off the surface!]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13580/121879 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13580/121879 I've done a lot of research lately in sustainable building, zero-energy building, and budget building techniques. I've looked mostly at earthbag, straw bale, and earthships.
While it sounded so excited to have a zero energy home that produces its own water, electricity, and food.. from what i understand the earthship design doesn't work well in a lot of climates. In many parts of the country its too hot and humid to keep itself cool with the thermal mass principle. The night temperatures in a lot of places don't drop enough for the thermal mass to re-cool and get ready for another day of absorbing heat. And since the earth itself is not a good insulator and absorbs the heat, running A/C becomes sort of a challenge when you are fighting to cool all of the thermal mass that stores the heat from the day and then losing all of the cool to the environment by poor insulation.

Am I correct about this whole thermal mass thing? Is it only valuable in the desert and cold climates? Or is it still a viable option to aid in the heating and cooling of a home in places like the Carolinas?

I'm really just trying to figure out the absolute best building technique for my area that will be cheap and also be super efficient or even self sufficient. I'm assuming that insulation is much more important than thermal mass in my area where its probably impossible to really get away without using A/C to maintain a comfortable environment. So instead of using my home like a heat sink (thermal mass), its more important to keep the internal temperature sealed in and contained. Is there anything that combines insulation properties AND thermal mass properties to allow efficient A/C cooling and thermal mass heating in winter?

There seems to be so little info on this topic when it comes to earthen structures. Nobody really seems to address the issue with warm, humid climates.
Am I missing something? Do any of you have any experience building earthen buildings in these sort of climates?

Thanks]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13536/121424 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13536/121424
The process.--- 1. Wear the proper safety equipment. Your most important item is the mask. Get a good quality asbestos grade mask. The ones with a face mask or goggles are best. Insulation can get in the eyes and there are lots of pokey things in dimly lit attics.

A full face mask like mine in the photo will also be great whenever you use a grinder, a concrete breaker or any number of saws and other dust producing equipment.

A good mask will cost between $125 and $250. It will last for hundreds of uses and in the long run it is cheaper than using worthless disposable masks that simply don't work. --- If you can't afford good equipment then your building activities should be restricted to internet forums until you can. ;)

I will show the most effective way to gather and bag the insulation tonight. I'll be wearing the suit pictured below. At the end of the day I'll be perfectly clean and not itchy. And I'll be breathing air which is cleaner than that of most office buildings.

A simple tip --- If your mother could tell that it's you in there, you need to cover up better. :)

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13495/121169 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13495/121169 http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2114920/Family-built-secret-house-woods-telling-planners-evicted-because.html

I don't know what the planning codes are like in the states but if we can build a house and no one complains about it after four years you are home and dry

I like the way the neighbours and complaining now despite the fact that the building hasn't impacted on their lives in any way over he last four years.

aman]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13468/121003 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13468/121003
Hi guys,

Concerning the use of bubblers in natural swimming pools, Paul's guest in the podast says she isn't convinced about the effectiveness of the bubblers as pumping devices. Paul expresses the same concern. They are missing something here: bublers function as airlift pumps, and can be very effective and powerful if the air flow is driven up.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airlift_pump
Air lift pumps are used a lot in water treatment plants, they move the full flow of the plant (albeit on small heights) and are incredibly simple and reliable. Using air lift pump technology that dubbles as a bubbler is an_excellent_technical solution, i.m.h.o.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13452/120889 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13452/120889
I have ~5 acres of tall stalky grass available for making traditional straw bales with this summer before it goes to seed (seeds in the walls = mouse/insect food = bad), but doing so would involve a lot of work in cutting it, waiting for it to dry and/or turning it as it dries, raking it up, and baling it.

There's a hillside thickly covered in ponderosa pine right next to my house, with plenty of long, dry, dead needles on the ground. All I would have to do is rake them up and bale them.

And so I've been thinking why it would or wouldn't work, and of questions yet to be answered:

REASONS FOR PINE STRAW:
1) people do indeed make bales out of pine straw (like this video demonstrating a hand baler: http://youtu.be/aACdMEP0P80 )
2) i wouldn't have to do the work of cutting straw, waiting for it to dry / turning it, haul them across the fields to my house, etc. i'd only have to rake up the pine needs, bale them, and haul them the short distance to my house.
3) the pine needles are already dry.
4) pine needles are allelopathic, reducing the chance of mold, fungus, and insect problems.
5) pine tree covered hill is directly adjacent to my house = minimal transport downhill.
6) as is, the hillside covered in dry pine needs could be considered a bit of a fire hazard.

REASONS AGAINST PINE STRAW:
1) super flammable.

UNKNOWNS:
1) insulative value of pine straw?
2) pine needles get very brittle over time - would the bales hold up, or would they crumble and subside over time?

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:
1) I'm slowing turning the surrounding acres of stalky grass into gardens, and I would rather not remove biomass from those areas. I'd much rather chop and drop it and use it as mulch right where it is. I don't plan on doing any gardening on the pine covered hillside any time soon, so I would be more comfortable removing biomass from that area (there's enough grass and brushy plants up there that I'm not too worried about erosion).
2) The straw bale wrap wouldn't be load-bearing, merely insulative. Of course I would be extending the eaves of the roof to keep the water off it, and putting the bale wrap on a good dry foundation (hat + boots).
3) Surfacing: A) I have a ton of cove tongue-and-groove wood siding that looks pretty darn classy. B) I can acquire horrendously ugly vinyl siding for so stupidly cheap that it almost becomes appealing. C) I also have a large clay deposit directly behind my house for making cob / clay slip to plaster the outside with (this option seems the most fire resistant but the most work).
4) The structure is small (450 square feet footprint, not very tall), and I have friends, so the workload of any of the options is doable.

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
ABE

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13449/120859 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13449/120859
An extreme response would be a thorough power washing.

This guy has stepped it up a notch. He blasts away up to 1/4 inch of the brick's surface, removing the hardest most weather resistent layer and leaving a soft, chalky, pock marked surface that is bound to absorb every drop of rain that hits it. It's the equivalent of 200 or 300 hundred years worth of surface erosion in one day. I have recycled 150 yr old bricks which still have their original surface largely intact. The sand blasted bricks are so badly damaged that they may need to be stuccoed over to prevent spalling.

Hopefully this guy will damage a building on the heritage registry and be shut down by the cost of fines. Some sort of ladder or scaffold failure would serve the common good in his case.


]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13428/120701 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13428/120701
We do not have any extra room in our house for guests as it is only a small three room off grid house she built a couple years ago, and having guests sleep over is not an option unless they want to sleep in the guest tipi. Most of our friends are adventurous enough to do so, but there are others who like the thought of 4 walls and a bit of warmth at night. Barring sending them into town to sleep in a hotel, they would sleep on the floor in our small small house.

I've decided that it will be my experiment into earth ship housing, and being that it will only be around 400 square feet, I believe that the cost should stay relativity low with a little help from my friends. A few of my friends are general contractors who are very interested in learning how to build green and are more than willing to donate their time. I hope to switch industries in the future and work on green energy projects, building green houses and setting up off grid or grid tie systems.

Plan is to build with absolutely no facilities, no power, just a wood stove and maybe a small buried tank for water that we can fill from the house. Living roof is a must, I want it to look as natural as possible like there is just a door and a few windows coming out of the side of the hill. With a semi circular design, I hope to eliminate the need of bracing the walls as with sand bag bunkers. A gravel base covered in sand then brick would be my floor, but what kind of drainage should I look into? Was thinking french drains under... I also will be covering it with a couple layers of silage plastic, creating an umbrella, and hopefully keeping out as much moisture as possible. Should I put a plastic sheet on the ground level?

With enough prep work, aka- digging out the side of the hill before hand, collecting logs for the trusses, I can see this small project being done in a weekend... well the main construction of it, and the plastering being done over a few weekends.

What are your thoughts?
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13418/120595 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13418/120595
I'm wondering if I can pick your collective brain about cob/slipstraw building- retrofitting a stick-frame 20'x30' building with a trussed roof on a cement pad. There is plywood on the exterior and, apparently, it's structural, so I'm not allowed to remove it. We're trying to figure out if there is a safe way to insulate the walls and roof of this shack without using synthetic materials which will off-gas or get all up in my nose, eyes, skin, and throat with little prickly horrible bits.

We already have planned a little cob extension on the front of this structure (south side) and we will be loading that up with glass and windows to let in light. We'll be making a thermal-mass floor for the entire building. Because of the cob section (its look and feel) I would really like to extend the earthy, rounded, smooth feeling to the rest of the building's interior, so I thought that maybe a slipstraw infill between the studs, and then plastered, might work. But by many accounts, slipstraw doesn't have a very high R-value. I'm also a little worried about moisture moving in the plywood, and the need to put up tar paper on the exterior of the plywood in order to plaster it (cutting off the path vapour, possibly causing condensation?) I would really like to earthen plaster both the interior and exterior walls. Any suggestions (even outside-the-box ones) are greatly appreciated! I've been searching and searching for a solution to this, but I think a discussion might be what I need most. Cheers!

Kat]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13414/120552 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13414/120552 Appropedia, helping to build a resource for green building (among other things) and their first project will be to create one article. I'd like to have a list of topic ideas to suggest to them - and this seems like the perfect place to ask for a wishlist.

So please tell me either names of topics (e.g. solar space heating) or links to fantastic articles, designs or other resources that someone could base an article on (e.g. I love this one about architecture without architects).

To see what we've got already, see the Construction, and its subcategories - or use the search box to see if your favorite topic is there yet, and tell us if it isn't. There are some good pages, but there's so much more to be written.

Thanks for your help!]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13406/120491 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13406/120491