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		<title><![CDATA[permies: "critter care"]]></title>
		<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/forums/f-4/critter-care</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The newest discussed topics in the forum "critter care"]]></description>
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				<title>Introducing chickens to new foods</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi all,<br /> <br /> Having some trouble recently with getting my chooks to eat some fodders known to be good.  Particularly alfalfa and tree lucerne.  I know that chickens have to learn to eat new foods and this is usually something they learn growing up, but it seems my chooks have never had these foods before and thus don't recognise them as food.<br /> <br /> Any tips?  I have tried making the leaves more attractive by dunking them in olive oil first, and even adding some spices to that, but they just look at it.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 16:57:13 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Hugh Hawk]]></author>
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				<title>Bee colony death linked to HFcorn syrup</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.nature.com/scitable/blog/green-screen/buzz_kill_bee_populations_and" target="_blank" >http://www.nature.com/scitable/blog/green-screen/buzz_kill_bee_populations_and</a>]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14654/130311</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 14 2012 15:16:19 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<title>beekeeper's insurance</title>
				<description><![CDATA[got an electronic mail about insurance for beekeepers from Phil Chandler's organization. have a look <b><a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.friendsofthebees.org/beekeepers/insurance/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">here</a></b>. that particular organization is just for UK beeks, but there's an effort to spread the idea elsewhere. I believe the important difference is that previous insurance options in the UK were available only through the British Beekeepers Association, which has strong ties to the pesticide industry.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 11 2012 11:28:35 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[tel jetson]]></author>
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				<title>Honeybee Democracy</title>
				<description><![CDATA[just in time for swarm season, here's an <b><a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnnjY823e-w" target="_new" >interesting lecture by Tom Seeley</a></b>. he starts out throwing just about the best nerd shapes ever.<br /> <br /> I think a lot of folks, even some beekeepers, assume that the queen runs the show. that is most certainly not the case.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 11 2012 09:47:16 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[tel jetson]]></author>
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				<title>Muscovy hybrids?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Our pair of Toulouse geese, who have never succeeded in hatching any of their eggs, have both been laying eggs this year.  This probably explains why the eggs never hatched.  But our young muscovies are now all grown up, and the drakes are rather 'demanding'.  <br /> <br /> The geese have just gone broody and are currently sitting on a few eggs.  We already have some muscovy/pekin crosses, which are sterile and don't even lay any eggs, but we can't eat them because they belong to my son.  Can muscovies cross with geese?  And will any offspring turn out to be as ugly as a muscovy, as self important as a goose, and yet another sterile hybrid?  Maybe I should exchange their eggs for muscovy eggs...]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 11 2012 09:22:28 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Burra Maluca]]></author>
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				<title>Sawfly</title>
				<description><![CDATA[For the last three years our gooseberries have been plagued with Sawfly. The plants have been moved to a different location but they still have it. Any suggestions apart from nematodes please as they are expensive and hard to get hold of.<br /> <br /> Thanks Permies ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 15:00:01 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Wenderlynn Bagnall]]></author>
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				<title>pig lice</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Anyone have any experience with pig lice?  I just bought 2 feeder pigs for the first time and when I got them home I noticed that they had some type of bug on their skin.  Did a little research and concluded that they were pig lice.  I was thinking maybe diatomaceous earth but I couldn't find anything on anyone using it for that.  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 21:04:12 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kevin Sturgill]]></author>
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				<title>A list of plant species and forage toxicity of said plants</title>
				<description><![CDATA[good info: <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.alpaca.asn.au/docs/about/husbandry/poison_plants.pdf" target="_new" rel="nofollow">plant toxicity list</a><br /> from aussie land but a good many species for the U.S. at least the warmer areas like mine]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 13:39:58 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[chris cromeens]]></author>
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				<title>Five gallon buckets to make chicken waterers, chicken feeders, and nesting boxes</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I love five gallon buckets!<br /> <br /> Recently I had to replace my chicken feeder and waterer since they were not big enough for the size of our chicken flock. I made sure to take lots of pictures of the process and write what I did and learned down online for all to see!<br /> <br /> <li><b><a class="snap_shots" href="http://fivegallonideas.com/chicken-feeder/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">Five Gallon Chicken Feeder</a></li><li><a class="snap_shots" href="http://fivegallonideas.com/chicken-waterer/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">Five Gallon Chicken Waterer</a></li><li><a class="snap_shots" href="http://fivegallonideas.com/chicken-nesting-box" target="_new" rel="nofollow">Five Gallon Nesting Boxes</a></b></li><br /> <br /> Note: I haven't actually built any of the nesting boxes yet because the coop has plenty built in already. But it fit the 5 gallon chicken care theme.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 20:04:03 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Trevor van Hemert]]></author>
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				<title>New babies and 'exotic rare breed'</title>
				<description><![CDATA[My husband and I both had the same reaction: Eeww! <br /> <br /> However, I do know a lot of animals, mostly human, who are very pretty but serve no useful purpose.  So we look forward to seeing how the Naked Necks will turn out.  A friend told me they are very tasty but I'm holding out for eggs.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 19:10:59 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jeanine Gurley]]></author>
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				<title>Turkey with a broken leg</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I had a new experience with my baby turkeys.  Normally I am very matter of fact in dealing with these matters - don't know what came over me - must of been the super moon.  I have written about it on my blog:  <a class="snap_shots" href="http://localsustainablefoodgarden.blogspot.com/2012/05/so-i-have-turkey-baby-with-broken-leg.html" target="_new" >turkey on a stick</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 5 2012 21:50:44 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jeanine Gurley]]></author>
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				<title>Goat care</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Welcome to the wacky world of goats!<br /> <br /> Remember that goats MUST come in twos, as a single may grieve itself to death.<br /> <br /> If you have them in a small space, they may not get enough exercise to be healthy, and you increase the intestinal parasite problems.<br /> <br /> Never, ever tether a goat unless you will be there ALL the time to untangle it.  It simply is not a good idea.  <br /> <br /> Those things aside, goats are wonderful, entertaining, intelligent critters.  They are escape artists, and they will figure out how to get in trouble without any encouragement.<br /> <br /> They will also get into your heart.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 5 2012 19:24:37 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Alice in TX/MO]]></author>
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				<title>Dogs in the garden, &amp; Dog Poop</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hello,<br /> <br /> I recently moved into a home on half an acre. I planted a veggie garden and fenced it in to keep my dogs out. Now, however, I am learning more about permaculture and when I look out at the backyard, I see wasted space! I need to plant, plant, plant! <br /> <br /> I have 5 dogs who are up to no good most of the time.<br /> <br /> I can think of 3 reasons why I should keep the dogs out of the garden:<br /> 1) Dog poop<br /> 2) Dogs running full speed through my kale!!!<br /> 3) Dogs attempting to eat my kale!!!<br /> <br /> But... I would like to plant things in the rest of my yard, too. What are some hardy - but edible - plants that you think could stand up against being run-through by a horde of wrasslin' dogs, probably wouldn't seem tasty to those dogs, and which preferably would stick around each year so that I don't have fragile seedlings out there each spring? I'm thinking berry bushes and some dwarf apple trees, but would like to know what you all think. <br /> <br /> And finally, some questions about dog poop:<br /> <br /> 1) For those of you that poop-scoop, do you have a separate compost pile for your dog's poop like, I guess, the humanure piles I've seen mentioned on here? How's that working out? <br /> 2) How terrible would it be if dog poop was raked up with the grass clippings and accidentally made it into the regular compost pile? I'd like your opinions on that because I'm wary of raking leaves & grass clippings because I KNOW there will be dog poop somewhere in there. Everything I've read about composting says NO dog poop.<br /> <br /> Thanks!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 5 2012 06:39:15 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kylie Harper]]></author>
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				<title>Dwarf Goat questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone, Id like to consider getting a dwarf goat of some kind some day. I just had a few questions for those who have experience. First some background:<br /> <br /> I have a back yard where I can give them two 20 x 20 ft spots, put on rotation. My plan was to put up portable fencing around the area and then teather them to a stake within that area. The fencing is more for predators than anything, although we don’t really have any but dogs. The grassy area is a mix of grass, weeds and tons of clover. I could plant alfalfa too. I prefer not to give them grain. I have room for housing as well, but they would be out in pasture most of the day unless its really bad weather. I also have 6 hens.<br /> <br /> Questions:<br /> 1. Will this space be enough for 1 goat plus any offspring?<br /> 2. What is the best breed for this space? I was thinking Nigerian Dwarf.<br /> 3. Is there a website on how much volume of food they need in one day?<br /> 4. Is it better to own a buck or get the doe serviced? Does it matter where you get the buck from?<br /> 5. If you get the doe serviced, does the buck come to us or vice versa?<br /> 6. How long (once she becomes pregnant) until she will start giving milk. And, once she births and the kids are taken away how long will she continue to give milk? Ive heard to rest them from breeding at least 3 months.<br /> 7. When do you know when to take the kids away and will it be hard to get sell them etc.?<br /> 8. What do they eat in winter time when there is snow, I assume they are cold hardy?<br /> 9. Do they absolutely need something to climb on? If they are teathered I don’t know how this will work.<br /> 10. Can I have chickens in the same paddock with the goats?<br /> 11. Any other important info a goat noob should know?<br /> <br /> Thanks everyone!<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 4 2012 12:02:37 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Rob Sigg]]></author>
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				<title>bee swarm</title>
				<description><![CDATA[My sister had a bit of a problem when she got off work the other day.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14450/128666</guid>
				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14450/128666</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 4 2012 09:10:48 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Robert Ray]]></author>
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				<title>housing for geese</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Recently I acquired 9 geese and they've been great.  They're growing super fast while eating weeds and grass with very little feed.  We plan to eat about half of them soon.  I've also heard good things about their behaviors as guard animals for keeping away raccoons which are a big problem for poultry here along a river.  Though I don't know how well they'd fare after dark.  So, I've been housing them for now with my flock of laying hens and man are they making a mess of the place!<br /> <br /> The chickens live upstairs (on the roosts) and they live downstairs so they can both exist reasonably well in the same raccoon-proof enclosure inside the barn.  They do however need some sort of little roof to keep from getting pooed on.  The biggest problem is the wet smelly floor, I'd need literally a ton or more of bedding and would have to clean out the area every week or two in order not to violate one of Paul Wheaton's rules of farming; "if it smells bad. you're doing it wrong".  Before the geese (and a few ducks too, though not as bad) I only had to clean out the coop once or twice a year.  The birds are only in it while it's dark out and maybe an hour after sunrise on some days.<br /> <br /> My thanks goes out to anyone who has some wisdom they'd like to share on this subject.  I've got a lot of ideas floating around in my head for better chicken housing that I'd like to try out but I've been observing them for a few years now, not so with the ducks and geese.  It does seem that at least the ducks, and probably geese too, like to go into a bigger building for the night.  When we got our first muscovy ducks last summer they abandoned their re-worked chicken tractor the first chance they got in favor of the barn.  In case you're wondering they weren't confined in it at all times, it was just their overnight place.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 3 2012 11:58:16 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[S Haze]]></author>
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				<title>harversting ants for chicken feed</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Around my place there are loads and loads of ants. We have no really agressive ants here in in the Netherlands, they are just annoying when coming in to the house and when they "farm" aphids on your crops. I'm thinking about how they can be a great source of protein for my chickens. Because an interstate runs at a few yards next to the house and grounds, I can't let the chickens run loose and forage them for them selves, so now I'm wondering about ways to:<br /> <br /> 1) catch significant amounts of mature ants in a way that keeps them edible for chickens<br /> 2) maybe create some sort of artificial mounts so I can harvest the grubs before they mature.  <br /> <br /> Just digging them up doesn't work as they generally choose to live underneat pavement and structures...<br /> <br /> Any ideas?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 3 2012 03:14:14 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kat deZwart]]></author>
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				<title>recommendation for bee packages</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone, IM looking to get bees next year and Im looking for input. I really want more native or natural bees, not the ones that have been commercially bred. Does anyone know of any good sources for them? I can do packages or if they are in PA I can pick up a nuc I suppose. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 1 2012 14:18:26 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Rob Sigg]]></author>
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				<title>A newbies experience letting turkeys raise themselves.</title>
				<description><![CDATA[This is my first year letting the birds do thier own hatching of eggs and raising babies.  Pardon my ignorance in some areas that you veterans will probably have known about forEVER but for me and my hubby it is brand new stuff!  <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.therenegadefarmer.com/2012/04/letting-mother-nature-take-reins-harder.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">First year letting Mother Nature do her thing</a> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 1 2012 09:04:21 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jeanine Gurley]]></author>
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				<title>Chick integration and weather concerns</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi, there.<br /> <br /> I am hoping that someone can help me with some chicken concerns that I have. First disclaimer: I live in a town, on a 12,000-ft. lot that is unfenced (will be soon!), and can't have my hens out in the yard w/out protection from the many neighborhood dogs and cats. Second disclaimer: I do not have a woodworking/handyman husband...or a husband at all (am working on manifesting him)!<br /> <br /> I have four, year-old hens who reside in a stationary (was supposed to be portable originally) coop with a small fenced run. The run is detachable from the coop and the girls are moved around the yard when I am home and can watch them. This year, I have three chicks, aged 8 and 9 weeks, who have outgrown their inside brooder. I have an A-frame tractor in the yard, where I have been putting the little ones during the day when it's warm out. Our temperatures are fluctuating this time of year (I'm in Oregon) and our nights are back down in the 40s. I have been bringing the little ones in every night, but having a hard time catching them. If I don't bring them in, they will lie on the wet ground in the tractor and not go up to roost. They only use a perch during the day for siesta times. (And none of the year-old hens go up to roost at night, either.) <br /> <br /> I think the large hens will just beat up the smaller ones if I try to integrate them at this point and the chicks will have nowhere to escape, so I haven't tried this. Can't leave them out at night, but also spend an inordinate amount of time/effort just trying to catch them to bring them in each evening. Am concerned that keeping them in their brooder inside may be cruel and unusual punishment, but am a loss during this transition time to figure out the right thing to do. Really cannot afford to buy yet another coop structure for these tenuous weeks. <br /> <br /> Any help is most appreciated!! Thank you in advance for not telling me that I am dumb.  ???]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Apr 30 2012 11:49:29 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Gwynefar Richardson]]></author>
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				<title>Paddock shift idea for rabbit, pigeon, quail</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi all!<br /> <br /> I have been working and reworking an idea for a paddock shift system to raise rabbits, pigeons, and quail in. I am currently raising rabbits in wire cages in the garage, and will be adding quail in about a month or so. Eventually I would like to create a setup that would let me raise them outside during the warmer months. Basically I'm looking for some outside input as to what could go wrong, or right. Good idea, bad idea, crazy idea whatever, all comments are welcome.<br /> <br /> The jist of it:<br /> I have a 50'x300' suburban lot. Older sub no HOA, thank god, dead end road.<br /> Neighbor is awesome, old retired southerner who loves eating rabbit and quail.<br /> The back 50'x150' will be a food forest once complete.<br /> The food forest will consist of ~30 100sq ft paddocks surrounded by hugelkulture beds planted with all kinds of stuff.<br /> The paddocks will be planted with forage for the animals, the hugelbeds will be planted with forage for me.<br /> The paddocks will be arranged like a honey comb with the gate from one, leading to the next.<br /> Each paddock will have a wire fence around it, either chain link or welded wire, about 4' high.<br /> Each paddock will have a water line ran to it so I can automate the water supply.<br /> An underground rabbit den will be located in each paddock, they will be blocked off when rabbits arn't in there.<br /> Each paddock will have a pipe set underground in the center so that a pigeon cote on an pole can be placed in it, or just a pole.<br /> When housing pigeons or quail, maybe rabbits also, I will throw a large net over top and clip it to the top of the fence with something.<br /> I am hoping the center pole will act like a tent pole and hold the netting up, if needed I can use multiple poles to hold the net up.[/li]<br /> <br /> Why an overhead net?<br /> A couple of reasons really:<br /> 1) I don't want pigeon shit all over everything.<br /> 2) I want to keep my neighbors in the happy zone, and don't know how happy he would be with pigeons landing and pooping on his stuff.<br /> 3) I can throw a football from my backyard and hit a restraunts dumpster, I'd really rather my pigeons weren't "free ranging" in garbage.<br /> 4) Help deter predators*<br /> <br /> * As far as predators go I am pretty lucky here. In 3 years I have not seen any except a neighbors cat, my dog almost caught it and it hasn't been back since. I have never seen a raccoon here or an opossum, not saying there not here but I set my trash out on the back porch routinely when I don't want to walk to the trash can and I have never had anything get in it. There are occasional hawks that fly overhead.<br /> <br /> As far as managment of this system goes... well that's a whole 'nother post. Here are some quick pics to help give an idea of what I am describing. The sketchup one I drew, the guy in the pic is 5'8" for scale. The other is from a PDF on underground rabbit housing, basically taking this idea but instead of a pipe leading to a cage, it leads to the paddock.<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Apr 30 2012 07:53:14 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Brad Davies]]></author>
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				<title>Fence posts and their unexpected delights.</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Yesterday my husband and I spent the majority of the day putting-up two additional pastures for our horses.  At the end of our build I noticed one of our fence posts was not quite right.  I checked my herd for any proof of an impact with the post and they were free from injury.  So, that meant a long walk to the back field for closer inspection of the post.  <br /> <br /> Upon arrival, I found what I can only estimate to have been 50,000 honey-bees.  A huge swarm that fully encompassed the exposed 4x6 post!  Fortunately, we had an empty hive on-hand.  A little work and we had the bees snuggled in their beds.  Ahh... such a reward at the end of a long day was fantastic!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 29 2012 07:39:03 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Susanna de Villareal-Quintela]]></author>
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				<title>Horse care, specifically feeding</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I've been looking up permaculture methods of feeding horses in winter when, in this climate, ordinary grasses stop growing and large amounts of hay and other feed need to be bought. I'm also wondering about pasture management, i.e. a wide enough variety of plants to ensure good grazing as well as keeping the ground in decent order (a running horse can rip the place up like a plough!). And I'm not having much success. So if anyone has come up with this stuff, even just little tips here and there, it'd be much appreciated. Just trying to compile a bit, that's all. :)]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Apr 28 2012 18:55:07 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Steve Furlong]]></author>
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				<title>Chick raising advice</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I have a couple of hens sitting on fertilized eggs, estimated to hatch next Thursday.  This is my first time raising chicks, although I've had a small flock of 6 layers for a year now.<br /> <br /> My local farm store is trying to sell me medicated feed for the chicks because they won't be vaccinated.  They also recommend some germ-be-gone something or other for the water... with my hens I've always just put some apple cider vinegar in their water and they've been healthy.  I'd like to keep them as organic as possible, can anyone recommend an alternative feed???  Any other tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated!  ]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14333/127686</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Apr 28 2012 07:55:43 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jessica Windle]]></author>
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				<title>What do your chickens eat in the winter?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi Paul and everyone else. My brother is starting to raise chickens in Vermont and he has set up a paddock system like the one described here. They will forage for their food in the natural environment, but what happens in the winter when their is 3 feet of snow on the ground?  He is getting advice to feed them gain with a lot of soy, but he does not like the sound of that.  I heard someone on an interview on a different permiculture site that they don't feed them grain and as a result they don't get any eggs in the winter and that was just fine with them. But they did not mention what or how they eat during the cold months. My brother just does not want them to go hungry. Does anyone have any thoughts or knowledge on this?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 26 2012 19:16:48 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Sean Barry]]></author>
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				<title>Brooder House Worm Farm</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Last year I built an 8x8 foot brooder house , fashioned like a raised bed on bottom and a-frame roof out of pallet wood, plywood, chicken wire , covered with black tarp. I filled it with 18 inches of wood shavings and then put 100 chicks through it . At end of summer I stirred up bedding and threw 3-4inches of grass clippings on top .2 weeks ago I threw some straw down and put chicks in. I noticed them scratching right from the start and pulling up earthworms , pecking at ants and beetles. I guess I'll keep it going .]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 26 2012 04:53:27 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[wayne stephen]]></author>
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				<title>Is she a roo?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I bought pullets, but I know how unreliable the sexing can be. I have absolutely no idea how to tell the difference at such a young age, and I am very new to chickens, but she looks different than all of the others, and acts differently. She's much bigger than the others, but has developed at the same rate, if that makes sense. All of the same feathers came in at the same time as the others. She's the same age, but her comb is much bigger as well. She's also lead hen, but that doesn't surprise me considering her size. She is much more dominant of the others. Is she just bigger? Or could be be a roo?<br /> <br /> Here she is:<br /> <img src="http://i45.tinypic.com/ergcba.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> One her age:<br /> <img src="http://i46.tinypic.com/257psw3.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> Another her age:<br /> <img src="http://i47.tinypic.com/2cdbm8y.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> Next to one her age:<br /> <img src="http://i49.tinypic.com/1zlqd6s.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> Also, I'm new here. And very excited to be a part of this forum! :D Thanks for any looks and replies.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 25 2012 08:04:14 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Skye Ingram]]></author>
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				<title>mbt shoes</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<br /> Cheap <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.shoesmbtsale-uk.com/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">mbt</a> trainers will not be your usual style of shoes. They’re a fully new shoe Concept the first ever physiological shoes. Be certain that your <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.shoesmbtsale-uk.com/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">mbt uk</a> are tight on the heel, snug on the in-step and that they may be comfortable round the toes. Furthermore, the <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.shoesmbtsale-uk.com/mbt-sandals.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">mbt sandals</a> muscles, relieves the strain on joints, improves posture and gait as well as burns calories at each and every step and also while standing. The discount MBT Trainers have been advantageous to a lot of people and are really beginning to turn into renowned throughout the world. But to truly get every one of the rewards out on the <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.shoesmbtsale-uk.com/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">mbt shoes sale</a>, one will need to know tips on how to adequately stroll in them. Within this post, I’ll provide you a short summary on how you can stroll in the <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.shoesmbtsale-uk.com/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">mbt shoes uk</a> so that you receive the most out of the new shoes. When purchasing your <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.shoesmbtsale-uk.com/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">mbt shoes </a>, make certain that you simply obtain a pair that have the right match. It is significant that the heel is placed in the back with the foot bed before fitting the straps of the <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.shoesmbtsale-uk.com/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">mbt sale</a>.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Apr 23 2012 03:02:59 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[kiddy smith]]></author>
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				<title>I have a worm question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[So I have a small worm question.  Here's the situation:  I have two patios at my place (I also garden at a few other locations ;), on one of these there was three inches of leaf drop from a nearby tree.  As I've been picking this up slowly, I have seen alot of worms.  There is literally nothing but leaves and concrete here. Mi was wondering if these worms were part of the composting process and if so, is there a reason I can't use the locals instead of buying worms for a bin?  If not that's cool, just trying to use the resources on hand.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 19 2012 10:25:52 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Shawn Harper]]></author>
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				<title>Questions for beekeepers</title>
				<description><![CDATA[To all of you who keep bees... I am really wondering about a few things -- have been for years, but the video up there (on colony collapse) got me to thinking about it again. <br /> <br /> When you bring in hives of honey bees to an area with native pollinators like carpenter and bumble bees, do you see a dramatic change in numbers of native species? Have you experienced any problem interactions between the native species and the non-native honey bees?<br /> <br /> Where I live, (SW Missouri) we are blessed with LOTS of native pollinators and we even see ocassional swarms of wild honey bees. None seem to be adversely affected by being together and exploiting the same resources. Now, we do have a lot of flowers here. The woods and glades are extremely diverse and since we are longtime organic homesteaders and live fairly remotely from anyone who farms with chemicals on a large scale (the closest neighbors usually keep kitchen gardens, but nothing large) and we have thousands of acres of national forest on our east border, I am sure that abundance is a contributing factor to the overall health of both natives and non-natives. <br /> <br /> I am mentioning all this because I have wanted to start a bee colony for personal use -- honey and wax on a very small scale -- but have always decided against it in favor of not putting stress on the native bees. What do you think? Would it significantly affect the native populations or not -- in your opinion?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 18 2012 10:31:10 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Deb Stephens]]></author>
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				<title>Hot wires are not just for dogs anymore</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Check out my middle of the night adventure snakes and electric fences.  <a class="snap_shots" href="http://localsustainablefoodgarden.blogspot.com/" target="_new" >Dreaming of Snakes</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 18 2012 06:32:56 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jeanine Gurley]]></author>
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				<title>Feeding whole fish to chickens/ducks?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Has anyone tried this?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 17 2012 20:31:48 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Austin Max]]></author>
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				<title>Green eggs, brown egg, beige eggs, goose egg</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Finally!  I have a basket of multi-coloured eggs. <br /> <br /> <img src="http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/306640_416450178367631_100000079578758_1676521_2047228202_n.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> I'm trying to establish a strain of 'rainbow eggers' by introducing Marans and Cream Legbar genes into one of the local Portuguese landraces, the Pedrez, which is barred.  I'm aiming at a dual-purpose breed which lays a mixture of different egg colours and goes broody occasionally.  And I think I'm finally starting to make a big of headway!   :) <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 17 2012 14:43:08 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Burra Maluca]]></author>
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				<title>Making Chickens Work for YOU.</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi all, I'm new to this forum, but what I see so far, I really like! My introductory post will be this one.<br /> <br /> I wanted to share my method of keeping chickens, free of the burden that comes with moving tractor coops and all. I am lucky enough to have a decent sized garden, measuring 40ft by 25ft. Along the shadiest side, I installed a chicken run, burying the fence 18 inches all along the perimeter to keep the coyotes and foxes out, (so far, so good,). They have a coop that they may enter or leave at will, sort of an open door policy, if you will. The waterer and food bucket are at one end, and all along the furthest end, plenty of naturally occurring, (read as: weeds and grass,) flora grow. The run is 40ft long by 5ft wide, plenty of room for the eight Black Star hens I have. Since I don't keep a rooster, (the hybrids I have wouldn't breed true anyway,) and the season's young birds end up as supper anyway, I don't have to worry too much about broiler pens, etc. They use the nesting boxes and give plenty of fresh eggs, and all of them get eaten before they reach a year old. <br /> <br /> I buy my chickens from a local farm that raises them for egg production, where they run around inside a barn for their laying lives. Now... it's not what I'd call optimum for the life of a bird, but it's better than some giant agricorp egg factory, it's locally owned and operated, and the birds are fed well. I've seen no signs of unhealthy birds there, ever. They're $14 each for hens that have just begun laying. Pricier than buying chicks, but without the fuss of acclimating chicks to ambient temps and having to wait for eggs. I just about break even, cost-wise... but it serves my purposes well.<br /> <br /> The birds eat, lay, are allowed to roam the garden two at a time, (supervised while I weed, of course, they poop a lot and get eaten eventually. In the fall, when the last one is ready for the fryer or roaster, I flip the top of the run back and shovel the topsoil to the growing side. That soil has been given not only poop, but weeds from the garden and all rubbish aside from avocados, onions and garlic waste. The avocados are poisonous to birds, and the onions and garlic ruin eggs taste. I then till the poop/compost soil in and let it sit until spring, when it is tilled over again, the top of the run set back up and a new flock for the summer is once again brought in. Rinse, lather, repeat. I even plant pole beans and cucumbers along the garden side of the run, and even though I lose some of the low-hanging stuff to the birds, bugs get snatch up through the wire and my bocks get some extra shade that they LOVE. It's a pretty good system.<br /> <br /> I have family members rotate out their own egg cartons, one empty and one full so that we always have fresh eggs. We routinely take a chicken and fry it up or roast it on a Sunday, fresh and great tasting! I've stopped buying chicken from the store during months where I don't have any, (unless I REALLY get a hankering and then I buy organic and locally grown chicken,) and could never go back to eating factory-raised chickens. <br /> <br /> Here is a pic from this season, after Spring tilling and the new hens go in. I don't have any from the years previous, (been doing this for four now,) but you can see the set-up. I can post more pics as the garden gets rolling if you guys like. <br /> <br /> <img src="http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu83/scott64a/7-09-2011003.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <br /> I'm proud to say I've created a very viable egg-chicken-veggie producing area of my property, and wish more people did the same. My daughter, age 8.) is also quite involved with he whole process, from yearly inspection and reinforcing of the run to planting/weeding/harvesting. She loves eggs and chickens, and "growing salad" as she says.<br /> <br /> When it's time to cull a bird from the flock, we select the biggest one and use a cone to bleed it out. That's a method I only heard of recently, and am glad I did. I used to just give them a chop and fling them, like I was shown as a boy. The cone method is so much more controlled and meat doesn't get bruised. They bleed out. wiggle a bit and that's that -ready for a bath and plucking!<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 15 2012 23:06:36 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Scott Roy]]></author>
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				<title>&quot;Free range&quot; eggs - Australian definition to change</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<blockquote class="uncited">
			<div>Free range egg producers are warning against a proposal to give chooks less space to roam around in as the Australian egg corporation calls for an increase to the current stock level of 1,500 hens per hectare.</div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> 1500 to 20,000 - that seems like a measured increase. That works out to just over five square feet per bird (a hectare is about 111,000 square feet)<br /> <br /> The lesson here is watch this space - no doubt "organic" will soon be redefined to include any substance Monsanto want to put in there.<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.abc.net.au/news/2012-04-16/free-range-definition-to-rise/3952190" target="_new" rel="nofollow">Link to video</a><br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 15 2012 17:51:22 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Phil Hawkins]]></author>
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				<title>universal feed ??</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I am spending a ton of money on feed for my goats, chickens and even horses. Plus the feed is factory prepared so who knows what chemicals were put on it....i would like to be totally organic if i can...so what one (or two) foodstuffs might feed my goats, chickens and eventually pigs and cows (and the darn horses too)??<br /> <br /> If i can narrow it to only one or two grains for example i can either find a source not adding chemicals, hire the crop grown, or grow it myself...<br /> <br /> there is so much written on the right feed for every animal....i just know $10 plus per bag is going to run my costs way too high...<br /> <br /> seems like maybe oats would be good choice for all? corn too rich and not naturally in diet of most cows or goats, is it? <br /> <br /> your help appreciated, the simpler the better...thanks, kathryn ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Apr 14 2012 21:13:06 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[kathryn mims]]></author>
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				<title>Win a free Pork Cut T-shirt</title>
				<description><![CDATA[As part of our Kickstarting the Butcher Shop at Sugar Mountain Farm we're giving away free T-shirts, a coffee mug and some other things. Check out this blog post:<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://SugarMtnFarm.com/three-great-kicking-contests/" target="_blank" >http://SugarMtnFarm.com/three-great-kicking-contests/</a><br /> <br /> There's three contests on Kickstarter (that's national and even international) and then seven more at stores and restaurants in Vermont who carry our meat.<br /> <br /> A little fun and a great shirt!<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> <br /> -Walter<br /> Sugar Mountain Farm<br /> <br /> Link to Kickstarting the Butcher Shop:<br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sugarmtnfarm/building-a-butcher-shop-on-sugarmountainfarm" target="_blank" >http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sugarmtnfarm/building-a-butcher-shop-on-sugarmountainfarm</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 12 2012 13:30:41 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Walter Jeffries]]></author>
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				<title>Bee Colony Collapse Disorder explained</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<a class="snap_shots" href="http://news.mongabay.com/2012/0405-hance_colonycollapse_pesticides.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://news.mongabay.com/2012/0405-hance_colonycollapse_pesticides.html</a><br /> <br /> <b>Three seperate studies all concluded a certain type of pesticide (neonicotinoids) induce CCD. </b><br /> <br /> <blockquote>
			<div>
				<cite>Feeding small amount of pesticide killed slowly but thoroughly wrote:</cite>  Past research has shown that neonicotinoid pesticides, which target insects' central nervous system, do not instantly kill bees. However, to test the effect of even small amounts of these pesticides on western honeybees (Apis mellifera), Harvard researchers treated 16 hives with different levels of imidacloprid, leaving four hives untreated. After 12 weeks, the bees in all twenty hives (treated and untreated) were alive, though those treated with the highest does of imidacloprid appeared weaker. But by 23 weeks everything had changed: 15 out of the 16 hives (94 percent) treated with imidacloprid underwent classic Colony Collapse Disorder: hives were largely empty with only a few young bees surviving. The adults had simply vanished. The hives that received the highest doses of imidacloprid collapsed first. Meanwhile the four untreated hives were healthy.<br /> <br /> "There is no question that neonicotinoids put a huge stress on the survival of honey bees in the environment," lead author Chensheng (Alex) Lu, an associate professor at the HSPH, told mongabay.com. "The evidence is clear that imidacloprid is likely the culprit for Colony Collapse Disorder via a very unique mechanism that has not been reported until our study," <br /> <br /> That mechanism? High-fructose corn syrup. <b>Many bee-keepers have turned to high-fructose corn syrup to feed their bees, which the researchers say did not imperil bees until U.S. corn began to be sprayed with imidacloprid in 2004-2005. A year later was the first outbreak of Colony Collapse Disorder.</b> </div>
		</blockquote> <br /> <br /> <br /> <blockquote>
			<div>
				<cite>Bumblebees exposed to pesticide foraged less and made less queens wrote:</cite>   A U.K. team exposed buff-tailed bumblebees (Bombus terrestris) to small doses of imidacloprid, and placed the bees in an enclosed natural setting where they could forage free. After six weeks (a far shorter time than Lu's study), the team weighed the nests and compared them with control colonies that had not been exposed. Treated colonies were on average 8-12 percent smaller than the colonies that had not been exposed, which implies that exposed bees were not gathering as much food. However, even more alarming was the case of the missing queens. Pesticide-exposed colonies produced 85 percent fewer queens: a total of only around 1-2 queens per hive. Queens are the most important bees in a colony, since they found new colonies after winter when all the other bees perish. </div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> <br /> <blockquote>
			<div>
				<cite>Pesticide-exposed foraging bees don't go home wrote:</cite> A second study, this one conducted in France, shows directly how neonicotinoid pesticides may be impacting bees, eventually leading to the collapse of the colony. Researchers glued tiny microchips to free-ranging western honeybees in order to track their movements. They then administered small does of a different neonicotinoid pesticide, called thiamethoxam, to a portion of the bees. Exposed bees were two to three times more likely to not return from foraging excursions than unexposed bees.  </div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> <br /> Why has it taken so freakin' long to connect all these dots? <br /> <br /> <blockquote class="uncited">
			<div>  It has taken a long time to understand the link between Colony Collapse Disorder and neonicotinoid pesticides, because scientists were looking for an instant-killer, and not something that caused slow deaths over several months, says Lu. In addition he adds that scientists ignored "the fact that the timeline of increasing use of neonicotinoids coincides with the decline of bee populations." <br /> <br /> Lu says policy makers "need to examine the effect of sub-lethal doses of pesticides throughout the life cycle of the test model (in this case honey bees)." He further notes the depending on LD50 findings (i.e. a lethal dose that results in the death of half of the specimens tested) "is not relevant to the modern day chemical toxicity testing." In other words, <b>regulators need to start testing the long-term impacts of chemicals in the environment</b>, and not simply focused on whether or not they instantly kill test subjects.  </div>
		</blockquote>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 12 2012 11:27:50 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[P Thickens]]></author>
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				<title>Holistic approach to beekeeping</title>
				<description><![CDATA[How to keep bees without chemicals and antibiotics. I have done this for over 30 years now and I think it is time to share some of my knowledge. <br /> <br /> For those that like to work their apiary in a sustainable, holistic way here is what I did with my bees yesterday, April 10/11. The 5 minute movie <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lY6JhtfPF4w" target="_blank" >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lY6JhtfPF4w</a> will show how to manage the varroa first thing in the spring. As I work with nature I use "natural pointers" to manage bees. These pointers are very critical in order to be in harmony with nature and at the same time help the beekeeper to structure her/his management. The first "natural pointer" is the pussy willow showing us that fresh pollen is available and this triggers the queen to lay a lot more eggs (hazelnuts will be at about the same time). The next "natural pointer" is when the temperature (in the shade) reaches 15 degree C, sunny and no wind. The attached movie will show the management at that time. Hope some of you can adapt this kind of management. I will keep you posted on the next management, the natural pointer being the "dandelions flowering" but you can already read up on this at: <a class="snap_shots" href="http://goolymooly.ca/data/publishing/werner_insidebook_bees.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://goolymooly.ca/data/publishing/werner_insidebook_bees.html</a> . Use the tab Holistic Hive Management and then select the tab that interests you. These are all pdf files. Feel free to print them out to carry to your apiary. I would appreciate if you would refer to this method as SMC (sustainable mite control) by Werner Gysi. I am on a mission to save the bees and will travel across Canada this summer, starting June 8. in Calgary till August 12., reaching as far as Ottawa, ON. I have over 50 events confirmed, some to beekeeping associations. If you like to invite me please contact me.<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 12 2012 00:30:48 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Werner Gysi]]></author>
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				<title>Mow a new paddock?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[We're getting our first chickens in a couple of days.  We're starting with half a dozen.  We have a portable coop that I'll move into different paddocks, a la Paul.  <br /> <br /> There's grass up to 2 feet tall in the paddocks.  Does this need to be or should it be mowed?  I'll be feeding the chickens bought feed and supplement as I can with grain and other food I grow, but of course that will take a while.  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 11 2012 08:42:22 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<title>Cannibal Chicken!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Here's the history:<br /> <br /> I've got 24 1week old chicks:  5 RIR, 11 Barred Rock, a mystery chicken and ( I assume) 7 Cornish Rock crosses.<br /> <br /> I paid for the reds, barred and the mystery bird.  The Crosses were packed in the box with the others at the store so they just gave them to me.  I guess they ship them for extra warmth in the box.  I suspect that they are also roosters.<br /> All was well up til today when suddenly one of the Crosses decided to Cannibalize a couple of the Barred rocks.  I was only out for an hour or so but the cannibal managed to draw blood on the vents of both birds as well as do some damage to one's wing. <br /> I separated the injured birds first and watched to see what happened.  The offending Cross began picking at another Barred Rock.  I noticed that some of the others were getting interested in what was going on so I quickly culled the cannibal from the flock.  I feel bad about it but it had to be done.  I don't have the resources to house all these birds separately so now that one is in the compost bin.  <br /> <br /> They have plenty of food, water, the temp is ideal and they have a couple clods of sod to pick at. They are in an area about 20 Square feet until the weather improves.<br /> <br /> So...<br /> <br /> The injured birds are resting in a safe place with food and water.  Despite the damaged vents, they are both pooping and the bleeding has stopped.  Is there any hope of them recovering and being able to return to the flock?  My intention was to raise most of these birds for meat, so egg laying is not a concern in this case.  <br /> <br /> I was thinking about placing a divider between the Crosses and the rest of the birds.  They are a little bigger than the rest and they seem to be lurking around looking for someone to pick on.<br /> <br /> Any help or advice would be very appreciated.<br /> <br /> Thanks folks  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 10 2012 15:40:33 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Craig Dobbelyu]]></author>
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				<title>One more reason why Paul Wheaton is right about pigs...</title>
				<description><![CDATA[When I found this video just kept laughing.<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid960594369?bclid=958498245&bctid=1716406566" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid960594369?bclid=958498245&bctid=1716406566</a><br /> <br /> Yes Pigs are AWESOME!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 10 2012 10:02:17 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nicola Marchi]]></author>
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				<title>Feeding Rodents to Muscovy's</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I've seen them gobble down a small mouse once or twice and give salamanders a good thrashing, but I'm worried about protein as I've had a recent coyote attack that's put me off of letting them out. <br /> But this isn't about fencing woes and how a 5 foot fence, barbed wires and electric fencing is not enough. <br /> <br /> It's about these Dam Squirrels that went into my greenhouse and stole the 80 peanut plants I just planted sunday. <br /> I've wanted to catch rats with the water bucket technique for over a year now but I never had the heart to do it because of the chirpy squirrelie buddies. <br /> I never thought about them digging up bulbs, and munching plants because I never see them do it. I for some reason was oblivious to what they did all day accept raid the duck food, and I really didn't mind. <br /> <br /> I've built a slug motel to fatten slugs on dog poo for the summer when there not abundant, but I'm worried about protein in my ducks diet now that they will be spending much of their time in there oversized enclosure. <br /> I've seen them go crazy for ground beef, but that way my ground beef. We don't have dog food our dogs eat offal sausages. <br /> <br /> So now that I'm not friends with squirrels and our mice have turned into rats, Im just considering the issue of the slow death from drowning issue. But whether lived trapped or something else they have to serve a purpose other than compost fodder.  Is the fur content an issue? I don't want to spend my sundays putting wet rat's through my commercial meat grinder but I'm sure i have an old blender. I could singe the fur off in a tlud biochar session, maybe if they were dried into a blood type meal i wouldn't be so iffy about the grinder. <br /> <br /> I'm posting this cuzz im hoping someone has some knowledge about disease issues with vermin before i do what I'm aiming to do. I don't normally have such un thought out idea's and I'd never normally post them but this isn't really something you can find info about on a google search. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 5 2012 21:03:49 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Saybian Morgan]]></author>
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				<title>rooster and eggs question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Right now I only have 6 hens, but somewhere down the line we might get a rooster. A few questions:<br /> <br /> Since I have 3 different breeds I assume any offspring that comes about will be a mix breed?<br /> If I want some to breed and some for eggs in a small space, how do you manage that scenario?<br /> If a rooster is around hens and they are laying eggs; how do you handle the egg collection and consumption?<br /> <br /> Im assuming that all of the eggs are getting fertilized and I know you can eat them, but do I have to do anything special to them to prevent them from turning into chicks? I really don’t want to put my wife through cracking an egg and finding a baby bird, that would push her over the edge <br /> <br /> Thanks for any advice!<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 5 2012 13:20:55 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Rob Sigg]]></author>
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				<title>pig tractor questions: plowing, breed, fencing, weeding</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I have a field, it hasnt been plowed in 20 year (to my knowledge) - perhaps even longer. It was used as a pasture 20 years ago and its been standing there, it has been mowed only twice. It has got a lot of strong grasses there that happily leech a potato dry in search of water.<br /> <br /> I thought about keeping a few pigs in a small (electric) fence. I would move the fence only after the pigs have left nothing but black soil in that area. I would then plant the area with some trees, bushes and lots of nitrogen fixing plants like clover and peas. I would continue to repeat these steps until the cold harsh winter comes and then just eat the pigs :)<br /> I have never kept pigs, but I have a few chickens and they are still alive.<br /> <br /> My concerns are:<br /> 1. pigs need water. I need a watering solution that can be easily moved with an ATV when I move the fence. it needs to be pig-proof too.<br /> 2. Will the pigs need additional feed or will they survive fine on the roots and grubs they find in the field? Im not interested in fattening them up, but I dont want them to starve to death either.<br /> 3. Is 1 pig enough or do they need to be in packs like sheep and cows?<br /> 4. Whats the minimum area of the fence?<br /> 5. There are no old breeds around here, so I can probably get a bald pink factory breed. Will they need protection from the sun?<br /> 6. Will they need protection from wind? Its very windy on that field<br /> 7. Im not going to be at location every day, so I cant keep an eye on them. How likely are they to just go through an electric fence and run away?<br /> 8. Does the sex matter if im going to eat them anyway?<br /> 9. My theory is that since these pigs get such a great workout and are on such a green diet, they wont develop much fat tissue. Is this assumption correct?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 4 2012 13:24:06 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Allan Laal]]></author>
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				<title>Quacking Chickens?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[My chicks are 2 weeks old and doing great so far as I can tell.  Well... one of them is "quacking"  sort of.  Aside from the noises she seems fine. She forages, runs around, eats, drinks... and apparently "quacks".  She makes the noise along with a head twitch similar to a Tourret's syndrome  type thing. Kind of a cross between a quack a bark and a sneeze.  The bird has no discharge of any sort and shows no other signs of illness.  I've heard that some Easter Eggers make strange noises from other people on other forums.  Does anyone here have any input?  <br /> <br /> <br /> <br />  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 4 2012 05:38:09 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Craig Dobbelyu]]></author>
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				<title>Beekeeping books and training suggestions?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Anyone have recommendations for good books or courses on beekeeping?   Bonus points if the courses are in the PNW.  Thanks! ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 1 2012 16:14:35 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Lissa Lane]]></author>
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				<title>grrr. chickens. </title>
				<description><![CDATA[I am raising free range hard heads. not the chickens..my family..."No chickens until the place is ready for them." Meaning no place for them until I am ready to cope with them. because I will wind up being the one to cope with them. <br /> <br /> I have to laugh, I guess. I got up this morning and caught my oldest daughter filling a shiny new poultry waterer in teh tub..."UMMM...WHAT is that for?"  She trots out...."MOOOM! WE'RE BUSTED!" <br /> <br /> Crap.  now I have to scrounge materials and get a broiler pen built and a tractor/laying house built before the little buggers get big enough to be out. &lt;sigh&gt; <br /> <br /> Oh well, I just sowed in a plot of buckwheat around my first hugel mound, and I think I have enough scrounged chain link top rail to make an entire chicken tractor with a steel frame. that ought to last a few years. <br /> <br /> that and I will have a hundred or so tomato plants this year..might just have a few extras...chickens looove tomatoes. <br /> <br /> no real point to this. I am just grumpy about it. <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Mar 31 2012 12:02:12 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Lloyd George]]></author>
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				<title>Kickstarting the Butcher Shop at Sugar Mountain Farm</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Kickstarting the Butcher Shop at Sugar Mountain Farm<br /> <br /> The crowd source funding web site Kickstarter.com accepted our project proposal for raising money for finishing construction of our on-farm butcher shop and this morning our project launched at:<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sugarmtnfarm/building-a-butcher-shop-on-sugarmountainfarm" target="_blank" >http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sugarmtnfarm/building-a-butcher-shop-on-sugarmountainfarm</a><br /> <br /> If you're not familiar with Kickstarter, check out the bottom of the page above for an explanation of how it works. Basically, in exchange for backers pledging $1 or more they get rewards from the project which can vary from the simple swag to project products. For example in our case there are T-shirts, pig ivory tusks and most of all, meat - our pastured pork, sausage and hot dogs.<br /> <br /> Cheers<br /> <br /> -Walter<br /> Sugar Mountain Farm<br /> Pastured Pigs, Sheep & Kids<br /> in the mountains of Vermont<br /> Read about our on-farm butcher shop project:<br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://SugarMtnFarm.com/butchershop" target="_blank" >http://SugarMtnFarm.com/butchershop</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Mar 30 2012 14:52:35 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Walter Jeffries]]></author>
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				<title>Raising chicks of different ages together?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Does anyone have any input on putting chicks of differing ages together in one area?  I have a group of 10 Easter Eggers that are about a week old today.  I'll be getting about 15 more RIRs in about ten days and would rather house them all together if possible.  <br /> <br /> Any Advice?<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Mar 29 2012 18:49:42 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Craig Dobbelyu]]></author>
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				<title>Edmonton Alberta Canada: Grass vs. 3 Dogs. What to do?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I have three big lovely dogs in my fairly large back yard, who poo & pee on everything.  Since I have no plans on giving them up, what can I do INSTEAD of run-of-the-mill grass which they RUIN every year, and make mud bogs of, to have a back yard full of GREEN GROUND that can withstand peeing, pooping and mowing?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Mar 28 2012 20:05:47 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Sandra More]]></author>
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				<title>Deworming &amp; Fly Control in Cattle (beef &amp; dairy)?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[We have a handful of cattle, about 10 head total, for personal beef and milk consumption. We've been using the Ivomec Pour-On for worm control, which claims to have zero milk/beef withholding time. It's also great (for a week or so) at controlling Horn Flies, which are oppressive during the hot summers down here in Alabama.<br /> <br /> Our small herd is due for another application, and we did buy a new supply yesterday, but I would like to know if there is/are a *proven* natural alternative that can be readily acquired -- i.e. we won't have to *plant* anything and wait for it to mature, etc.<br /> <br /> Also, we want to proactively control Horn Flies and other pests (Deer Flies, etc) which will require something like a hanging bag filled with some form of pesticide or repellent, or a frequent spray-on application, and this might be more important to pursue a natural alternative, since they will be "dosed" far more frequently. Many local farmers (remember, it's the Deep South) spray their livestock with Permethrin / Pyrethrin or even more potent chemicals.<br /> <br /> I'm not sure DE is practical, as the flies will migrate to where there is no powder, and the cows aren't exactly excited to be covered in fine powder -- that and I don't think it would last more than 2-3 days per application.<br /> <br /> I used the forum search tool, but found nothing helpful, and then the tool shut me down for making too many searches(!). ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Mar 28 2012 11:48:31 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Brendan Getchel]]></author>
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				<title>any off-grid brooder ideas?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I'd really like to get a bunch of turkey poults this spring.  Or if they are going to be too fusy, then maybe more chickens for meat birds.  The turkey poults sound pretty fussy for temperature, it's a bit intimidating.<br /> <br />  Springs can be chilly up here but you need the full season to finish a turkey by thanksgiving.  So I need a decent brooder that doesn't suck up a ton of electricity.  <br />  I would love to hear any solutions the off-grid crowd has came up with for this.<br /> <br />  The profit margins are pretty narrow, so it's got to be simple and cheap or it will be too hard on the bottom line.  I was thinking of something well insulated and inside my hoophouse.  Maybe some wood fired contraption with a bunch of rocks piled over for mass?  Let the birds thermoregulate by getting closer or further away.  Or super insulated brooder box and heat from a well vented kerosene lamp?  It will have to be an easily enlarged space as they grow up...<br /> <br />  It could still be dipping down to freezing by then.<br /> <br />  thanks...]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 27 2012 20:59:47 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kari Gunnlaugsson]]></author>
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				<title>All family farm swine to be killed by Michigan State for looking feral</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Play the videos for the details - he explains it better.  This family needs your support now in donations to fight the law!  <br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots"  target="_new" rel="nofollow">www.bakersgreenacres.com</a><br /> <br /> <object width="640" height="480">
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 27 2012 12:50:28 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Amedean Messan]]></author>
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				<title>If you raise Pigs, is THIS cause for alarm?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Walter, et al.<br /> <br /> Can you envision such a thing coming to VT and elsewhere? I know feral pigs ARE a legitimate problem, but is this just another excuse for government incursion and restriction against small farmers?<br /> <br /> DISCLAIMER:  I'm not alarmist by nature. I know we landed on the moon and passenger jets collided with big buildings in NYC.  :D<br /> <br /> Wholesale Pig Extermination based on hair color:<br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.naturalnews.com/035372_Michigan_pigs_farm_freedom.html" target="_blank" >http://www.naturalnews.com/035372_Michigan_pigs_farm_freedom.html</a><br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 27 2012 12:39:53 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Brendan Getchel]]></author>
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				<title>Predators and water barriers</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Permaculture books (Mollison, etc) tend to have drawings of happy ducks hanging out on an island in a small pond. On the shore side they also show a protected coop which is open to the water but fenced from land.<br /> <br /> My question is really on the former - whether a water barrier is effective (or is the happy duck on an island a myth?), and if it does work what distance from shore is required?<br /> <br /> I can see how an island is effective against some predators, but for example raccoons can swim? And what about snakes? rats? etc?<br /> <br /> Thanks for any thoughts or practical experience<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 27 2012 11:38:16 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Robin Hones]]></author>
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				<title>Chicks: Raising good foragers</title>
				<description><![CDATA[We just received our flock of 10 Easter Eggers yesterday.  They spent the day yesterday getting adjusted to the new digs chirping and slugging down food and water in a hurry.  Today they've spent a lot of time just laying around and resting from the ordeal in the mail. I'll be using a paddock type system later on and will rely on them to do a lot of foraging.  How can I assist them in learning good foraging skills at a young age? At what age can I introduce "wild" foods into their diet?  They do a lot of scratching already and seem to be very curious about anything that moves.<br /> <br /> Any help would be appreciated.<br /> thanks<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 27 2012 10:30:59 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Craig Dobbelyu]]></author>
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				<title>Help! My New Ducklings Aren't Pooping!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I bought Pekin ducklings at the cattle auction barn on saturday, and I haven't seen evidence of poo yesterday. or this morning. I did see poop on sunday but maybe they were just crapping out the food that they ate on saturday at the sale barn.<br /> <br /> I'm feeding them duck starter, and they are eating it. I can even get them to eat out of my hand. They are also going to the water dish a lot.<br /> <br /> I checked their butts and don't see any blockage.<br /> <br /> I don't think they're cold stressed because they aren't shivering, they aren't quacking excessively. The temperature is usually around 70 degrees Ferenheit, with a range of 65-80. The humidity ranges from 40-65%. I have them indoors with a stand-fan moving the air around lightly, and an indoor/outdoor air exchange fan which I only turn on during the day when it's sunny. Should I have the exchanger fan on all the time? I had it off when it's cold to save on heating costs.<br /> <br /> I've got them enclosed in a makeshift pen, with straw as their bedding. They seem to be running around and playing. I check on them 3-4 times a day.<br /> <br /> For the last two days I've been playing them a classical music radio station on low volume, but only during most (not all) of the daylight hours.<br /> <br /> Yesterday I started adding chopped up grass, thistle and dandelion leaves, a few slugs, pillbugs, these tiny dark black thin insects, and these reddish-brown centipede lookin things that crawl real fast (I don't know their name). They came running with enthusiasm and started nibbling on everything voraciously. I'm going to hold off on all of the stuff I just described because maybe I shocked their stomachs.<br /> <br /> Any help would be appreciated.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Mar 27 2012 08:13:25 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Travis Philp]]></author>
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				<title>Alone in Alabama? An Introduction.</title>
				<description><![CDATA[SOME BACKGROUND -- As City as City-Folk can be:<br /> <br /> I was born in Boston and have lived all of my adult life in Connecticut, commuting on-and-off to downtown NYC to work for the last ~20 years. Exactly five years ago, when I was 39, my wife and I decided to "retire," purchasing a small farm in NE Alabama (Boaz). For the first 2-3 years we did nothing but enjoy Southern Country living. 2-3 years ago my wife was given one heifer (Red Angus) and we purchased 12 hens of various breeds and one Buff Orpington rooster.<br /> <br /> Fast-forward 2+ years later and we now have 10 cows - a couple of Angus, two Jersey and one Guernsey which my wife hand-milks daily, a Holstein bull calf coming of age, and my 4-legged daughter: a gorgeous Charolais named Charlie (pronounced "Shar-Lee"). Charlie looks like she might be a Freemason -- yes, I got it wrong on-purpose ;D -- but she writes poetry, plays the piano, paints like Picasso, and adores me (the first 3 might be slight exaggerations), so she gets a pass on having to be useful in some "farmy" way. I wanted to make her an indoor cow, but my wife vetoed my plan to dedicate a spare bedroom for her. <br /> <br /> Our 12 hens, though we tried to instill a sense of morality in them, have been given over to unbridled lust, and have grown to over 100 illegitimate little fornicators that know no modesty. They may be unrepentant sluts, but they also produce 30+ eggs per day, and now that Spring has arrived that number seems to be increasing rapidly. We also slaughter 5-10 roosters per month without remorse. Once they form gang-rape squads they are marked for death, and the hens love to watch as justice is served. We hold a fair trial, but as judge, jury, and (sometimes) executioner, any Rooster-dreams of reprieve quickly fade and the hens cluck for joy as the bloodbath commences.<br /> <br /> We have a few turkeys, but their insistence on playing “chicken” with the occasional horseless carriage that comes down our country road rarely ends in their favor, and their numbers continue to drop as a result. We have two Toms and one hen remaining, but a number of turkey eggs are being set-on by various chickens, so we hope to replenish their numbers soon (fingers crossed).<br /> <br /> My wife just picked up four piglets a few weeks ago. She'll have to tell you what they are, but I do know they apparently represent two countries -- Poland and China. There's a "rock" in there somewhere too, but I could be making this all up, which is a character flaw I expose frequently and without shame. We hope to breed them and, with some divine intervention, perhaps even sell some of their offspring for actual US dollars in return, which is the financial equivalent of holding an umbrella in a Tsunami. <br /> <br /> We've wisely chosen the path of "learning from experience." By "wisely" I mean employing as much stupidity as nature will allow one person to exercise, and by "experience" I mean making every mistake humanly possible, paying the most for the least amount of return, and maximizing potential damage in the process. We have proudly cut our financial jugular and have hemorrhaged tens of thousands of dollars to sustain animals worth a fraction of that amount.<br /> <br /> Now that we know there is a different (i.e. "right") way to do things, thanks to Permies (and just about every other carbon-based life form converting oxygen into CO2) we're hoping to actually invert our current trend and turn this into a sustainable lifestyle, even if it is only a "break-even" proposition on the balance sheet.<br /> <br /> Right now, a healthy, sustainable pasture is of critical importance. Ultimately, we would like to get ALL of our animals off commercial feed, which costs us dearly. Chicken Scratch is $14/bag, plus Layer Pellets at $10/bag, plus Dairy Feed at $12/bag, plus Calf Starter at $12/bag, plus cattle feed at $300/ton, plus hay at $30/roll, plus pasture maintenance at $5,000/year, plus (now) Swine Feed at $11/bag. <br /> <br /> We go through many bags of each per week and, believe it or not, our pasture **is** capable of sustaining our livestock!<br /> <br /> If we could eliminate or substantially reduce our reliance upon commercial feed and pasture treatments / fertilizers, and migrate many of the alternatives here on Permies into our overall lifestyle, which is now a fundamental goal of ours, we may actually be able to sustain ourselves indefinitely.<br /> <br /> That's us in a nutshell. If you're in/around/near North Alabama, give us a shout. We'd LOVE to hob-knob with some local(ish) Permites.<br /> <br /> Yours truly,<br /> <br /> Brendan (The Idiot Farmer).<br /> ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13718/122866</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Mar 26 2012 19:31:00 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Brendan Getchel]]></author>
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				<title>Alfalfa Leafcutter Bees</title>
				<description><![CDATA[These bees are one of the only species that does a good job pollinating alfalfa, and is vital to alfalfa seed production.  If you plan on saving seeds, it looks like these little guys are the way to go.  But I've been doing lots of reading about raising these bees, and it's very energy and labor intensive using current methods.  They keep the bee pupae in controlled temperatures all through the winter and spring.  Are there any good Permaculture-friendly ways to raise these bees, and allow them to overwinter out in the wild successfully?  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Mar 25 2012 23:04:31 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Patrick Winters]]></author>
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